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Lincoln Town Car

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  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    Single exhaust was on our 82 and in quest of more horsepower a Crower camshaft was installed. Due to the computer's setting from the factory, it would not allow the camshaft to be of benefit. The one modification that did improve performance was when we twinned out the exhaust, not using another cat converter. Monroe air shocks were installed in the rear with the valve stem located in the middle of the rear valance. With 120 lbs of air, the rear was up a lot higher and we were getting a lot better mpg as the car was always going downhill. (just twin out the exhaust)
  • cats8cats8 Posts: 22
    do the lincoln brun oil if so email me at mkitty@inreach.com and tell me how fast the 2000 lincoln can go
  • rea98drea98d Posts: 982
    The Lincoln is equipped with a 4.6 litre engine, which doesn't usually use any oil, but if you put anything thicker than 10w30 in it, you will damage the engine and it will consume generous amounts of oil. Really the answer to that question depends on the specefic car you're looking at, and many times you can't tell for sure until after you've bought the car and driven it for a few thousand miles.
  • gkarggkarg Posts: 230
    This link is pretty cool. It is the "11/03: Lincoln Towncar vs. Lightning" link on the page I'm posting here:
    http://jwfisher.home.texas.net/default.htm

    It is what happens when one HECK of a bolt of Lightning hits a car and melts it. I couldn't believe the damage this thing sustained!
  • My folks are 4 generation Towncar Owners and have never been as disappointed with a car as they are with their newest 2000 Towncar.

    They finally got the moonroof they have been wanting for years. They are unable to use the moonroof due to the extremely bad 'buffetting'. Does anyone have a solution?

    The trunk is difficult to shut, requiring a hard slam. Gone are the 'auto closers' as in their previous models? Is this an option they might have overlooked?

    After several, frustrating visits to the dealership garage, we are unable to determine the cause of a very obvious pull to the left? One mechanic actually went so far as to adjust the steering wheel(?)... we took it back the next day to put it back where it belongs. They are lucky we have had a sense of humor about this whole situation.

    Things are mounting to the point that they want to trade towards a Grand Marquis. It has always been 'a Towncar or nothing' mentality.... well, no longer. In fact, I would not be surprised if they experiment with a Cadillac next time.

    I'm asking if there is anyone (other than our local dealer) whom we can get some 'service' from. Everything has been under warranty so money is not the issue, it is the inconvenience.

    Oh, I almost forgot to mention the front brake dust issue, the inadequate front cup holders and the continuous squeaky rear brakes. We've been told 'this is a normal occurence for some Lincolns'.......where do we go from here????

    Please, if you have advice, e-mail me at 'ru2going2@yahoo.com' and I will advise my folks.
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    What is there about the 2000 Towncar they like?
  • dbd34dbd34 Posts: 18
    to another Lincoln dealer. The problems you mention are not common, and should be swiftly and easily dealt with.

    1. The moonroof. The deflector appears to be misadjusted. I believe there is a service bulletin available at the dealer's instructing how to do this correctly.
    2. The steering. Not normal, or acceptable. Something must be very wrong. Clearly any competent shop should be able to clear this up. UNLESS the pull only occurs on a road with a severe crown. Even if its a defective tire, they should be able to pinpoint and fix quickly.
    3. Ditto the brakes. There is no reason for a squeak anywhere. It is possible they got glazed by improper break-in, but a good service person can tell the driver what to do, and what not to do (NEVER drive with the left foot on the brake, etc.)

    The trunk on every 1998-2000 TC I have driven is a two finger closer. It has an adjustment point. I found the old power closer to be of little or no use.

    Has this car been in a wreck? How many miles?

