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Ford Windstar



  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    If you didn't disconnect negative battery cable before removal or during installation. it you may have subjected it to intermittent power when you disconnected it or reconnected it, The radio may have accidentally been ON when you reinstalled it.

    If the radio makes some noise, but no stations received, it may be the antenna wire is not installed or connector/wire got damaged during process.

    If its real dry and you've experienced any static shocks lately, google the web for ESD precautions when working with electronic devices. Your typical consumer electronics for your home is designed to eliminate this problem, but when you are doing your own technician work, things are different.

    Look for a replacement radio on the internet.
  • My '95 Windstar with a 3.8L has a power steering pump that moans - mostly when doing low-spped turns or when turning the wheel while not moving. It has plenty of fluid, and works OK, and other Ford products I've had also moaned - should I replace the pump, or just let it moan? Its not real loud, but sometimes is makes itself known when accelerating in a strainght line.
  • my engine coded, and will be fixed this week but i would like to know why the light would flash and not come on steady like i have seen?
  • jeffyscottjeffyscott Posts: 3,855
    As I recall, the owners manual says something like the flashing light means there is a significant problem and you should stop driving immediately to avoid damaging the engine.
  • Has anyone put snow cables/chains on the standard 225/60R16 Windstar tires? I have a trip planned that might need chains but I see that the owners manual specifically says not to put chains on these tires. Indeed the clearance between the tire and the spiral metal suspension component inside the wheelwell is very tight. Presumably you are supposed to fit smaller tires, e.g. 215/60R16, but that's a pain.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    You might want to consider a pair of "winter" tires for the front. I used to live in Pa. and before front wheel drive, chains were very common. With fwd all the weight over the tires improves traction. If fwd+snow tires doesn't make it, chains will probably not make it. Take a metal shovel and a bag of sand. Your biggest problem might be that the Windstar does not have much ground clearance.

    One drawback of chains is that the main roads might be clear and then you'll have to take them off.
  • I live in the SF Bay Area so only need to carry chains for the pass over I80 to Reno. When the CHP imposes chain controls you are not allowed on the road without chains or 4WD. I'm pretty sure I used chains on this vehicle way back in 2001 but they were installed for a fee by one of the professional chain installers. To me it looks impossible given the clearance. What I am assuming is that the chain (cable) probably rubs against the pad at the bottom of the steel coil but doesn't do any damage. Annoying as I just has new tires installed and I could have got 215/60R16. It pays to read the manual, although I am amazed that a US company would outfit a vehicle with tires that cannot take chains.
  • I purchased a 2003 Winstar SEL about a year ago. I have done the usual mechanical stuff to the van. Tune up, oil changes, etc. But I have been having some major problems with it. Started about a week after we left the lot. Have taken it to several mechanics and they have not been able to figure it out. The auto slidding doors wont unlock, open when you push the button, or close when you push the button. Does not happen all the time but most of the time. The interior lights flicker on and off at all different times. When I am at a stop light the motor sputters like it is not wanting to stay on. Kind of like it is not getting gas but everything flickers, radio and headlights for example. Can someone help please.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I don't know if this helps but I was working on my 96 Windstar and had to remove and reinstall alternator. The control wire was loose and during test drive I began to notice weird electrical symptoms. Vehicle will try to run off battery if alternator not putting out sufficient current. In my case it quit before I got home. Recharged battery and secured control connector. It was OK.

    If you really like it(engine/ride/trans/paint OK) one option is to replace alternator and battery and go from there. Alternator problems can be tricky. On my Windsar, alternator is easy to get to. You will need a special tool to remove serpentine belt.

    I've owned 2 Fords. Each had power window or power lock actuators replaced. If a button control assembly is bad you can get one from a salvage yard. I use a body shop. I'm a DIYer but not for doors,locks, and windows.

    Always disconnect (-) of battery before working on any electrical system.
  • i have a 1999 Ford Windstar SEL and was having the same problems my overdrive would turn off when i was goin down the highway to. the problem is a throttle body module. I got one for fifty bucks at a salvage and havent had any more problems
  • mnseattlemnseattle Posts: 2
    edited March 2010
    In my 2003 Ford Windstar SEL, I have VCP with overehead Monitor and I am replacing it with a overhead DVD player with monitor. The DVD player I got has RED(+12V)-WHITE(Doomlight to GND)-BLACK(GND) wiring plus a long green wire (most likely for FM transmitter). however the existing configuration has RED-BLACK-BLACK-GREEN-BLUE wiring . Does anyone know how I connect the wires (i.e. which one goes where?)

