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Buick Century

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  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    My 2000 century started leaking in the trunk when it rains. Last night I got in the trunk and had my kid shine a flood lamp around the lid gasket. I didn't detect anything but the water is getting in some how. Any experience in this matter?
    Thanks
  • Karen_CMKaren_CM Posts: 5,012
    A reporter in Southern California is looking to interview a retiree who has been very loyal to the Buick brand over the years, right up to the present. Please send an e-mail to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, March 22, 2006 containing your daytime contact information and a few words about the topic of interest.

    Thanks,
    Jeannine Fallon
    Corporate Communications
    Edmunds.com

    Community Manager If you have any questions or concerns about the Forums, send me an email, karen@edmunds.com, or click on my screen name to send a personal message.

  • baveuxbaveux Posts: 175
    My turn, my Century have a drinking problem !!! Unbelievable how GM can be slow to correct a known problem for the last 15 years.
  • vicmatvicmat Posts: 1
    My 2002 with only 90,000 km (approx. 55,000 miles) lost it's coolant, so I filled it up, but now it's low again...talked to my corner mechanic, who laughed and said it's the intake manifold leaking into the engine... he does 4 or 5 a month (all Buick Centuries with 80-110 km on them)for about $800. This is CRAP! I think GM should take some responsibility...No wonder their stock is plummeting...I'll bet they will be out of business in 10 years (or bought out by Kia...)
    Vic
  • The issue you had with the Buick Century wiper blades stoppiong straight up is over 5 years old. I was wondering if you ever found the solution to this problem. My mother has a 1998 Buick Century with the very same issue.
  • agiorgioagiorgio Posts: 2
    We just had to have the #6 fuel injector replaced. We had an intermittent "Service Engine Soon" light for a few months, and I could feel the engine "missing" at times. A few weeks ago, the problem suddenly got a lot worse, and the #6 cylinder stopped firing completely. The vibration at idle was very noticeable, and the SES light started flashing.

    We had the faulty injector replaced, and the engine smoothed right out. The SES light is no longer illuminated.
  • I am new to this forum and find all the information very helpful. Here is my problem and maybe I can get a response by YURAKM or any of the other Buick know-it-alls (he!he!he!)

    1. My daughter used the passenger control for her a/c needs this weekend and after sometime we noticed her side of the floor was wet. It didn't smell and it looked like condensation maybe. I lifted the mat and it looked like sweat and the floor under the mat and on top of the mat was damp. Also, every time I made a left turn, the a/c made a noise like a screeching sound. Any suggestions? :confuse:
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Any one install a xm radio in a Century before? What's the best way to run the antenna wire?
    Thanks
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Another chronic problem buick has is the transmission. My 2000 Century at 56k started shifting hard. From what I read, the valve body is made of softer material than the piston that controls pressure. After a while the piston seal leaks pressure and requires a repair kit with sleeve. Like you said, GM needs to start taking responsibility for poor engineering and do the right thing. Or maybe they plan on merging with Yugo.
    John
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    I've read in some places where the rubber tube that directs the condensed water from the evaporator sometimes gets a kink in it or is misdirected into the front passenger foot well. Inasfar as the screeching noise is concerned, does it only happen when the A/C is on? It could be a myriad of things, including a serpentine belt slipping against a sticking pulley on the A/C compressor. Or perhaps it is time to check if the A/C refrigerant needs recharging. The refrigerant acts not only as a cooling agent, but as a lubricant as well. Good luck, and please let us know how it all turns out.
  • Yes, the screeching noise is heard only when the A/C is on. I will get it checked out this weekend and let you know what it turned out to be. Thx.
  • buickloverbuicklover Posts: 15
    What were your symptoms? I have a 2000 Buick Century and it feels like it misses around 40Mph and again at highway speeds I can feel a surging, bucking or missing. I think it may be a fuel injector, but I was just curious what kind of sypmtoms you had.

