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Jeep Wrangler Modifications

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Comments

  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    First, check legality of windshield light operation in your area. May be illegal.

    Secondly, if you are concerned about Bambi-hits, fogs would give you wider light dispersion than fogs. Windshield lights are general pencil or narrow beams for further projection on the trails.

    The trick about windshield lights is getting the wiring into the cab. I've seen wires routed under the cowl into the engine bay then in. I've seen wires just stuck between the door and tub.. There are a lot of ways to do it. Most harnesses that come with lights are too long for that location, so I ran my own.

    As far as tips, check for lights that do NOT have the glass around the outer edge (ie the back cover/housings enclose the lights). You'll have glare if you don't. Alternatives - stone guards to cover that glass edge.

    Here is what Hella's look like with no glare reduction technique.

    image

    I have IPF's on my windshield now. They have a glass ring too, but they also have IPF stone guards. For added shielding, I added a strip of black electrical tape under the stone guards.

    image

    image

    As for switches, mine are 100% independent of ANY other lighting. This gives me flexibility and it is not hardwired to any other lighting solution. My driving and fogs (and even my rear fogs are independent - however, the rears ALSO work with my reverse circuit.)

    I used simple on/off switches from CarlingContura purchased from www.otrattw.com.

    -Paul
  • Where did you run your wires at?

    Marc
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Wires were run behind the hinge and under the cowl cover. I drilled a hole at the FRONT of the cowl to run the wires into the engine bay then in to the cab through an existing hole/grommet setup to my switches inside.

    You can kinda see them here next to my wiper motor wiring... they are zipped together, but I have loom dedicated for the lighting.

    image

    -Paul
  • gavindxbgavindxb Posts: 5
    Good Day,

    Please could someone please give me some advise/ share their thoughts on my idea...

    I would like to know if one could fit side pipes to a Jeep Wrangler 93 Model.
    The vehicle has been raised and has big tyres fitted, thus ensuring that there is enough clearance.
    I live very close to the desert and have not as yet encountered many rocks in the area, although there are certain areas closer to Hatta (Oman) which are rocky.

    Would you advise this is a good type of system?
    Would it affect the performance of the vehicle in a negative manner?
    What is the maximum dia. pipe that could be fitted? I am not planning on fitting "branches" to the exhaust manifold, maybe later.

    This past weekend I went dune bashing and found myself on a 30deg incline, the clutch lost its pressure and fell flat to the floor, could this be as a result of air in the system? Where would be most logical place to start looking for a "leak", I have not checked the slave cylinder, and did not notice any leaks pertruding from the master cylinder? After the vehicle was stopped on a level area the pressure came back on the peddle. :)

    Your advise and views would be appreciated..
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I would like to know if one could fit side pipes to a Jeep Wrangler 93 Model......Would you advise this is a good type of system?
    Would it affect the performance of the vehicle in a negative manner?


    The original system is designed to give maximum ground clearance and protection.
    Changing to side pipes would reduce the ground clearance and make the system much more vunerable to impact damage.
    However, if you're just doing it for appearance then pick whatever is most pleasing to your eye.

    This past weekend I went dune bashing and found myself on a 30deg incline, the clutch lost its pressure and fell flat to the floor, could this be as a result of air in the system? Where would be most logical place to start looking for a "leak",

    It may just be a low fluid level, though it could be air in the system.
    Master cylinder, slave cylinder, and the connecting pipe are the only components, so check them all for leaks.
  • gavindxbgavindxb Posts: 5
    Thank you for your reply Mac24.

    As mentioned, the vehicle is raised by about 4 inches and has bigger tires fitted, I have about 50cm ground clearance, but I get your point and it will be considered before I make the final decision.

    Should I decide to stay with the standard rear exit exhaust system, do you perhaps know what is the maximum size of pipe I could use without compromising engine performance? I had a 2.8L BMW and the max I could go there was 60mm. I loved the sound it produced and I am hoping to achieve the same with this vehicle.. (I am a true petrol head, who needs a radio??)

    I shall start with the fluid, thank you for your advise! :)
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    edited April 2010
    Should I decide to stay with the standard rear exit exhaust system, do you perhaps know what is the maximum size of pipe I could use without compromising engine performance?

    You don't say which engine you have, but in general as you raise the exhaust diameter you reduce the backpressure, which in turn moves the point of maximum torque further up the rev scale while reducing the width of the torque band.

    I've no idea at what point performance starts to significantly degrade, but if the main purpose is to change the sound then I'd just go with whatever sounds the best to you. Even with 6" pipes it should still be driveable.
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Keep in mind, if you fit side pipes, you also run a risk of burning your legs pretty good getting in and out of your Jeep. I've seen it done on a thread in another forum, where a guy integrated side pipes into rocker guard protection, but it was a LOT of work to keep the heat from transferring from the pipe to the rest of the rocker guard.

