Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Chevrolet Blazer Brake Problems

24

Comments

  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    Most likely with that dragging pad. Get them turned $10-15 each if enough material left or new $35 each and a simple swap out no waiting. Most new ones are warranteed for 1 year so if they do it again you get new ones free with your labor of course.
  • my97jimmymy97jimmy Posts: 15
    Yea, the ones I got have a warranty so I'll just take them back and get new ones. Thanks for all your help. If you're ever in NJ look me up and we'll tip a few. Beers not cows. Keith
  • shep74shep74 Posts: 1
    Where did you find info to help replacing booster? I need to replace mine on my 96 jimmy and can not find diagrams or instructions. My pedal instantly went hard and I replace valve but no change so I'm replacing booster. Can anyone help with instructions or diagrams? :confuse: ">
  • repairdogrepairdog Posts: 948
    The Haynes manual sold at all stores tells how about $17.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,911
    Sometimes you can find what you need online, free.

    And there's nothing like getting grease on your laptop keyboard. ;)

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • jkash76jkash76 Posts: 4
    Anyone know an easy step by step guide on for changing the front and rear brake pads on a 1999 Chevy Blazer 4X4?

    I would prefer not to buy a manual. I read the Haynes and it seemed a bit confusing...
  • changed master cylinder and power booster check brake lines bleed them new pads and even checked for leaks in hoses have no clue to what it could be baffled. :confuse:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Replace with correct brake fluid. You don't state the age of the vehicle, but if the fluid has some years on it you can get high moisture content and the fluid will "boil" under high heat, like racing or slowing the vehicle on a long downhill run. Don;t know about the ABS light, but it will make the pedal feel soft/spongy.

    Jim
  • brakes are not working properly i stated in ? 37 puzzeled i can still drive the blazer but rather not any other suggestions thanks will try see if there is different brake fluid. :confuse:
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Haven't got the vehicle here to look at right now, but wondering about front rotor replacement on a '99 2wd. Is the rotor pressed onto the hub, or is it easy to get the rotor off the hub?

    Thanks,

    Jim
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Figured it out. Was a very simple design, though not one I had seen before. The bearings and spindle are one unit, and the rotor simply slips on over the lugs like a FWD car.

    Now, getting it off of an 8 year old car took some 8lb persuasion, but still a simple repair.
  • bernjabernja Posts: 1
    My husband replaced the rear brake pads, rotors, and calipers. We have bled the brakes (all four wheels a couple of time), but brake petal is still spongy. Any ideas on what else to check? Thanks!
  • I have a 2000 4X4 Blazer with rear brake problems. For some reason, the rear brakes aren't grabbing. There's no air in the lines. I've bled the brakes a few times to try to fix the problem, so I know that's okay. After I bleed them, they will work for a day or two, but then quit working for no reason. There are no leaks that I can find, and there's plenty of brake fluid. Can anyone give me an idea of where to start to try to fix this problem?
  • dan134dan134 Posts: 1
    im doing the brakes on my cousins 99 blazer and when i checked the fluid the resovoir for the rears was empty. so i thought that there was a hole in the line some where. but i cant find any leaks ANYWHERE. it has the abs module sitting on the drivers side inner fender. has anyone had this problem before and know where it mighta went to. it has me all confused.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,954
    Sometimes vacuum from a defective power brake booster can suck it out and burn it in the engine. Otherwise you might have to test the system with a power bleeder. You might also look for brake fluid leaking under the dash, under the carpeting, by the brake pedal.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Have you already pulled the calipers and checked for a leak there?
  • booogbooog Posts: 8
    At times my ABS kicks in when it's not needed, no slipping and low speed. Brought it to a mechanic who quoted $1090 to replace the Wheel Speed Sensor and EBCM. Not sure this car is even worth $1k anymore. I've disconnected the ABS system and it's not happening anymore. Is it all right to drive with the ABS disconnected? Or is there a less expensive solution?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    The price you were quoted is fair depending on what parts the mechanic uses. The OEM GM hub bearings w/ABS rings has a MSRP of $1084 a pair with a jobber price of $564 per pair. However, the you can get excellent quality aftermarket hub bearings w/ABS rings for $270 a pair from places like AutoZone. If you have been using metallic brake pads, the ABS rings may be clogged with metal dust. The ABS reluctor is a magnetic sensor. The ABS rings on the front and rear may just need a thorough cleaning.

    Mechanics make nearly as much money off the parts as they do their labor. I would get another opinion about replacing the EBCM (electronic brake control module) in fact they can be rebuilt for a third of what a new one would cost. The jobber price for a GM EBCM is $516 with a MSRP of $992. Jobber price is what the mechanic would have to pay for the part at a Chevrolet or GM dealership parts department. Most so called "discount" aftermarket parts stores sell to the public at jobber price. In other words, you can purchase the parts at AutoZone just as cheap as the mechanic. When the mechanic buys at jobber price, he adds at least 20% to that price for his parts profit margin. Some mechanics add more than that! Unfortunately, hardly any mechanics will let you buy and furnish your own parts. They gotcha coming and going.

