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Dodge/Plymouth/Chrysler Minivan Problems & Solutions

1969799101102203

Comments

  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    My ODB code lists the following for P0134:

    "P0134 O2 Sensor Circuit No Activity Detected (Bank 1 Sensor 1)"

    Your service manual may be correct however, especially if it is a Chrysler factory shop manual.

    The "downstream" O2 sensor will be found by following the exhaust pipes from the exhaust manifolds, down towards the muffler/catalytic converter. You will see a wire going to it just like any other O2 sensor.

    The P0134 simply means that the sensor output voltage isn't varying at all. Because of the age of your vehicle, this code might mean a poor electrical connection somewhere in the O2 sensor circuit back to the computer.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • Thanks, Dusty. So would you interpret the message in my Chrysler factory shop manual (right rear upstream) to suggest that the problem (malfunction or poor connection) is with the upstream or downstream sensor. I would assume it is the upstream one but the phrase "right rear" would seem to indicate it is the downstream one. I think the manual could have been a little more helpful.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Different manufacturers use different terminology, if the shop manual said "upstream" then that's the one closest to the engine. Check for wiring that may have contacted the exhaust and burned, and remove and clean the connection to the O2 sensor before replacing it.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,931
    Tollelege,

    Actually WIJOCO
    is probably correct. I think that both definitions are pointing to the same thing. "Right rear" could be the Chrysler shop manual's way of saying "bank 1." Bank 1 would be, I think, at the rear of your engine compartment on a Chrysler mini-van. In either case it sounds like it would be the O2 sensor nearest the cylinder head.

    I also agree with wijoco on the likely cause. I have seen very, very few O2 sensors go completely dead or steady-state. The one's that Chrysler has used in the past usually fail by going "lazy," meaning they don't react in a linear fashion to the rise in temperature. It usually is an open connection between the sensor and the computer, or a shorted wire (like wijoco said, to the exhaust manifold).

    Chrysler use to pack their computer connectors with grease and I don't ever recall seeing a poor connection there, but if there is more than one connector between the sensor and computer, those would be a much more likely cause. The first one I'd check would be the connector at the sensor itself. That one is more prone to being degraded by corrosion from the environment.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • Thanks for the comments. The tech kept asking how is your transmission??? Got us nervous. With the front end problems, the tranny and a guy asking me if I was sure I had enough oil in the motor( said he heard it knocking)We traded it in on Sat. We had taken it in Fri. about the clunk from the front end and they allowed my Husband to watch what they were doing. They found both axles were loose and tightened them up then the whole front end squeaked !!! He noticed what looked like hammer marks on the front frame. He mentioned this and was told that is how it was made ?? With fresh hammer marks?It's a 2002 with 50,000km. We had been having trouble in May with the steering and had it aligned 4 times. Just had sway bars, stableizer bars and a bunch of front end parts replaced in Oct. What does this tell you?
  • Hello, all.

    My question is this: How do you remove the plastic cover over the spare tire release nut? I tried to pry it up, and unscrew it, but neither way seemed to work. The owners manual just said to remove the cover, but didn't detail how to do this, and I don't want to damage it.

    Thanks,
    Frank
  • If you owned a Chrysler minivan before 1995, a midwestern newspaper reporter wants to talk with you. Please send your daytime contact information to bclanton@detnews.com or jfallon@edmunds.com by Friday, December 5, 2003.
    Thanks,
    Jeannine Fallon
    PR Director
    Edmunds.com

    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • I purchased a 1998 Grand Voyager last January. At 67k miles, the transmission failed in dramatic fashion - the differential scattered and physically prevented the flywheel from turning. There were holes in the case, so I couldn't recover the core charge on the Mopar rebuilt transmission.

    By 80k, the A/C lost its refrigerant. There was a hissing sound from the vents when we would turn it on as the charge was leaking, and after a little while, it stopped making the noise and failed to cool at all. There is zero pressure in the system right now; I'll get it fixed in the spring if I'm unfortunate enough to still own it.

    Last night (at 81k miles) the brake warning light flickered twice. Haven't looked into that one yet; don't really want to.

