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Lincoln Town Car

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Comments

  • No question it will deteriorate much faster than paint, but it will also depend on many variables, such as how much sun it gets, other weather. (I can't tell where you live). Here in the SouthWest, heat and sun are the enemies of your car, so a car kept in the shade, or garaged lasts forever. We never have rust. But if it's seeing the sunlight every day, even if you condition the top with a protectorant, it's eventually going to shred in to pieces and fly off as you drive.

    But the good news is, they can be replaced, and they don't cost all that much either. If it's a great car, don't let the top stop you.
  • If the air compressor runs every time the car is started there is most likely a leak in the system. The car has conventional shocks. The compressor adds air to the air springs which are used in place of conventional coil springs. The system is far superior to "air shocks".
  • Well that's just not true. The Towncar vents air from the rear air spring at each shutdown and pumps them back up again at each startup. The compressor is supposed to run every time the car is started.
  • dbc123dbc123 Posts: 105
    The ride height sensor reads high when the car is unladen (after passenger and luggage are removed).
    After all doors are closed the system will vent down to trim height. One hour after key is turned off system will do a final trim (vent or fill as necessary). Nothing after that until car is keyed up to start. Then, when loaded, sensor will usually read low and command fill to ride height. These are air springs - not air shocks. The shocks are the same as on steel spring panther cars.
  • Looking for info on what real life market is for the above Town Car, 42,000 miles, excellent condition, w/factory warrantee to 2004 or 60,000 miles.
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    99 Signature 14,000 miles for $21,000. Estate sale on Mercer Island. (206) 232 8686.
  • Kinley, Thanx for info. The miles on that one are much in it's favor. I'm in the midwest and have decided to ask $15,950 for mine. We'll see.
  • I recently "inherited" my father's 91 TC (exec. series) with 60K miles. I thought of selling the vehicle, but after driving the car, decided to keep it. It has a few exterior nicks and dings but was well maintained and rides like a charm. As you can tell, my father didn't drive great distances and rarely used the car over the past few years. I've noted your comments regarding the rear axle fluid and would welcome any other suggestions -- timing belt? -- replacing hoses? -- flushing radiator? Thanks.
  • If it has the 4.6L SOHC engine, it has timing chains. But I'm not sure it doesn't have the 5.0L OHV engine, also with a timing chain. Either way,I would flush, drain and refill the radiator, oil, rear axle & transmission just for peace of mind to start fresh. Then you know where you're at. Other than that, there aren't any real disasters lurking in this car.
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    The tires should be replaced if factory. Ours ran 60,000 before new booties were require. Michelin Symetry is a decent ride and price. If a '91, it's a 4.6 OHC engine.
  • suvshopper4suvshopper4 Posts: 1,110
    Here is a link to a good article by the Philadelphia Inquirer's semi-retired auto writer, Al Haas, about how a 2000 Town Car is a pretty good buy.

    He says one with 42,000 miles, in great shape, is an excellent car and can be had for about 1/2 price v. new.


    http://www.philly.com/mld/inquirer/classifieds/automotive/4855493.htm

  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    I clikked on "Business - Automotive" and read about Electromagnetic Compatibility under "Keeping All Your Vehicles Devices On Friendly Terms". Hoo Boy!
  • jrguthjrguth Posts: 4
    95' Town Car, love it, but the drivers window is slow and jerky. Is their a simple fix? Or does inside door have to be removed and what? Lubrication, motor replacement, other?

    Thanks for your help, have enjoyed reading all the posts here.

    jrguth
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    With all other lights and accessories "Off" and a slight increase in rpm, does the window operate satisfactorly? Sometimes with an old battery and low rpm with lights and other items on, there can be a reduction in electrical energy going to that little motor in the bottom of the door. Another area to look at is the contacts at the arm rest when you press the window actuator. Corrosion can occurr there also.
  • jrguthjrguth Posts: 4
    Sorry for the delay, had to test the window. No, with more power doesn't seem to help. I hit the down switch and nothing happens, then all of a sudden it starts down. Going back up is same type of delay then the jerks begin, course at that point we have the added weight of the window glass.

    Thanks for your suggestions. jrguth
  • dbc123dbc123 Posts: 105
    You might try spraying some silicone lubricant in the front and rear guides if the window is binding there; however, it sounds like the regulator is going out - a common problem with these cars. The regulator is about $70 from Ford and requires about 1-2 hours to replace.
  • I have a 88 Lin TwnCar that needs an engine soon. The Rod Bearing is knocking and it has 121K on it. I was looking around and was wondering- Does anyone out there have Experiences with a 93 0r 94 Lin TwnCar ? Mechanically mainly
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    It has the "Touring" package
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    It has the "Touring" package & rides accordingly. You can feel the pavement, but it corners like a locomotive. More stable than without the package.
    6/14/94 installed hitch & transmission cooler. 8/5/96 replaced A/C fan speed controler, warranted
    4/25/97 replaced driver side rear door control,N/C
    5/27/97 @ 44352 mi. aligned front end
    7/17/97 @ 50830 mi. Platinum plugs installed.
    2/6/98 @ 59756 mi. Installed Michelin X1 WSW
    6/15/98 @ 67439 mi. Recharged A/C system
    7/27/98 @ 70965 changed transmission oil & filter.
    7/28/98 @ 70970 rear loaded calipers and rotors
    4/14/00 @ 80272 A/C coolant and seals
    5/24/00 @ 81541 front brake pads
    11/28/01@ 98000 new pinion, bearings, rear axles, & spider gears.*
    12/26/01 99069 new spark plug wires
    4/8/02 101605 left lower ball joint
    6/17/02 102520 A/C compressor, dryer, & recharge

    *The owners maintenance manual says to not check the axle fluid until 100,000. The fluid had turned to foam causing the repair. I personally visited the Lincoln Customer Service rep and she agreed to pay for 50% of the bill due to the verbiage in the manual being deceptive.

    All of the items under the hood affected by the fan belt are original as is the battery. The idle air valve needs to be replaced as sometimes the car sounds like a ship's fog horn. This car has towed, infrequently, a 3000 lb boat/trailer as far as the lakes in B.C. It has never overheated and is as quiet as the day we bought it. Recently a passenger thought the engine had died at a traffic light, but it is very smooth and very quiet. I use Mobil 1 and NAPA Gold oil filters. The filter is easy to change when you turn the steering wheel hard left first.

    The air suspension system = no problem.
    Uses a quart of 10/30 every 1,200 miles.

    The above was taken from the log and I hope it is helpful to you. I recommend you check the axle fluid before buying. Good Luck. Kinley
  • kinleykinley Posts: 854
    rotors were replaced before the front pads because the rear brakes are used more than the fronts! In'94 the Cruise Control applied the rear brakes only when going downhill so as to maintain a constant MPH. Also, you can bet the Towncar with dual exhaust has the Touring package especially when the tire size is 225 instead of 215.
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