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Chevrolet Lumina

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Comments

  • jwtee1961jwtee1961 Posts: 4
    Recon ECU £125stg(as opposed to £400 new) £50stg to re-code but make sure you get someone who really knows his stuff as a cut price job with these things normally means you really get to know the bus driver well!!.Find out where the little bugger is located,wrap some tissue around a small stick and have a poke around,if it comes out wet or damp this could be your problem.Also check out local salvage yards if they are selling you an ECU they surely will know someone who can brainwash it.
  • mindmeldmindmeld Posts: 4
    Intersting. Alright thanks much jwtee. I'll go pull the book on it since it's in the truck and see how it looks. I'm going to arm myself with some q-tips and paper towels and some rubbing alcohol and see if that does it to because that would be a might bit cheaper. Hopefully it doesn't need replacing. Thanks again.
  • mindmeldmindmeld Posts: 4
    So I just went down to the car armed with a few items and a spare key we had located some time ago. It has not been used much at all to my knowledge and with this key the car started without issue 5 times in a row. My wife had noticed earlier in the day that when she put her key in and turned it to "ON" that if the security light was blinking it would not start. If it was solid she found herself fine.

    With this new key it was solid all the time tested and I was surprised. I took my key and cleaned it with some rubbing alcohol and a Q-Tip and when tested it also worked fine. Could this have been some strange fluk with the car or could the keys have just been dirty enough to cause a problem. As long as it doesn't come up again, I don't care. : ) Thanks for all the responses and help everyone.
  • misspatmisspat Posts: 4
    I have a 1995 Lumina and the same thing happened to me a few years back. After numerous times of trying to get it into park. We drove into a mechanic shop that we knew and he looked and said it was a shifting arm under the hood. Mine was cracked and was stopping it from going into park. Sometimes it would land just right and you could put it in park. But as time went on it was getting harder and harder to keep it there. So please have someone check under the hood for the shifting arm and see if that is your problem. Piece is a little pricey but will fix the problem.
  • misspatmisspat Posts: 4
    My security lockout went out on mine a few years back and had to replace it. It will let you put your key in and then it will not start. The light keeps flashing on your security light. "RIGHT"?. Have someone check this device before you do anything else. Some cars let you use a bypass code from the radio and to disengage it. But some models do not let you. Mine was the one that you could not bypass and had to replace the system which is a bit pricey $300.00 to $500.00 depending where you take it. It is located in back of the glovebox in the dash board. Hope this might give you some insight that it could be the security system itself.
  • Car was not driven for 10 days and will not start, battery completely dead. Previously everything was fine. I tried to jump start for one hour and interior lights, dispay warning messages on dash, were activated and radio. Car will still not start. In addition, the theft detection audio alarm was activated and goes into alarm when I open the door, turn key and mysteriously. Any suggestions ?

    Thanks
  • i had same problem i went to john deere shop got a push botton switch hooked one wire to starter and one wire to ground post on battery now i turn switch on and push the botton and it startes nobody could fig.out what was wrong
  • Ok: Car is leaking something (oil I believe the Mech. said). The reserve coolant (i believe it's called) is low (even though just got oil change). Car too hot (specially under my feet inside car). I have gotten the low coolant warning and took care of it. Car shakes terrible past 45 mph (no not the steering wheel). The car has a strong smell of something leaking or burning inside When I put gear on drive, that gear changes too hard (aggressively). One mech. said don't bother and get rid of her cause the cost of the head gasket change is too expensive. Suggestions please!!! :( I do not want to get rid of her and I need her around until the end of this year, at least! :cry:
  • 1987ss1987ss Posts: 4
    Hi everyone, I have a code 43, which is the control module. I replaced it last week and i still have the same code 43 back. And i still have the same problem. When i first start it up, it runs very rough to where it almost dies, BUT it is only like this during the first 10-20 seconds. After that it smooths out and runs perfectly smooth. It does this everytime i start it, after it sits more than an 30 minutes or so. If i start it quickly, like 5 or 10 minutes after i shut it off, then it will start fine though. I did replace all the plugs and wires during the same time that i replaced the module. Someone said my computer might be bad. So what do you guys think? :confuse:
  • 1987ss1987ss Posts: 4
    Not sure but they are notorious for intake gaskets leaking. Just about every 3.1 has that issue. Maybe u should get a second opinion and get the intake gasket looked at. JMO
  • The intake manifold problem is common with the 3.1 Ltr engine, but make sure you get the actual GM replacement part. If you get an aftermarket part, it may be of the same faulty design as the original and may need to be replaced again. Me and my wife went through this experience with her 1999, and had many headaches with it. :lemon:
  • crissydcrissyd Posts: 1
    I have a 98 chevy lumina that keeps overheating. I think there might be a clog because I have tried everything else. Of course being a lumina it could be in intake manifold, but before i go there I would like to drain the antifreeze and check to see if its clogged but im not where the drain plug is.
  • troubled2utroubled2u Posts: 2
    Hi everyone I am a disbled man now with a disabled car lol right! Well I have no rear break lights but the top mount does work. I have checked fuses, wiring and replaced the bulbs and well still no lights what can be the cause of this and go gently because I have price shock these days.
  • My Lumina is great, but in Texas without AC you're in bad shape during the summer.
    The blower in the interior died. I'm looking for someone who has knowledge of how to replace the fan and where its located. HELP! BURNING UP!

    THANKS!
  • 1987ss1987ss Posts: 4
    Well, on 90-94 models, the fan is under the dash on the far passenger side. It's not real hard to change, but its a pain because of having to bend underneath there to work on it. If it's a 1995 or newer, then im not sure if they are in the same place or not.
  • This is a 2000 model. I looked up the part at Oreillys and it looks simple to replace.
    Does anyone know if the fan is located on the passenger side of the dash underneath?
    I have got to replace this thing asap as it is HOT!

    Thanks!
  • kiowakidzkiowakidz Posts: 3
    Folks, I ran across a 2001 Lumina, 111,000 miles, $1500, 3.1l V6, first year of it's life it was as a rental, then spent the rest if it's time with one owner. I've read and understand about the intake manifold gasket issues. My questions are: How much have folks paid to replace the gasket replacement. Are there any other big issues I should look for? The vehicle has been taken care, the price is right and it fits my needs. Overall, have y'all been happy with the reliability of your Lumina's? Thanks for the help!!!
  • duece69duece69 Posts: 3
    i have a 2001 and a 1997 lum. the problem i have is with head gaskets both car are sittin up right now i have replaced gasket on both and they didnt last long...but i love them lum.need to find new motors for at least 1 so i can ride
  • jgoodhartjgoodhart Posts: 1
    I have a 92 lumina euro. 140,000 miles. I have recently changed the intake gasket, throttle position sensor, rod bearings, oil pump, fuel pump, alternator, cleaned the idle air control sensor and the main computer. the car will run great and then intermittently(?) the engine will faulter, hesitate spit and sputter, lack power, and then after a few seconds, will run great again. The times change, sometimes the faulter situation will last a few seconds, other times a few mins, and yet others will last the entire drive 20mns or so. There doesnt seem to be any rhyme or reason to it. There are no engine codes. The service engine light does work,(it comes on when you turn the key as normal) any suggestions???? please help as I love this car
  • 1987ss1987ss Posts: 4
    Well, i had a similar problem with my 93, and it ended up being the Ignition module or 1 of the ignition coils. Could even be an arcing wire...... I didn't know what to replace, so i just bought the ignition module and all 3 coil packs and put them on, and it never ran like that again. So im not sure which one of the 4 items fixed it........Mine had the 3.1......
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