    Thanks a lot in advance.
  • fixeddailyfixeddaily Posts: 11
    edited April 2010
    The 2002 Windstar SEL I have was running terribly. I had it checked out at a Meineke, and it needed a new ignition coil pack, EGR valve, and a lower intake manifold. I'm not certain, but I think a smoke test revealed the problem with the lower intake manifold. I installed a new ignition coil pack and EGR valve, and it runs a lot better, but it still runs somewhat rough when at idle and the engine is cold. I'm not sure if it's cracked or if it's a vacuum leak, but the lower intake manifold is made of plastic. My friend had a Thunderbird, and he told me Ford replaced the intake manifold when it had a problem. The car wasn't under warranty but Ford fixed it for free. Has anyone else had success with getting this replaced for free, even when the warranty is expired?

  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    Try replacing your idle air control valve. This component is critical for maintaining a steady idle. If it malfunctions your tachometer will be noticeably unsteady.

    Check for vacuum leaks. How ? Any emission control that uses vacuum is a potential source for a vacuum leak. Inspect all hoses, especially ones near the block that get a lot of heat. Replace if suspicious.

    Sometimes you can test a peripheral by disconnecting vacuum hose and plugging it with a pencil at the periperal end. If it idles better, the periperhal is faulty because its not suppose to be open when engine is idling.

    On the windstar you may have to remove the upper and lower cowl to work on it plus maybe a duct or 2. Make sure you disconnect windshield washer line from upper cowl before pulling it. Otherwise you may break off a nozzle like I did.

    If your intake manifold has a gasket, try replacing it.

    If all else fails, get the Haynes manual and do every emission control check. You will need a voltmeter.

    It's very a possible that your problem is caused by a collection of faults so repairing a single item will not give dramatic improvement.
  • I bought a ford windstar 2000 the passenger door was replaced with out the power window and lock switch. I went to a scrap yard and found the right switch and replaced it myself. it worked intermittently and then suddenly I lost all power windows and the radio. I have checked the main fuses and they are still good. does anyone know a method of trouble shooting this problem.
  • rwengrrwengr Posts: 177
    I replaced a pwr window motor on my 96 Windstar so this may help. First, understand removing door panel, weather seal, etc. is a pain but you can do it. You need a digital voltmeter with long narrow probes. Disconnect the electrical connector from pwr window motor. You need to know the pinout of the connector so you can probe the right pin. GND on the meter connects to vehicle GND. Press the button to lower the window. If you see 12V on the meter, the problem is the motor or the mechanism. If no 12V, it's an electrical problem (switch, wiring, etc)

    If 12V OK, swapping out the motor is much easier so do that first. Beware I swapped out my motor and the window worked for a while and then stopped working so now I need to replace the mechanism. If you replace the mechanism yourself you risk breaking the glass . I am a DIYer but I may pay to get that done.

    The radio has gotta be a coincidence unless the wiring or a fuse are related. You may want to check the fuse again with with an ohmeter or just replace it if you are relying on a visual inspection. Sometimes it's hard to see where it's blown.
  • koetzkoetz Posts: 1
    How many recalls are there on the 2000 Ford Windstars? I just received one for the front subframe lower control arms rear attaching flanges, and both rear body mounts. This recall notice has RED FLAG all over it for me as I live in Minnesota, where SALT is used extensively for 6 months of the year. I had also received another recall for the rear axle last year. I also did a Google search, and from the way it looks, I could get the van re-built, by recalls alone. At no cost to me.
  • jd5dadjd5dad Posts: 1
    its the cheap plastic gear that flips it from heat to cold
  • I have a friend with a the same van who is having the same problem when he fills his tank it takes forever and a lot of gas gets spilled I took a look at the fill tube and can't see any kinks in it .
  • Back up lights do not work. We have replaced all parts suggested and check the ground is good. Where is the fuse panel for them? Not the one inside the van.
  • nanster59nanster59 Posts: 1
    My Windstar suddenly started running rough... just before I was going to sell it, of course. My mechanic looked it over and finally found the leak. It will cost $400 when when they have time, and that price will include the labor to find the leak. The dealer, without ever seeing it wants $600. I hate that I have to pay this for a van I want to get rid of. And, now I see there is a recall on vans that originated in the upper east (this one did) so I have to look for a rusting underbody, plus the tranny has a recall for a problem when in reverse. Sheesh, why doesn't Ford work on being better. I've considered looking into an Escape or Focus, but now I have to hesitate.
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