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Chrysler LHS

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  • ok so I just bought a 2000 LHS, love it!
    but just yesterday, I noticed a few things on the drivers side only, first, the heated seat isn't working, which is fine cuz I don't really like them anyway, makes me feel like I soiled myself or something, but anyway....
    next is the drivers side mirror(pass. side is fine and on the same switch), which isn't working at all
    and then finally I changed out the 6 and 3/4 speakers in the doors, the outer foam on both of them had worn out, and come to find out the one in the drivers door is only minimally working, and I say minimally, because I can still hear the music if I put my ear to it but other than that no real sound! oh and before anyone says I hooked them up wrong, no trust me I tried a few different wires and setups, none worked.
    I checked the fuses but there doesn't seem to be a problem, although I can't really seem to find one that would cover all of those things, I think maybe there could be some loose wires in the door?? but that wouldn't account for the heated seat, and I wouldn't be able to hear music through the speaker, and neither of the mirrors would work because they are on the same switch. maybe there is a power issue somewhere, but its not effecting anything else(windows, locks, seat functions)anyway I have no idea can someone shed some light???? :confuse:
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,250
    There is a tsb relating to defective amplification --- check edmunds.com. Had some speakers and the amp fixed under warranty and it did help. The radio system isn't that great but you can always replace it at any of the big box electronics stores and probably be happy. My heated seat went out and had to be fixed. The grid of wires breaks.
    If you dyi be careful, you might get heat from the door and music from the seat .
  • UPDATE: went to the dealership, all separate problems unfortunately :( The heating element in the seat went bad, unrepairable because a replacement seat is no longer available. the drivers side mirror was fine, the plug was only half plugged into the socket, they fixed it for free. the speakers are fine, the AMP went bad(see post above) $475 for a replacement, ugh. they did clean my fogged up headlights, which is a plus, it now looks like new again! thanks for the info, hope my post helps others
  • lhsgirllhsgirl Posts: 2
    I found this sight a couple of days ago and have been reading all the posts. I found this sight very insightful. I have owned a 1996 cadillac for about a year and wanted a car that was comparable to it. The 96 cadillac is a wonderful car but I just kept having to keep putting money that I didn't have into it. I went onto ebay and looked for a LHS and found a 99 for sale and it was rear ended and the owner lost her license and wanted to get rid of it. It has 170,xxx miles on it and drives like a dream nothing wrong with it except for the damage from the accident. I just wanted to say "Thank You" for this sight and for everyones posts. I know that when I have a problem I can come here like I did on the cadillac forum. Keep posting everyone....you don't know how many people you help!!!!
    Yesterday, my husband and I bought the 99 LHS from the girl. I am a very happy owner of a 99 LHS. Sincerely LHSgirl :)
  • lhsgirllhsgirl Posts: 2
    Hello! I have a 99 LHS and it has 175,000 miles on it and it is still running great. Better than my 96 cadillac sts. ...and the sts has 167,000 miles on it. I"m not sure about the tranny and stuff but I have a place in Montgomery illionois....called staffords and they have LHS engines with 80,000 miles and under for only 750 dollars with warrenty. If your interested let me know I can give you address and phone #. :)
  • 95flhtcu95flhtcu Posts: 2
    I just bought a 1997 LHS. 86,000 miles, $3000. everything works and God willing, it will continue. I really like it and hopefully, I won't have to post about electrical issues.
  • 95flhtcu95flhtcu Posts: 2
    Damned if I didn't post and go out to the car to find that the power passenger front door lock doesn't work. The lock works, opens with the key or manually from the inside, but it just buzzes like it's trying and the button doesn't come up. I'm going to pull the door panel this week, any experience with this issue?
  • Yesterday when I was driving home my fuel indicator started fluctuating between the current level and empty. Then the check engine light came on, followed by the doors open indicator and then the interior lights started flickering on and off. Then the power steering started making a clunking noise. After I parked it at home the interior lights continued to flash on and off. This morning my car alarm started to randomly go off so I finally disconnected the battery cable. Anyone have any idea as to the source of this problem? Any cost guesstimates? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • jctonetti9jctonetti9 Posts: 1
    The center speaker in my 2001 LHS is broken and I need to replace it. Does anybody know what size the speaker is, whether or not it's a tweeter, and where I can buy a replacement (a specific link please not just the name of a site)?
  • mopar4mopar4 Posts: 1
    1996 lhs ....had been running fine just turned 200k on freeway cut out coasted to stop cranked engine would not fire went through checks per service manual(haynes) with spark tester crank engine get two arcs then nothing .turn key off two sparks ,nothing so on and so on.so far have replaced coil and cam $ crank sensors still no fire and same prob. with spark .OBD gave me message pertaining to MAP sensor has anyone had same prob? what should I check next????
  • smokedoggsmokedogg Posts: 3
    Hello, I have a 1996 Chrysler LHS and I am having problems with my power door locks. Actually just the drivers side. When I just barely touch it, it makes a buzzing noise probably just like yours did. If i press it to unlock, all 3 other doors will lock, and vice-versa for when i press it to lock, they all unlock. With the exception of my drivers side door. With the keyless entry, everything on that works the way it should except the drivers side door again. I was wondering if you had any luck on resolving your problem, and if so can you please explain to me what you had done. And perhaps, the steps you took to remove your door panel. I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks.
  • I have a 94 LHS with a rough idle. There is now 130,000 miles on it.
    It started suddenly 2 years ago. There are no engine codes even after repeated checks. I changed plugs and wires, even though they were not that old. It did not help. I have checked for vacuum leaks many times and can not find one. I have carefully synchronized the throttle bodies.

