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Volvo S40

1666769717289

Comments

  • Thank you. I went to bankrate.com and did some more research and realized that this lease deal:

    The MSRP is $32,225

    The invoice price is $30,157

    The Cap price (leasing price) is $26,807

    Terms- 36 months, 15,000 miles per year, drive off is $491.94, 35 payments of $491.94. Residual value is $15,145.

    ENDS UP POTENTIALLY COSTING THIS:


    $17,709.84 total in payments
    $15,145 Residual Value
    $17,245.00 total price to purchase w/tax @ 6.5%
    Total actual price of car:
    $34,954.00
    :mad:

    Bank rate.com advises adding up all of your lease expenses and the cost of purchasing your car at the lease end (just in case). This also helps to show you what type of deal you are getting. the thing I don't understand is how $26807 turned back in more than the MSRP when I look at the total payments and the residual value.
  • fedlawmanfedlawman Posts: 3,118
    Is the $491.94 figure before or after tax?
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    Short answer is don't buy the car at the end of the lease.

    The other way to look at it is this: $26,807 sale price, plus tax and license, finance @6.9% for 60 mos. total price $34,200. 60mo pmt @$570. In reality the purchase price would be $2000 higher, since the lease incentive is greater than the purchase incentive.
    Now, your payment is @ $612 and the total cost is $36,700.
    If you plan on keeping the car for a long time, buy it.
    Otherwise take the lease.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,889
    Volvomax summed it up pretty well.

    When you are calculating your potential cost, you are adding in all the taxes, interest, etc.

    i mentioned the lease calculator on edmunds before, but here is the direct link. Plug in all your info and see what you get.

    http://www.edmunds.com/apps/calc/CalculatorController?tid=edmunds.finance.financ- elanding.calculators..3.*

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • jims40jims40 Posts: 5
    i want to upgrade my whole exhaust system the headers, turbo downpipe to the cat, muffler, everything could somone tell me a good website or somone to call caus its pretty hard to find out about volvo performace parts i also want an intake but im pretty sure k & n will work.
  • jims40jims40 Posts: 5
    oh yeah its a 2003
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You should have a look at our Speed Shop: Tuning & Modification board. Have fun!
  • jims40jims40 Posts: 5
    in addition to the exhaust i was thinking of getting the upsolute chip they say that it gives 40 more horses and doesn't effect the gas mileage or ware?

    UPsolute.com
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,889
    i haven't looked at the specs on your specific car, but, many times, when going for the highest chip upgrade on a turbo car, it requires you use premium fuel. So, unless you are already running premium, your fuel costs will increase, regardless if the actual mileage remains the same.

    Just thought I'd point that out, not that it should prevent you from doing it. Heck, I don't mind running premium for increased performance.

    check out ipdusa.com for other upgrades.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    For an older S40, ipd is probably your best bet.
  • sunbyrnesunbyrne Posts: 210
    i haven't looked at the specs on your specific car, but, many times, when going for the highest chip upgrade on a turbo car, it requires you use premium fuel.

    Volvo already recommends premium fuel in the T5 for best performance anyway. I suspect most T5 drivers are already putting at least midgrade in, so maybe it's not such a hit. Now, mileage may be another story...
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,889
    there is no '03 S40 T5.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • sunbyrnesunbyrne Posts: 210
    Ah, right, sorry, I had lost context.
  • I'm going to buy an S40 2.4i in a couple months...fwd/auto...any pros or cons with the 16" tires vs the 17" tires....wear wise?? I'm sure the 17's will cost more.
    How bout the awd model...does the awd eat up the tires...do they wear quicker??
    Thanks in advance!!
  • hi

    thinking of buying a 2000 s40 volvo with 61000 miles on it. Is there any reason why I shouldn't go ahead with the deal?
  • Hello All-

    About 7months ago i purchased a 2000 S40 Volvo from Car Max that had 82thousand miles at a great price. I drove the car for 3months and then constant problems began to happen. The ignition Coil had to be replaced and so and so forth. My problem now, when I drive the car at about 30-40 miles per hour, it drives smoothly. When I try to accelerate to 60 or 70 miles per hour the car begins to knock and act like it just can not make it. The knocking is felt underneath the floor board and sometimes it will get so bad that it shakes the car. The faster I go the harder the knocking gets and it progressively get worse over the day. One mechanic told me it is the CV Joint another has said that I am not using the correct Octane fuel? Has anyone else had a problem like this? PLEASE HELP!!!!
  • qbrozenqbrozen Posts: 16,889
    well, easy enough to pick between those problems. ARE you using the correct fuel? If so, I would tend to agree with the CV joint. But that can be checked before actually replacing it.

    '13 Stang GT; '86 Benz 300E; '98 Volvo S70; '12 Leaf; '08 Town&Country

  • :confuse: The car actually did not come with a owners manual and CarMax stated that I could your regular gas in the car. I thought that to be kind of strange, so i have been putting Mid-grade in the car, is that wrong?
  • volvomaxvolvomax Posts: 5,274
    try premium and see if that works.
    The S40 works best on premium.
  • I own a 2000 S40 with 82k miles and I have a similar issue with vibration. It is definitely not a gasoline issue. We found that all three motor mounts had broken and needed to be replaced. After fixing those, we had to replace the right-front axle because the engine was 2 inches out of alignment. When we got it back from the shop, the problem still persisted. My mechanic suggested that we replace all the tires...we did as told, but the vibration is still there. From 20-60 mph the car harmonically vibrates. Today, we put it on a lift rack and I revved the car from 10-60 mph and I can feel the vibration. Does anyone have any other thoughts on a solution to the problem? There is no play in the axles and I wouldn't think that a sensor would cause the problem.
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