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Comments
Before I got my lift I had a bit of a wobble in the steering at 45 mph while accelerating and decelerating. Now that I have lifted the suspension, the wobble has become more pronounced. I was speaking to a mechanic friend of mine who suggested that because I have 31" tires the steering dampener(that horizontal shock) might not be strong enough to handle the larger tires. He suggested that I get a more high performance unit.
I thought that a tire might be out of balance creating some sort of harmonics at a certain mph.
any thoughts...
1. You may have a balance/alignment issue.
Check out www.4x4xplor.com/alignment.html for a DIY alignment process.
2. Check for loose steering components.
You should also have somebody sit up in the TJ and turn the steering wheel back and forth. While they do that, look at EVERY joint in your steering system and look to see if something lags behind when the wheel is turning. Your pitman arm, coming out of the steering box will move. If anything lags behind that in starting to turn, you have a loose joint. I found my front track bar was loose at the frame and that contributed to a VERY loose steering. Another likely culprit would be the tie rod ends. I have tightened all of mine. If you DO find loose joints, take the joint off to see if the holes have been ovaled to allow more play.
The photo below, from 4x4xplor, shows the various steering and front end components.
-Paul
I had a similar experience at the same speed, but it was more of a vibration that I could feel through the steering wheel and not really a wobble. It turned out to be my front right tire. It had a plug in it from a nail and the more the tire wore down, the more weight it required to balance. In that case a re-balancing and re-distribution of the wheel weights did the trick.
Paul hit the nail on the head (nice graphic), the steering stabilizer will not cause a wobble, but a worn stabilizer or smaller than required stabilizer will "show" you more wobble than a new or upgraded one. Yours should be fine with 31's.
Have you already aligned the front?
Another often overlooked spot is the sway bar disconnects. They should slide on and off with no effort while sitting level (and they probably won't be the same length). If they don't, you have some "pre-load" on your swaybar which will make the sway bar "search" more for level after hitting a bump, possibly causing some of what you feel as wobble or "longer than normal oscillation" as the suspension tries to dampen itself out.
Nicely put. Good pic too.
BTW, for the sway bar, you can get collars to mount inside the swar bar mounts that will keep the swaybar from moving side to side over time. I think I actually saw it on the 4x4xplor.com site (btw, I have no affiliation with the site other than using it for good information and writeups).
-Paul
I really appreciate the wealth of knowledge and experience that you folks share on this site. The picture really helps in the visualization of the parts I havent dealt with yet.
I'm getting the alignment tomorrow and I'll check the balance of the tires as well. As the condition did exist prior to the lift, I know that it is probably not caused by it or anything I did during the process. But, It is more pronounced probably due to the added height.
Yes, it does only happen at 45 MPH. I'll check those tires
what about the left to right movement in the swaybar? does that equalize itself? I measured and centered before placing the disconnects. The bar was not easily moved with my effort, but I could see the weight of the body probably moving it easily. I'll check the rest after the alignment!
and then .... a picture!
The swaybar can move back and forth a bit, but I don't think that would cause the issues you're referencing. You can add some collars as described here:
http://www.4x4xplor.com/swaybar-fix.html
and that should keep that from happening as well. Why Jeep didn't do this on the TJ is beyond me...
-Paul
The Quicker Disconnects that come in your kit are awesome. Not sure if you noticed during the suspension install, but your front driver-side spring is slightly taller than its passenger counterpart...and the rear passenger side is a little taller than the rear driver.
So...use the driver side of your swaybar as the base. Set your swaybar where you want it (as close as you can) and adjust the QD up or down until it is exactly where you want it and torque it down.
Then, move on to the passenger and adjust the QD up or down until it slides easily on and off without any real effort. What you will find is that your passenger side QD isn't exactly the same length as the driver side and that's okay. Every Jeep is different and the beauty of the adjustable QD is the ability to fine tune and get it exactly right.
