Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Pontiac Grand Am



  • patpat Posts: 10,421
  • 04gtsct04gtsct Posts: 1
    My XM radio crackled while driving and the XM Band no longer worked until I turned off the engine and restarted the engine. The second thing. While driving in the rain the wipers stopped working. Again I had to restart the engine for the wipers to work. Service Dept says there are no error codes and they do not have a clue. Anyone have this problem or have any answers to share. The stereo is a Monsoon brand
  • bhaley1bhaley1 Posts: 1
    hi i have a 2000 grand am. this morning when i went to start the car the heat wouldnt turn on. im guessing maybe the blower? any ideas? the car is not covered with a warrenty and i really have no cash to send to the dealer. thanks
  • free_bsdfree_bsd Posts: 9
    Has anyone been successful in quieting down the ticking sound on startup with the 3.4L engines; by using either Synthetic oil or some other “snake oil” additive?
  • phielixphielix Posts: 1
    My 99 Grand Am SE has a constant problem with the tail light fuse. It doesn't blow but pops out just enough to lose connection. I have had it tested and the amps are okay, checked/changed the headlight bulbs and checked wiring diagram. The headlight switch was giving me problems. I've changed the headlight switch and it corrected the problem for awhile but it is back again. Does anyone have any info on this? I continue to have to push the fuse back in for it to work. My fan has stopped working at level 1 and 2 and through reading this site I found someone corrected the problem with replacing a relay. Might that relay also affect the fuse for the taillights? Has anyone had problems similar to mine?
  • I hope a 3.4 V6 owner can help me here. I tried posting on the Alero site to no avail. Thanks in anticipation. Ian

    My wife's April 02 Alero 3.4 has a problem with the Dexcool Antifreeze in the expansion tank. The car has done 36000 miles and each week when I check the expansion tank level, there is brown sludge on the base of the cap and at the top of the tank. I flushed the expansion tank and refilled with 50:50 solution as instructed of fresh Dexcool to no avail. As Dexcool is supposed to last for 150,00 miles or 5 years I'm confused. I've never used Dexcool before, surely this sludge should not happen. Can anyone help? There is no fluid loss by the way.
  • joe3891joe3891 Posts: 759
    to 36K take it back to the dealer and ask them if they will repair it under warranty,they know the drill.
  • nybill38nybill38 Posts: 12
    Listen to the cardoc on on sunday mornings from 10 to noon eastern....replace that dexcool as soon as you can...that stuff is junk...replace it with the standard 50/50 antifreeze. Dexcool causes seal problems and that sludge you are speaking of is probably oil. This is a known problem especially on the 3.4
  • mikey00mikey00 Posts: 462
    I wouldn't be to quick to blame the Dexcool. There have been some known problems with certain engines and Dexcool (mostly due to radiator caps and their design placement) but the 3.4 in the Alero/GrandAm is not one of these. Remember GM uses Dexcool and although some are having problems, there are millions of cars on the road using it without any problems. A larger than expected number of Alero/GrandAm 3.4's do experience an intake manifold gasket leak problem. Again this doesn't mean that all Alero/GrandAm 3.4's will experience the leak. Usually the intake manifold leak will show up as Dexcool on the outside of the engine or on the floor. I guess oil could also leak back into the Dexcool and cause the sludge on the cap.
    My Alero 3.4 has 47K and 4 years on it now with the original Dexcool. I don't see any intake manifold gasket leak or sludge on the cap yet, but I will always keep an eye on it. Next year when I hit 5 years, I will have the engine flushed and new Dexcool installed for another 5.
  • montanafanmontanafan Posts: 945
    From my readings, I believe that Dexcool isn't very forgiving to people with poor maintenace habits. It reacts differently when it is allowed to run low then traditional anti-freeze. Much of the deposits seen, land at the radiator cap, giving someone a biased view of the whole cooling system. Check the fliud level at fuel fills, like the book says. And have the cap check at regular servicing.
  • albundyalbundy Posts: 3
    First I'd like to buy a coupe w/ std features only
    i don't need the performance package
    My target price is $16,000 (plus fees and tax)
    and I think I could get it.
    I was just quoted $17000 something after all the cashback and incentives but I think by July they'll be an extra hidden incentive in order to push the car out the door
    But I may have to order the car I want.
    When does production stop?
    I heard May and I heard end of July.
    The salesmen won't tell me of course.
    The Alero is a cheaper alternative..but I don't feel good about that car.
    The grand am and Alero are the only coupes in which I like the chassis.
  • 1000am1000am Posts: 1
    i am planning on turbocharging my 97 GA 2.4L. i was wondering if anyone has turbocharged their GA and had any pointers. right now i am going to use a garret super60 with a .48 AR on the turbine. i plan on using a top mounted intercoller and a small hood scoop to cool it. if anyone has hints or do's and/or do nots please share.
  • Wait until the G6 comes out this year, then watch the Grand-Am price drop like stone and get a deal bearing in mind that your Grand-Am will have not so good residuals when you come to sell it.
    I understand your comments about the Alero as that will have the same problem with residuals as Olds is being phased out of course. But, you can get a great deal on the Alero V6 now. We bought one for my wife. 15 months old, 20,000 miles for $10700 (factory warranty too). Inevitably it was an ex-rental, but we are very pleased with it. We had a 2.4 Grand-Am prior to that (1996), my wife loved that car too.
  • fast68fast68 Posts: 6
    all of a sudden for no reason at all the injectors have stopped injecting fuel,

    we just recently installed new fuel pump and spark plug wires and spark plugs and fuel filter, and we have pressure in the intake fuel rail and very strong spark at the plugs,

    this car always ran excellent and it just died and hasnt ran since, is not injecting fuel so we are now stumped, maybe its the cam sensor ?
    we ruled out failure of crank sensor since it is receiving spark at proper times and is a hot blue spark.

