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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    When you pull the wheel off you will see the retainer attached to the base of one of the lug studs. It almost looks like a "Lock Washer" only in reverse with the serrated edge on the inner diameter instead of the outer diameter. If the central section of your rotors (called the hat) has a light surface layer of rust, the retaining ring/clip (I'm still not sure what to call it) might be a little difficult to see in dim light. Fear not, tomorrow when you open it up and take a look in the daylight, it will be there. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • 97xpresso97xpresso Posts: 249
    There are excellent Mopar sites for the do-it-your-self, but this site won't allow any references to them :(
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    I took another look this morning, and I can't find any type of retaining washer around any of the lugs. I bought the van used, so I'm assuming the rotors must have been turned at some point, and this might be why the retainer is gone. I have soaked it overnight in liquid wrench, tried pulling, prying & beating it and it still won't budge. Just to be sure, I'm not supposed to remove the center nut, correct? I have to put it back together as my wife can't be without her van today, but if you have any other suggestions, I'd be very grateful.
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    The only site I found was called Allpar, but it didn't have much in the way of brakes except for a basic pad swap. If you know of any others, feel free to drop me a PM.
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Hmmm, I'm at a bit of a loss. Assuming that the retaining washer is removed, those suckers should almost literally fall off. If you are planning on replacing your rotors with new ones, you might want to take a small hand mallet, two pounds should do it, and hit the back side of the rotor a few times.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    Glad to report I finally got the old rotors to come off. I picked up some different penetrating spray, called Deep Creep.. sprayed both sides liberally, waited a few minutes, then since the old rotors were going anyways, hit it with a small sledge hammer. It started to pop off & a couple more taps did the trick. Passenger side was much easier, not rusted quite as much. I live in NE Ohio & we get lots of salt on the roads in the winter, so I'm assuming that was the cause. Thanks alot for the help.. I really appreciate it - Jason
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Yes! Congratulations! Ya done it. :shades:

    "I live in NE Ohio & we get lots of salt on the roads in the winter, so I'm assuming that was the cause."

    Hmmm, our 2003 GC has spent almost its entire life shuttling between southern New Hampshire and the north side of Boston. While our town hardly uses any salt at all, once on the freeway it's "Salt City" all of the way to Mrs. Shipo's office. Could it be that Ohio uses even more salt that Massachusetts? Yikes!

    Well, the good news is that the hard part is done and mounting the new parts is a piece of cake from here. ;-)

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    The new pads & rotor went on in no time.. our city & state crews use a bunch of salt pretty much everywhere around here. My street is a 2 block long dead end and the salt truck usually hits it every decent snow. I try to use the laser-type no touch car wash in the winter that sprays the chassis too but the last 2 winters, esp. this past one were horrible. Just wondering, did you change out your rear brakes too? Mine seem to generate an awful lot of brake dust. I haven't pulled the wheels to check them but I probably should. Thanks again for the help - Jason
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    I haven't even bothered to look back there. If I'm not mistaken, the 2003 has wear sensors, and since rear brakes on FWD vehicles wear WAY slower than say the rear brakes on my 530i (due to the near 50/50 weight distribution as opposed to the front end weight bias of our GCs). As such, I'll just wait until said wear sensors start sounding before I bother with them. FWIW, I finally had to replace the original rear drum brakes on our 1998 GC Sport last week after nearly 90,000 miles. Why? Not because the pads needed it (close but not just yet), but because the end caps on the brake cylinders back there were dry and cracked and on the verge of leaking. Since new cylinders were only like $25, I simply replaced them instead of wasting the time doing an overhauling (assuming that I could even find my brake cylinder honing device, something I haven't used since the late 1970).

    As for dust, I used the NAPA United Brake Parts - AE Metallic pads on the front, and they are now generating less dust than the OEM rear pads. When the time comes, I'll use the AE Metallic pads on the rear as well.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • jjtjjjtj Posts: 103
    I pretty much felt the same way regarding the rear brakes. I wanted to use ceramic pads on the front but they weren't available for my application. These generate almost no dust and don't squeak. My next project is to replace the transmission fluid / filter. The service mgr. at my Dodge dealer tells me I need to use RTV sealant instead of a replaceable gasket. Plus AFAIK the only place to buy Chrysler ATF+4 is the Dodge dealer. Have you tackled this one yet?
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    "Have you tackled this one yet?"

    Nope. The transmission is one of the very few things that I let the dealership do. My days of messing around with automatic transmissions are over (never liked that nasty red stuff anyway, doesn't smell like real gear lube to me). That said, my 11 year old son is prodding me to do a project car. The current pie-in-the-sky idea is to get a reasonably straight second generation (1967 to 1969) manual transmission Barracuda fastback and restore it using one of the new Hemi engines, possibly with a newer generation 5 or 6-Speed manual gearbox.