    Thanks,
    Troy
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    I'm not the one who posted the original "Clogged Fuel Injector" post, but it reminds me of the time I neglected to use Techron Fuel Injector Cleaner for over a year in my Buick Regal. Cost $200 (including engine diagnostic charge) to have the fuel injectors cleaned out. Since then I pour a bottle of Techron into my gas tank every time I do an oil change. Engine runs fine. :shades:
  • buickloverbuicklover Posts: 15
    I just recently had the entire fuel system cleaned at the dealership, as I have seen this make a huge difference in other cars that I have owned with the 3.1 V6. After reading another post last night, I am going to remove the plugs that I purchased and installed about a month ago (Bosch double plat) and replace with AC Delco. If that doesn't fix it, I'm going to take it in and have it looked at. I'm starting to think I might have a clogged fuel injector that only acts up when engine RPM is low (i.e. idle and on the highway at cruising speed.) What brand of fuel injector cleaner do you use?

    Thanks!
  • buickloverbuicklover Posts: 15
    I've had some problems with my car missing and bucking at 40Mph & 70-75Mph and thought it might have been a clogged fuel injector. Today, I replaced the Bosch plugs that I had installed about a month ago with AC Delco Platinum plugs. What a difference! The car idles smoother and runs 100% better than before. When I returned the plugs to Advanced Auto Parts, the gentleman told me that I should have never installed the Bosch plugs in my car. Of course this was a different guy than the one who sold me the plugs, but he said that they only work good in foreign vehicles (Bosch Platinum 2 Plugs). Now I think that is a blanket statement, but I will say they didn't work in my 2000 Buick Century with 96k miles which has the 3.1 Liter V6 motor. Now that I am an expert at installing plugs in this motor as I've done it with my Corsica, Cutlass Supreme, and other Buick Century I used to own, I can now replace all the plugs in less than 30 minutes. The trick is to remove the coil pack assembly and you can then see the rear plugs. Sorry to ramble on, just hoping this might help someone else.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    What brand of fuel injector cleaner do you use?

