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Chevrolet Lumina

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Comments

  • My first thought on this has something to do with an after-market stereo ... did you happen to put one in? If so, the wiring might be crossed somewhere or even loose. My dash lights didn't work at all when mine was put in, they crossed the power and acc. wires (and they call themselves pros). If no new rasio, I would suggest checking your alternator - that's a good light blinker when it's bad. If it's reading good ... fuses, wiring under the dash or something in the electrical computer. Hope this helps :)
  • pluto5pluto5 Posts: 618
    Get the alternator checked, too. It is a weak point on the Lumina and it pays to replace it with a good quality (domestic) rebuit with a good warranty.
  • Anyone knows if its possible to get a digital version of a 1995 3.1L Lumina Owner's manual?

    As I can't seem to get a original one maybe its possible to get one this way..

    thnx
  • You may have a inssue with you 3 speed transmission Sounds like a bad Torque Clutch Control Solenoid on your transmission. This happens on the 3 speed transmission. They heat up after 25-30 miles, the lock-up solenoid stick when the transmission gets hot. It’s like on a manual transmission stopping and not pushing in the clutch. You can start the car back up and sometimes the lock-up un sticks itself and you can drive again.
  • kenlakekenlake Posts: 1
    Can a manuaul be found for the 1999 Lumina sedan with the 3.1 v6? I just purchased my lumina and am trying to find a manual.
  • woulmanwoulman Posts: 1
    :( What does "Security" indicator mean? Why does the car begin to intimentent starting?
  • You might want to have a look at your lockup torque converter. It could be that it's not unlocking when you slow down/stop, and the result is something not unlike stopping a standard shift car when it's in gear.
  • sirius2sirius2 Posts: 42
    I bought a Chiltons for my 1997 (covers 1997-2000 Lumina, Century, Gran Prix). I've found it a little less desirable than other chiltons because it doesn't always cover my 3.1 engine in the diagrams/instructions. What do you need to know?
  • sirius2sirius2 Posts: 42
    It took some effort but I got mine out. Just be careful with the washer tank, I broke the pump getting it out and it cost $28 for the motor (3 years ago).
  • sirius2sirius2 Posts: 42
    I've got a 97 Lumina with $96K miles. I've spent over $5000 in maintenance the last five years on this beast! Consumer reports was right in every category of problem. Fuel pump $900, Rack & pinion $1000, AC leaks $750, Valve cover gaskets $700, Water Pump $500, tires, brakes, etc. Obviously some of this is normal maintenance, and I've had to pay the dealer to do some work. But I did the alternator, battery, and all oil changes myself.
  • chimanbjchimanbj Posts: 2
    I have a 96 Lumina that has had a series of things go wrong with it over the years, but it still runs fairly well. Recently, I was driving when I noticed that the temperature gauge was almost to the redline. I immediately turned a corner to go to a service station, and the gauge went from almost redline to a normal temperature within 5 seconds. I was freaked out, and was ready to dump the car, before common sense hit me. I've seen this happen in every drive since. In the cold weather, I have to drive for about 2 miles before this happens. In the warmer weather, it seems to start jumping around more often.
    I thought it was just a bad gauge, but now the heater seems to have stopped working, so I'm not sure what's going on. I have 106K miles and a lot of them recently are in urban stop-and-go traffic.
    Any thoughts? :confuse:
  • sirius2sirius2 Posts: 42
    My 97 did the same thing until I put in a new water pump.
  • chimanbjchimanbj Posts: 2
    How much does something like that cost?
  • sirius2sirius2 Posts: 42
    I had mine done by the dealer. The pump was cheap but there was some labor. I think it was about $200.
  • speedygspeedyg Posts: 1
    hello everyone, i hope someone can help me. i have a broken hood latch for my 92 chevy lumina,i got a replacement but upon installation, i realized the pin has to be removed, which holds the latch in place. the thing isn't budging. why? what am i missing? it isn't riveted, but the pin is somehow attached /adhered to the latch. help me, i am getting tired of using my pliers to get under my hood.
  • sirius2sirius2 Posts: 42
    Let us know when you find out!
  • sac220sac220 CaPosts: 24
    Have a 95 Lumina 3.1. Just starting having this problem on the way home from work this am. Started hesitating at stop light when I go to take off. Push the gas and almost dies then goes. Doesnt seem to have any other problems until stopped at another light. Same thing starts to stall then goes. Just changed the plugs and put injector cleaner in. Used some carb cleaner on the throttle body. Was wondering if it might be injector problem or maybe fuel filter. Although would seem if it was fuel filter it wouldnt run that well at high speed. Only does it at take off.Any ideas?
  • sirius2sirius2 Posts: 42
    Gas Filter or plug wires. I've had to change both on my 97.
  • huzzydhuzzyd Posts: 2
    Have you checked the thermostat? I've had this stick on other vehicle's I've owned causing an inaccurate and/or variable reading on the temperature guage. One problem I had was my engine was overheating but my temperature guage wasn't reading it, showing a normal temp. Didn't know anything was wrong until the engine ran so hot it blew a 6 inch hole in my radiator! It was caused by the thermostat sticking. It can stick in either the open or closed position causing an inaccurate guage reading. Best to replace it since on most vehicles it's a relatively inexpensive part.
  • huzzydhuzzyd Posts: 2
    Go to "chevy.com" and register on their website. You can order manuals thru them or view on-line. I just looked it up myself on the 1998 Lumina I recently purchased.
  • sac220sac220 CaPosts: 24
    I dont think its been that long since I replaced the plug wires. They looked fine on the ends. But is a possibility. Havent got a clue where the filter is. Probably takes another special tool. I have a garage full of special tools for everything else.Was looking in manual and sounds like it might be egr valve. Am going to the junk yard today. 180 bucks for a new one. Pcv valve didnt look to good either. What about the fuel pump any thoughts on that? Wouldnt seem like it would be only on take off if it was that but stranger htings have happened. Thanks for the info SAC
  • sirius2sirius2 Posts: 42
    I've replaced the EGR it was closer to $120 at my local parts store. Gas filter is underneath the cabin of the car, drivers side edge, rear seat. Fairly easy to change, and if it's never been replaced, you should replace it FIRST, since it's only $15. There is a special tool, but I found it easier to not use it (maybe there's a trick). I've replaced a fuel pump too. It's in the tank and I paid my shop about $800 for that job, they had to drop the tank, etc. In my case the car would not start at all. They'll do the fuel filter at the same time. Let us know what it is.

