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Chevrolet Cavalier

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  • Email me at beej@desupernet.net if you want to talk avbout the cavalier I just bought.
  • malibu99malibu99 Posts: 305
    My girlfriend wants to buy a new Cavalier. What is a reasonable price to pay for a 99 or 2000 base with auto tranny?
  • These numbers are from memory - I was lookigna t a LS which I think was 13,800, the LS is an extra 1400, - and I think that leaves you with a manual 2.2L engine. Auto is an extra $300 about. That was with th a 1500 rebate. Very rough figures. I ended up with a LS with an upgraded engine for only 405 and the sound system for 230. (I took the LS for the tilt and cruise, so I was not looking at base models)
  • malibu99malibu99 Posts: 305
    Thank you for the info. I'm helping 2 people car shop, girlfriend and roommate. going nuts here.
  • ramonramon Posts: 825
    I love helping someone car shop! Helped my ex gilfriend car shop not too long ago too. But her dad went out and bought her a Corolla without her approval. I was quite pissed as he paid alot for an econobox! With all the options it crept right to a Base Camry price!
  • cavokcavok Posts: 1
    Just a little feedback on the the new Y2K Cavalier. I have read many pros and cons, and would like to give my 2 cents worth. I purchased mine preyear late November, and can't be happier. I own the LS Sedan, and for the extras received along with a reasonable price you can't beat it. 4W antilock brakes, electronic tracking control, anti theft system, a/c, etc, the standard options in the car's competition class would put their price well above chevy's pricing. I have already put 5000 miles on the car without problem one. Engine noise did not seem bad for the size of the car, during quick acceleration it is noticable, but quiets down at cruising speed. I have not noticed any dash noise (still pretty new though) and wind noise is about the same as you would find in the Focus, Corrola, etc. Smoothness of the ride has improved with this model, and quick turns are not like riding a rail, but adequate responsivness. I am in Maine, and experiencing sub 0 temps these days (brrrrrr) and lots of snow driving, and the little car has not missed a beat. The new computer controlled traction control is great in the snow, adjusting the spin of the tires relative to the road conditions. Dash is layed out ok, except if you have a cup in the front holders, access to the heater controls is a bit of a pain withour removing the cup. Still that is a minor irritant overall. I am 6 ft tall, and have plenty of head room.

    Too many people are gaging the car against the old one which did have it's downfalls. Maybe I am the lucky one, but so far so good. For the extras you get in the LS model compared with the prices of others in it's class, its not a bad little car!! BTW, I am getting 32 road, and 25 mpg city on a consistant basis, matching what is boasted on the sticker.

    Happy Shopping!! :)
  • I love my husky Cavalier in city driving. It takes the bumps really well and feels solid. The 2.4L with automatic is a screamer -- incredible torque, very responsive. The interior materials LS are just fine. Can't beat it for the money.
  • 216591216591 Posts: 5
    I recently sold my '95 cavalier to a friend. The car is in the shop having the engine taken apart upon suspicion of a defective head gasket. We had this replaced once at about 20K. I recall receiving a letter before I sold it (6 months ago) stating the head gasket would have an extended warranty on it - not a recall- because of so many defectives. I am not sure where the letter is. The dealer is acting like he never heard of it. Anyone remember the letter or know where I could find such info? She tried calling GM customer service and they were no help.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I saw information about extended warranties in an issue of Consumer Reports Magazine. I cannot remember what issue it was in (has the words "Luxury For Less" in yellow on the front page along with a silver car). Try to get a copy of it www.consumerreports.org. Also, tell the dealer to check the Service Bulletins on the Cavalier for you. I think it would serve you better to go to another dealer because the present one sounds like a real piece of work (or something!). Good luck.
  • 216591216591 Posts: 5
    Thanks for the help. I did find the service bulletin on the web for the defective head gasket. The dealer still said they didn't have it. When she mentioned talking to GM about it they 'found' it and did the work free of charge. They were trying to charge her $1400. The dealer said they were going to have to do alot of paperwork to get reimbursed from gm. Do you think they would not inform someone of the Service Bulletin to avoid paperwork?
  • 216591216591 Posts: 5
    Thanks for the help. I did find the service bulletin on the web for the defective head gasket. The dealer still said they didn't have it. When she mentioned talking to GM about it they 'found' it and did the work free of charge. They were trying to charge her $1400. The dealer said they were going to have to do alot of paperwork to get reimbursed from gm. Do you think they would not inform someone of the Service Bulletin to avoid paperwork?
  • floridianfloridian Posts: 219
    216591: Just another example of the slezy way most dealers do business. They count on people not being informed and they will use ANY slimey, low life trick to make a few bucks. All makes, all models, makes no difference. Why do you think that car dealers are held in the lowest level of trust against all other professionals. When you get lower than lawyers then it's really bad.

