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Pontiac Grand Am

19394969899126

Comments

  • kintyroekintyroe Posts: 1
    Id like to say that i love GM especially my car but right now i have a problem with a tensioner and a water pump when i go to work it over heats very easily id give it at least 25mins before i have to stop and take a break (or put it into neutral and turn off the car while it keeps going) aside that its Black with red stripes a lil bit of rust by above the tires. what im going to do is first fix that problem, then im going to get a body kit for it, get a new paint job it will be glossy black with baby blue and blue flames and the side of it. i already have Street Glow blue neon lights installed with a Phoenix Digital 1200 amp (lights up blue) , 1 800 Xploder subwoofer i also sanded down some of the dash board parts with a friend paint them with Vinyl spray blue, Panasonic Cd player (neon blue face plate) and ill be doing more stuff later on. can someone provide me a link to a good place with good body kits of my make.
  • I have a 97 Grand AM GT. I have replace the starter and ignition switch and I was told that it my be the companies anti theft system...... How could I find out if that is the problem? :mad:
  • utsportsutsports Posts: 2
    hello first question is the theft light on,, if so, the theft security system is shutting the car down , heres what you need to try get in the vehicle and shut all the doors
    and dont open them till you complete this process put the key in the ignition and start the car when the car dies leave the key in the same position that would be the run position for at least 10 minuate then cut the key to the off position this procedure should reset your theft system then try to restart the vehicle if the car still dies and the theft light is still on then the tumbler my be bad thats where the theft module is located that what i was told at GM service but you needs to call GM service just to make sure of the location you can get a tumbler with key at a salvage yard for about 30 to 40 dollars hope the first procedure works for you and if you get a tumbler with key you will probably have to do the procedure to reset the theft security system with the new tumbler
  • utsportsutsports Posts: 2
    hello also why did you have to replace the ignition switch in the first place was it bad or was the vehicle shutting down and you thought it was bad or did someone tell you that was the reason for the car shutting down just curious
    michael knox tn
  • I replaced the ignition switch and starter because that is what two different mechanics said was the problem for the car not starting. I have had really bad luck with mechanics and have sunk a lot of money into this car. I appreciatee your advice and will let you know what happens..... Thanks.... Heather Daytona Beach, Fl
  • tuff289tuff289 Posts: 2
    change the crankshaft position sensor
  • brndnbrndn Posts: 1
    i have a 97 grand am gt it died today going around the corner when i restart it runs extremly ruff and wont stay running.Any idea where to start? Will a code be stored? I dont know if the engine light tried to come on because it was already on for 1840 transmission problem.
  • bobjackbobjack Posts: 1
    Hello. I have a 1994 Grand Am 2.3 quad 4 and I am trying to replace the starter. The first bolt loosened up easily enough but I can't reach the second bolt. Any advice? Thank you. Bob
  • dalsteindalstein Posts: 5
    Hey, this is the first time ive looked at these forums and was amazed to see my problem dealt with. I'm pretty sure that my 1999 grand am SE 2.4 L is doing the same thing. The noise that i hear is like a "humming" sound coming from the front end. When i drive faster the noise becomes higher pitched, and when i slow down it lowers. Is this the same problem you were having with your car? Do you have everything fixed as of now? Thanks, id really appreciate the help as this noise is driving me insane.
  • rynlds05rynlds05 Posts: 1
    I have a White Grand Am Gt, 3.2 engine. I just bought this car and I am having a big problem with the car. My car will get hot, but there is no sign of overheating!! I mean the car red lines and then shuts down. The heat stop working all of a sudden. I half to keep filling up the over flow. But my cap that goes on the overflow is broke and it's soppose to get 15 PSI, will that cause the the car to get hot if it is broken. We had the theromostat change and I have no clue what else it could be!! Would someone please let me know if thay have an idea?
  • vern2vern2 Posts: 6
    Subject: "96" pontiac grand am, 2.4l dohc,idi ignition, fuel injected, 91,000 miles. automatic trans.

