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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

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  • royallenroyallen Posts: 224
    georgia80, My Haynes 84-95 manual lists code 22:"Coolant sensor voltage too low or too high." The description is Coolant temperature sensor input voltage too high or too low. This sensor is located on the thermostat housing where the large upper radiator hose attaches to the engine. Roy
  • Check the wiring in the Steering column.

    There was a loose connection in our 97 dodge caravan and that was the cause.
  • We seem to have a similar problem. We also purchased a 2002 Dodge Caravan (4 cylinder) in December 2001. Our car first began stalling out in 2003. At present, it is at the Dodge service shop for the 9th time for this same unresolved problem! They have replaced numerous parts including the fuel pump, cam sensor, power control module, ignition coil, ignition cable, and some other things and the problem still has not been resolved. Many times, no code appeared, while other times a code of P1684 pops up, followed by the word "done." We also hear a "ticking" noise when this happens, which appears to be coming from the fuse box. I am curious if your issue has been resolved.
  • jm52jm52 Posts: 4
    HELP URGENTLY REQUIRED. MY VEHICLE IS LEASED. 20 CENTS PER km
    FOR EVERY km over monthly allowed 1667, yearly 20004. NEVER PAID ATTENTION, MY FAULT HOWEVER WHAT l'M LOOKING FOR IS AN ANSWER TO A QUESTION.... PREFERABLY MORE THAN ONE RESPONSE TO VERIFY MY THEORY MIGHT BE CORRECT. -- IE ANYONE WITH SIMILAR PROBLEMS. 11 PLUS MONTHS OF USAGE ACCORDING TO ODOMETER 34460
    MINUS 20004 = 14459 X 20 CENTS PER KM =$2891.80 . AFTER 3 YEARS AT THIS RATE --- A PENALTY OF CLOSE TO $9000.00 PLUS A BUY OUT
    THIS A 97 PLYMOUTH VOYAGER. IF I EXCEEDED 20000 KM IN A YEAR THAT WOULD BE A MIRACLE .... TRUST ME !!!!!!THERE HAVE BEEN A HOST OF ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS - MOSTLY MINOR, UNTIL NOW - RELAY SWITCHES AND MOST RECENTLY A PROBLEM WITH
    STARTING, FLASHING LED'S (ACCORDING TO DODGE / PLYMOUTHS' OWN
    DATA BASE A PROBLEM WITHOUT AIR CONDITIONING UNIT --- DASHBOARD CLUSTER. AN INTERMITTENT PROBLEM IS HARD TO PROVE. ie it works, now it doesn't, now it does !!!!!!!!
    One day the VAN STALLED, EVERY LIGHT ON THE INSTRUMENT PANEL FLASHED AND DIED. A SOUND COULD BE HEARD, LIKE A CLICKING, YOU WOULD HAVE THOUGHT I HIT THE JACKPOT ON A SLOT MACHINE. THE VEHICLE DID START EVENTUALLY. THE TRIP READING WHICH I RARELY USED BUT FOOLISHLY RESET INDICATED A READING OF OVER 10, 500 KM'S I HAVE FAITHFULLY MAINTAINED ALL ASPECTS RE UPKEEP OF THIS VEHICLE. I RECENTLY SPENT OVER $2000.00 FOR A NEW TRANNY.
    I ASKED ABOUT TRANNY PROBLEMS WHEN THE LEASE WAS SIGNED. I WAS REASSURED THAT YES THIS WAS A PROBLEM WITH DODGE / PLYMOUTH CARAVAN / VOYAGER, BUT IT WAS A PROBLEM THAT HAD BEEN CORRECTED, IN OTHER WORDS, NOT AN ISSUE ON YEAR 1997.
    DID I TAPE THE CONVERSATION? NO !!!!
    DID I GET A SWORN STATEMENT TO THIS EFFECT? NO !!!!
    NOW THE ODOMETER, WHICH I KNOW WAS ACTING WEIRD, IF ONLY ON AN INTERMITTENT BASIS.
    PROBLEM: I PAY, "IN GOOD FAITH" AND FIX CURRENT PROBLEM WITH ELECTRICAL SYSTEM --- NOW THE ODOMETER WORKS FINE ????
    I DONT' NEED A FIX TO THE PROBLEM, JUST MORE THAN ONE CONFIRMATION THAT "THE ELECTRONIC CLUSTER" THAT CONTROLS THE ODOMETER READING, COULD HAVE BEEN, EVEN TEMPORARILY MALFUNCTIONING ---- IN A SERIOUS WAY......
  • kadsr1kadsr1 Posts: 2
    99 ram instrument cluster will not light up but all gauges
    and trouble lights still work. are there any fuses that control
    this? If not what could be checked to find a solution.
  • emmy21220emmy21220 Posts: 1
    Hi! I had the same problem with my 1997 Dodge Caravan. There was a recall for a lot of people having the problem. Took it to the dealer and they fixed it...haven't had a problem with it since. I believe it was the clockspring assembly being wound too tight. :)

    Hope this helps...
  • Yes jhconcord,

    I also have had a gas smell in our 1996 T&C minivan. One day while searching under the hood, I found where I believe the gas is coming from.
    It has only happened a few times, but happens so rarely that I have not had a permanent fix performed. The gas smell seemed more intense if the blower was running for any reason, as you may have noticed. The source of the intermittent leak on ours is the fuel supply rails that supply gas to the injectors. The exact location of the leak is the joint where the "U"-shaped fuel line connects to the two straight fuel supply rails. Only the joint closest to the front of the vehicle leaked on ours. This might be a place to start with your dealer or auto mechanic.

