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Pontiac Grand Am

19798100102103126

Comments

  • desichickdesichick Posts: 3
    My battery died, and once I gave it a jump start, I couldn't get the radio to work. I bought the car used, and when I tried the password given, it wouldn't work. Now, whenever I try, all I get is an INOP sign. No matter, how long it's been since I last tried. Anyway, if anyone has had this problem can you tell me what you did?

    And if you went to a car dealer, how much did they charge?
    Thanks.
  • artemis13artemis13 Posts: 4
    I had the same problem, so I went to the dealer. After twenty minutes, they gave me back my keys and told me to have a good day. No payment was involved. So I simply say to you: Go to the dealer. It SHOULD be free, as it was for me. I mean, it's possible they'll charge you, but as I said, I got mine fixed for free, so hopefully you will, too.
  • green5green5 Posts: 22
    I have a question. How much reliable is the grandam from the acrua tl? Has anyone had any trouble as far as DIY maintance? with the 2003 to 2004?
  • switcherswitcher Posts: 1
    I have a 1996 Grand Am with a 2.4 that dies as soon as it starts. It's kind of a weird problem I have never encountered before. You turn the key, the fuel pump whirls, it starts, runs 1 or 2 seconds and then dies. If you try to restart it without turning the key to the full off position it will not restart but if you turn it all the way off you can restart it for 1 or 2 seconds until you are blue in the face. I have traced and cleaned all fuel lines as well as detached the fuel rail and placing a cup under each injector. Fuel will spit out as long as you crank it. I have verified a spark at each plug and as well as that all the fuses are good. Any ideas?
  • My Grand Am was disabled recently by a issue in the igntion switch. The dealer ship has not left me with feeling of confidence in the issue. He started out by telling me that it was the keys, the sensors needed to be reprogramed. Later telling me that they were mistaken that keys didn't have sensors in them. They would have to hook it up to a computer at 55.00 a hour to find the issue. A hour an a half later they decided it was probably a part called a pass lock sensor. A 400.00
    gizmo to replace. I ask what it does and they said it scans the key to verify before allowing they motor to start. What does it scan, there is no sensor in these keys, I said, the grooves.
    I mean time I've discovered 2-3 other people who have had the same issue on similiar cars, one person is on his second sensor in three months and all are as uncertain about the issue as I am. Has anyone else experienced this problem. Also, I've been told that this sensor can be bypassed. :mad:
  • rorytaterorytate Posts: 21
    I havea 1994 standard grand am
    Last night on the way home it started to over heat, i felt the hot air blowing out of the vents. Once tha was happening we noticed the water temp gauge rising very quickly. We ended up pulling over in a lot and notice it was POURING coolant out of the L shaped house at the back of the engine housing area (firewall).
    Less than 2 weeks ago we had teh water pump replaced.
    Any Ideas? The sooner the better...
    :mad:
  • rorytaterorytate Posts: 21
    As i was trying to open the hood, the cable snapped. Temporary fix for it is pliers, but i want to know what would be involved in replacing the cable, am I able to just pull that cable out and string a new one through the sheath thats there?
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    You might want to repost both of these messages in our Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion - someone there may be able to help. Good luck!
  • rorytaterorytate Posts: 21
    ok thanks for the help! I've posted them there ;)
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Good and good luck with the problems - let us know how it goes.
  • desichickdesichick Posts: 3
    hey everyone,

    I just wanted to say that taking my grand am to the dealer was the best thing. He took care of it right in front of me. It didn't even take 2 minutes. I found out the previous owner gave me the wrong code. Thanks for all your help.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    That's great to hear - thanks for letting us know.

    And don't be a stranger! :)
  • rorytaterorytate Posts: 21
    Did the by pass on the heatercore
    and i'm still working on getting the cable fitted. someone said they had teh same problem and tied a string to the one end of the old one, and one to the new end and pulled it all the way through..sounds like what i want to do.!
  • iqalamiqalam Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I have a 2002 Grand Am SE, and for some reason my heater switch will only work on the 4 and 5 notches, not 1, 2 or 3. This happened suddenly one day. Does anyone know what may be casueing this? And is there a quick fix?

    Thanks in advance.
    IqalAm
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    Blower motor resistor. It's been discussed here time and again. Do a search for it here and on the Olds Alero forum for all the details.
  • ozarkozozarkoz Posts: 1
    The "new" (relative term) cars that are computer controlled require a certain voltage to perform as they should. The GM "threshold" is 9 volts +/-. When your electrical system drops below the 9 volt +/- minimum, you will see all kinds of things happen. Your computer can't effectively operate and it will throw all kinds of dash lights and radio problems your way. My 98 Grand Am experienced this some time ago and I found that my alternator was shot. Easy check ... Take a digital multimeter and read the battery voltage with the car turned off; should be 13 plus volts. Have someone else crank the car up and you watch the meter, voltage will drop but shouldn't hit the 9 volt mark when cranking. Once running the voltage should pretty much return to 13.5 - 14 volts (approx). Also try turning on your headlights and you should see a very, very quick drop and recovery of the voltage then try the a/c and the same should happen. If your voltage does not return to 13.5 + volts your battery could be the problem but I'd bet on the alternator. Take the car to any car parts dealer and they will test your battery free, with it still in the car. Oh, to get an accurate test result, charge your battery before going to the auto parts store. Hope this helps some. :)
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    The battery should read 12.6V nomally when at rest. Higher if it's just been under charge, but it will settle to 12.6V.
  • spunk1965spunk1965 Posts: 7
    :cry: I started out with an '89 Grand Am (which would not die!), then move up to a 1994 and again to a 1998 GT (my son totaled the 1994). I have to say it seems that the older models were much better. I have been diligent with the normal maintenance/repairs but I can certainly add some stuff to your list. My 1998 has nickled and dimed me to death. I wished I had realized GM was on strike then!!
    The window regulators, one by one , went first starting with my '94 (almost $$$$400 a piece), the brake dust on the rims looks awful, I do feel every little bump/pothole in the road, the plastic gizmos in the interior have been popping off left and right, and now at about the 100,000k mark we have an electrical problem; one of the fuses under my hood keeps blowing. Consequently, I have no get up and go, the coolness of the AC disappears and once in PARK will not shift out of gear until I change the fuse.
    I was once a very loyal Grand Am owner but I'm having second thoughts.
  • spunk1965spunk1965 Posts: 7
    Can I ask if you have a remote car starter? I had a similar experience only the garage I dealt with was smart enough to call the dealership to get a code to by pass the thing-a-majig. Originally, they had asked me if I had a spare dealership issued key...that didn't work. However, the mechanic told me that if it should happen again to turn the key (without actually starting it) and let it sit for about 10 minutes then it should turn over. That was about a year ago and I haven't had any problems since but he did tell me it had to do with the installation of the remote car starter. When that was installed they have to bypass something and that was what screwed things up that particular time. I hope this helps...I really miss the days when cars were simple!
  • spunk1965spunk1965 Posts: 7
    I'm hoping maybe you solved my problem. I have a fuse (under the hood) that controls the get up and go, the A/C coolant (blower works but not cool air), and when I put the car in park it stays there until I change the fuse again. I can only hope it's something as simple as that. It's worth a shot. Thanks. :D
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