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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions



  • chuckgchuckg Posts: 69
    If the vehicle bucks and stalls and then starts right up, check/replace your crankshaft position sensor. It's located on the top/side of your bell housing. Also check your camshaft position sensor.

    I would guess it's one of those two. Start with the crankshaft. It's not uncommon for them to go bad on Chrysler's.
  • chubb2ichubb2i Posts: 3
    Throttle body is clean. I have kept up with that maintenance.

    I replaced the cam position sensor yesterday, and will see what happens there. I have not (yet?) replaced crank position sensor. In reading the service book, the cam position sensor seemed to control spark more so than crank sensor.

    I had a previous problem (unrelated to this one) where it was hard to start, but once running, did fine. I found a trouble code that the temperature sensor was bad, and replaced that, and the hard start problem was gone. I suspect maybe similar situation here, where a seemingly unrelated component is going bad, and causes the computer to give a weak or no signal to the coil bank and cause stuttering. But I am guessing.
    Thanks for input.

    Any way to contact shelleybabee from older post, and find her(?) resolution?
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    shelleybabee has their email marked private and has not been in the Forums for quite some time (years).
  • chuckgchuckg Posts: 69
    chubb- Let us know how you make out.
  • I have replaced the same resistor pack on my 2001 Caravan twice. It went out this morning again! I took an old (bad) one and looked at the thermal fuse (metal bodied part looks like a capacitor) to get the rating. For the record, The OEM part ID for the thermal fuse is MICROTEMP KKJAFW G4A15 TP 128c. I researched Microtemp on the web and noticed that the part is no longer listed on Microtemp's website (if you can call it that). The G4 series is apparently discontinued or just not listed. It is supposed to be rated 10 amps, but I think it's more like 4 amps. If 4 amps is indeed the rating, then it is borderline for a 12v DC motor. The inductive load at turn on is probably what is blowing the thermal fuse. DO NOT DESPAIR! I found a replacement thermal fuse at Radio Shack (of all places). The R/S Part Number is 270-1322 and cost is $1.49 US. It has the same 128 Degree Centigrade rating as the original. The Microtemp Part Number(s) is MNMABM G4A00 TF 128c (R/S Specification says it's 10 amps). I was able to remove the steel shield from the assembly to get to the thermal fuse (use a permanent marker to reference the shield, plastic body, and PC board so re-assembly won't be confusing). Snip the original leads just past the bends away from the fuse body. Place the new fuse (with leads bent to fit in place). Then solder in place. BE SURE TO USE A HEAT SINK BETWEEN THE SOLDER POINT AND THE FUSE BODY! I used 2 alligator clips from R/S PN 270-0346 pack of 10 $ 2.79 US, to heat sink and hold in position while I soldered one side, then the other. Before I re-assembled, I used an ohm meter to verify fuse continuity. After I assembled the resistor pack, I re-installed on the Caravan, and viola it works! I now have several spare assemblies (that I have repaired), and can replace if it happens again. If you aren't very good at soldering, you might be able to find someone that can do this for you (for a few beers Ha Ha). Keep the old assemblies so that you can repair them for future replacements. Total cost for repair was $ 7.26 US. That was for 3 thermal fuses and the bag of 10 alligator clips. Much better than $ 13 US for replacement assembly! Good luck, and I hope you get you fan problem sorted out!! Caravandal.... Suwanee Georgia USA.
  • jeffw1jeffw1 Posts: 1
    4/25/2005 My Grand Caravan just started ringing for low fuel on a full tank last week. I have checked fuses but no problems there. Making appointment soon.
  • vanman10vanman10 Posts: 3
    Since the end of winter and the start of spring my 2000 Caravan has been running rough. This happens in the mornings and once the engine warms up it runs smooth. I've changed the fuel filter, air filter, oil change, timing belt (replaced last summer), tune -up (done last summer). I've also added good quality injector cleaner to a full tank of gas. And still it runs rough and sometimes a little back fire occurs. None of my check engine lights come on. Has anyone experienced this problem.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    Have you cleaned the throttle body? :confuse:
  • vanman10vanman10 Posts: 3
    Hi hayneldan.

    What and where is the throttle body.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    If you have a 6 cyl van the throttle body is at the other end of the air cleaner hose atop the engine. unscrew the clamp holding the large black hose nearest the top of the engine. Remove the hose, and you will see a silver throttle body. With the van not running, move the linkage from the gas pedal, or have someone in the van step on the gas pedal. You should see a round valve larger than a silver dollar that opens and closes as the gas pedal is depressed. If it looks dirty around this throttle body or the ports (holes) just behind the valve look clogged or dirty, it needs to be cleaned. Buy some throttle body cleaner (not carb cleaner) that will not damage emission controls. Read the instructions carefully and follow the directions on the throttle body cleaner. This cleaning will make the van run smoother at idle and stop stalling if it is dirty. Good Luck. :)
  • vanman10vanman10 Posts: 3
    Every morning when I start my 2000 Dodge Caravan (3.L V6) I have a ticking noise coming from the engine. Once the engine warms up the noise goes away. This only happens in the mornings. Is it possible to adjust the lifters on these 3.L V6 engines. I currently have 144,000 km's on this van. I maintain my vehicle very well. What would cause this problem?
  • It's the AM/FM/single CD unit. One day my wife (it's her car) told me the radio wouldn't shut off. I checked it -- with the ignition on the radio was on and unresponsive to *any* buttons or knobs, couldn't change station, volume, etc. I pulled the radio fuse & replaced it, no effect. So I disconnected the battery for 10 minutes, when I reconnected it the radio was dead, wouldn't turn on, no clock display, buttons didn't light up with headlights on. All other electrical stuff works great.

