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Chevrolet Blazer Brake Problems

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Comments

  • Just go get a couple rear calipers and install them. This is a common problem with S10 rear disc..
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    S10 rear calipers just don't lend themselves to being reused. The good news is that they are not that expensive, and rebuilts work fine and are readily available.

    Pick a good parts house and replace both. Quick and easy fix.
  • Feel that back wheel after driving on it for a little bit and see if it's hot. If it is I would check to see if your back brakes are dragging a little. Might not be the problem, but it's definitely worth checking.
  • zzzroczzzroc Posts: 1
    edited July 2011
    I have this thump thump with I apply my brakes makes the car rattle, but when you drive it is smooth sailing no problem. The car did this before I did anything to it. I have put new tires on it, had them balanced, front alignment, put all new rotor's and pad's on the car and still have the same problem. Now I don't know?? :cry:
  • My 2002 Blazer has developed the same problem at 74,000 miles. I did a visual inspection of all components and checked all calipers to see if they were properly "free floating". One of the rear calipers (drivers side) appeared to be somewhat sticky whereas the other passenger side floated smoothly. I have not changed any parts yet since I want to check out other possibilities like wheel bearings, warped rotors. I did check tires by moving the spare to each wheel with no change in the thump. Maybe the rear caliper drags on the disc, overheating it, causing it to warp, resulting in uneven friction on the disc's surface. I wonder if the warping could be permanent even on a new replacement disc if the caliper is not replaced? At this point I'm not sure what the problem is.
  • My 2001 LT with 4 wheel discs has dragging right rear, after changing pads and rotor. Can the mechanic do something about this or is new caliper needed? Has 174k miles with original front pads and changed both rears and r r rotor 25k ago. Now rears had to be changed again w/ l rear rotor new. Now r rear is super hot and strong smell. Suggestions for me and my mechanic??
  • jlflemmonsjlflemmons Posts: 2,240
    Change both rear calipers with rebuilts. This is a very common problem and good quality rebuilt calipers are available for ~ $40-$60 each. The caliper body is made of aluminum instead of steel.

    I have owned several Blazers. Each has had this issue.

    Good Luck!
  • new calipers, both sides.
  • my friend had his ABS light on he changed the abs on his own no more light

    the blazer brakes are skipping
    things i changed already
    front rotors ,pads and calibers
    rear rotors and pads

    and the brakes still skip
    does anyone know what this is from
  • gpat47gpat47 Posts: 2
    I have a 97 4x4 blazer. For the past 6 months, it has occasional brake failure. I put them on, the peddle goes to the floor and the engine revs up, I go through a stop sign. I took it in and they said it was my Master cylinder, then some type of sensor. It still occurred. It does it maybe once a month. I recently had the ABS booster replaced. It is not made anymore so I got a junk yard part. It was ok for 2 months, then, once again, as I go down a hill like a driveway or exit a parking lot, the brakes fail, the engine revs up and I nearly get into an accident.

    There as got to be a reason. Any suggestions?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited March 2012
    The 1990-2001 S10 and Blazer ABS system is a poor design and the 1995 - 2001 ABS was improved over the 1989-1994 ABS system. With ABS brakes it is important to flush the brake fluid every 10,000 miles, including the ABS modulator. It takes special equipment and technical knowledge to flush the ABS modulator and unfortunately, most auto repair shops don't have the expertise to bleed the air out of the ABS modulator. I found two Chevrolet dealerships that did not know how to bleed my 1991 S10 Blazer ABS system and two auto repair shops with ASE technicians on staff that told me.... "Take it somewhere else" . GM still has rebuilt 1995 - 2001 ABS modulators for sale for $800 MSRP. One company offered to rebuild my 1991 ABS modulator for $700. My 1991 ABS modulator was still good but it had air in it. I found a technician on Craig's List that came to my house and finally bled my ABS system but it too two people about 6 hours, manually cycling the ABS modulator and foot pumping. My brakes work good now but I don't think the ABS works anymore, at least it does go into the ABS test mode in the first 30 feet after I start driving the vehicle.

    The ABS brakes on my 1994 Ford F150 truck has not worked in 12 years. All the brakes my Ford truck has now is standard brakes but at least the Ford ABS modulator does not have any air in it. It seems that the Ford ABS system never had problems with air in the modulators. The brakes on my Ford truck stops fine in city traffic but the rear brakes lock up and skid on wet pavement.

    You MUST cycle the ABS modulator to expel the air when you bleed the ABS brake system. If you don't, there will still be air in the ABS modulator and the brakes can go to the floor. In order to cycle the modulator on a 1989-1995 ABS modulator, it takes a GM Tech 1 scan tool . On the 1996-2001 ABS, it takes a different scan tool.

    The GM Tech 1 scan tool is obsolete and a good used GM Tech 1 scan tool cost $400 - $500. There is no auto repair technician that will pay that much for a tool that he may only use once a year.
  • gpat47gpat47 Posts: 2
    Many Thanks. Looks like I find a reputable dealer.
  • rhallchallrhallchall Posts: 1
    Do have any suggestion for a vehicle that stops 600 times a day for delivery. I am using OEM parts now, would slotted rotors and different pads last longer?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    edited May 2012
    Slotted and vented rotors are for high speed stops. Those rotors expel heat plasma (gasses) that is created between the pads and the rotors. If left to remain between the pads and the rotors during a high speed stop, , the plasma will lubricate the pads and reduce their braking ability.

    I prefer Bendix CT3 ceramic brake pads for city or highway driving. They are quiet, have a good pedal feel, low brake dust, less rotor wear, they are long wearing and have excellent braking in all temperatures. .
  • gmbutkusgmbutkus Posts: 3
    My ABS keeps engaging when I go to stop at a slow speed. I was told by the dealer that it was the right front ABS sensor, I did not choose to pay them $400 for a $65 part, and did have it replaced with an ABS sensor--however, I still have the problem. Someone said something about an ABS sensor in the bearing--did we get the wrong part replaced--help, I'm running out of money and afraid to drive the car and only do when I have to. Thank you.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    GM/ACDelco 15997039, Sensor, front wheel, speed. 4WD......$50.00 ($101.24 msrp)

    You may be required to replace the wheel hub when using a new sensor if the sensor pick up end is hitting the reluctor ring (tone ring).
  • gmbutkusgmbutkus Posts: 3
    Thank you for your help
    Grace
  • my 2000 Blazer did the same thing. I ended up just pulling the fuse for it and now I have no ABS but the old-school brakes work fine. I did that about 2 years ago and have not had any issues. The ABS light does stay on all the time.
  • rhup234rhup234 Posts: 1
    SURE, saw more than once!
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