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Mitsubishi Endeavor Maintenance and Repair

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  • I have a 2004 XLS AWD...my lower radiator hose has a small leak. The hose is not available in the parts store. What other mitsubishi model & year uses the same hose
  • the same thing happened to us. what did you do?
  • Sam e with us. How do we join the law suit?
  • Hi there, I'm having the same problem and can't seem to find a solution, I'd really appreciate if you tell me how did you get it fixed, I'm, really hoping it's not a computer issue or something complicated, but as you say the fuses seem to be OK. PLEASE talk to us!!
  • Hi there, where you able to fix your problem?? I'm also suffering with the same thing. Thanx for your help!
  • Hi there, as a couple of other endeavor owner that posted here I just had their same problem, suddenly my audio system, interior lights and automatic key stopped working all at the same time and on my LCD display it showed the message "communication error", I started looking for an answer on the internet and came across this forum and a few others, some people said that this was and ECU failure (one of the computers) and that really got me a little scared trying to figure out how much it would cost me to replace it. I spent a couple of months worrying and looking for an answer, the specialists told me that I should bring my car for a $150 bucks scanning to know exactly what it was, anyways long story short I found another website where a Chrysler owner had the exact same problems as I did and he said that he got it fixed very easily, this is what happened:

    *Check your electrical system fuses, you'll find them in under the hood next to the battery where the computer (ECU) is located, there you'll see 2 fuses that are isolated by a yellow "jacket" (they're the IOD fuses, 10A and 15A) that you'll have to pull up about 1/4 inch, then using a little screwdriver or a small knife open the little plastic that holds both of the fuses and pull the fuse up. To put them back in use the same method by opening the little tabs and pushing the fuse down. I had to replace the blue 15A fuse that controls the interior lights since it was blown and everything went back to work again perfectly. I have to mention that I checked every fuse in the driver's compartment the minute the problem occurred and got really frustrated to find nothing wrong in there, it wasn't until last night that I found out that those two other fuses even existed!! I never even tried to take a look at them since it seemed really hard to reach in. Anyways, I'm really glad that it was just a blown fuse and not a very expensive new ECU.

    I hope this helps someone else out there and you can save money as I did by just paying $5 bucks for a case of new fuses!
  • I hear noises at the front whell. The bolt or the hole of the caliper have anormal wearing.what can I do?
  • I just purchased a 2004 Endeavor LS with 45,000 miles on it.....from a dealer. On my test drive at 40 MPH there was a slight "shutter". The best way to describe it is like when you run over the little reflectors in the middle of the road and you tell your passengers you are driving my braile.

    Anyway, the dealer fixed it, reassured me that it was NOT the transmission. He told me that they called a Mitsubishi dealer (I purchased from a Chevrolet dealer) and the mechanic immediately told the Chevy's dealer mechanic what to check. They did...problem gone. Five days have come and gone and I have not had another problem. I did purchase an after market warranty....2 years/24k miles for a little added comfort. What I would really like to know is if anyone here has experienced this problem and if so, can you explain it to me in english? :)
  • I had an 04 XLS with a similar problem. I took mine into Les scwabb where they found that the nut of the bolt to the "nuckle" behind the drivers wheel was missing and the bolt was sliding out. I purchased a locking nut from a nuts and bolts store and fixed it myself. Drove it another year without a problem then sold it. Have your tires checked. Mine did this for a while before I took it in and it threw my alignment way off and wore the tires unevenly so I had to purchase all new tires for the car....
  • Tires were the first thing I thought. There are 4 brand new tires on it. Again, the salesman tried to, and did....convince me that it was a simple fix and I wouldn't have another problem with it.

    I guess I should just "let it go" and hope that the problem doesn't come up again.

    Thanks for the suggestion though!!!!!!
  • esbalutaesbaluta Posts: 2
    We are experiencing a noise when the vehicle has become warm, and are driving around 70 mph. It sounds like a whining sound, almost like a balloon losing air slowly. It also seems to only take place when applying gas. We took it in to a mechanic but they could not find any problem. Has anybody else had this problem? What is it? Not sure if related- but we have had the "Service Engine Soon" light come one- and I checked it with my handy code reader and it stated "Too Lean." Seen this a couple of times; the light goes away, but have seen this on longer trips where the vehicle is driven for longer periods of time. Timing belt? Fuel pump? Water pump? Belt? Drive train? This one has me totally stumped.

    Also- the power window on the driver's side will not open the rear right window.. but it will close it...
    One other item- the external rear light seems to crack all the time- I think it has something to do with the position of the rear window washer sprayer (comes through the light) and sunlight- the plastic expands and it cracks. We have about 90K miles on it- but have had a great experience overall. Would like to fix whatver the noise is because it does worry us (we use this car often and have 2 small kids).
    I'm guessing most owners of this SUV have or are having these problems...
    Any Mitsubishi mechanics reading this??? Please help!
  • esbalutaesbaluta Posts: 2
    Please read my post (#467)- is this the same thing you had????
  • jsbondjsbond Posts: 1
    My car is the same as you all, it has lost its clear coat and and looks terrible. I am amazed that you all have had the same problems because I thought that it was something that I didn't do, or did. Like when it went to Vermont for Christmas and it was 18 below at night.
  • I'm also having this issue in my 2006 Endeavor. I thought I would try running the new hose through to the engine compartment before drilling a hole through the floorboard. How is that solution holding up?

