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Buick Century



  • Hi Neva

       I too have a 3.1 litre In My 1999 Chevrolet

    Malibu. This Car has had the Intake Manifold

    Gasket repaired TWICE ! First Time At 71,000 Km

    Second time at 109,000. The mechanic at my

    Toronto Ont. area dealership told me GM is using

    an improved Gasket material that should improve

    the longevity. (HMMM) As far as GM Replacing it,

    unless you have an extended warranty (I DO on

    my Malibu) I doubt they will, seeing as you're

    past the 3 YR/ 60,000 Km Factory Warranty. If you

    pressure your dealership you never know. As far

    as cost of repair goes i've heard everything

    from $500.00 at a local garage to $1000.00 at

    the Dealer, so get some estimates Sadly, this is

    a known flaw on GM 3.1 litre Engines. Take a look

    On the Chevy Malibu Forum almost everyone has had

    this problem. Hope this is helpful. Good Luck

    with Your Car. We are thinking of buying a Century

    Had one as a rental when the Bu was in the shop. Is it a good

    everyday Car ? Reliable ? Only had it for an overnight so it was

    kinda hard to tell.First impression was good. smooth ride and very

    quiet interior. Any Thoughts ??
  • Hey, guys,I am looking into a 00'Buick Century Custom at 75K miles. The price is $5100 for Zip code 14623. It was a leased car before. Very nice in and out. Is it a good deal at all?
    One more thing is that I notice the power window only works at the master controller. I read something in this forum and found this might be a persistent problem, is it true? Also, for a car at this high mileage, when would I expect to throw money in for major repair. Please give your opinion and thanks very much.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Has anyone changed out the air filter in their 3.1L V6 lately? How do you get the cover off without breaking something?! Thanks.
  • baveuxbaveux Posts: 175
    Disconnect the duct at both ends.
    Disconnect first the two connector at the map sensor, pull out the plastic pipe from the duct also.not more than 20 mn
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Many thanks baveus. Air filter job done. Needed some encouragement, and your words did the trick.

    Getting rubber duct off was troublesome. Before your post I tried removing it from end where air filter element box is. Nope.

    After disconnecting sensor wires (putting them in safe out of the way place) and PCV, and loosening the strap screws at both ends, wrapped both hands around end of duct at engine end, then gave it a short twist to bust it loose. Grabbed the accordian part of the duct and gave it a good healthy pull to remove it from the engine. From there it was pretty easy.

    This is my son's car. Just got it. '03 rental return (Hertz). Considerate Dad is changing out oil, oil filter, air filter and cabin filter.

    Here's the scary part. When engine was stone cold, removed radiator cap and found orangish-yellowish crud at the top of the filler neck. Vehicle only has 23,400 miles on it. Recovery tank was at the FULL mark as expected, but the coolant was about 3/4 inch below the top of the filler neck.

    Took it to Jiffy Lube and for $92 US (with AAA discount) they power flushed the system with new Dex-cool. But wonder: is it too late? Is the crud everywhere in the radiator, water pump, engine sleeves? There's still 11k+ miles left on warranty, but wonder what GM would do about it.
  • baveuxbaveux Posts: 175
    I doubt that the stuff describe is crud.It's probably the stop leak that GM put at the factory.
    I had some of that stuff in my Pontiac Montana recovery thanks. That stuff looked like saw dust paste.