    Short answer: even if you have to drive an hour, find a better Lincoln dealer. They will probably even pick up the cost to travel, and offer a rental. All these problems are easily solvable. (Except front brake dust. NO car can avoid that)
  • Looked at a 95 Town Car, Cartier, loaded except for CD player and without padded roof. One owner, no dings or dents, no appearance of ever been hit or damaged in any way. 69,000 miles and dealer serviced at the proper intervals.Somewhat exceptional compared to other ones I have looked at recently. Asking price is $14,000. What do you think? Is it worth $12-12.5. By the way, the car drives very straight, no shimmy in front end or pulling to one side. Thanks in advance for responses.
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    IMO the asking price is a fair value for such a car. 69,000 is low miles and probably has replacement tires with less than 10,000 on them. The brake pads have been replaced, but the battery is probably original. Is it w/o stale cigarette or cigar odor? If the seller is in a "Sales Tax" state he would be better off trading it in as the tax is based on the cash difference rather than taking a lower price. By trading it in the seller could save up to $1,300.00 so I would not expect him to come down much off the asking price. Really clean Towncars of the Cartier class are very rare as compared to all of the Executives and Signatures out there. Go for it and enjoy your very good motorcar.
  • Thanks for the input! The car has a faint smell of cigarette smoke, which bothers me, and yes it is a non sales tax deal. Brakes amd tires are recent, so you are right on with your assessment. Thanks again.
  • lando2lando2 Posts: 12
    I just bought a 95 Presidential for $6500 (it was a repo) with 126k. No sunroof/cd but otherwise fully loaded. It rides great. Does anyone have any additional info regarding this model? (It has 'Signature Series' on the lower rear quarterpanels.)
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    perhaps somebody put some whipped cream and a cherry on a stock Signature and post labeled it a "Presidential". I just imagine it has a full vinyl top, gold package, dark tinted glass, WSW tires, and chrome wheel well rings. Oh yes, and chrome wheels. It should go another 126k so have fun.
  • lando2lando2 Posts: 12
    I have seen only one other (4-5 yrs ago) that was blu/blu with blu interior, gold package (It was more than I could afford...). This one has no gold pkg. but every thing else you mentioned. Would it be possible to install a factory CD or trunk-mounted unit? If so, how much would it cost?
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    For high fidelity response use a CD deck that is hard wired to the indash radio assembly.(There should be a female socket for the plug in.) When using the other kind, calling for a Frequency Modulator, you are limiting the high frequency to only about 14,000. Reason? The frequency modulator is a tiny transmitter sending the CD signal to and through your car's antenna into the amplifier section of the indash receiver, radio. I recommend you search the wrecking yards for the FACTORY unit that plugs into the back of your set. Have fun.
  • I am purchasing a 1991 Exec series TC. Does anyone know of any major problems with this model year? I know this is the first year they used the 4.6 in these. Are there any engine of Transmission issues that I need to be aware of?
    Thanks
  • cats8cats8 Posts: 22
    how fast do the 2000 lincoln can go. if you now email me at mkitty@inreach.com
  • Get off the "How Fast" topic...no one cares....
  • My recently purchased '96 Signature has what I consider excessive wind noise. The noise seems to come from the cowl area. The noise also seems to have gotten worse since the blend air door was replaced. Any advice/assistance would be appreciated.
  • pdiazpdiaz Posts: 2
    I have a great 1994 TC Signature (57K miles) with an intermittent problem starting the engine after it is hot (sometimes as little as 5-10 minutes after initial ignition and shut down). It cranks strong and long but will not restart (regardless of weather conditions) until it sits (cools?) for approximately 5-20 minutes and then starts as usual. This problem is beginning to happen more frequently and the dealer doesn't have a clue without the problem occuring while in their shop so they could run diagnostics. Are there known problems of this sort (Dave3003 in post 175 on this board had a similar problem on his 95' TC)?
    Any suggestions appreciated! Sensor related? Computer? Fuel Pump? Help!!!
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    Our T/C is a 94 Sig with 87,000 and no such experience, but I am under the impression that the computer can be made to reveal what happens from its memory. Having owned T/Cs for 20 years, I've come to know that the big city, large volume dealers have the more expensive diagnostic analyzers costing too much for the small dealer to depreciate due to very little use. Thus, take you car to a repair shop having the more sophisticated equipment. (Small dealers usually invest in only "console" types of analyzers and then gamble with hunches. SUN is a manufacturer of such equipment. Happy Day.
  • gkarggkarg Posts: 230
    Sounds like you could easily eliminate the Fuel Pump. When you get into the car, turn off everything...fan, radio, etc. Turn the key to the "on" position, but do not start. You should ALWAYS hear the fuel pump come on for about 3 seconds. If you don't hear the pump, then it is either the pump or relays/wiring to the pump.

