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Chevrolet Blazer Brake Problems



  • Originals did have I believe clips on 2 lugs and I did assume you have the caliper bracket OFF and the parking brake released and the cable/pedal is not over tighten.
    Then hit away. The axle will move in the housing some - its a GM.
  • 2001 Chevy Blazer, bought used in June 2005 with 63,000 miles, now a little over 75,000. All recommended maintenence kept up in the past. Never wrecked.

    On nights where the temperature hovers around or falls below freezing, the emergency brake pedal will "stick" in the engaged position when I pull the release handle. Sometimes I have to get my foot behind the pedal to help it forward and disengage the ebrake. Any other weather, no problems at all.

    Last night it was WAY cold and I had to help the pedal forward after nothing happened when I pulled the release handle. When I got to my destination and pushed down the ebrake pedal, it didn't engage! It just snapped back forward to the disengaged position, and continues to do so.

    I have yet to twist my body under the dash to look at it. Before I do, does anyone have any insight or experience with this weirdness? Possible cable wear maybe?
  • I forgot to add - the ebrake itself works fine and the cable appears undamaged at the pedal. This is strictly a pedal problem.

    From what I can see, the "ratchet" workings themselves are behind a panel.
  • Yes, there is a release spring that sometimes the wiring bundle gets in the way of so have to get up in there and move it so spring works.
  • leeiswho2bleeiswho2b Posts: 2
    I'm thinking of getting a 97 Jimmy. Anyways, there is a concern I have. Sometimes when you press the brakes you can here a buzzing sound coming from what it seems to be the front driverside. It sounds like an electric motor or something. I was told the ABS sensor, calipers, rotors, and pads have been replaced. Also said he had a diagnostic ran on it and showed no problems. Was worse before replacing the before mentioned parts. The brakes felt a little spongy to me. Had a friend said his Grand Vitara did the same, all it needed was bled. Question is anyone had this problem before, and how did you resolve it?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Sure the sound is brakes and not a vac problem - check all the vac lines on the drivers side for rot from PVC to the reservior and also the large hose to the power brake unit. See if all OK and that the throttle cable is not against the PCV as that gives off a buzzing noise as the retainer clips on the intake always break off so resecure.
  • leeiswho2bleeiswho2b Posts: 2
    I don't think I clarified enough. It almost sounds like a really loud fuel pump, like when you turn the ignition on before starting. It comes on for a couple of seconds then goes off. But it is in the front driver side by the wheel. it doesn't stay on. Does it only when you are pressing the brake. But not everytime. This is with the engine running.
  • my97jimmymy97jimmy Posts: 15
    I just put new front brake rotors and pads on my Jimmy, which I've done many times before. Immediately after replacing them I went for a test drive. When I apply the brakes I feel a mild vibration/shaking and the right wheel gets hot and the right brake pads squeel. Do I have a bad rotor, if so which one, or do I have a bad caliper? All worked fine before I changed them. Thanks, Keith
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Sounds like when you pushed the pistons back in the right one jammed on applying the brakes. Did you grease the slides? Pads must also freely move in the calipers on the metal inserts - if they jam that could be it too - sometimes the caliper bracket gets rust under that metal insert and the pads bind - pop the insert our and remove all rust if binding and use alittle grease on the pad to insert mating points.
    The rears are known for binding as the single piston is composite plastic.
  • my97jimmymy97jimmy Posts: 15
    Thanks repairdog, that was it! The caliper slides have rubber bushings in them and they were all gummed up. I cleaned and lubricated them and they don't get hot anymore, but now when I brake my Jimmy shakes like crazy. I probably warped the rotors, didn't I?
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Most likely with that dragging pad. Get them turned $10-15 each if enough material left or new $35 each and a simple swap out no waiting. Most new ones are warranteed for 1 year so if they do it again you get new ones free with your labor of course.
  • my97jimmymy97jimmy Posts: 15
    Yea, the ones I got have a warranty so I'll just take them back and get new ones. Thanks for all your help. If you're ever in NJ look me up and we'll tip a few. Beers not cows. Keith
  • shep74shep74 Posts: 1
    Where did you find info to help replacing booster? I need to replace mine on my 96 jimmy and can not find diagrams or instructions. My pedal instantly went hard and I replace valve but no change so I'm replacing booster. Can anyone help with instructions or diagrams? :confuse: ">
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The Haynes manual sold at all stores tells how about $17.
  • Stever@EdmundsStever@Edmunds YooperlandPosts: 38,968
    Sometimes you can find what you need online, free.

    And there's nothing like getting grease on your laptop keyboard. ;)
  • jkash76jkash76 Posts: 4
    Anyone know an easy step by step guide on for changing the front and rear brake pads on a 1999 Chevy Blazer 4X4?

    I would prefer not to buy a manual. I read the Haynes and it seemed a bit confusing...
  • changed master cylinder and power booster check brake lines bleed them new pads and even checked for leaks in hoses have no clue to what it could be baffled. :confuse:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Replace with correct brake fluid. You don't state the age of the vehicle, but if the fluid has some years on it you can get high moisture content and the fluid will "boil" under high heat, like racing or slowing the vehicle on a long downhill run. Don;t know about the ABS light, but it will make the pedal feel soft/spongy.

  • brakes are not working properly i stated in ? 37 puzzeled i can still drive the blazer but rather not any other suggestions thanks will try see if there is different brake fluid. :confuse:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Haven't got the vehicle here to look at right now, but wondering about front rotor replacement on a '99 2wd. Is the rotor pressed onto the hub, or is it easy to get the rotor off the hub?


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