    i was told if resistance is wrong in one of the injectors then that none will get signal from ECM to fire, is this true ?

    thanks for anything i appreciate it
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    is an open invitation to have your inbox flooded with spam.

    It's far better to just make your email address public in your profile and invite folks to check it. Members have to be logged in to see other members' profiles and that fact hides the information from the spam bots.

    Just a suggestion...
  • albundyalbundy Posts: 3
    Hi thanks for the response
    Yeah..but I only want a black coupe
    that may be hard to locate in the Tri-state area
    They may give me a better deal on a different color just to get it off the lot, but I'll turn it down.
    I spoke to the salesman, he said..alright i'll call you back in June, he explained he'd be making about $75 commission at the least, but a sale is a sale.
    He said he could take about $1000 off the MSRP
    Okay...So July is a good time to buy , not June..I'm afriad the incentives will vanish
  • I bought a used 1993 Pontiac Grand Am Se, 115,000 original miles, six months ago for $2000. Once I bought the car, I spent $1,000 for
    new tires, allignment, and other accessories because I had to travel 200 miles to a different state. The car drove pretty good, except at the highway toll, the engine stops running and I had to start the engine to have the car running again.
    Afterwards, I wanted to return back to my original state, so I took my car to the mechanic to have this problem fixed. He changed the brakes, shocks, sensors for gears, complete tuning, oil change,
    etc, etc, and charged me more than $1400 for parts and labor. Now, the car problem that I orginally had is even worse. Now when I stop at the toll, the engine turns off, and after I start the engine and the moment I put the car in the gear, the engine turns off again and it continues unless I put my left foot on the brake, and right foot on the gas, and give a lot of gas at the same time that I change the gear to drive, while slowly releasing the brake. Then the car zooms forward and then it runs normally until the next toll on the highway, or at any other stop, hense I have to drive the car on the right lane only.
    I can also correct this problem by putting the car in reverse gear
    while one foot is on the gas, and the other is on the brake, for
    even an inch, and the problem gets corrected.
    If the car is driven on the highway for more than 50 miles per hour,
    even for couple of minutes, this problem occurs because it thinks
    that it is at the highest gear and that's why if I reduce the speed to
    5 miles per hour, it starts giving jerks and eventually, the engine
    turns off. Could you advise me on how to get this problem fixed.
    Other than that, the car drives exceptionally well, and the car looks
    pretty brand new.

    Your help is greatly appreciated,
  • I currently have a 92 chev cavalier wagon that had that pronlem with the gear locking and the engine shutting off. What the problem is (and i guess its a older gm cars) is that the relay for the auxilary drive is bad. The aux. drive kicks in once the car is warmed up and is travaling more than 40 mph. When i got the part its was pretty cheap and a quik mechanic fix. Hope this helped you and if it doesnt u cant say i didnt
    -peace out
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,521
    Wow, this board has really gone dead. Anyway, about three weeks ago my 99 SE1 was rear ended (hard) on the I405 in SoCal by a new minivan with an unattentive driver. The damage was extensive (front and rear) and the insurance totalled the car. So I started looking for something else, at first at late model used. I really couldn't find anything I liked, so I used Buy Power and ended up with a new GT1 with Appearance Package PCH (chrome alloy wheels, leather interior, XM radio)
    at $19,012 (this includes all rebates) before tax, fees, registration. White with dark gray interior, 4 dr sedan.
    There's a lot of good competition out there, but I tried it and even though they advertise more refined higher HP under the hood, they still don't have the low end grunt that the old OHV V6 does. It reminded me of driving my old 2.8L 280SE Mercedes, it will move but you have to keep your foot in it. I don't buy this complaint about no manual option available with the V6. It just doesn't seem necessary with the performance of automatics today, at least on the road.
    It's my third GA (still have the 95!)and I know it won't be completely problem free, but then what isn't?
    I looked the GTO over real hard (impressive), but at 41K (5K dealer mark up!)it just wasn't a viable daily driver for me.
  • I own a '99 Grand Am SE 4 door with a 3.4 liter V6 engine. I have no Idea on what different parts I need to soup up my car. So far I've looked up performance chips, Intakes and performance accessory catalogs. I can't find any catalogs focusing on pontiac's. The performance chips seem cool but I'd really appreciate any advise on choosing a good one. That also goes the same for any good intakes. If anyone knows about other parts to beef up my car please let me know. I basically want to make a list of what parts I can have (no matter how small and insignificant they may be). I can figure out how to install them later. Please e-mail any helpful hints and info to Thank You.
Sign In or Register to comment.