    A while later I replaced the battery. When I cranked it for the first time with the new battery, the radio lights came on for half a second, but then it blanked.

    Any ideas on how I could fix this myself, or should I just buy a new radio?
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    I replaced the Infinity unit in our 1996 Caravan recently, after finding out the dealer price for a replacement rebuilt unit was $200 and this was for one without CD player, just a cassette. CD unit would have been $300.

    I went with aftermarket unit a low end Pioneer radio/single CD, bought from and installed by the local big box electronics store. Total cost: about $109 for the radio and $100 for installation and parts.

    It works great, the only downside is the buttons and controls are small and not very user friendly, and the display is not bright enough under some daylight conditions, but that is the case with most aftermarket units.

    You could however have some other problem associated with power to the unit, but most likely it is in the radio itself.
  • radamsradams Posts: 2
    I had this exact problem and Goodyear recommended a new TCM. They replace it and the engine now runs great.
  • my 94 voyager will be running fine,,, 50-60mph down the road,, all of a sudden, it will just die, you then have to wait 5- 10 min before it will start,, if you try before that, it will crank over but acts like it is out of gas, or has no spark.. after a little wait, it will start right up run just fine,, it seems if i have the defroster on, i won't have to wait as long for it to start,,,, any help would be greatly appreciated.. thank you
  • radamsradams Posts: 2
    Is it just the speedometer or everything else? My entire dashboard is dead. The only life it has is the check-engine light (go figure) and the ABS light. My Goodyear mechanic seems to think it is the Body Control Module. We tried one, but it worked even worse than my current one! Any other ideas?
  • Just over a month ago I purchased a used 2001 GC with 54,000 miles on it. I gave it a thorough going over before I bought it and everything seemed to work wonderfully. Then about 3 weeks later I had an alarming thing happen. When I came to a stop at a stoplight, it lurched forward in such a way that I thought I had been rear-ended. After that, I continued to drive and about ten minutes later as I turned a right corner, it jumped into neutral and the engine roared. I pulled over to shift it back into drive. This didn't happen again for a piece of time, but I took it back to the dealer. They drove it for two days 35 miles later, and told me they couldn't replicate what happened and that my transmission works great. Sent me on my way. Last night while driving, this same thing happened again, lurched forward at a stop and then shifted to neutral as I turned a right corner. I know if I take it back to the dealer, it probably will not do this again, because it has only done it twice since I purchased it, and they will charge me a diagnostic fee again and send me on my way. Does anyone have this problem, or have any idea what my problem could be? The dealer also said they checked the repair history on the van and it had never been serviced in the past for transmission problems.
    Thanks in advance to anyone who may be able to shed some light on this situation.
  • rlcfixitrlcfixit Posts: 2
    Have had this challenge for over a year. However, now we cannot get through emissions testing.

    Problem is not continuous, comes and goes. Do not notice any roughness in engine or poor performance. Van drives great.

    Some time ago, we replaced: Plugs, Plug Wires, Rotor Button and Rotor Cap. Did not fix problem.

    Just took to shop and they checked compression, rechecked all of the above and possibly a few other simple things. Reset codes and drove. Code came back just prior to completion of readiness tests. However, it takes a while for the code to show-up.

    The only thing consistent about this problem is that it seems to happen towards the end of the readiness tests. The last time code appeared only had Oxg Heater Test to complete. We had planned to reset and take to emissions after readiness tests and before code appears. Have tried several times now and it seems to repeat.

    The shop said that they thought that it is an injector with an intermittent challenge. Took home for the weekend and decided to replace injector in Cyl. #2 myself to speed up process. Problem still there.
  • steve67steve67 Posts: 1
    We have a 2002 Grand Caravan with a 3.3L V6 that we purchased new in December 2001. In June 2003, while driving at about 35 mph (after about an hour on the road) without warning the engine suddenly lost power and died. After getting it to the side of the road, we had to wait about 5 minutes before it would start again. Then it ran fine until the same thing happened (again after about an hour on the road) at about 45 mph later that same weekend. The same problem also occurred in May 2004 and two days ago happened twice more. All of those times we were driving at about 65-70 mph. The van was in the dealership in June 2003 and May 2004 and will be going back there in a couple of days. Both times we previously had it at the dealer they could not replicate the problem (of course) and there were no trouble codes indicated. They had no idea what the problem might be. This has become a severe safety issue. Any ideas, or has anyone experienced something similar?

    Thanks for any ideas or other information.
  • rlcfixitrlcfixit Posts: 2
    Have some additional info on this.

    I had logged the freeze data about a year ago and also a couple times today.

    It appears that the misfire detection occurs at 6 mph. I have four data points two from a year ago and two from today. All four froze the data at 6 mph. I think this is significant. Also, the other data tells me that the vehicle is slowing down, i.e. the in-Hg is about 10 and engine speed is about 700 rpm. I ran a test and sure enough at 6 mph at a constant speed or slowing down, rpm is about 700-800 rpm. If accelerating, engine speed is about 1800 at 6 mph.

    However, the calculated load is about 25%+. So this does not add-up. The load says that the vehicle is accelerating and the other data says that it is slowing down.
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