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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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  • royallenroyallen Posts: 221
    Why not try behind one of the rubber stoppers? Best bet, the lower middle one. The adjustment is a "star wheel" like a nut with 20 or so teeth on the outer edge which your screwdriver engages. You might get a Haynes manual to help with DIY repairs. Rear drum brakes would be difficult to work on without pics and diagrams. Roy
  • tcprobtcprob Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 2002 Town and Country LX. Did you ever get the problem resolved? If so how? Thanks
  • fish06fish06 Posts: 4
    Well, I was heading home from the movie theater and it was dark enough for me to need to use the headlights, so of course I turned them on and I thought I had a burnt out headlight so I went out to check them out, and my driver side headlight was dimmer than the passenger side headlight. I then went inside the van and noticed that the left turnsignal indicator on the dashboard was light up (dimmer than normal) and no, my turnsignal was not in use, when I used the turn signal nothing happened except for one "click" and then the indicator burned steady.(When the turnsignal "clicked" the headlight also light up a little brighter) So not wanting to drive I fiddled with the high beam switch hoping it would come to the rescue, and it did, the lights went back to normal, until the next time I needed to use them, the same thing happened. Now if I turn on the parking lights and the hazard lights the front two amber turnsignals blink at opposite times, but the back blink at the same time, when I have the parking lights on and use my left turn signal it blinks alot faster than the right turnsignal.

    Just went to the garage to check this out... when the hazard lights and headlights are on at the same time, the driverside headlight flashes along with the amber marker, and I just noticed that ALL THREE lights are light up(when it falshes), and on the passenger side only the front two bulbs light up, the third burns steady as a marker I guess, but to make this worse, with the hazards on, the turnsignals flash oppositely as I said before. When I pull back on the highbeam trigger (with ignition off, key out) the left turn signal still lights up.When I turn on the AC the
    headlights come on. The lights are not "full power", but both of them are on, they are the only lights on except for the drivers side amber marker/turn signal is also light up, the tail lights are fine(off). In hopes to clarify what I am saying: When I turn on the AC the headlights come on along with the drivers side marker/turn signal, these are the only lights that come on when I turn the AC on.

    Thanks for your time/help,
    Oliver
  • I have what I think is this same problem with my 1990 Plymouth Voyager. I have searched everywhere and can't find any answers yet. So far, when I take it in somewhere, the mechanic can't make it happen. I would love some help with this too.
  • fish06fish06 Posts: 4
    Thanks for your help, it was only a loose ground wire, which was a major relief as I have not had this van very long..... thanks for all of your help.
  • opie4opie4 Posts: 1
    have93 pgv no fire on2 and 5 coil injectors are working coilpack plug has 4 wires and 3 are showing to have fire doesnt seem to take fuel corectlywhen accel pedalas if its flooding any thoughts
  • bonadentobonadento Posts: 2
    Had a problem very very similar to this on my 93 Caravan. Took it in to 2 different Chrysler dealerships as well as various independent mechanics. After it finally happened for one of the Dodge mechanics, he found the coil was breaking down. This was 5 years ago, and I have replaced the coil once again since then when the problem occurred again. Apparently, they don't make ignition coils like they used to!
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    I had this problem with my 2001. The front passenger carpet would get soaked from highway speeds pushing water back into drain tube, thru the firewall onto the carpet. Part # 56000724AB is a hose which curves downward that slips over existing drainpipe. About $7.00. Make sure that the hose is slipped on all the way to firewall to insure bottom notch in pipe is covered. On very hot humid days I still get a drips of condensation from the evaporator housing, but nothing compared to the thouroghly soaked carpet of before.
  • Thanks, I'll give that a try.
  • Just took care of this on my '95 yesterday. :) A diagram from a manual would be helpful if you've never done this. :confuse: The starwheel adjuster is behind the oval rubber stopper located in the center on the bottom. You need a small screwdriver to push the spring loaded pawl bracket off of the starwheel. While doing this, you need a brake adjusting tool (essentially a bent screwdriver) to loosen the starwheel. This will loosen the drums enough to remove. Take apart the wheel bearing and off comes the drum! When reassembling, use the brake adjusting tool to tighten the starwheel (you'll hear it ratcheting against the spring loaded bracket) until there's some drag of the drum against the brake shoes. Good luck.
  • So did the BCM with the wrong mileage fix the issue?

