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BMW 7-Series 2006 and earlier

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  • bmwnabmwna Posts: 32
    I’m with BMW of North America, LLC. I’m so sorry your service experience was not what you expected. We are here to work with you and your BMW center, and we’d like the opportunity to discuss your concerns. Please give us a call at (800) 831-1117, and mention Reference #200513100524 so that we can help you more efficiently.

    BMW NA Customer Relations
  • askabry1askabry1 Posts: 7
    Tough choice. From what I've seen, eBay shows 2000 740iL's with 65-80K miles at around $17-$21 pretty regularly, and some have gone as low as $16K. Personally I wouldn't spend the kind of green you're talking about on a car already seven years old and over 100K miles.

    I know the 2000 7 series to have a better track record overall than the 98's in terms of maintenance, and my next care will be either a 00 or an 01.

    Insofar as gas ... 22 might be pushing it a bit unless you drive a lot of freeway miles. But ... that said, there's no comparing a 7 series beemer to an ES300. Your friends are talking about an upgraded Camry and one of the best luxury cars in the world. If mileage and maintenance are your bywords, go Japanese. If you want to make a statement about what you drive ...
  • lobdelllobdell Posts: 9
    We have a 2001 7 series with the sports package. The car is driven very carefully by my wife, and I get to drive it sometimes if I am good. We do not drive it anywhere near its limits. You can enable and disable the sports package with a button. I really do not notice any difference with or without the sports package. I really like the looks of the car with the 18 inch wheels and all that rubber on the ground. I get about 24 mpg on the highway at 80 mph. I have Michelin pilot sports A/S tires on the car. As you probably know, the tires on the front and rear are different sizes so rotation between the front and back is not possible. I know that BMW does not recommend tire rotation anyway. Tire mileage is not very good with these tires. You an get maybe 25k to 30k miles on the front and 20k miles on the rear if you are very careful. If you follow BMW's recommendation of 37 psi in the rear, you will get about 15k miles on the rears if you are lucky. In general, I am happy with the car but we are only using about 20% of its capabilities. I would love to drive it at 150 mph but I am not prepared to answer the questions from the local police and my insurance company. I am also concerned about future maintenance problems. It is a very safe care that I feel comfortable driving at 80 mph in traffic.
  • tiny1tiny1 Posts: 26
    OK. I just found a 2000 740iL that I like and would like to get your thoughts. It has 55.5K miles, cold weather package and special "highline" color package and new tires. The price is $25.8K, in very good condidtion (couple of small scratches in door), but I think the dealer (non BMW) will go lower (I'm targeting $23)...They will also include a 3/36 "bumper to bumper" warranty backed by Nissan for $3.5K (sounds very expensive, I'd like to get it for 2-3K)!! What do you think about this deal so far?
  • It's True! After months of research I determined the 1995 7 series to be the best automotive bargain to be had ...Bar None. I recently purchased one with 105k, pritine would not be a stretch...for $8,000.00. Happy Happy Joy Joy!
  • tiny1tiny1 Posts: 26
    I'm 6'6" and would like just a tad bit more seat travel backwards on the drivers seat. I heard that it is possible to remove a clip and get an extra inch of travel??? Has anyone done this? Is there a down side to this modification that will cost me later...or is there a reason not to do it? Room is not a concern in back since I'm looking at a 2000 740 iL...Thanks...
  • bks1bks1 Posts: 3
    :)

    Does anyone know of a way to have Sat radio added to a 2003 745Li? I would prefer one that is intergrated like the new models. I called my dealer and he said BMW doesn't have a retro kit for my car. I find that hard to believe but that is what I was told. It can be XM or Sirrus.

    Thanks....
  • aciampiaciampi Posts: 66
    I have just purchased a used 01 740 and was wondering if someone could help me in respect with the door locks. I remember in my 2000 740 when I turned off the ignition the doors would automatically unlock yet with my 01 this does not happen. Is there a way for it to be programmed? Or is this just something BMW discontinued? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • I just checked into this yesterday for my 2002 745i. The kids at the radio specialty shop AND the parts and service guys at the local BMW dealership all say it CAN'T be done by integrating XM or Sirius into the I-Drive display unit.

    I was very surprised, though, when one of the installers let me try one of those XM hand-held units (kind of resembles an I-POD) with an FM modulator built in. It worked really well over the BMW's FM radio. Even though the radio unit is in the BMW's trunk, I got perfect reception, and this particular unit allowed you to choose from about 5 or 6 FM stations to escape interference. I had assumed the interior FM modulator wouldn't work in a 7-series, but since it worked so well, I think I'll go that route, just hiding power and antenna wires the best I can.

    Good luck. Please post here if you figure out a way to send XM to I-Drive in a pre-2004 7-series
  • kp2kp2 Posts: 2
    When I open my trunk with the remote or from inside the car, the lock does a few extra revolutions and ends up stopping in the worng position. So I am unable to shut the trunk until I've pressed the remote button a few extra times, so the locking mechanism ends up in the correct position. Has anyone had this problem and know how I can fix it? I don't want to take it to the dealership and spend hundreds of dollars on a seemingly minor problem. Thanks!
  • lobdelllobdell Posts: 9
    Has anyone had experience with Warranty Direct for an extended warranty for a 2001 740il?
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Posts: 10,896
    Are you a current S-Class owner or 7-Series owner who is considering switching to an S-Class for your next purchase? If so, a reporter would like to speak with you about the new version of the S-Class and whether or not you would consider buying it. If you would be interested in speaking with this reporter, please reply to Pam Krebs, Edmunds.com PR, at pkrebs@edmunds.com with your name, daytime phone number and the best time to reach you. Please respond by Wednesday, June 29. Thank you.”