    (Can you provide me with pictures/detail on how you sealed the hose on the inside of the evaporator box?)
  • minninmominninmo Posts: 1
    I just had the same problem with my 2004 Endeavor. The mechanic said it was the torque converter..that it sometimes gets a coating or "varnish" formed on it. He corrected it by changing the transmission fluid..( if it had just been changed, he wouldn't have done that) and putting in an additive that Ford makes since they had lots of problems with this happening at some point. He said it might take a few days for the shuddering to disappear but I drove away and never felt it again. That was a month ago.
  • For the record, after 1.5 days of trial and error I was finally able to get the new hose through and sealed on the inside and all is good. I had a really hard time getting a seal around the hose to block off water from the old route and force it through the new hose. But finally found the right size hose and used the tapered tip from a silicone adhesive tube to flare it out, then cut the tip at the right length and pushed it all into the evaporator pan drain with a little plumbers goop to help seal it. Works like a charm! Whew. Glad to get this one behind me.
  • Driver side rear quarter panel. Air pressures caused by chassis movement on uneven road surfaces causes it to flap and tap sounding like a rattle. Only way to get rid of this problem is to remove the Endeavor's rear cargo trim on the drivers side which (unfortunately) is one-piece so you must remove the entire trim. Thankfully, it's the side away from the subwoofer (the subwoofer side is 3x harder to remove with many more small pieces to deal with). Driver's side cargo wall trim only consists of the obvious screws (and I believe one bolt) that you see, and about 8 clips that hold it down.
  • 2004 XLS Endeavor has begun opening the back end of the sunroof (which you can't do with the switch) on its own. Sounds crazy I know, but it appears as though there is some kind of electrical glitch that is occurring that causes the sunroof to move forward enough to raise the back end. Of course it happened again today while in the store and it began raining. I already had some of the same roof leaking problems when going through the car wash, but this one is new. No one is messing with the switch and the car is garage kept. Any one have problems with this...yet? Thanks
  • memo3memo3 Posts: 1
    I just did what you said and IT WORKED!! thanks a lot man, you are a genius
  • waltj1waltj1 Posts: 2
    With the help of the other forums, I threaded a coat hanger through the drilled hole in the HVAC case and out to the engine compartment. I then put a 3/8 inch copper tube (about 4 inches long) spread some adhesive on the end and pushed it into the drain line using the coat hanger as a guide.
    Let the adhesive dry before running your AC.
    The copper tube should be bent a bit to make the turn past the fire wall and also install a 90 degree fitting to guide the water down. Keep the tube higher at the point where it is inserted into the drain so no water will run up the side of the tube and back inside.

    I did this about 5 months ago and it still works fine.
  • waltj1waltj1 Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 Endeavor, and it developed a noise which sounds like a tensioner pulley. However after changing it the noise is still there. The interesting thing is that the noise is only there for about 10 minutes after you start the engine in the morning and then the noise is gone.
  • johnmhartejohnmharte Posts: 14
    That's great to hear and with cooper tubing.

    I'm still holding fine with my plastic deal and the o-rings. Since the humidity here i always around 98-100% it makes some nice puddles. ;)
  • My 04 Mitsubishi Endeavor looks like it should be in a junk yard. I bought it new, it has 137,000 miles and has been peeling for the past 2 yrs. I called Mitsubishi about it and they had me take it to one of their dealerships with a body shop. They said if their body shop said it was a defect they would see what they could do to fix the issue. So last fall I took it there and they said in writing it was definitely a defect, too thin a clear coat and it was maybe only worth a 1/4 of it's value due to the paint and how it looks. They sent their report in and I've called Mitsubishi and can't get anyone to answer my calls now. Anyone else gone through this and had any success?
  • Thanks for the great detail. Just drilled my hole in evap drain tonight and had a ton of water come out. Will install bypass hose tomorrow.

    Have a 2007 AWD, so not sure of best place to drill hole in floorboard. Looking for suggestions.

    JJ
  • It's behind the glove box which is removed by taking out 4 screws.
  • I went for the transmission hump. So not really the floorboard/floorpan. Since I only had a 2WD it seemed to make sense as it was wide open.
  • I had that problem.I solved it making 2 small "surco" (I dont know the translation) on the bolt and put a O-ring on each one.
  • Just fixed a 03 Endeavor that had this problem. The exhaust flange behind bank 2 converter had broke where the final converter and rest of the exhaust system connects to. I was able to remove the bolts and place the flange back in place and weld it. sounds much better now.
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