    When having ANY dealings with car dealers watch your back and keep your hand on your wallet !!

    Floridian
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    If you want to talk about Cavalier problems, I am the right one to talk to about them. I had a 1996 (bought used) for a total of 3 months. In those three months, the car was in the shop 8 TIMES!!! From the front strut to the muffler (twice!) to the leaky power steering pump and squeaky interior parts, i was disgusted! I finally got rid of it, but had to pay $3000 (I was upside down on the trade value) to do so. I will NEVER buy another GM vehicle (or American car) as long as I live. Also, mine used to stall for no reason at all. After having almost 3 accidents in heavy traffic, there was still no fix. They reprogrammed the engine computer, checked the transmission and everything, to no avail. Glad I am finally rid of it. You all should do the same.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    www.lemonaidcars.com

    This site shows "secret" warranties the companies do not want you to know about. Just go to the site and click on "secret warranties watch". There are ways to get new engines in your Cavaliers, free paint jobs, and more. Check it out and pass it on to EVERYONE you can! Together, we consumers can make these car companies treat us right or make them go bankrupt trying!
  • Am considering a '99 or '00 Cavalier with auto trans. as a tow car behind a motor home. The Cavalier is one of few with auto trans. rated by manufacturer as suitable for towing. Would be interested in learning of others experience using the Cavalier as a tow car. Am also considering the Pontiac Sunfire. jamccl@aol.com
    Thank you ...
  • My mother and father have a motorhome and they tow my 98 Cavalier LS. The 4 speed transmission is the only Cavalier that can be towed. Plus before you start towing the car, there is a fuse that you need to remove. Check your owners manual for the right fuse to pull.
  • Forgot one thing. In 1998, when my car was new. My father has these magnetic brake lights that mount onto the trunk lid. He did not use any felt pads underneath the magnetic brake lights which left circle scratch marks on the trunk lid of my brand new car.
  • Thank you for the comments. They are much appreciated and I will use them as I evaluate both cars. The Cavalier appears to be the better car for towing. Thanks again ...
  • Just wanted to put my two cents worth in here. I just bought a 2000 Cavy LS sedan w/4 spd. auto and the 2.2L engine for a vehicle for my daughters to get around in last Nov. I must say, the more I drive it, the more I like it. It now has 7K miles on it and I think that its the perfect vehicle for my girls. In fact, my oldest is a Freshman at Florida State and she is buying it off us in April. When that happens, I won't hesitate to get another one. There is some little rattles here and there that I have noticed, but they are only when its cold out, and you hit pretty good sized bump. The traction control and ABS are nice statndard safety features that have worked excellent so far. I have the pleasure of knowing the owner of Chevy dealer who got a new Cavy for his daughter who rolled it 3 times with three other kids in the car. All four were wearing their seat belts and all four walked away from the accident. The air bags deplayed as designed by the way. The engine does get a bit noisy at the upper end of the RPM range but its really short term until you get to cruising RPM. I haven't noticed any of the problems that I seen posted here but I will certainly keep you updated as the miles pile up.
  • andy61andy61 Posts: 4
    For those who want to see my previous note go back to post #83. Unfortunately I have not received any advise on how to fix a stiff gas pedal, possibly nobody knows how to fix it or never had such problem. Dealer still refusing to acknowledge the problem that still persisting. BTW dealer had no problems replacing marker lights last winter as they got moisture inside and I thought the problem was over, however same problem I got this winter. I believe GM has problem with it as well, and it is no fun to get electrical shortage in your car. Also in a winter time (btw I am in Toronto,Canada) moisture condensation is behind the glass covering gages, but dealer says there is no fix for it. As you can imagine there is already a film build up on that glass even if moisture evaporates.
    Also I have a question about maintenance. Dealer is trying to convince me that a caliper service is needed every 20K. They did a general safety inspection and no problem was found, brakes are also perfect (75% of lining remaining after 20K), however dealer still recommending some caliper service that would cost me about $80 or $100 I can not find a reason for. Can anyone explain me how would I know if that service is necessary or not. Thank you in advance for help.
  • sunfgtsunfgt Posts: 40
    I have a 96 Sunfire GT (2.4L, 4 speed auto), supposedly the same as a Z-24. I also have had problems with a stiff gas pedal, but not in the same way. When I left the car for anywhere from 15 minutes - 2 hours and then drove it again, I got this stiff pedal business. For shorter or longer times, there is no problem. Fortunately, this stiffness isn't as bad as what you've experienced. Once I can push the pedal past the stuck point, and drive around a little bit, then it's fine. Haven't bothered to get the dealer to look at it; my warranty's up and they like charging for everything, and I tend to always leave the car for many hours before driving again. It still is a bit of a safety problem in areas like parking lots, because once I get past the initial stiffness, the force of my foot send the pedal further than I like, resulting in an unwanted surge of acceleration.