    Problem: Engine light came on about a week ago,( i have been worikng on it this long),
    I took the car to an auto parts store to have the code read. it said that # 2 had a misfire, ok fine what could this be, i said to myself, also asked the tech at the store. "It could be many things" lets start with the easiest and cheapest. I replaced the sparkplugs, same thing, replaced both of the coils, (one tested bad), it drove for about 20 mles and the light came on again. back to the store, had it read, this time it was multi cylinder misfire asked this tech who did the the test, (different guy this time) he was dumber than a box of rocks and could not tell me jack, absolutley no help whats so ever. :mad: ok back to the problem, so i go home and look through the repair manual and did the all test like it said and came up with the idi ignition modual bad.
    So i went to the auto parts store and had it tested, it ran through 6 test and failed it twice, bought a modual, installed it, drove less than 10 miles, and it is now misfireing again. every time I replace a part it will run like this: starts good, sounds good, drives good for a short distance and repeats this vicious cycle. what i have not replaced yet, coil cover, and the what would be called plugwires, and cranksensor. so far I have sunk about $250.00 in to this ill fated atemp to repair this, hit and miss and test and replace cat and mouse game.

    Oh yeah, everytime i replace something i remove the negitive battery cable first and it is the last thing i put back on before i start the car. what do you think i need to do now? :confuse:
    thanks in advance,
    Vern.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hi vern2, welcome!

    You might want to try the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion also ... good luck!
  • Couple of quick questions. Do you have the 6 cylinder or 4 cylinder engine? Is your check engine light on steady or flashing? A steady check engine light idicates a power train or emissions related problem and a flashing check engine light indicates an engine misfire.
  • vern2vern2 Posts: 6
    where is the cranksaft sensor located? :confuse:
  • vern2vern2 Posts: 6
    found the crankshaft sensor, Checked it out and it is fine. took the new IDI ignition module in for a test, and it tested bad. ( Just because it's new doesn't mean it works) but it is a life time warranty, so off I go to replace the module, I'm getting good at swapping this thing out, I think I can do one in about 15 minutes or less now. For those of you that don't know where the crankshaft sensor is, it is located just behind the starter, right at the tail end of it, and just above the oil filter, you can't really see it unless you move the hose going to the air/oil separator. I hope that helps anyone with the same problem. Wish me luck guys I hope this is all I have to do to get this on the road. ;)
  • cricket2cricket2 Posts: 16
    Hey, I feel your pain. :mad: I have a 1999 Grand Am SE that I bought brand new in '98. However, I haven't had the problems you've had but believe me I've had my share of front end troubles. I have had the rotors, brake pads, struts, mounts replaced twice in that car. My mirror on the passenger side is loose as well. It now has 97K on it but I will NEVER buy another Grand Am again.
  • splicesplice Posts: 1
    you need to look at some thing's here. One are you seeing your coolent on the ground after it has been setting all day. If so is it on the side (pasnger) closer to the frount of the car of in the middle closer to the back of the eng.? up frount on side you need to check your water pomp and get a cap for that over flow tank. in the back of eng in middle check to see if there is water in the pasnger side floor bord. if so you need to have you heater coil replaced. thats is what i am thinking it is. sorry for the spelling not that good at it need more help let me know!! and hope this helps
  • Changing the heater core is a real pain in the butt. That is why a garage charges so much to do the job. Essentially you have to crawl under the car and remove 2 bolts that hold the cover in place in the car. That is the easy part. Next you have to remove the shifter knob, the the instrument/dash panel facia to gain access to the HVAC (heater/air conditioning) ducting. Remove the Heater housing cover and disconnect the ducts from the left and right dash ball vents and the lower ducts that go to the rear passenger area. Then remove the cover for the heater core. Then the core. Putting it back together is just the reverse. Like I said, this is not a fun task. I have done it on my 97 GA SE which is exactly like your 98. As far as using the Air Conditioning, No problem. A defective core will not affect the Air Conditioning.

    Mike
  • gigingigin Posts: 8
    I would check to see if the coolant fan comes on, IF not may be solonoid on fire wall. If It is staying cool on the highway it seems not enough air going over radiator. Check the coolant fan with A/C on also,should come on with A/C.
  • gigingigin Posts: 8
    sounds like a wheel bearing, most times the noise will be loudest going around curves in one direction, but go away when you go around a curve in the opposite direction.
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