    I use Techron Fuel Injection Cleaner made by Chevron. It is sold most everywhere, incuding Wal-Mart.
  • fsbdriverfsbdriver Posts: 1
    I have a 77 buick century 4 door sedan .I bought it used from my uncle 6 yrs ago . Its still a good car had turned over millage one and has over 300 ,000 miles on it . the engine dont smoke at all.Is it really hard to replace the fuse box under the dash ? :(
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    I would think replacing any fuse box would be a monumental task even for a seasoned mechanic. Have you considered replacing the effected circuit(s) with an aftermarket inline fuse kit? Some of the pre-airpump GM's were fine cars. I had a 77 Bonneville with the 350R that was a real die-hard with plenty getty-up. Good Luck.
  • herrkaleuherrkaleu Posts: 62
    I just bought a 98 Century w/ 136,000 miles.
    It belonged to my mother in law for the last 50,0000 miles/3 years and she didn't really do any maintenance. 2 repairs with clogged injectors were done (only cleaning with some chemicals).
    the reason I bought it, because I only drive 3 miles to work with it.... I wouldn't use it for any other reason (we have a new Mazda 3 as our real car).
    According to the manual I needed to change motor oil (that has been done occasionally), check the fluids (power steering and coolant might need some filling.
    What is the exact fluid for the power steering? The manual doesn't say. I will replace the air filter myself, will have the oil changed. Maybe I replace the spark plugs. Are they easy to replace? Do I need a tourque nut for that?
    I didn't read anything about replacing the fuel filter. Do I need to replace that, if so, which type (part number, so I can buy it). Do I need to replace the tranny fluid? The manual says every 50,000 miles under severe conditions. But that doesn't apply and I didn't find anything about repalcing it otherwise. Once I drive more than 3 miles I'll check the tranny oil level (manual says driving 15 miles to heat it up before checking)
    The front left indicator bulb burns out often, and every year in the past the fuel injector was dirty (the service engine soon light was on). That was a $140 -$ 180 bill. Other than that no problems.
    A 2004 shop bill indicated, that the water pump seeps/($250) and the belt needs to be replaced ($75), which hasn't been done. Not sure if they only tried to make money, since my mother in law drove it 30 k miles more w/o any problems regarding to that. To me the belt looks fine. The manual doens't say anything about replacing that.
    Anyway, are there any things I should do? Don't want to pay too much because I only drive so little, on the other hand I don't want to be towed....
    I'm planning on keeping that car for 1-2 years, unless my work place changes and I need to drive more. I do realize, that this is an old car.... but for my purpose it'd be OK, I guess.
    If the injector gets dirty/clogged, are those cans you buy to pour into the tank any good? That's why I want to change the fuel filter/air filter/spark plugs to avoid that problem. Maybe I put that cleaner in the tank just in case. Right now it drives fine (whatever that means, it is slow, wiggly, a whole different world from Mazda, that's why old people like buick :-).. but it has been that since I knew it 3 years ago). I replaced some bulbs today.. once the tires wear out/something other needs to be done I'll trade it in.... but I'm willing to invest something to keep it moving.
    Thanks for your input
  • herrkaleuherrkaleu Posts: 62
    I now filled up some power steering fluid that i bought at Walmart... it said it woudl mix with most of the fluids.
    The left front blinker still doesn't work. The little plastic socket is kind of melt. the parking light works, but no blinker.
    the online autoparts warehouse has some stuff to order.... I also ordered a repair book from th elibrary. If anyone has suggestions what maintenance i should do, that would be helpful. I chekced the engine oil, that is full. The oil change light doesn't come on eihter. The tranny fluid is full... it looked kind of pink. Is that normal? It was more than full.
    Now fuel filter and air filter are the things to repalce, if you advise so. Will wait with the spark plugs.
  • buickloverbuicklover Posts: 15
    Hmmm...Where do I start....First thing I would do is replace the plugs. They are a little difficult to do the first time, and require patience. The belt should be replaced if you notice any cracks in the underside. I would buy a belt/tension bar which will help you pull up on the belt tensioner/pully, for less then $10 and the belt should cost less than $20. Fuel Filter isn't that hard either, and should be done every 50k. It's a little messy, but not difficult. As for fuel injectors clogging, it's very common on this motor. Make sure you use 89 grade fuel and stay away from certain gas stations. Not sure what to tell you about the water pump. I've never replaced one, and I'm sure it's a messy job too, but probably isn't that hard.
  • buickloverbuicklover Posts: 15
    I think your left front blinker must have a short in the wire somewhere. I would check the wire and see if there is insulation that has wore off and is causing a wire to rub up against the frame. The oil life sensor (oil change light) is usually reset by the oil change facility if they remember to do it. When I purchased a 99 century in 2000 with 20k miles on it, I decided to use the oil life sensor and after 7500 miles I became a little nervous and changed the oil. I realized that oil changes are the cheapest maintenance you can do to a car and if you do so every 2500-3000 miles, your motor will last beyond 200k. I hear many people talk about how they have had to replace their motor at 100k-125k and it's because they didn't do the maintenance. This is a strong motor and only has a couple known flaws (intake gasket very common). While your replacing the air filter, I would also replace the cabin air filter which I believe the 98's had. This filters the air coming in from the outside to the inside of your car. Many people fail to replace them and it can make a world of difference if you have allergies etc. As for your tranny fluid, pink to light red is good. Dark red to black is very bad. Keep a watch on that transmission as that transmission is known to have issues with the 4th gear. I know because I just had mine rebuilt because the previous owner did a Jiffy Lube trans flush (WORSE THING TO DO). If you decided to get the transmission maintenance done, take it to a dealer and have them drop the pan, replace the filter and the fluid. Granted, this does not replace all the fluid in the system, but a flush will back flush contaminants into the trans filter, thus clogging it, and depriving the transmission of fluid. The fuel filter on your century might be in a different place than my 2000 century as I have a plastic gas tank so the gas lines probably run a little different. The fuel filter is generally located towards the back of the vehicle, underneath, and it has a line running in and a line running out. One line is a high pressure line and the other has a nut that can be a royal pain to remove if it's rusted. Buy yourself some PB Blaster rust remover and drench the entire connection, walk away for about 15 minutes and come back. Make sure when you loosen the nut that you are not directly underneath it as gas will come out (about 2 to 3 cups). Of course I won't go into anymore detail as your repair manual should show you how to do this.