    -Paul
  • gavindxbgavindxb Posts: 5
    Thank you for your sound advise. I guess I'll rather stick to the norm.
    I have a 4L straight 6 engine. :)
  • gavindxbgavindxb Posts: 5
    Thanks for the advise, I see that a couple of peeps have had this happen to them. I saw some pics of the "the quickest Jeep in the world". I noticed that on this particular vehicle the pipes were mounted underneath the body. This will contribute to heat being transfered to the body, which will eventually burn you one way or the other.

    I have another question...

    Does your Jeep also get VERY hot at the gearbox area? :confuse:
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    It gets hot because of the catalytic converter, which in my TJ is under the passenger seat (more like between the passenger seat and transmission tunnel). But yes, it gets hot in that area. I drove home from offroading last week and the passenger seat was really hot. As for the gearbox itself, I've never felt underneath to see how hot it was. The differentials can get pretty toasty after a highway run at speed (I'm running 4.88 gears too).

    -Paul
  • gavindxbgavindxb Posts: 5
    Thnks for the feedback. That is exactly where mine gets hot too.

    I am not sure wht i am running, but what i do know is that th car is standard, so what ever it had come off the showroom with, is the way it has remained.

    We are going dunebashing this weekend and we cannot wait.

    Safe driving, and thanks for the feedback
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Why not just line the interior with a bedliner and not worry about it? :)

    I did this to my TJ since I run a safari top or topless all summer.

    image

    image

    I know it doesn't solve your problem, but it makes cleaning and draining a LOT easier. I don't know why I waited so long to do this!!!

    -Paul
  • cwo2jakecwo2jake Posts: 1
    Just bought 2010 Wrangler Sport/Rubicon. Bought replacement fuel door. Seems easy enough, right? No holes on pre-existing fuel assembly insert. No apparent access from under fender wall. Any idea before I start popping the insert off? Is drilling required? Is this better handled by the pro's?
  • gmcdave2gmcdave2 Posts: 1
    Hello All, I need some help and would like to ask a few questions about installation of this product and tire size. I look forward to hearing your advice

    My Jeep is a 2006 Jeep T.J. Wrangler Rubicon.

    The Product - Warrior 2" coil spring spacer kit with shocks

    I have read that others have had problems installing coil spring spacers in the Rubicon models due to there being a difference in the bump stop diameter size from the Wrangler to the Wrangler Rubicon and a lathe might be needed. Is there any truth to this? Does anyone have any opinions on the quality of the shocks in the Warrior kit? What will I ask for down the road when buying replacement shocks seeing the are larger or so the kit clams? Should I also replace coil springs if the jeep has 88,000 miles?

    Tire fit question: I was hoping to run aggressive off road 33" tires with no worries of rubbing, any thoughts? Could you through out some suggestions for tire size using stock wheels and preferably no wheel spacers.

    Thank you All...............
  • erickplerickpl Posts: 2,735
    Bump stop diameter - shouldn't be a problem at all.

    No opinion on the quality of the kit. I went with new springs and shocks (OME).

    Just buy new shocks with longer length rod for a jeep lifted X inches. If you have to replace the springs, go with a real lift kit and don't worry about spacers.

    Tire fit. Rubbing will be in a couple of possible points. Wheel backspacing and tire width will determine rub WHILE TURNING. Rubicon wheels have 5" of BS. If you want to run 33x12.5's, you need new wheels with a lower backspacing number (3.75 to 4" of BS) or get wheel spacers like SPIDERTRAX. Rubbing at flex will occur offroad and rub the underside of the fenders. With a proper lift kit, 33" tires shouldn't rub with a 2" lift, but you may find a 1" body lift may be a good thing as well.

    I suggest moving this thread into the Jeep Modifications thread - you'll get a LOT more feedback that way.

    -Paul
  • ourjeeplifeourjeeplife Posts: 44
    edited February 4

    Not sure this quifys as a mod.. Added/Swapped tires, New Bestop half top system (bikini, windjammer & duster) then for added security, a slighty used plastic bed liner uner the duster cover which creates a hard shell storage area in the back of the jeep. Here is the most resent image taken spring 2013 just before heading out toa jeep show.

    As for the paintable bed liner.. going to line this up this spring sort of creating a party event so all those interested can take part in helping paint this on. Herculiner sent me a kit as a promo for their product.

  • jordan40jordan40 farmersville, nyPosts: 109

    if you want to do more modifications a magazine i look at called Petersen's 4x4 off road.

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