    As for moisture behind the instrument panel cover, I would say that it is more likely due to poor design for extreme temperatures rather than excess humidity that is to blame. In Vancouver, it's a lot more humid, but at least it's warmer. It appears that GM designers didn't design their cars for the rigours of Canadian winters
  • andy61andy61 Posts: 4
    Thank you for your note, I really appreciate it. At least I know that my stiff gas pedal is not my imagination since you have similar problem.
  • gba2michgba2mich Posts: 22
    I might think that either the throttle linkage is binding, or the throttle body needs to be cleaned......
  • sunfgtsunfgt Posts: 40
    Is it possible for me to make a simple check on the throttle linkage or throttle body myself without having to go to the dealer, or is it too complicated for an amatuer to do?
  • gba2michgba2mich Posts: 22
    disconnect the accelerator linkage from the lever on the throttle body, and then move the throttle body lever by hand...if it is stiff, binds, or seems to catch, you should start by having the throttle body cleaned (best done if removed--note that removal of the throttle body will require a new gasket, a wire brush, and a can or so of carb cleaner.....fairly easy to do...so long as you don't make any adjustments to the linkage itself...
  • andy61andy61 Posts: 4
    Thank you for your input. I still have a feeling the problem is not a throttle system, because:
    1. after dealer replaced throttle cable and it is for sure not binding the problem remains (or I should say as per paper work it is stated that the dealer replaced the cable but I have no way to know whether it was done or not, may be he just completed paper work and got coverage by warranty - you can not trust these guys).
    2. on my third visit to the dealer he showed me how to move throttle body lever by hand and it is moving quite easy
    3. stiffness is not constant, now I kind of notice a pattern: in the morning when engine is cold the gas pedal is always fine for about 5-10 min, then it becomes gradually stiff. If I go shopping and leave car parked from 30 min to about 2 hours, and drive it again the pedal is fine again but now it is fine for a long time, often for as long as I may drive.
    4. when pedal is stiff, not only me but even a passenger on the front seat could feel that engine becomes kind of stubborn and refuses to run and accelerate smoothly
    All of the above brings me to a conclusion that the problem is with engine or some other systems controlling the flow of gas or air to the engine and as the result we feel how engine is roaring plus there is a response back to a gas pedal. By the way the gas pedal feels different when engine is not running - so it has two way communication as we can influence the engine and it replies back to us. Or it might be a matter of some other components being warmed up or not.
  • delliottdelliott Posts: 5
    Has anyone had the problem of squeaky or noisy hubcaps? Our plastic hubcaps make a terrible noise. Is there any cure for this on our 1996 Cavalier?
  • dweezildweezil Posts: 271
    Some of the references i made about the cavalier were posted in the coupe section on Cavaliers, such as the safety, etc. It would be worth it for someone considering a new or used one to read those postings too. Am averaging a minimum of 22 in mixed street and highway and up to 35 on freeway alone. Ive kept records of every drop of gas Ive put in it, since day one. Does anyone know of an after market under hood pad.While I much prefer the sound of the 2.2 over the Iron Duke 2.5, as i said previously in a city this noisy, I want as much quiet as possible. The engine isnt that loud or unpleasant, I would just like more sound insulation.I dont care for the hollow sound of my 99 and if any one out there has any suggestions on placing insulation or other after market sound deadening materials Id love to hear your suggestions. Its a great all around car, but Ive got my own fetishes.
  • 216591216591 Posts: 5
    Need some advice here. I was just told my '95 cavalier with 75K needs a new engine. A month ago I had the alternator and head gasket replaced. Besides this the car has needed three new transmissions. The dealer is estmating the cost at $3500. Should I fight this repair? Could the previous repair for gaskett and alternator have messed up something else? What do you do in a case like this? I just want to get it running and sell it. Should I ask for a rebuilt engine? HOw much should that be?
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    Check on the website:

    http://www.lemonaidcars.com and go to secret warranties.

    There are several for the Cavalier including new head gaskets and the like. It may save you some money, so check into it!
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