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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions



  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    Compressed air, if available,should be used to clean out sparkplug area before they are removed. You can actually see the rear three plugs on 2001+ engines. I have read the earlier designs were a bit more difficult. As was said, use never-seize on the new plugs which must initally be threaded by hand. Also di-electric grease in the sparkplug boots. Good Luck!
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    "You can actually see the rear three plugs on 2001+ engines. I have read the earlier designs were a bit more difficult."

    Errr, really? I just went out and checked the difference between our 1998 and our 2003, and yes, the intake plenum is quite different, but I don't see how that translates to easier access to the rear plugs. Well, maybe that is too strong, I cannot see the rear plugs on either, however, on the 2003 it should be easier to reach over the top of the engine and feel for them... maybe. I didn't actually try because both engines were hot.

    Best Regards,
  • voyagerguyvoyagerguy Posts: 1
    the cooling fans ran until the battery went flat (key off, engine off). the second time, I pulled the positive battery cable (key off, engine off) to turn off the fans. the following morning, i replaced the positive battery cable and that was the last time the cooling fans ran. the voyager is very susceptable to overheating in the hot dallas climate when stuck in rush hour traffic, stop and go.
    i have enquired to a few auto part stores and none of them know if i have a relay or not, or where i might find it. they don't know if the temperature sensor for the guage (which works fine) doubles as sensor to turn the fans on and off. does anyone have any direct experience with this particular problem? thanx for your advice/knowledge.

    Frank in Dallas
  • vchengvcheng Posts: 1,286
    Just to clarify, what I meant to say was: loosen the plug a few turns but do not remove. Use compressed air to remove any dirt loosened. Then remove the plug all the way.
  • zinsterzinster Posts: 1
    trying to get voyager to start replaced coil pack but the #1 wire is not sparking also replaced tps
  • zeitgeist1zeitgeist1 Posts: 1
    1994 Voyager
    New battery
    Car hasn't been started in over a month and it was fine the last time.
    Now, when attempting to start, it simply churns away without ignition.
    I checked around the wires to make sure no critters had gotten in and chewed them away or loose, but everything appears to be OK.
    Sptayed quick start into the air cleaner but nothing.
    There's no sign of any missing in the crank. It's as smoioth as can be, only it won't start.
  • treykatreyka Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Plymouth Grand Voyager. I took it in for an oil change, and the mechanic said my air filter was filthy and needed replacement--so I went to Auto Zone and bought one. The guy behind the counter said it would be easy to replace, but when he opened the hood, he couldn't figure out how to do it. He said the air filter was covered and the cover was bolted. :confuse:

    My husband unbolted it, but he still couldn't see how to change it. Can anyone advise me?
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    A likely suspect is the speed or distance sensor.

  • lgalenlgalen Posts: 1
    I'm getting a warning bell that begins when my engine is running at about 1000 rpm. It stops as I get to about 1500 rpm. This began only after my car had warmed up, and I was in stop and go city traffic. At first, I thought it was related to the brakes, but experimentation showed that the ringing began even without my stepping on the brake, just as my car slowed. After 15 minutes of stop and go traffic, I went on the highway, got up to about 60 mph, and then, as I was taking my exit, the bell began to go off at 1500 rpm, and only went off at 2000 rpm. My husband is thinking it might be related to the oil filter, which probably needs changing. I couldn't find anything about this in the manual. The car has about 90K miles on it.
    Any ideas?
  • SylviaSylvia Posts: 1,636
    A reporter is looking to speak with owners of Chrysler, Saab, Toyota or Volkswagen vehicles who did all the scheduled maintenance on their vehicle and still experienced engine sludge within the warranty period within the past year. If this describes your situation, please respond by 6pm Eastern on Monday, May 23, 2005 to
    Thanks for your consideration,
    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications
  • conwaconwa Posts: 1
    How did you fix the ghost wipers?
  • dougd7dougd7 Posts: 71
    There is another black box below what your husband unbolted. That is where the air filter is located. The cover to it is held by a clip if memory serves. The top box is some sort of air mixer prior to the intake to the fuel injection.

    Hope that helps.

  • marssoinmarssoin Posts: 1
    Plymouth Voyager 98, V6, 3.0 L

    Since I bought the Van I have this problem. No one can find the problem. The engine will start, will run idle and acceleration is good. The problem start when the veh reach a constant speed "on highway" The engine will start to stutter for few second. It feel like pushing on the break, then il will do it again and again in different interval. If I pull a trailer or if the Van is full of people it won't do it. What can be the problem ?
  • I have a 2002 Grand Caravan Sport that has about 50,000 miles on it. It runs great, and doesn't act like it has a problem in the world. However, the Malfunction indicator light came on about a week ago. We were do for an oil change at that time, and thought maybe that was why. We changed the oil, and the light went off. It stayed of for about three or four days, and now it is back on again. I have had an engine go out in a car in the middle of the winter when it was just me and my son in the car. I live in the middle of nowhere and have about a 30 mile drive into town. What I am getting at is I am scared to death to drive the van while that light is on. Does anyone have any idea why it is on? Also, is it serious, is it my engine? I don't know much about cars, but I know that when that engine went out in the car, it was making all kinds of sounds. The van isn't making any sounds. Anyway, I am to scared to drive, so I am stuck at home. Any help would be WONDERFUL!!! :cry:
  • dougd7dougd7 Posts: 71
    Best thing to do is to have your 'local' dealer scan the engine computer for fault codes. There is usually a nominal charge for this. Then go from there.
  • rubberduckrubberduck Posts: 5
    Is that the sensor on the trans?. Will there be any codes if the speed sensor has failed? Can the speed sensor be tested with a multimeter to see if it is working?

  • ntbillntbill Posts: 20
    My husband is thinking it might be related to the oil filter, which probably needs changing. The car has about 90K miles on it.

    What? At 90K miles you never changed the oil filter? For sure it can help, change that oil filter and your engine will be happier. It doesn't mean that it will solve your problem, but replace that filter as quick as possible, maybe it is clogged. You should replace the filter at each oil change.
  • fish06fish06 Posts: 4
    Hi, This might seem like a dumb question, yes, I am a newbie... anyhow... I was planning on replacing the OEM cassette player with a store bought stereo of some kind, and I dont want to break anything taking it out and was just wondering what the dimensions of it were(LxWxH), or the dimensions of the opening in the dash that it sits in would also be a great help...

    Thanks in advance, any help is greatly appreciated :blush:
  • Claire@EdmundsClaire@Edmunds Chicago areaPosts: 968
    Welcome, fish06!

    No such thing as a dumb question :-) You might want to post your question in the Aftermarket Sound Systems & OEM Upgrades Forum, where there are a lot of experts who can probably give you the answer you're looking for.




  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    If you leave anywhere near a major city, I would just watch the ads at the local big box electronic places. They run specials about every week on several CD/radio decks that include installation labor. You will still pay some for adapter wiring harnesses and the adaptor mounting plate, but the advantage is you do not have to mess with sorting out the OEM wiring and hooking it up properly.

    You can usually get the whole unit bought and installed for about $200-$250 including a radio/CD player that runs $100-$125. The low end Pioneer unit put into our 1996 Caravan works just fine, though the buttons are smaller than the OEM unit. and the display sometimes is to faint in bright sunlight, but hey it is a 9 year old vehicle, so I don't expect it to be pristine anymore.

    If you feel adventurous and want to do it yourself, Crutchfield has an on line store with lots of information, though their prices can be beat elsewhere.
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