    I doubt that the cooling system is contaminated at such low milleage, but hey, its hard to tell from here !!
  • We are currently test driving a 2003 Buick Century Custom. It has 17,000 miles on it and they want around $11,500 for it --- does that sound reasonable? They also have a 2003 Buick with 29,000 miles on it and they want $9,995 for it, that seems like a lot of miles for only being one year old. They also call it a program car. What is that? Please help.
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Hi avgens. My son just purchased an '03 Century with 23k miles for $9995. It came with anti-lock brakes and the Concert III 200-watt sound system. The $11,500 sounds like full retail. If it doesn't come with anti-locks I would walk away. Where we are (Minneapolis area) there are scads of '03s w/24k miles, but w/o anti-locks, for $9995. A program car is typically a rental car coming out of service. My son's was from Hertz. They aren't bad deals, really, considering that the car itself is pretty good and there's still the balance of the bumper-to-bumper factory warranty. Many banks let you finance these year-olds as if they were new '04s. You can also purchase an extended warranty for around $1200 (shop around; I hear Warranty Direct is pretty good). If you buy one, strongly suggest you change out fluids (oil, Dexcool) and filters (oil, air, passenger cabin) as soon as you get it home. Good luck.
  • lelandllelandl Posts: 11
    2000 century coustom
    46000 mi
    keyless entry
    power W/L and driver seat
    1 owner
    some crack on windshield
    from a used car dealer
    he is firm at $6100
    KBB trade is $4900 Private party $6900
    Edmunds Trade in $5600 private party $6800

    What's you guys opinion about this?
    Is that a reasonale price?
    Which particular part should pay special attention when mechanical check?
    thanks much!
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Since the the price is firm, there might be some things the dealer will do for you to close the deal:

    1. Fix the windshield. It's really a safety thing since the windshield is an integral component of the passive restraint airbag system.
    2. Provide name and phone number of the previous owner. This would be invaluable in that you can verify the vehicle is indeed a one-owner, if there were any problems that in your mind might make you uncomfortable enough to walk away, and if there are any maintenance records. (FWIW, when a dealer tells me it's a one-owner and then tells me he called the owner and they declined to have him give their phone number to me, I do indeed walk away).
    3. Provide a Car-Fax report at no charge. The dealer should already have a Car-Fax account good for unlimited reports.
    4. Power flush the cooling system and fill with new Dex-Cool, again at no charge. (Note: there are numerous postings on GM related boards like this one of problems with Dex-Cool. Before dealer does anything, remove radiator cap and check for any sludge. Also check inside the coolant overflow tank.)
    5. Provide at least a 30-day/1,000 mile powertrain warranty at no charge. During that time check every week for any coolant leaks on garage floor, and check level of coolant in overflow tank. If dealer does flush the system, you might need to top it off during the first week, but if you have to add any after that it might be due to the notorious head gasket problem. Common advice for 3.1L V6 owners is to keep the Dex-Cool level at the HOT mark even when it is cold.

    There are lots of Buick Centurys and Regals out there to pick from, so if anything about this one sounds "spicious" just be patient and keep looking until you find the right one. In helping my son find a Century it took two weeks and saying "No" to a dozen other cars.

    Hope this helps and good luck!
  • jim169jim169 Posts: 1
    Hello, I bought a 2003 Buick Century with 24k miles last December. I like the comfortable ride and it runs pretty well so far. However this morning when I started the engine, the AC was left on and I could smell a strong odor coming out of the AC, it's like coolant got into the AC system as far as I can tell. I read a few recent posts here talking about the leaky intake manifold gasket, I'm wondering if that's the problem. If not, what else could be wrong? Thanks a lot!
  • tsu670tsu670 Posts: 293
    Sometimes the drain line from the condensor gets partially or totally plugged, so water stagnates and starts to get, shall we say, ripe. This can be a do-it-yourself fix, but unfortunately I don't know where the drain hose is on this car.

    In any event, I'm guessing (hoping!) your Buick is still under the 36 month/36,000 mile bumper-to-bumper warranty, so it would be well worth having the dealer look at it for you.

    Please let us know what they find. This board is a great place to learn about cars, and relating your experience might save time and money for many others.

  • I got a 1994 Century as a commuter car last month. It mostly runs fine (as it should with only 48k miles), but I've noticed that the engine makes a loud ticking sound upon startup (I'm in New Hampshire, so the car is cold), that quiets down after the car warms up, although the noise is still there. I'm thinking it's a belt issue, but maybe someone has more insight.