    This is the newest vehicle I've ever owned (by 8 years and 60k miles). My other car is an '87 BMW 528e that I purchased with 149k and is going to turn over 195k tomorrow. The ownership cost between the two doesn't even begin to compare - it has cost me almost as much just to repair the Plymouth as it has to purchase AND maintain the BMW. I've had the Plymouth less than a year and the BMW almost three. It's even more painful when I consider that the BMW beats the Plymouth by 50% on fuel economy.

    I'm getting ready to unload the Plymouth. Where is the incentive to "Buy American"?!? I'm most likely to look at "Japanese" SUVs - I still won't get good mileage, but the reliability should be on par with my BMW.
  • wijocowijoco Posts: 462
    Could be something as simple as low brake fluid level.
  • Lets see if I have this right. You bought a USED 98 Voyager in 2002 with more than 50,000 miles on it. and without any warning, or noises, or checking the trans for burnt fluid, it blew up at 67,000 miles. Did you bother to have it checked out by a mechanic BEFORE you bought it? Was it from a private party or used car lot or a reputable dealer? It seems to me this information is relevant, before you post of Atrocious reliability! Some drivers just do not take care of their cars/vans!
  • royallenroyallen Posts: 221
    On one hand, one should be reluctant to blame the victim, of which there were many in the '89-'02 interval hence several Caravan & GC years on the CR "avoid" list for example which I believe is not owner behavior related. On the other hand, those that follow the Edmunds discussions would know this van needed transmission service at least twice, when purchased and 15000 miles later (not to mention needing at least two service cycles at 15 & 30K). At the same time, reliable contributors have recounted such failures in spite of documented service from day one. Roy
  • pluto5pluto5 Posts: 618
    Hopefully DC will straighten out the Chrysler products. Why anyone would buy a second DC minivan is beyond me.
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    Does anyone know how to get to the front blower fan to replace it? Our van blower makes a noise in cold weather (never in warm weather) . I think the bearing is going bad.

    Our 97 GC LE with 129K has been a great van. No transmssion or electrical problems. Although it has not been as reliable as our old 89 Mazda MPV, but it has been OK. Never left us stranded. There is no rust or any type of leaks. Great van on long trips. It gets 23-24 miles on the highway.

    I would like to fix the fan before selling it. The kids are grown and my wife does not need all that room anymore. She is done driving mini vans after 14 years.

    Thanks,
    Joe
  • royallenroyallen Posts: 221
    Joe, My Haynes '84-'95 manual says 1. disconnect the neg battery cable then 2. work under the passengers dash to disconnect the electrical connector and 3. remove 5 attachment screws and lower the motor and fan. If yours doesn't look that easy, you might want a manual for your van. Roy
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    I think you should sell it in the summer!
  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 396
    I know you were joking.......but if the van that so many people (rightfully in their experience) complaint about, has an occasionally-noisy $35 blower, I much rather replace it than try to hide the issue.

    Royallen,, thank you for your reply, I will check and report back.

    Joe
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    I was joking. An inexpensive fix if it is relatively easy to do yourself is a no brainer. Go ahead and fix it.

    My wife is on year 19 of minivan driving and I doubt if she will ever drive anything else. Our kids are almost out of the coup as well, but that room sure comes in handy occasionally, and she likes to be sitting up high in a minivan rather than a car, so a minivan will be in our future for many years to come.
  • pluto5pluto5 Posts: 618
    When I want to sit high I get on an airplane. Minivans take the fun out of driving. Just my opinion.
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,564
    Well, minivans aren't meant to be the ultimate driving machine. People and cargo haulers are a bit at odds with "fun to drive" vehicles.

    On the other hand, you wouldn't want to take your wife, kids and suitcases on vacation in a corvette. That would really take the fun out of driving.
  • Today while I was driving, I hit a patch of snow and ice while trying to stop. I noticed that the brakes started making this pulsing hammering sound that I could feel in the brake pedal. The van did come to a stop with minimal slipping. I drove some more and tried braking again on wet ground. The braking was smooth and normal. But again on snow and ice the same pulsing hammering sound. Is this normal and what is causing the noise and vibration? Thanks in advance.
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