    Assuming that project (or something like it) ever sees the light of day, he wants us to make a pilgrimage with it to Royal Oak, Michigan, so that we can drive it in the "Dream Cruise". :shades:

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • selena760selena760 Posts: 1
    Hello, My disc changer stopped working with my discs still in the changer
    the changer is seperate from the radio. the lights just blink back and forth. It won't take a cd in or spit one out. I am looking for a reset button or something like that. Please help me with this =-) :cry:
  • noodle1noodle1 Posts: 2
    Hello, I have a 1994 Plymouth Voyager and the driver side rocker panel has a large rust hole in it. I assume it has been from the salt over the years. Could somebody give me some ideas as to fixing this problem? Do I need to replace the whole rocker or just patch it with something?

    Cheers
  • andee1andee1 Posts: 2
    I guess no one has ever heard of a problem with the door panel having a crack in it, on both the front passenger side and the drivers door of a 99 Grand Voyager. It I put any pressure on the arm rest you can see/hear the panel move. I imagine the price to replace the inner door panel is quite expensive. Has anyone else had a problem with this. The crack(s) are up next to the lock button, but near where the cloth panel meets the vinyl/acrylic or whatever part of the door. Please help!
  • You may be able to buy them from a junk yard and replace the broken ones yourself. Never done it but I do not think it is difficult.
  • msbenzmsbenz Posts: 1
    My vehicle was experiencing that same issues. After my mechanic found no electrical problems with the vehicle, he replaced the fuel injection pump. It has been about a months time and I have taken the vehicle on both long and short trips with no problems. Hope it works on your car :)
  • eddyrodreddyrodr Posts: 2
    Hi everyone I am in the need of some info. I have a 1998 dodge grand caravan 3.0 6cyl. My horn and cruise control does not work at all i replaced the horn relay and the fuses i was wondering if anyone knew of problems like this. Also i took the van to my mechanic he seems to think that it may be a problem with the horn switch and to replace it I would have to have the airbad replaced is this true?
  • cbwilshacbwilsha Posts: 70
    I suspect you have a bad clock spring which is mounted in the steering wheel and the horn and cruise control electrics have to pass through the clock spring--also the air bag BTW.

    There was a recall on 98's for faulty clock springs so take it to a Dealer and he can verify whether or not yours has been changed., If it has been changed, I would remind the Dealer that this is a safety related item and he will most likely change it again without charge.

    C.B.
  • Well I cannot tell you how to fix the problem, but we are having the "exact" same issue with the same year as your vehicle. Is yours a 3.3 liter? I can tell you we have replaced the following and it still has not solved it. (100k miles) 96 3.3 v6

    Fuel pump, fuel filter , spark plugs and wires, ignition coil (distributor) , water pump, all radiator hoses, thermostat, O2 sensors and PVC valve..

    I run Valvoline oil each time.

    When the problem happens it will go after waiting to restart the engine 1-5 minutes. Computer code is 43 ("Random misfire") which indicated the coil pack but I have replaced it twice with no resolution.

    If you come up with a fix I'd be interested in what you did to resolve it also. And if I find one I'll post.

    I did find at http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/complaints

    #705961

    Someone having the same issue as you and I are. No resolution either. I am wondering if it is a design / defect issue. - As it seems to be a extended exposure to heat / equipment failure condition.
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    Could be tires need balancing
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Did anyone suggest a cam or crankshaft position sensor to you?

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • jgilbertjgilbert Posts: 1
    my service engine soon light, and airbag light comes on and does not go off.
    any help please? :cry:
  • I just had new front brake pads put on my GC '01. I was expecting the brake pedal to have very little play, and to barely need applying to stop, but it still goes down about a quarter of the way and requires firm applying. It does stop much better, but still has the play in the pedal. My question is this: Should the pedal have play in it or should it barely need to be applied? Or does the pedal need an adjustment? I've heard of people having their pedal adjusted because it went too far down when applied.
    The main reason I'm asking is because I'm not sure I fully trust the place I had the pads replaced at, and am hoping they did it correctly. I don't know how to physically check the pads.
    Thanks for any help. :)
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Technically speaking, there should NEVER be any difference in how much pedal travel you get before your brakes begin to bite, regardless of how much lining you have remaining on your pads. If the pedal travel does vary, THEN you have a problem.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    Do you know if they bled the brakes after installing the new pads? Made sure the fluid is full?
  • I know they filled the fluid dispenser because they made a mess and spilled some around it, but I don't know if they bled the brakes. All the receipt said was replaced brake pads....
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    I'd take it back and tell them what it's doing and ask them if they bled the brakes.
  • jborrisjborris Posts: 1
    Is this fix still working? I read in another forum that the problem is computer related,and that if you disconnect the battery the computer will reset and voila you have gauges. I did try the battery trick. It work for a while and then the problem gradually returned after a few weeks.

    Thanks
    JB
  • georgia80georgia80 Posts: 1
    I have Chrysler Voyager 1992 (6cylinder 3.3) it has a fault #22 can you help me with that what does it mean? :lemon:
  • masterpaul1masterpaul1 Posts: 421
    We have a 2001 DGC EX. Just last week I noticed that on the lower part of the speedometer, there was a part not illuminated (It was very dim). I tapped the plastic sheild a few times and it illuminated back up again. Well on occasion, I notice that it has been doing the same thing a few more times. How do you get to the light bulbs that illuminate the instrument cluster? I believe this bulb is either going out or is loose.
    Thanks
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