    Good Luck and best regards,
    .
    Town & Country Owner
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    I didn't realize that they leased used cars and vans.

    I DONT' NEED A FIX TO THE PROBLEM, JUST MORE THAN ONE CONFIRMATION THAT "THE ELECTRONIC CLUSTER" THAT CONTROLS THE ODOMETER READING, COULD HAVE BEEN, EVEN TEMPORARILY MALFUNCTIONING ---- IN A SERIOUS WAY......

    I would check other Chrysler/Dodge dealers and just ask the service managers if this is possible, without telling them about your leasing it and see what they tell you. If you can get one to confirm it, have him put it in writing. If not, couldn't you just buy the van at the end of the lease without paying a per mile overage penalty?
    I would think that penalty would only kick in if returning the van after the lease.
  • jm52jm52 Posts: 4
    Thank you [marine2] for info & suggestions. (sorry to all users for long message - all caps) I will do what you suggest - makes sense. Still be curious if anyone has had problems similar or close to same. thanks again - calm reasonable approach appreciated.
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    I really would ask about having to pay an overage penalty if you bought it after the lease. I can't see why you should if not turning it back in, but I could be wrong. It might help give you some peace of mind if all the problems have been worked out of your van and your considering buying it.
  • pweisentpweisent Posts: 1
    I have a 1992 (or according to some auto parts stores, a late 92 model) Plymouth Voyager. This van has always run great! It has almost 200,000 miles on it and the AC still works. Recently we have been having problems with starting the van...we knew it was the ignition switch but just never got around to changing it. Yesterday we went to start the van and it started smoking from inside the steering column. We pulled it apart and found the ignition switch fried. We changed it and the locking mechanism but when you turn the key to start the van there is no power. No dash light. The headlights, interior lights and everything that is not connected to the ignition works but the van won't even turn over. We have been told it is a relay switch, a cut-off switch, a fuse but not where to locate anything. My owners manual and my Haynes manual tell me nothing. Can anyone tell me if there is a safety fuse/relay/switch on this model and if so where it is? Thanks so much.
  • buckshot1buckshot1 Posts: 1
    I have a 92 Grand Caravan that both the analog tach and speedometer are very 'sticky'. The tach will not go below 1000 RPM even when the ignition is off and the Speedometer has to be tapped on to get it show lower speeds. Both are very slow to move in advance and will not show accurate readings. The other guages appear to be working although there is no way to tell.
    I have been told there are 2 main parts:
    The Instrument cluster and
    the computer control module.
    Does the control module affect both the speedo and the tach or just the speedo ?

    Thanks for any help !!
  • We have a 2000 Grand Caravan 3.0L V6. The engine has around 68,000 miles on it. The problem is this: it seems that I need to change the spark plugs on the van every five months due to misfires. I know that this is a misfire that we are experiencing due to the fact that the dealership mechanic allowed me to watch as he diagnosed the van. The computer showed him that one of them, No. 6, was misfiring. He was nice enough to just replace the one plug. The plug was an Autolite which, he says, don’t do to well in Chryslers. After he did this the van ran great again. This was a quick fix, but by the end month the “shudder” returned. I’m certain that it is not solely number six. So, I then had all of the plugs replaced, as well as a full diagnostic done at the dealership. The mechanic at the dealership wanted me to replace the distributor cap, rotor, plugs, and wire, all running over $800. Being that the plugs, wires, rotor, PCV valve, distributor cap and rotor were all only less than a year old, I was sure that that wasn’t worth the price for their method of troubleshooting. Now it is a few months later and it seems it’s time to replace the plugs again. I do not get any indicator lights, I am not laboring the engine with the air-conditioner—as that was how the mechanic was able to see how quickly the misfires came. The plugs themselves seem as though they may be getting too much spark. There was a slight white dust both on the plugs as well as within the distributor cap.

    Any suggestions you may have for me would be extremely helpful. I don’t mind changing the plugs every few months, however on the V6 some of them are very difficult to reach.
  • Yeah I would like to know the answer to that one as well. I got a 98 GC and the the entire cluster board is dead. If so, is there a limit to how many times you can do this trick? Or should I just have the cluster board changed?