    If you don't hear the pump. Have someone else turn the key on, and get your ear as close to the gas tank (without getting under the car) as you can. (A quiet area works best...not near a highway.)
  • Do the Lincoln Town cars have the same nonmetal intake manifolds that the Mercury Grand Marquis have. If they do, have they had similar problems?
  • Do the Lincoln Town cars have the same nonmetal intake manifolds that the Mercury Grand Marquis have. If they do, have they had similar problems?
  • rea98drea98d Posts: 982
    Yes ans yes. Even the heavy duty cop cars have plastic manifolds. Pull one off a 94-95 model 4.6 engine, and problem solved. Or get Ford to replace it when it breaks, with another plastic manifold. Then get Ford to replace it when it breaks again. and again. and again.
    When is ford ever gonna learn? They took a perfectly good 3.8 liter v-6, and let the bean counters mess it up putting cheap head gaskets on. Now they're doing the same with the 4.6 and cheap intakes! Ford needs to can some beans, IMHO!
  • lando2lando2 Posts: 12
    How do you program the 3-button garage opener?
    I haven't been able to find a reference(instructions) anywhere. Also, does anyone know how the ABS sensors operate on '95 T/C's? Is it a DIY fix? Thanks in advance._
  • dbd34dbd34 Posts: 18
    The 3-button universal remote is described in the owner's manual. Basically, you press and hold a button to be programmed, and when it blinks accordingly (I foget the exact pattern) you send a signal with the OEM remote unit. The car sender 'senses' this signal, and programs the button accordingly.
    If you don't have an owner's manual for your car, go get one. It explains a lot of things you absolutely need to know, especially about the radio/stereo, seats, computer, engine operation, air system, etc.
    I wouldn't touch the ABS system on any TC unless equipped with several factory service tools and manuals, and I've built complete autos from the ground up. It is not a DIY fix.
  • I was looking at a 1993 Lincoln Town Car Jack Nicklaus edition with 83,811 miles on it. I've never owned a Lincoln and wanted some input as to what I should be looking for, how reliable a car this is, They are asking about 7800 for the vehicle and wanted to know if this was a good value too. Thanks for any words of assistance
  • dbd34dbd34 Posts: 18
    Used Lincolns fare just as well, and usually better than their peers as older cars. Compared to Cadillacs, BMW, Mercedes, etc. they are very good vehicles on the used market. HOWEVER...

    Typically this class of automobile is a poor selection on the used market if you're looking for bang-for-the-buck. They are complex automobiles, with lots of accessories. Even the accessories are more complex in nature than less expensive cars. For example, the air conditioning systems are more complex in their operation than air conditioning on lesser cars. More complexity = higher repair cost due to parts availability, etc.

    If you're not concerned with fully functioning accessories like trip computers, temp control systems, etc. Then the foundation of the Lincoln is as durable as a pickup truck. It is as close to bulletproof as a sedan is going to get.

    I would expect an 83k mi. Town Car to be needing new fluids everywhere, all new rubber and vinyl hoses everywhere, and I'd closely inspect the brake system, cooling system, and fuel system.

    Depending upon the previous owner and available maintenance records, $7,800 for a 7 year-old TC is a bit steep. It better have a very good interior, and excellent records, new tires, etc. There are quite a few used TC's of lower trim line available. I'd be cautious.
  • cats8cats8 Posts: 22
    how fast do the 1994 lincoln can go. if you now email me at mkitty@inreach.com
  • I bought a 91 with the dual exhaust and 4.6L engine. I do not think it has the touring stuff. Has the air suspension in the rear. Had 82K miles, bought it from someone at work I did not know. Anyway, have put over 10,000 more miles on it the last 6 months. It uses a quart of oil every 800 miles. Does not blow any smoke out the tailpipe, took it to a good local shop and they could not figure out where the oil is going (5W30). They did not think it is the valve seals since there is no smoke when starting the car when cold. They checked for leaks and such and could find none. They suggested using 10W30 at a minimum, even 10W-40 or 20W-50. Is that a good idea? I tried the 10W-30 and it burns at about the same rate.
    Is this engine in need of overhauling or should I just keep putting in oil every other tank. Will it damage the valves or valvetrain components by burning this much oil? Runs fine, gets 22MPG highway, less in the winter. Would trying the slick50 stuff hurt anything? Thanks for any input.
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