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BMW 7-Series 2006 and earlier

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Comments

  • gteach26gteach26 Posts: 576
    For most cars I've noticed that to program the "revolving code" type openers you have to first program the garage remote to one of the buttons on the car, then go up to the opener itself and press a little black button that turns on a flashing red light next to it (the black button is usually hidden next to the light bulb on the opener). While that red light is flashing (around 15 seconds till it stops) you have to press the button you just programmed on the car from one to five times until the garage door opens or closes.

    Sounds complicated I know, but pretty easy once you've done it a couple of times.

    I hope this helps.. good luck.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    It's enormously complicated, and sometimes tough to do alone, ladders required and all, but I can testify, it does work. I have 2 garages, and both are programmed in. What I can't get to work, is the gate to the community button. I guess it's because I can't get to the rotating code button on the opener. But my niece has her Lincoln LS programmed to open her gate where she lives...... I gave up on the gate.
  • gteach26gteach26 Posts: 576
    I know we're veering out of 7 series talk but just a quick note on opening gates... I had a similar problem with my community gate.. it turns out I had to change the battery on the clicker to get a "stronger" signal to the homelink system in the car.. now it opens just fine. Also, depending on the system, many times you might have to continuously hold down the homelink button and get REAL close to the gate to open it.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I may give 'er another go.
  • Interested in 95 740i with 240k at 6,500.00 is there anything I should be looking out for, and is this a good deal? Thanks
  • Miles are too high. I'd bail on that one. One major repair and you are in the car double the money. Statistically at least, the car has reached the end of its life. If it's the world's cleanest and you simply must have it no matter what, offer about $4,000 tops. It's too high priced for that mileage. You'd be better off paying $10K and getting something with "normal miles", around 120K.
  • Friend is selling a 92 750il with 140,000 miles. In good shape, well maintained, regular service. Am I crazy to even consider, regardless of purchase price?
  • I am trying to decide betweeen 745i and A8 base versions. New lease in area for 745 with no options is $789 for 36months, 10000 miles, nothing down, taxes/title not included. Any thoughts on the 2 cars or the lease. Thanks
  • carnaughtcarnaught Posts: 1,569
    It's going to cost $28.4K+ to drive the car for 3 years. + taxes and fees. Considering the car's depreciation, etc., it doesn't sound like a great deal to me.
  • davieboy1davieboy1 Posts: 14
    Thanks for the answer. The idrive and previous posts on the 745i bother me. Does anyone have any thoughts about the A8 or another car for a sedan to replace an suv
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,637
    What about a 5 series BMW? the 528i of a few years past is an awfully nice car.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Q45?
    XJ8?
    S500?
  • f1buickf1buick Posts: 45
    I own a 1993--almost identical car. You are not crazy, but I wouldn't every pay more than $6000. At 140k you'll be getting a complex car with a lot of miles and, potentially, many long-term parts that are due for replacement. 140k, for example, is on the tail end of the tranny lifespan in that car.

    I think there are 3 types of people who own cars like this:

    1. Those who lease them new and under warranty

    2. Those who buy them out of warranty, thinking they are getting a great deal, but who then find out that maintenance can be pricy and try to sell them

    3. Those hardy souls who do all their own maintenance and repairs, and end up with a world-class auto for cheap.

    I'm in the latter category. My car actually is pretty darned reliable for an 11 year-old, but when it does falter, it is not easy to work on.
    If your a hot-rodder who loves to tinker, these cars are nirvana. If you like Honda Accords just fine and are only considering the 750 because the price sounds low and you're curious about having a BMW, stay away.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The S430 just went way up on my list today. At least as nice inside as the 7 - with no I-drive.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
  • F1Buick, thanks for the nice three part typology of 7 Series owners (the buy it/lease it/dump it in three years crowd; the guy who gets who in way over his pretentious head on a used Bimmer he can't afford to keep up, and the small coterie of Do It Yourself types).

    But how about the canny guy who zips in to buy a CPO 7 Series for somewhere in the high 30's (because of the high depreciation) and then dumps it years later at 99,000 miles when the CPO warranty runs out? Didn't he beat the system? Or is the CPO Warranty essentially a come on and not comparable to the new car warranty?
  • michaelmichael Posts: 3
    Thanks for the insight. 12 cylinders might be 4 to 6 too many for a guy who drives 6000 miles a year
  • designodesigno Posts: 14
    After owning my S430 for a horrifying two years, I want to get rid of it ASAP.

    My main concern is that I have heard reports that a refreshed 7 Series sedan is comming relatively soon; seen claims from as early as late this year to 2005.

    I would like to take delivery of a new sedan sometime late this year. Should I wait it out for the 2005 model or just get the '04? (I am worried that because it will be a refreshed model, there will be software/electrical bugs, as opposed to the '04 model, which has been out for two years).

    Any input would be great! (FYI: Although I enjoy the BMW the most, I am also considering the Audi A8L, Jaguar Vanden-Plas, and Mercedes S430 (hopefully it will be better!)

    Thanks.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,637
    Well if that "refreshment" includes styling, I think I would wait, because if it is "cleaned up" and it is popular, then the 04 models will depreciate more rapidly than normal.
  • I had a chance to see the huge auto classsified section in the LA Times over the weekend. It beats everything else in the US combined! (E.G., if you combine the used car ads of the Boston Globe, Washington Post, NY Times, etc. you still wouldn't have the LA Times used car lineage.) Anyway, I've long hoped that I could get into a used '02 745 late this fall for around 40K. I may be (slightly) wrong. The 01 7 Series in the LA Times were at 43K or so, asking. The '00 7 Seriese were at 35K or so, asking.

    Even so, if this is a good guide, it looks like I can pick up a 745 next April for the target price and even get a CPO unit. (How else to buy one of these?). I happen to like the regular wheelbase series (do you really need the iL to carry around a gym bag?). Does anyone think that the iL commands significantly more resale than a non iL or is it a non-issue? Even if one was going to get a set of snow tires on dedicated wheels for winter and make the tire size difference between the two wheelbases a moot point, the larger tire/wheel package on the iL must hydroplane more and less suitable to foul weather?

    In any case, I figure that with the 30K I saved over MSRP, I could hire a good looking programmer to check me out on I drive for the first week or so.
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