  • herrkaleuherrkaleu Posts: 62
    I got the maintenance/repair book. It looks like the belt should be easy. Or is there a catch, that I need super human power? But the belt looks good to me, I checked. No cracks etc. Maybe I buy one and keep it in the trunk just in case.
    The fuel filter and spark plugs I will have done by a shop, sounds messy to me. How much would that cost me? Since the tranny oil looks good, and I only drive so little I stay away from that, I will replace the air filter myself. Don't care so much about the cabin air filter, it's only me driving 3 miles to work. I need to fill in some Dex-Cool. The coolant tank is so low, that I could not even take a sample with the freezing point tester. I won't flush/replace it, .... I guess it will be fine and over 3 miles the engine won't over heat either way. That car only is capable of driving grandpa-style anyway :-)
    About the oil change minder, how can it not come on after 7500 miles? I suppose if the people who changed the oil last did not do anything because it was before the light came on, then it should come on even sooner.
    I havn't even driven the car the last days, will drive it daily to work at the end of August after we move. Then I will see more what quirks it has. But i want to deal with the main neglectance (filters, plugs) before that.
    The front left indicator light is fixed. Actually the plastic socket where the bulb goes in is kind of melt, so the contacts didn't realy touch the bulb contacts. Now it works after some wiggling and squeezing.
    I tested the battery (it is a repalcement battery from a brand I forgot) with one of those acid density things and the cells are charged evenly, all full. However, I think the liquid barely covers the lead. I think I put in some desitilled water in each (it is not one of those maintenance free batteries, the caps came off easily).
    I know more should be done, but then I spend more money than the car is worth. and the only reason i don't buy a new car is, that I barely drive with it. If I drove more I would spend more money. But that would never end. The steering is wabbely, ... and the year long neglectance. I suppose my mother in law who owned the car for 50,000 miles didn't do anything, and the owner before who had it till 88,000 miles did not too much before selling it. I seriously believe fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs are still original.
    Since tranny fluid looks normal, that and engine oil are the only things ever replaced. It is surprising how much a car can take.....
  • davisgradavisgra Posts: 1
    My car, a 1992 Buick Century with a V6, is making this weird clacking noise from the front end as soon as I start it up. The car's acceleration and handling doesn't seem any different, but it almost sounds like something is rattling around in there. As soon as the car goes over 20 mph, though, the noise completely stops and everything seems fine. When I slow down again, it comes back. Any ideas as to what could be wrong? I think I might take it in to a shop tomorrow; any suggestions as to where to go? The car hasn't had any real problems; has 130,000 miles on it, and all of the fluids are checked and at the right level. I'd appreciate any help anyone would have...
  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    Sounds like pebble in the hub cap syndrome to me. The good part is it doesn't cost anything to fix. Let us know what you find out.
    Good luck
  • I now replaced the motor air filter. The front driver blinker melts the lamp socket, so it loses contact. With little wiggling it works again. I just stopped at a buick dealer to buy a new socket for the lamp, but that department was already closed.
    they quoted fuel filter change would be $45, and replacing spark plugs would be $155 including some intake manifold cleaning and platinum spark plugs. (considering how retarded the design is, I might them have do it)
    I have to say, my Mazda 3 with a smaller hood makes maintenance easier than the buick with lots of room. Everything is designed to make maintenance as labor intensive as possible :-)
    for now I will leave the accessory belt the way it is, it looks good to me. I'm not sure if I should have the coolant flushed. I read the anti-corrosive wears out and it will make the frost plugs and other things corrode.
    Is there a way to see the frost plugs in the engine, if they are rusty?
    I know more should be done, but with driving only 3 miles to work I don't want to overdo it....
  • Is it true that there is a lifetime warranty on the engine belt [serpentine??? belt] through the buick dealership? And if so, how does one go about getting that changed?
  • yurakmyurakm Posts: 1,345
    The belt is a replacement item; early or late, but it always wears out.

    However, when a new belt I replaced at Chevy dealership worn up after only 12k miles, they replaced the belt again for free. The service adviser called GM, and GM paid for it.
  • the buick century is very reliabele i love it!
  • I have a 1999 Buick Century 3.1L V6. It has just over 120k miles on it.

    I purchased it, and didnt even know it had a tick which would occur after the car was running for a minute... and it never goes away. It is harder to hear at higher RPM's (over 2,000) but it's still there.

    I notice a lot of people have problems with engine tick at cold startup, but I have not seen any people post about engine tick AFTER a cold startup

    What is wrong? Is it bad? Easy to fix? Expensive? Will my motor last? What should I do?

    Thanks!
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