    Thanks
    KB
  • davids1davids1 Posts: 411
    Is there any crud buildup on the spark plugs. Could be an early indication of head gasket failure causing the plugs to foul.
  • no, there isn't a crud build up, however, there is a slight white dust around them, as well as within the distributor cap, which to me makes me think that it is getting too much electricity. I was told that it could be "high resistance in the secondary ignition system."
  • stevef3stevef3 Posts: 2
    The power outlet on my 99 Grand Voyager stopped working milliseconds after plugging in an air pump. I'm sure it must be a blown fuse, but I can't figure out which one. They all look good, and my Haynes manual wasn't any help. Does anybody know? Thanks!
  • pkwalpkwal Posts: 1
    I just called my Chysler auto shop again this morning. I am getting tired of no response other than: "There have been no recalls or reports of such a problem." If you have an idea, please let me know.

    There is NO ryhme or reason for this problem. It happens in any weather, time of day, length of use....Periodically, my car acts dingy. The locks will open/close, lights go off/on, .... Once or twice while driving the entire car shut down for a few seconds then started again like nothing was wrong.

    I don't want to be stranded one day. We have had it in, but we are told it must act up on them for them to "get" it.

    We depend upon the dealer to help us. Very mechanical, we aren't. But they say there is nothing that they can do.

    We have an extended warranty--but it will soon run out.

    Help, please!
  • irvmlkirvmlk Posts: 1
    I have a Chrysler Voyager minivan 2000. It starts readily when the engine is very cold or very hot. At intermediate temperatures it must be cranked about 5 seconds and there is a smell of gasoline as though it might be flooded. However so far it always starts. I have had the fuel pump replaced, the injector nozzles cleaned and an AIC motor replaced with no improvement. Has anyone any suggestions.
  • marine2marine2 Posts: 1,155
    This web site might help all people owning Dodge Minivans. It gives recalls for every year.

    http://www.automotive.com/used-cars/recalls/40/minivans-vans/dodge/grand-caravan/index.htm- l
  • dandydodandydo Posts: 1
    Hi.
    I hope this helps. We had a 94 Town and country that did the same thing that your van is doing, except it never died. The power locks and lights would go on and off and the sensor would show that the sliding door was open, but of course, it wasn't. It drove me nuts!!! I had to turn off the rolling locks to keep from burning out the motor for the locks. Anyway, we finally figured out what it was and my husband was able to fix it for 8 dollars. So here's what was happening with our van: there was a thing at the back of the slider ( I can't remember what they called it, the latch?? ). Anyway...if you open the slider and look behind the rear end where it connects to the back fender area, you'll see a small plastic part, cylinder-shaped. You can pull that out, disconnect the wires and put the new part in. It'll look like it doesn't fit, but the first time you shut the door it will adjust the length (it's "telescopic", meaning it will shorten itself to fit the van door space). The only tricky part is trying to maneuver you and the door so you can get the part out, but once you figure that out, it's a snap. Literally. I hope this helps....our van was normal again after this (before it acted like it was possessed!)
  • andrew13andrew13 Posts: 1
    Hi. I recently replaced my fuel injector seals on my 91Grand Caravan 3.3L V6. After putting it back together and starting the engine, the idle is extremely high. The butterfly flap inside the throttle body is not stuck. The cables seem fine. Is there an adjustment I haven't made somewhere? Do I need to replace my Automatic Idle Speed motor? Any suggestions?
    Thanks
  • shiposhipo Posts: 9,152
    Off hand guess: Vacuum leak, probably one of your seals didn't seal.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Your problem is the cluster gauges themselves.

    The Powertrain Control Module controls both the tachometer and the speedometer.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Recheck the connector pins on the Idle Air Speed Motor. If they're okay it does sound like a vacuum leak. On that age of a car the rubber hoses are probably started to deteriorate, get brittle and crack. During your seal replacement you may have disturbed one and it broke.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    Your message indicated that the distributor cap, rotor and plug wires might only be a year old. If that's true, are they Chrysler parts or were they aftermarket replacements? I've seen aftermarket stuff cause problems, especially plug wires.

    The possibility is a weak ignition coil. The white look to the plugs is generally a good sign. I agree with your technician, Autolite plugs do not last long in Chrysler products.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • mitch7mitch7 Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 dodge caravan 3 speed auto. It stays in first gear until 30 mph shifts smooth then stays in second gear till 52 mph before going into third smooth. De-acceleration is the same into second at 52 then first at 30. Any ideas as to what a solution or fix might be? Thanks!
  • thank you Dusty. i don't know if they are aftermarket, it's true that they were replaced when i had a full tune up done. so, it's possible that the wires and cap and rotor were not made specifically for Chryslers? i see where you're going here. If it's a weak ignition coil, are we solving the problem by getting new wires, plugs, rotor and cap from Chrysler? If i go to Chrysler and have this done, a little over $800, do you think this might take care of the problem?

    thanks again
  • I have a 97 Dodge G/C-van. All exterior lights stopped working via the dashboard switch. Brake lights, blinkers, backup lights work with respective function... Can pull steering column lever and high beams come on, but again -- nothing with the dashboard console switch... Everything else works fine. Called dealer -- he said BCM $700.... Wondering if any other options.. Seems rather extreme...
    Thanks.
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