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Chevrolet Cavalier

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Comments

  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    >>The cars did have problems, 95-96 2.2L engine did have a head gasket issue. But a head casket job on those cars is cake and can be done in a little more time then it takes to change a timing belt on an import. <<

    I see you have done the gasket. I did my 94 2.2 and it cost me $15 for the head gasket and oil and filter, 40K later when I traded it still no leaks. I'm not a believer in bolt replace at gasket change, I have done too many with out replacing the bolts. I get into a lot of arguments over reusing the bolts from techs.
    :)
  • lexielexie Posts: 45
    if it is indeed such a great car. :lemon:
  • gmoudygmoudy Posts: 67
    The same stupid reason that they stopped making the Camaro.
  • nickpsnickps Posts: 18
    I own three Cavaliers. They have a dated appearance but are very reliable. My 1996 Cavalier has 184,000 miles on it. I have not had any really major repairs done to it. All my Cavaliers have been good to me. They are very reliable. They are also very affordable. I am very disappointed they are discontinuing the model.
  • venus537venus537 Posts: 1,443
    "believe that is mostly the result of the brainwashing that occurs after years of media inattention, and finally abuse, that is usually given to any proven design that doesn't give the media very much new to talk about from year to year, over a long lifespan"

    That is Priceless! What the heck, lets bring back the escort.
  • lexielexie Posts: 45
    Looks like it is finally catching up with the US automakers..... :P
  • Thanks Chevygrl28 for the suggestion. This miss is intermittent. Generally runs good 98% of the time but when it runs bad, it runs bad. I don't think it is the fuel.
    I hooked up a timing light to each plug wire and notice that the miss is on #2 and sometimes on #3. Replaced coil but no change. I have heard suggestions that it is the DIS module on which the coils ride. Any clue? thanks again for your suggestion and I will look into it.
  • My check engine light is on and the computer you plug into the car says that the crankshaft sensor is going out and I could use a little bit of written help from someone who knows how to replace it since the Haynes and the Chilton are not very creditable books so if you know please help me out it is a 98 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 liter four cylinder
  • krismkrism Posts: 11
    Its located on the rear of the engine about 5 inches to the left of the oil filter. There are 2 sensors there right nest to each other, the first and closest to the oil filter is the crank position sensor, the one next to it is the knock sensor.

    Jack the car up or put it on a lift, if you have the manual transaxle then replacing it is easy. Auto tansaxles will be a PITA because the auto is much larger and takes up a lot of room down in that area.
  • bdbbdb Posts: 1
    I have an auto and I can't figure out how to get at the sensor - what's the best way?
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Not sure about the best way, removing the passenger side inner fender liner may help, just giving you an idea. :)
  • i have a 1995 chevrolet cavalier rs and it has 195, 000 miles on it current to date. it needs to have an exhaust system replaced and i was wondering how much it cost and if anybody know how much or hwere to find a new engine to put in the car. i like because its small and easy to park with great pcik up.
  • My check engine stays on & went to have it checked out & got the P1870 code which
    is transmission slipping. Had it checked to see if it had any metal shavings & there
    were none & even had the screen changed with new oil. The car has over a $100,000
    miles BUT it's running really good now that I had the screen changed because it was
    slipping a little bit.

    The problem is that I can't pass inspection because of that sensor box. I have a buddy
    that knows cars really good & told me if I can find out where the sensor box is located
    he could get rid of the light. In hopes I can pass state inspection. He said that the
    manufactuerers do a really good job these days of hiding those boxes.
  • I figured this Cavalier board would be full of reliability debates. ;)
    But can anyone help me out here? Does anyone know where the cabin air filter is in a '94 Cavalier, if there even is one? I know in a lot of cars it seems to be behind the glove box, but does anyone know where it could be in my car? It's never been replaced, and I use the vent a lot, so I'd really appreciate some help. Thanks, guys. :)
  • I have owned 2 Cavalier LS (1996 & 1999) and I had this problem and typically it was that the gas cap wasn't fully tightened. I suggest you check that and then restart the car. It should go away after doing that. If not, take it back to the dealer as it would most likely fall under your warranty.
  • For the past year I have been driving around unable to see the odometer as the LCD lighting is no more. Has anyone else experienced this? I refuse to repair it because the dash needs to be removed and shipped to be fixed so that the mileage is recorded.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    That won't work, the light has to come on when the key is turned to run to see if the light functions. They all ready thought of the light being disabled. :(
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    None that I know of, owned one for 120K. :)
  • d3vil_21d3vil_21 Posts: 1
    For the introduction of the Cobalt, The Cobalt keeps the cavalier alive with is engine. It uses the same 2.2L Ecotec with 145Hp. Unless you get the cobalt SS, that has a 2.0L Ecotec with an Eaton M62 Supercharger, putting out 205 Hp.

    Its still a beautiful new addition to the GM Family i think.
  • newbirdnewbird Posts: 1
    Hi everyone, I have a quick question for you. I have a 1997 Chevy Cavalier Convertible that I recently had work done on. As soon as I drove it off the lot, I experienced the same problems and the problem persists after visiting there again and having more work done. Please, someone help.
    Whenever the car is at a stop and I press the accelerator, the engine stalls 1-3 times and then starts going. It doesn't happen all the time, but enough to be concerned. It starts to pull, then decides it's not going to, then pulls, and sometimes repeats this process. No matter how slowly I apply the accelerator, the car usually jerks forcefully. It has gone from almost being dead to spinning the wheels. Twice it has even gone dead on me when I started to accelerate. Periodically (every few weeks) the check engine light will come on, stay on for a week or so, and then go off.
    The car did this before, but hadn't done it in 3 years. The last time it was fixed, the guy casually mentioned two wires that were going to an inoperable security device which was apparently applying the incorrect voltage and causing problems with another part of the system. The problem abated after that guy fixed it...until now when the guys likely re-attached the two wires without thinking twice about it. Does anyone know where these wires would likely be located, how to tell them apart from other wires, and/or how much it would cost to pay a mechanic to figure it out?
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