Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevrolet Cavalier



  • Hi Ddoates, i was searching the forums, first off i cannot believe how many people this has happened to, i am really surprised their isn't a re-call on it to get them replaced.

    I did searching came up with this post number: 1362, very good reading up on this problem.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You're right, that's a great post - thanks for finding it and giving us the post number. Here's a direct link to it: hoyahenry, "Chevrolet Cavalier" #1362, 16 Jun 2003 8:38 pm
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    You are talking about the fan speeds right? You need a new blower resistor, it's under the glove box and behind the fan motor. Costs about $30 for the part, labor I don't know, i do all my own work. It took me under an hour, one half hour shop rate should cover it. :)
  • Ok i installed the new module, but for some reason it still doesnt come on, i even unplugged battery for awhile after i installed it, any other ideas or why not coming on?
  • keith13keith13 Posts: 5
    In this case the weep hole is your friend,it's purpose is to let any water that gets in a properly designed intake system(Which Ecotech system is not) drain out. The hole is too small and can become plugged up with the small trash that all systems suck up, I drilled mine a little bigger. The silicone was used to seal the joint between the airbox and the piece inside the fender, the neck on the piece in the fender is to short to allow the air box a proper seal. The two screws are used to hold the airbox in place . I still lean towards the wires or the cap as being your problem, It could be running a little crappy most of the time and real crappy when it rains.
  • I found that also the connector was fried! if the resistor blew then the connector fried, i also had a fuse blow when my alternator fried as well, but all good and working.
  • 3thumbs3thumbs Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Chevy Cav. Broke down in the So. Cal heat this week. Had it towed to the dealer. They "diagnosed" the problem as a clogged catalytic converter. The car is now running fine....after $700. The part was over $500. Am I correct to assume that I was royally screwed?
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    No, not for a factory part, not sure if it's available aftermarket.
  • yea aftermarket only runs $80-100 with $20 shipping, IMO way overcharged on that one.
  • 3thumbs3thumbs Posts: 2
    Prior to installing the $570 part, I asked the service tech at the Chevy Dealer if there were any alternatives. He said that there are some "universal catalytic converters" that run about $300-$400 and do not have a good track record. The more that I check out what is available on the internet, the more it seems that I got taken. There appears to be a host of catalytic converters for a fraction of what I paid,,,and they are not "universal". Do I have any legal grounds to fight this? Am I being naive to even think that the service tech could have attempted to locate a $250 part? I know that dealers often sell a part at a jacked up price but a 500% increase is really disgusting. The tech informed me that this is the only part that would work effectively without risking future problems. I really don't want to sweep this under the rug and forget about it.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    You went in for repairs, you were quoted a price, you had the option to refuse and go else where. If the work was done without your ok you have a case.

    There is some truth that all aftermarket converters will not work on all cars, when OBD2 came out they had more sensitive sensors and more of them. OBD2 has pre and post converter O2 sensors, if the converter is not in the proper range for the sensors a O2 sensor check engine light will come on, as the tech was telling you.
  • greypelegreypele Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 with the factory stereo, and about a month ago the sound started cutting out (especially when I went over bumps). This happened more and more frequently, usually because of bumps but not by any means always, it will occasionally cut out for no reason. The strange part is that when the sound eventually comes back, it fades back up. Well, I've never done any kind of car or electrical work, but I figured that the problem was from the connections to the head unit. So I followed a wonderful manual by lTeam Forward Motion that outslines dash romovial step by step (oh why do you make it so hard to get to the stereo chevy?).

    To make a long story short, the connections look fine. What else could it be? I haven't found anything on the net about this problem. Any ideas? I must say- visit this site if you ever need to remove the dash, seats, or door pannels.

    Other than that, I love my car. I take a lot of long road trips and haven't had trouble.
  • warrobwarrob Posts: 1
    Any body have any idea. Checked vac lines cleaned throttle body. Battery needs jumped because ?repeated starting and stopping while checking. Ran fine until accident. Headlight and bumper repaired. Also checked wiring connectors.
  • Hey all
    Was wondering if the small bottles of Dupli-Color touchup paint are good to use for painting in the Z24 lettering on the trim? Also, what paint preps should be done, and how mant coats are needed?
    Thanks for any info
  • I just had the crappy news given to me that to fix my water pump and replace the timing in my LS (I have the 2.4L), it's going to cost me about $1189. There is only one person around where I live in Virginia who would even touch that engine to do it. Is this normal everywhere? I even had one guy practically laugh at me because he said there is no way in heck that he would take that much time to even bother with it. I am pretty thankful though, because my car has around 223,000 miles on it and that is the only thing wrong with it (take that naysayers). I am considering putting it out to pasture when I am able to financially afford a whole new car. Maybe a Cobalt. Haven't heard anything bad about them yet LOL!!!! (key word-yet :) )So anyway, has anyone else had this issue with their Cavalier???
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Well the best thing about the 2.4 is it's not made anymore, the pump job for the miles seems about right. Many a 2.4 has been ruined by mistimed cams during pump change. :)
  • alternatoralternator Posts: 545
    The Chilton Repair Manual for 1995-2000 Cavaliers does not mention any need for re-timing when replacing the water pump on the 2.4L engine.

    It does call for removing, and later reinstalling, the timing chain "tensioner" --- but that should not effect the timing. Am I missing something here?
  • No, you're not missing anything. My timing chain also needed replacement due to excessive wear and tear on it, not just because I was getting the water pump replaced :)
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    Even without removing the chain it can get out of time, there is a tool to lock the cams, not many DIY have the tool. Do a google and you will see what I mean. :)
  • Hi everyone, new to the board (but have been lurking for quite some time).

    I own a '95 Cavalier that has had a new cluster put in (broken speedometer). When I got home, I noticed that the odometer was off by 2,006 miles (higher). Should I just leave it alone or have my GM mechanic have it sent out to be reset?


    '95 Cavalier (infamous 2.2L, 3 speed LS sedan) bought in December of 2004 with a little over 64,000 on it (now has a little over 67,000mi). Owned by a little old lady in Allentown (original owner). Very well maintained and 4 mechanics have told me that it was a real good deal and is in great shape (I still keep my eye on the head gasket).

    Since owning it, I've had a small hole in muffler soldered, coolant hoses replaced, valve cover gasket replaced, gave it 4 new BF Goodrich Traction tires, new gas filter and as stated above, a new speedometer "cluster". I don't think that's bad for a 10 year old car :) .
Sign In or Register to comment.