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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Hey gang, just to underscore what has been said fairly often here about just how clean synthetic oil keeps the innards of an engine, I posted a couple of pictures on my Yahoo! photo album. These two pictures (actually one photo that has a small section copied out for easier viewing) are of the valve cover oil filler hole and the rocker arm below of our 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan with the 3.8 liter mill. I don't recall exactly when I converted it over to synthetic oil, but it was most certainly before the 20,000 mile mark and has had nothing but Mobil 1 (in various weights and formulations) since. Also, I have been less than religious about my OCIs, which have ranged from the factory recommendation of 7,500 miles to well over 12,000 miles in a couple of cases.

    Once in my album, click on "Caravan Stuff" and then click on the last photo DGC3.8-104K.jpg for the detail view of the rocker arm assembly. Interestingly enough, it has been about 4,000 miles since I changed the oil and as can clearly be seen in the small pool of oil in the rocker arm, the oil is still almost as clear as the day I poured it in.

    http://photos.yahoo.com/shipo

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • dennisctcdennisctc Posts: 1,168
    WOW!!! amazing pics.....I don't put a lot of miles on my cars since I try to abuse my freebie company car. But I should swicth over!! When I get an oil change, all I have to do is specifically ask for mobile one??

    Also, how effective is your "high speed spoiler" at speeds over 125 mph???
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    "Also, how effective is your "high speed spoiler" at speeds over 125 mph???"

    Hehe, that was just a static wind tunnel test, unfortunately it melted before I was able to get it on the road for a good quality road test. ;-)

    Regarding the Mobil 1, I normally do my own oil changes and as such, I really don't know who has it available as a generally stocked oil, other than a Mobile station that is.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    Some cars have a automatic shut off for the electric fuel pump. It is there in case of an accident so that fuel does not continue to be pumped and possibly creating a fire. On the 96 van this relay is located under the hood in the power distribution box. It is the large rectangular box on the drivers side of the van. The cover comes off and should show the location of the relays. On the 96 van the ASD (automatic shut down) relay is located at the bottom left and the fuel pump relay is located just above it. I hope this helps.
  • Yeah i read that in the book that the asd relay controls the fuel pump in case of accident and i did back into a pole about a month ago close to the begining of my trouble but there is 7 or something relays exactly the same as the fuel pump relay and the asd relay and i have tried all of them by switching them around and still nothing? when the van quit working it was acting up for a few days and when i was driving would get gas then it wouldn't but only on highway so kinda of weird didn't go out like suddenly like a blown fuse or something just immediatly losing power ? i dunno just rationalizing the million thoughts in my head.
    any other ideas or comments?

    thanks,
    matthew
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    Does the cover on the power distribution box show which is the ASD relay? Switching around the relays will only move the defective one to another position. The lower two relays on the left side (on the 96) are associated with the fuel pump.If you know someone with the same year van, you could mark your relays and switch them with a running van, or buy two relays and try them out in the positions marked "fuel pump" and "ASD".
  • yeah I know it only moves the defective one to a different position but it should still move a good one into that asd position or fuel pump position the box does say on it where the asd one is and also where the fuel pump is and I tried every relay in there in the asd spot and every relay in there in the fuel pump spot. the thing is I get power to the fuel sending unit and it is attached and part of the pump. so that's what is losing me it's getting 12v to the sending unit but why not the pump.
  • My van sounded like it was out of gas but in fact it has a half a tank...someone mentioned might be Throttle Position Sensor...I mentione earlier that when i initially tried to start it the gas pedal stuck all the way down and i had to turn it off..but now it wont start (sounds like it out of gas) and I thought I saw smoke coming from the solenoid...what is a Throttle Position Sensor anyway and where might it be located on a 1991 Plymouth Voyager LE 3.3.V6..??
  • Hi everyone,

    I wonder if anyone else has seen this type of phenomenon. I bought a used 02 T&C EX not too long ago. Had to replace the sway bar bushings and fix the rear liftgate lock motor (myself so it cost $80 total for everything).
    I knew this stuff going into the purchase.

    The strange thing I'm seeing is the van's lights (both headlight and interior) will flicker when sitting at idle. Not greatly so but you just notice it when stopped. Really weird. And I noticed that the headlights will temporarily dim when I first hit the brakes while driving (just a split second).

    Seems to me like an electrical system/charging problem. Was wondering if anyone had some insight on this? I'm thinking the alternator may be starting to go (so I might switch it out myself). Any comments or ideas are greatly appreciated
  • The problem is the left driving light is on and the right driving light is off. When I turn the headlamps on the right low beam comes on and the left low beam goes off. When I switch the high beams on the right goes off and the left comes on. I was told it is the front control module with a open circuit on it. Where is it located, behind the lamp, right? How easy is it to check?
  • Wow, I 've been experiencing the same thing on my '01 DGC.I did a google search and found that the alternator might be starting to go(?) Anyone else have any input? Thanks!
  • I had the same problem on each of my two power sliding doors ('01 T&C Lxi) a few years ago. There is a clutch mechanism on the motor that disengages when you operate it manually. The clutch fails, causing you to try and open/close the door with the motor still enagaged. Mine were both replaced under warranty so I have no clue as to the cost to fix it.
  • My '01 T&C Lxi has done this VERY intermittently over the past 3 years. It sometimes goes months without happening.

    I do highly suspect something with my alternator or charging system, because I am about to put my 4TH battery in it today. Both Chrysler & Sears say my charging system checks out OK, but I've never had a battery last more than 18 months (2 MOPAR Golds and now my top-of-the-line Diehard). Some of the battery cells get internal shorts and it won't charge, eventually getting to the point where you can't even jump start it.
  • eric6eric6 Posts: 10
    Hi,

    I took it to the dealer. 600 dollars to repair. New Motor and connection cable, about 300 dollars. The rest is labor.

    I am going to live with it the way it is.

    Thanks for your reply.

    Eric
  • Never did get resolved - Chrysler (Ed Voyles im Marietta)said 2nd battery not under warranty. Got a Diehard with 36 month warranty - it just died this week so Sears had to replace it. Looking thru the forum, you see lots of posts where Chrysler vans chew up batteries in under 18 months. I have no idea why.
  • Ouch! After religiously using the dealer to service my previous Nissan & Mistubishi cars with reasonable & successful results, it amazes me what Chrysler dealers charge for repairs. It will definitely be a deterrent for me ever purchasing one again.
  • Hi all, this is an update to my Van and its problem:
    I took it to a shop after giving up and found out what the problem was so if anybody has the same trouble ever here is what happened to me 4 wires had corroded and broke off the harness which connects to the computer but i didn't see them when i took it to the shop it took them a day to figure out the problem and fix it so if you ever get the same simptoms like in my earlier posts then check your wire harnesses
    spent 250.00 on parts i didn't need and all it was was 4 wires
    which corroded and broke off the harness hopfully this will help sombody in the future.
  • gino45gino45 Posts: 52
    I've got a 01 and have the same flickering problem. I noticed it after experiencing hesitating problems with the van. I had the ignition wires changed which solved the hesitating problem, but immediately noticed that the lights would flicker. Of course most of the mechanics in my area are slightly blind so they could never see the flickering. I've had this issue for over a year. I thought it may be a coil, but as long as the van runs I'll live with problem.
  • when i use remote entry sear and mirrow go all out of wack
  • pjay1pjay1 Posts: 1
    My 1999 has 2 Cig lighters. One in front and one in back. No juice at all in either. Checked fuses and they are all good. What do I do? I want to use my phone charger!
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