    I have a 94 T&C and the instrument clusted started blinking intermittently. It is getting worse and it appears to be more so when you put a load on the electrical system (ie. open a door (enterior lights come one), turn on the headlights, operate power windows, etc).

    Lon Allen
  • Please give me more information--you are the first one who has responded with a possible answer to this months-old problem with our van! What exactly went wrong with your van, and how much did it cost to fix it? Thanks in advance!
  • I'm not 100% positive on this, but I have a 2004 T&C, and after one month of ownership, 36k on the ticker, started to have similar concerns. Intermittent windows inop, alarm activation, and one time Instrument cluster WOW. Researched the service manual electrical diagrams, and found that the common point for all of the listed components was connector 9 at the Integrated Power Module. The Windows were in cavity 8, The Liftgate cavity 9, and BCM was cavity 6. The Accessory relay, which controls the radio is also at this connector, I beleive. I noticed that the female connector ends were very loose, tightend these 3 days ago, and have not had a recurrence...

    Dave
  • I bought a 97 Dodge GC 3.8 last month and am now experiencing the exact same problem. Wondering if any headway was made in solving the problem. Appreciate any info.
  • mveitmveit Posts: 4
    Pete inquired about the engine.
    It runs great, uses about 1 quart of oil between oil changes.
    It always passes the annual smog check fine.
    We drove it 1,300 miles last weekend on vacation and it was a champ.

    I spoke to a transmission shop and the only advice they said was to
    have the transmission serviced and they might be able to tell if there is
    high wear based upon the fluid/sediment. The transmission seems to
    be working just fine. Went up/down the Owayhee mountains and costal
    mountains perfectly.

    Thanks all. I'm still not decided.
  • mveitmveit Posts: 4
    I have a 96 3.3 DC with 156,000 miles on it and just put a fuel pump in it.
    We had a transaxle replaced at about 100K because the seal went bad,
    it never made clicking noises when we turned (which is a common symptom
    of CV/transaxle problems) or had steering wheel wobble, it just leaked and
    was a bit messy. We just drove our van for 1300 miles up and down mountains
    this last week on vacation, and the transmission seems to be in good shape.
    I'd say that unless you have been pulling heavy things, that you probably are
    good for a few more years, especially since it seems that you are going a bit
    light on the miles per year. We are now starting to notice a bit of a wobble in
    the steering wheel at up to 35 mph, which I think is likely a CV/transaxle. We are thinking about selling it now. Our shocks seem to be pretty well at their life too.
    I am hoping to maybe get one more year out of it.
  • I ran the codes and came back with these:
    24 Throttle position sensor voltage to high or low
    14 Map voltage to high or low
    13 Slow change in map idle signal or no change in map from start to run
    15 no veicle speed signal
    51Oxygen sensor stays below center
    11 No ignition reference signal
    25 Automatic idle speed motor circuit
    34 speed control colenoid circuits
    From the above info, what could be the problem?
    Replies to this message:
  • On my 98 Plymouth Gr. Voyager (3.3 L with 80K miles), check engine light had come on a couple of times in the past and went away. This time it is not going way and transmission is getting stuck in lower gears, so that to get to 50 mph the engine revs to approx. 4.5 K. It happend one day, after abour 5 min, driving normally, I felt a transmission thump while stopped at a red light and transmission stopped going to D3 D4. After the van was parked for 3-4 hours, it started normally and again the same thing happened. The vehicle had started with the check engine light on, on both instances. This thing had happened once over a month ago and it went away on its own and everything was back to normal. Any one has any idea as to what might be going on. Could check engine light on may tell the transmission to stop shifting properly. Any help would be appreciated. I am worried that it may be sign of major and costly repairs.

    Thanks
  • Claire@EdmundsClaire@Edmunds Chicago areaPosts: 968
    pandeyrs, you might also want to check with the folks in the "Check Engine" Light discussion -- they might have some ideas.

    Claire

    HOST

  • gino45gino45 Posts: 52
    The rear wiper and rear windshield washer pump do not seem to work on my 2001 Caravan. I've checked the fuses and they are ok. I believe the problem to be electrical since both the washer pump and wiper do not work. Is there a relay that connects these two items? Anyone have any suggestions?
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