    The labor cost to replace the front hub bearings w/ABS rings is about $200 . The EBCM is about the same. Labor $400 + $785 for parts = $1185. I considered replacing the hub bearings on my 1991 Blazer 4x4 SUV whe I do a brake pad and rotor replacment in the next few days. I want to replace the hub bearing wABS ring and rotors just because they are OEM equipment that is 18 years old and I plan on playing with the vehicle for a long time. I have no ABS codes yet. I will do the labor myself so all I will be paying is for the parts.

    If you disable the ABS, you will have standard power brakes. I have owned five high performance Pontiacs and Chevrolets in the 1960s that were equipped with drum brakes and two of them did not even have power brakes! My 1963 Pontiac Catalina had 370 HP, weighed 3900 lbs., with standard drum brakes without power assist! It was sometimes quite an adventure coming to a high speed stop!
  • katherine4katherine4 Posts: 1
    My 97 chevy blazer brakes are making a long whoosing sound when I apply the brakes. They are working fine otherwise. My mechanic thinks it may be the brake booster. What are the symptoms of the booster going out? Should there be other signs?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,954
    Could be a vacuum leak, yes. Other signs would be a very hard brake pedal and a sense of decreasing brake grip.You'd feel like you are pushing harder but getting less braking.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • The valve next to the master cylinder (I believe it is referred to as the "Equilizer Valve" - where the brake lines come out of) has leaked for quite some time, but now the wheels lock-up at times when the brake is applied. I have been trying to get a replacement, however, since the vehicle is 22 years old, the part is no longer manufactured by Chevrolet. I went to a junk yard and bought a replacement twice with both leaking after installation - what luck! I am at wits end with the situation and am looking for alternative sources at this point.

    Does anyone know of a rebuild kit I can purchase? Or a place that still manufactures the part? Thanks.

    Bill
  • vettman1vettman1 Posts: 3
    I had the pads,rotors , and brake hoses replaced and the right rear brake still heats up a lot and smells.
    Any other thoughts on how to fix it.
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Change the caliper. They cost about $40 for a rebuilt, and are available lots of places. These calipers do not "reset" well, and the piston tends to bind and stick, causing the pad to drag (sometimes REALLY drag) and overheat.

    Had the same problem on my '99 model.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,911
    I always associate calipers and pads with disc brakes. I guess the "wheel cylinder" gizmo with the piston in it amounts to about the same thing (but they act on "brake shoes"). I'm assuming that the Blazer has rear drums?

    One of my rear drums imploded last month and I wound up having to get a wheel kit (bearings etc.) in addition to a brake job. Not cheap. :sick:

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Ah, a tricky question. The Blazer has drum parking brake, but disc service brake. the drum is an integral part of the rotor. The parking brakes generally do not cause a problem unless the parking brake cable is binding from road salt or some other cause. The caliper sticking after being pressed back in on a brake job is very common, which is one reason the rebuilt calipers are so cheap. It is pretty much a given that if you are doing a rear brake job you have a high risk of caliper failure after reassembly.

    The front calipers are all steel and have a very long service life. The rear calipers are aluminum with phenolic (non-metallic) pistons.
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,911
    Heh, it's usually the parking brake mechanism in rear disc brakes that give people fits. That, and the binding that comes from never using the parking brake (guilty :blush: ).

    Thanks for the inside scoop!

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    The rear parking brake on a Blazer is actually a very simple design. No hydraulics or anything, just step on the pedal, and the cable pulls against a pivot lever and wedges the shoes into the drum.

    But the rear calipers are really, really cheaply made. I have now learned that when doing a rear brake job on a Blazer, figure in the cost of rear calipers. Also, for whatever reason the rear rotors tend to warp. They can be turned and smoothed out, but I am two for two on my personal Blazers having warped rear rotors, when the fronts were smooth as glass. May have something to do with the dual drum/rotor casting.
  • caliper sticking, did mine today and have the same problem,as always with this thing this forum tells me whats wrong because they all do the same things almost as if this vehicle was designed to keep repair shops in business,
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    and one I had never seen before this one. Front caliper would release very slowly after taking your foot off the pedal. Replaced caliper, and durned if it didn't do it again!

    Get this, the inner lining of the rubber brake line had deteriorated and would allow fluid to flow freely one direction, but would separate and restrict the release. Replaced both front brake lines, purged the fluid to get rid of the trash in the line, and all was good.

    Never saw that one before or since.
  • I am attempting to change the rear break pads and rotors to my 2003 chevy blazer. how do i deal with the parking breaks. do i have to disassemble the parking breaks in order to replace the disc? if so, then how do i go about doing that and is there a special procedure to reassembling the parking break? if you have pictures that would be a huge help. thank you
Sign In or Register to comment.