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  • rayden1rayden1 Posts: 4
    I had warranty direct too, and had issues with them. They were very picky about paying for certain components. I had suspension issues with my 2001 740IL and they did not cover any of the rear suspension components.
    Then the second time BMW misdiagnosed the problem, and it ended up at another BMW dealer and again my warranty did not pick up the tab, when it should have been covered.
    I personally think in my case I paid 2700 for nothing!
  • rayden1rayden1 Posts: 4
    I'm running 32 and 32 also on my 2001 740IL and have no issues really.
  • rayden1rayden1 Posts: 4
    I'm about to buy a 2002 745i with 12k miles on it. Any feedback on the car? I know it had some serious software issues but BMW extended the warranty to 100K and with the latest 17.1 software release alot of the issues have been resolved. Anyone else got any thoughts?
  • lobdelllobdell Posts: 9
    What brand tires are you using? How is the tire wear? Do you like them? I am running Michelin Pilot Sport A/Ss. The rear tires wear very badly in the center for any tire pressure above 30 psi. At the recommended 37 psi, I probably could not get more than about 10k miles. Pilot Sport A/Ss handle and stop very well, but the wear is considerable. Any thoughts?
  • rayden1rayden1 Posts: 4
    Yes the Michelin's wear faster. I ran through a set earlier.
    Now I've got The continental contisport contacts, and have had a little better luck. Not to great in wet weather.
    In the winter I'll throw the stock 16's with michelin mxv4 pilots on em.
  • smerlosmerlo Posts: 2
    My 1995 740IL chech engine light comes on intermittenty. Took it to he shop and the told me tha both Lambda sensors and their electronic box had to be changed. I agreed to the repair and after I took the car back the Check Engine light came back on again. After two more visit to the shop as the problem was not fixed I asked for the original parts to be put back.
    The problem continues, the engine runs great. Any suggestions on what the problem might be?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    Could be a gazillion things...aren't they reading the codes and interpreting them correctly? Sounds like they don't know what they are doing at the shop. Some mechanics have yet to understand that the code only identifies the SYSTEM or CIRCUIT giving the problem. A code for a sensor might mean that the sensor is getting a signal, not that it is itself bad. I think this is what happened to you.

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  • smerlosmerlo Posts: 2
    Thanks for your response. It makes sense. I will take the car to the local dealer hoping it knows what he is doing. By theway the weather temperature went down, from 35 celsius to 25 And the light does not come off anymore.
  • simcaddysimcaddy Posts: 1
    Anything special about the maintanence for BMWs? I remember a friend was complaining that he could not do oil changes at regular shops because those shops could not reset the warning lights after the oil change or brake pads change.

    Is it still true that owners have to take cars to dealer for all the maintanence? like the $100+ oil change. I hope things have changed somewhat. Thanks for your comments.
  • jadeedukejadeeduke Posts: 4
    I see they have modified the idrive for the 06 model 750. I'm in limbo between the GS430 and 745-750. I have seen all the writings about the idrive causing some problems for some people,I was just wondering have all the issues been worked out since the earlier versions?

    I never been a big fan of gps systems. Do you need it for idrive to be complete? :
  • jadeedukejadeeduke Posts: 4
    I'm glad to hear that! I am looking at one 04.....745il and that is good to hear. I'm not an electronic guru but some of the stuff I read seems like I need a degree in idrive to get it to work. Have you had any hang ups on anything?
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    I simpy read the manual once and all was simple with the iDrive; other than the navigation which I had to review one extra time. Once done that was it and never looked back.

    Some options you never visit more than once and the rest are simple to use. There are plenty of 'old-fashioned' knobs and dials for the day-to-day stuff. To this day I just can't understand all the noise over iDrive because anyone with two brain cells touching could figure it out.

    The car is amazing in every way.

    JR
  • jadeedukejadeeduke Posts: 4
    Cool because I really like the 7 over the gs430 but I'm not trying to be too stubborn if everyone is saying there is a flaw and the gs will not be in the shop as much as the 7. I will go and drive it this weekend. I have been putting that off cause I know I will like it. Have you had to put on more tires yet? Can you get 50k on a set or is that dreaming? I heard it was hard on tires???
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    It's not the figuring out that bugs people JR it's the inconvenience of using it.

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  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    Originals are at 18K now and I suspect that 35-40 is the best you'll do on the 18's. If you go bigger it will likely be less mileage per set.

    JR
  • rowlandjrowlandj Posts: 254
    To each their own. There are redundant switches and steering wheel controls for the stuff used regularly so again I just don't see the inconvenience factor of the iDrive.

    JR
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,116
    It's distracting when you are driving I think.

    Or perhaps if I may quote a friend---it is technology to no useful purpose.

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  • Hi,

    I recently had a battery replaced at the dealership. After taking the car back home and out to dinner, the car started acting up. Several check engine lights came on, the radio wouldn't work, and the navigation screen would come on and off intermittently.

    After taking the car back to the dealership, the service manager said that the code must not have been punched in correctly. They re did the code, and as I got into the car to go back home, the car had the same problems. lights on in the dash, radio not working all the time as well as the nav. screen.

    I left the car at the dealership for a couple of days, and they got all of the check engine lights to stay off.

    Now when I start the car, the steering wheel may not come down on it's own as it should, the radio may not come on, or even the screen may not come on.

    The steering is also tight sometimes on first start up when these other problems are going on.

    Any ideas???

    Thanks!
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