On level ground, you should have no stress at all on the sway bar. It will always be easy to get the first QD on, but if you find that you have to move the vehicle up or down to fit the other one on, then you need to go back and re-adjust.
Anyway, I have a 98 Wrangler Sahara with 32" x 11.5" x 15 BFG AT's on American Racing 15's with negative offset. The suspension is stock and this tire size is more than likely the biggest possible tires you can stuff into a stock TJ. However, it doesn't come without it's drawbacks. I have experienced some loss of articulation but only because of the stoc k fenders rubbing against the tires. I'm thinking of throwing on the 6" Bushwacker flares but since I have a Sahara, I'm worried that I won't be able to keep that Sahara plastic trim that goes on the rocker panels. I have the stock steps and the rig is green. So...I've been dreaming up a few mods that would entail the modification of certain areas of the car to flat black...like the Bushwacker flares...so, the question is: Will the Bushwacker flares fit nicely with that plastic rocker panel thingie? Does anyone with a Sahara have the Bushwacker flares?
That is all....
Ya'll be cool...
Diego
Miami, FL
98 TJ
Warn 8000
32" x 11.5" BFG AT's
A hell of a sound system!
...and a big 'ole smile
That loss of articulation comes from stuffing tires that are too big for the stock suspension. You may be able to roll around on them over level ground, but the stock suspension wasn't made to articulate and work properly with tires that size off road. The only way to regain any articulation is to modify either the body or suspension. You could add a "budget boost" consisting of spacers added to your coil springs to raise them about 2"...you could add a small body lift (JKS makes a great 1.25")...or you could add a new small suspension lift. All are great options, but look into pricing to see what works for you. Adding 6" fender flares won't buy you any clearance between the flares and tires and would probably run you about the same as some of the above options. A 6" flare would be too wide for 11.5" tires and you would still rub them as much as your stock fenders do now.
Then, catback and intake for better performance. Last a new performance chip to compliment the above enhancements. Please give me some feedback, this is all new to me. Thanks.
On our way back from Vallejo heading north up 101 we were in the passing lane doing 70mph when a semi passed us going the opposite way, probably doing the same speed and this deafening sound filled the cab after pulling over and checking things we decided to get back on the road as we drove along we determined it was the hood. When a semi passed us the opposite direction the hood would violently vibrate up and down each time we stopped and checked the latches and all were secure.This only happened when we were doing 65 or better and the semi was getting it on too.I would compare this sound to taking a large peice of sheet metal and shaking it to make that thundering sound.
Granted Im moving along pretty good but what about I-5 cant I do the speed limit with out this thunderous sound?
I have a soft top that was in place at the time.and no other conditions that would effect this that I can think of
Am I the first?
Any solutions?
Thanks
JPWrangler :confuse:
Thanks
Kent12
Kent12
I have an '06 Unlimited which is my daily driver (kids, etc.) Currently I have a soft top but am looking into an aftermarket hard top. I really like the 2 piece tops like the one from Rally Top in CA; then I can still have easy access to the outdoors. My husband is trying to talk me out of it, says the one piece is alot more practical (less possibility of leaks). Well, Jeeps are not practical in the first place. Does anyone have any experience with the 2 piece tops? How difficult is it to remove and then reinstall the front piece? If its too difficult, then there is no point, I might have to settle for a hard top that never gets removed
Thanks :confuse: ">
link
Next week stay tuned for the annual fashion story telling us that suits are back. :shades:
:confuse:
A to Z Fabrications
Shrockworks
Toys by Troy (that's what I run)
Poison Spyder
Jeeperman
Sun Performance
Warn
Rokmen
All make quality rockers. Most (but not all) of them make a version for the Unlimited too. Places like A to Z and Shrockworks will work with you on any custom things you may need, such as having a tube step or not, powdercoating or not, extra reinforcements, etc.