    http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?mfrcode=ACD&mfrpartnumber=GF578&p- arttype=4&ptset=A
  • sac220sac220 CaPosts: 24
    I found a used egr with lomiles on it and it didnt make any difference so saved myself that money. Also am wondering about the vacuum to the fuel regulator. Dont have a fuel regulator gauge to check it. Am going to change fuel filter today. Said to make sure to bleed off vacuum before I take off filter, so wont get it in the eye lol. Was also wondering about the throttle body if there was anything in it that might be sticking so the injectors arent getting the surge at first. As I said it is only when starting off at stop sign when it happens. Once you get going it runs fine no missing or hesitation what so ever. Will let you know. Thanks again for all the help SAC
  • I had a 95 Lumina with the 3.1 engine and the only time it acted like this is when the MAP sensor connector was loose. There is also a vacumn line leading to the sensor, make sure it isn't leaking. If you or someone you know has a scan tool, it could eliminate a lot of false starts.
    Be careful disconnecting the fuel filter, it may be holding as much as 40 psi. Best to let the car sit overnight, then check for residual pressure at the test port.
    Also, run a vacumn check on the engine if possible.
  • sac220sac220 CaPosts: 24
    The map sensor is the one by the coil pack isnt it.? Hevent checked that yet. Was wondering about the fuel pressure. Have no way of checking it. Have a friend who might have the gauge. I released the fuel pressure at the relief valve, and there was still some pressure but I had a rag around it when I released it so it wouldnt get me in the face. Sounds like an exhaust leak down under the egr valve, But didnt see any thing that looked like soot anywhere around that area. May be a cracked manifold, has a cover so couldnt see that.Kind of hard to get at .Will keep posted on what I find Thanks for all the help SAC
  • sac220sac220 CaPosts: 24
    Have another question. If it was a sensor shouldnt I be getting a code from the check engine? Or service engine. Just a thought. I'm not getting either. When I gun the engine from under the hood by hand it gets a little puff of smoke from whereever the exhaust leak is . Only does it if I gun it really quick at the point of almost dieing.. Just cant seem to get a handle on it. Am getting ready to sell it for my son so hate to dump too much money in it but wont be able to sell it unless I can fix the dead spot. Oh well thanks SAC
  • sirius2sirius2 Posts: 42
    I'm no help on exhaust leaks or cracked manifolds (sorry). My bad sensors always exhibited themselves with the check engine light and a code. I highly recommend throttle bottle cleaning. In fact, on Hondas it's considered regular maintenance, but not on Chevys, but it should be. What's your odometer? Good luck.
  • sac220sac220 CaPosts: 24
    Odometer is 178000. Engine was rebuilt at about 125, but didnt change any sensors. This is the first time it has acted up since the rebuild. Was almost 6 years ago now. Was thinking headgasket but its not overheating. And it seems to run out at speed just fine. Will keep plugging thanks SAC
  • sac220sac220 CaPosts: 24
    I know its been awhile but we finally found the problem. I was down to my last straw. I wsa taking the car to the mechanic and it died in the street half way there. Let it cool off, got it going by holding the accelerator to the floor and got it back home. Found in the manual tps sensor. Unplugged it and it would run fine. Allright I'm thinking this has to be it. Put a new one on and guess what? NOT!. Last and final straw. Talked to friend mechanic he brought his scanner over and plugged it in couldnt find anything at first, then noticed temp with running was only 53degrees. Trans was 120 degrees. Hmmmmmmm. he said change temp sensor. HHHAAALLALUYAHHHHHH> I'm on the road again. Just thought you would like to know. Thanks for all the help. SAC
  • sac220sac220 CaPosts: 24
    I have a problem with my 95 with the fans also. The passenger side doesnt seem to be working even tho I replaced both. The ac fan on the drivers side works. Where is the sending unit and the fan switch?
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