    The miss is at idle, worse when the A/C is engaged. If you give it a little gas it is fine. When the car is moving there is no miss.

    The engine drops revs if you disconnect any of the plug wires or injector connections. So the miss is irregular and not confined to any specific cylinders. There is no miss at high speed, or when gunning for overtakes. If anything since this problem started gas mileage improved slightly.

    I did have a mechanic put a scanner on it and at idle the passenger bank of injectors has a shorter opening time than the other side. The ignition timing jumps erratically. As soon as you build up revs to about 1000 RPM everything straightens out.

    I have spoken to dealers and a number of good mechanics about this and they have seen it before, but have no idea for a solution. They tell me Chrysler are no help at all.

    Has anyone seen this problem and solved it? I sure would like to know. The problem does not get worse, but it is very irritating, and the car shakes violently at stop lights. Apart from that the car runs fine and starts fine hot or cold, even at 40 below. I have been around a lot of engines in my time, and have never encountered anything remotely like this puzzler.
  • I also have a 94 LHS and I have had the rough idle problem my Self. I have been talking to a few different mechanics and I am semi confident the problem may be the Idle air Control Valve. The valve runs about 70 dollars in most auto parts stores. I should have one next week. I think that may fix the problem.
  • i have the same problem on my dads 95 lhs. did you solve your problem? if so how? thanks
  • please let me know if you solve your problem.. my dads car has same problem. thanks
  • I have not yet, got the Idle Air Control Valve. I should have it in a couple of days. I have been a little short of funds like everyone else. I plan to start with that and go to the throttle parts next if that doesnt work. I will keep you posted on how it comes out. My 94 LHS also kind of jumps (is the best way i can put it) when the air conditioning is on. It sort of feels like its jumping in and out of gear but its not. it does the same thing when i am sitting still with the air on. it doesnt do it all the time,maybe like once every 10-20 min. when it happens the rpm's go up and then back down for a sec. I think it still maybe caused by the Idle air control valve though. if its not getting enough air or too much, that would (in my experience) make the idle do wierd things. exspecially if the air is on.
  • I posted this on Bat auto technical, and a Sr member Danica gave me the first sensible and correct advice on this common problem with the Chrysler 3.5 V6.

    Here are the relevant parts of the thread. I posed the same question as above.

    Danica: -
    Since its an LHS I'll assume its got the 3.5 engine, which has a common problem with lower intake manifold gaskets. This engine has a large upper plenum, and a small intake manifold nestled between the heads. Close to where the upper rad hose fastens to the motor, there is a small area opening to the underside of the intake manifold. Spray carb cleaner in that opening with the engine idling. If it smooths out, you've found your leak.

    Tuscanskipper: -
    Thanks Danica! That is just the sort of information I'm looking for. The car is away from here currently. I will have it back next week. I will do exactly what you say, and post back.

    If that is it, I will get the gaskets. I bet access won't be brilliant. However when I get the plenum off I might be surprised. Hope Springs eternal! I have the service manual so I will look at the procedure for changing the gaskets. By the way it is the 3. 5.