-Paul
mac24, "Jeep Wrangler" #19968, 11 Oct 2005 3:08 pm
Didn't see a fix other than see the dealer. There may be some other posts in one of the Wrangler maintence discussions. Most of the other leak threads seemed to concern wet carpet from leaks around the windshield.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
-Paul
Jay
1. Determine where your antenna will be. There are number of mount points (bumper, to a mount that goes behind the taillight (see Teraflex's website), or one that mounts to the rear tire carrier (see www.arizonarockyroad.com for ideas).
2. Run the cable from the antenna to the dash area. Some run their cable under the body. Others, like me run it through the interior and 'sandwich' it in the rear tailgate door.
3. Mount CB. I have a Cobra 75WxSt (all in one type setup). I mounted the control box behind the dash and put the connector point in a second switch bezel. Nice and clean. If you have a fullsize CB, you can attach it to the top of the dash, to the side of the shifter/t-case console, or even on the back part of the console. Your call.
Here is what mine looks like.
The CB itself clips in just to the right of the steering wheel.
Just get creative and have fun.
-Paul
Jay
If you are looking for a good riding 2" lift of so, consider OME (Old Man Emu) out of Australia. A bit pricier, but the ride is VERY VERY nice.
I'm not a huge fan of using stock springs any longer than ya have to. My 97's springs were sagging BAD. That 2.5" OME lift actually gave me over 3" over what I had previously, so I KNOW my springs were going south. Aftermarket springs tend to be a bit stronger IMO while providing a better ride.
If you can't swing OME, then I'd go RE.
-Paul
thoughts, recomendations, ideas and stories welcome, fire away.
Not sure there really are any great mufflers for the 4.0, but I've heard mention of a few. I can't recall their names, but I know CherryBomb was not on that list.
-Paul
thanks again,
al
p.s. eric your jeep is like, my jeep's hero haha
for a while now ive been thinking about putting camouflage fender flares on my jeeper, but i dont feel like spending 400+ bucks for a new set of fender flares. i have plenty of rolls of camouflage gun tape that i can buy at walmart for 4 dollars a roll, and i would like to take the flares off and wrap them in that stuff but it doesnt hold all too well (often times i have to rewrap my gun after one or two hunting trips). i was wondering if anyone knew either where i could get camo wrap paper for cheap, or if there were like some sort of clear wrap paper that i could cover the flares in after i tape them. or if there are any other techniques to do this job that are still cheap i would love to hear about them.
fire away guys!
-Big Al
Post pics if you go that route.
-Paul
I have had excellent results on my other vehicles from my Miata,chevy s-10 and Dodge pickup with the 360cid v8. do these items not work on the jeep?
Define fit?
Ideally, for offroad, you want at least 3" of lift (such as a 2" budget boost and 1" body lift) to give you room while flexing. You also have to consider your wheel's backspacing. Stock Jeep wheels are backspaced 5.5" and they'll rub the frame like crazy when turning.
If you go with Spidertrax wheel spacers or get wheels with 4" of backspacing, you'll be much better off.
-Paul
Tools needed:
Socket wrenches
Crescent wrenches
Jack stands
spring compressors (available at Autozone for rental - free when returned).
channel pliers (for swapping shocks)
floor jack
Misc screw drivers.
If you are changing brake lines you need to tools to bleed brakes as well. If you are swapping in a drop pitman arm (not really recommended for a 4" lift), you'll need a pitman arm puller. If you are doing a Slip yoke setup for the rear driveshaft, you'll need tools to adjust pinion angle on the rear axle, clip removal tools, etc.
I have no clue what is in the RC 4" lift, so I'm throwing out what you have to worry about:
1. Shock swap
2. Spring swap
3. Track bar installation to recenter axles left to right
4. Control arm replacement - setting castor
5. Bump stop installation
6. Brake line extensions to handle flex offroad
7. SYE/DS setup or transfer case drop
8. Engine and/or body lift.
I did my suspension lift in 1 day totally alone with zero help. No problems. I went slow and thought each step through.
When you finish, enjoy the fruits of your labor, but be sure to check EVERY bolt you touched during the process to ensure they are all back in place and SECURED to proper spec before driving it.
-Paul