  • bdeyes333bdeyes333 Posts: 12
    The sound you are hearing is called "Piston Slap"
    This is a known problem on some Gm motors.The 3.1
    is probably the most well known. Most mechanics
    don't seem to think of it as a major problem
    related to engine life. As long as it quiets down
    after the car warms up it is considered "Normal".
    If your'e still concerned about it have your
    mechanic listen to it after the car has sat
    overnight. Hope this helps.
  • "The sound you are hearing is called "Piston Slap" This is a known problem on some Gm motors.The 3.1 is probably the most well known. Most mechanics don't seem to think of it as a major problem related to engine life. As long as it quiets down after the car warms up it is considered "Normal"."

    Thanks! We recently moved, so I still haven't found a satisfactory mechanic. This reassures me for a while until I locate a dependable shop.

  • I had my 2001 century crashed on Friday night. My century crashed into a left-turning Camero while I was passing through a green night, the Altima on my right lane also hit the Camero, too. The driver in the Camero was trying to tell the police officer he had a green arrow when he was maing the left turn. Fortunately, we had a witness to testify that he only see a green light instead of green arrow because he was the one right behind the Camero when the Camero started to turn. Then the driver from the Camero tried to start blaming us for speeding, which we didn't. What a jerk! Anyway, his effort seemed to be effetive because the officer didn't give him a ticker finally.

    Both of us filed a claim with the Camero's insurance company, we don't what he is telling his insurance company yet, however, I do believe he won't admit fault easily. It was a tough crash,I believed my century must get totalled, although I may only feel a little shock when the accident happened, the next day I started to feel pain on the neck and my right arm,I feel some numbness on my legs, too, and it get worse these days, I feel I need to see a doctor tomorrow about that.

    While this is the first I get hurt in an accident, so I am not sure what's the right step should I take to deal with this accident. When I visit the doctor, should I show him my own health insurnace or should I let him bill the other driver's insurance company directly? Some friends said I should hire a lawer to ask for compensation, what do you guys think?
  • turboshadowturboshadow Posts: 349
    Within the next week, I plan to buy a 2001 Century or a 2003 Alero with ABS and V6. Mileage is simialr, as is color.

    I like both cars, but would like input form those who have lived with these little beasties over the long run.

    Your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to sway me one way or the other based on features you like or dislike about either car.

  • jipsterjipster Posts: 5,345
    If I were you I would see a doctor first. Then I would see a lawyer who specializes in car injury cases...theres about a million of them. It's not unusual to feel the effects of such a car crash the day after. Look in the yellow pages. A lot of lawyers will only charge you if they win your case. Your doctor can't bill the other drivers insurance company. Your lawyer may have to sue to recover the money you spent on medical bills as well as the damages to your car.Though a lot of times they will settle out of court.Be companies try to get out of these things if they can. A good lawyer(if there is such a thing)will assist you in recovering insurance money and compensation for your injuries.Good luck.
  • Hello All!

    I am seriously considering the purchase of a Rebuilt 2001 Buick Century Limited that was crashed. It was sold at a Salvage Auction and professionaly rebuilt by a 40 year body man that does this as a part time business.

    It was hit in the left front side and all front end sheet metal was replaced including, the core support, radiator & A/C condensor, small under hood parts, and also had a new GM Sub-Frame assembly installed which included new suspension and left shock tower assembly. The Air Bags WAS NOT Deployed because of where it was hit. There was not even any damage to the drivers door, only the front end was damaged.

    The car has less than 25k miles and is a loaded Limited model. It drives like a dream, looks new and smells new. But it does have a salvage title which I was made clear of. The price is $5500 Less than the KBB Retail Value. Should I really be concerned considering the quality of this rebuild and the reputation of the bodyman? I've restored Ford trucks by hobby for 24 years, but I don't know GM models. This car looks new on top and underneith. Give me your thoughts!


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