    If you have solved this, your brilliant! I know this is a common problem, and it is all over the net, but no solutions. I have suspected an intake leak all along, but not been able to find it. So to me your reply makes sense.

    Tuscanskipper; _
    I sprayed in the carb cleaner just as you instructed. The engine smoothed right out consistently with multiple sprays. I have a an intake manifold gasket replacement coming up! I will be off to the local parts store tomorrow.

    Danica, yours was the first correct answer to this problem I have seen on the net.

    Should I silicone the gasket, in a addition to the water channel, to prevent further problems?

    Once again, thanks for your help. Good job!

    Danica;-
    Only use silicone sealer on any surfaces that are pitted.

    Use caution with the fuel lines and coolant outlet at the rear of the engine.

    Tuscanskipper: -
    I finished the intake manifold gasket replacement first thing this morning. Since I have some physical limitations I did the repair over 3 days. I put in three hours two days ago, three hours yesterday, and an hour this morning. So that is seven hours, including radiator refill, warm up air bleeding and testing.

    I'm glad to report the engine started right away, with no leaks, check engine lights or fault codes. Best of all the engine idles so smoothly you have to check the rev counter to be certain the engine is running. There are no driving problems at all.

    Thanks once again Danica, that was the first sensible advice I received since this problem started.

    Since this problem seems prevalent, with no solutions generally offered, I hope this post will pop up in search engines.

    Since this seems a significant problem for this engine, I will go into aspects where I had to deviate from the Haines manual.

    The most significant difficulty was the fuel rails. The manual says to pinch the connectors to supply and return, but no way would they release. I figured if I removed the thermostat housing I could move them out of the way.

    I went to the parts store to get the housing gasket. They sold me a tool to uncouple the rails. However there was an older well seasoned mechanic in the store, and he cautioned me that theses tools often break the coupling, and advised if possible to do the repair without uncoupling the fuel rails. This proved easily possible, once the thermostat housing was removed.

    The other issue is the heater hoses on the back of the manifold. The Haines manual mentions only one heater hose. However there are two, and one goes straight down, and I could not get to the hose clamp, as the hose was short and would not pull up. I removed the metal hose connector from the manifold, by removing the two securing bolts. I was able to preserve the gasket, and used blue RTV sealant when I put it back. Otherwise the repair was as per Haines.

    Now as to cause. This gasket is brittle plastic. I never saw anything like it. It has finger cracks all over the place. It would soon have caused leak of coolant into the cylinders. It was dreadful to get the remnants off the head and manifold. It is impervious to gasket solvent. I got most off with a razor blade without scraping. For the rest I used the small scotch brite pad on a small air right angle grinder. This got all surfaces clean and shiny. I used form a gasket to hold the manifold gasket, fuel rail gaskets and plenum gaskets in place. A bead of blue RTV sealant was place round all water channel openings. The NAPA replacement gasket looked to be of excellent quality, by the way, and I doubt this problem will recur.

    One other issue, I found a mouse nest on the cylinder block, under the inlet manifold!

    I'm really glad to have tracked this problem down. These are great engines. I find it strange, that the cause of this common problem with these engines is not widely known. As far as I know this is the only correct answer on the net. Two dealers and multiple experienced mechanics gave me nonsensical answers. I'm glad I left the engine alone, until I was certain what the problem was.
  • Did you see the cause and correct solution for this problem?
  • I got the Idle air control valve today and installed it. I am also going to try the trick with the carb cleaner, spraying it near the intake manifold. The idle air control valve seemed to bring the idle back up where it needed to be. I will give it a good drive tomorrow to see if the hesitation is still there. It would kind of choke sometimes when the engine was running. Sometimes it would do it on the highway, some at idle. Most of the time at highway speeds. I will keep everyone posted on my progress as well. The other post sounds like more work, but it seemed to fix the problem. My car seems to run fine otherwise.
  • I did replace the idle air control valve and it helped a little. I got some carb cleaner today and sprayed it near the intake. I started spraying in back near the firewall but no fluctuations in the idle. then i came around to the front near the thermostat housing. When i sprayed there it started to change the idle. it bubbled a little as well. i could not tell if the leak was comming from the intake or the thermostat housing. how can i be sure? I replaced the theremostat and gasket about two months ago and there is no leaks. if the therm housing was leaking, wouldnt it leak antifreeze?. what do you suggest next?
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