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Chrysler LHS



  • i recently put a light in the trunk. i got one of those lights from the auto parts store and unplugged the orriginal light that was already in the trunk. I found out which wire was hot and which was ground. the light works fine but now the trunk ajar light on the dash wont go off. I disconnected the light that i installed in the trunk to see if that would change or fix anything but it didnt. any ideas?
  • The thermostat gasket would leak water and not cause this problem. Your problem is failure of the manifold gasket, apparently it usually starts near cylinder No. 5.

    When I removed my manifold gasket, I could see why these 3.5 Chrysler engines are known for this problem. The gasket is made of a material I have never seen a gasket made of before and never want to again.

    Replace the manifold gasket and your vehicle will be transformed. Make sure you use a traditional high quality gasket, and NOT one of those Chrysler abortions.

    If you don't have to take enforced breaks like I do, you should get this done in a day. The complete job took me seven hours.

    Time to bite the bullet my friend. If you don't, you will end up with water in a cylinder, and or over heating problems. Mine had to be close on the basis of what I found on my vehicle.
  • Thanks for the info. I am preparing my self for the job this weekend. I have a slight valve cover leak as well so i plan to do those as well. Would you have any other tips or points to watch out for when i am doing the job sat? I noticed that one of the people posting on here was talking about the fuel Rails? I know what they are but should i remove them or do you have to? It may have been you talking about it. I noticed that the car goes up in idle every now and then, it jumps to about 1200 rpm and back down to about 800 average. when you are sitting still, it just does that. when you are driving if makes the vehicle jump (kind of feels like its popped into gear) but its just the idle speed doing that. I was assuming that this was caused by more air sucking into the manifold . I also need to replace the oil pan gasket, but i may save that for a later day. Its seems easy to get done except for the front area where the bolts are kind of under part of the frame. I wonder who thought of that.
  • thanks for help but have huge problem. two bolts are frozen and both feel that with any force they will snap. what can i do?
  • you may want to try some liquid wrench. saturate all around the bolt and let it stand for a while before trying it again. hopefully that will work.if they do break, you can get a set of bolt outs (they are kind of like drill bits that go backwards.) lowes may have them if the parts store doesnt. i have my parts store on speed dial for reasons such as that. usually those guys are pretty smart.

    Thanks and i hope that helps
  • I agree with the advice about the bolts.

    You will need a plenum gasket, manifold gaskets and the two fuel rail gaskets. I would also recommend a thermostat housing gasket. Also if you can get one, a gasket for the heater hose outlet on the back of the manifold. I could not find one of those, so if you break it you will have to make one, likely.

    I would recommend not decoupling the fuel rails, as you may do damage it will be hard to repair. You will have to remove the fuel rails. I would recommend removing the thermostat housing so you can set them to one side, without decoupling them.

    Getting the old gasket off is hard. I polished all surface with the small Scotch Brite pads on my small air angle grinder.

    It is fiddly to keep the manifold and fuel rail gaskets in place. You will need something sticky to hold them. I used a product called form a gasket. I also put a bead of blue RTV sealant round the waterways.

    Sorry for the late reply, but I'm visiting England currently.
  • I finally went and did it. I replaced the Intake gasket, the valve cover gaskets and the thermostat housing gasket. no leaks. I have another problem now. the idle is fine unless you put the car in gear, then the idle either drops to about 600rpm or the car dies all together. I cant seem to find any vacuum hoses that are loose or anything. any ideas? otherwise, the car seems to run fine. it hovers right around 1000 rpm normally till,like i said, you put it in gear.

  • Have you checked the codes? Is there a problem with the idler motor or circuit? Unfortunately, I think you still have an intake leak. It should not idle at 1000 RPM when not in gear. It should be 750 to 800. It should drop back to around 700 to 750 in gear.

    Did you get all your surfaces clean? Are you sure you have not had a gasket slip on reassembly? I think one of these two things is likely the issue. Try squirting carb cleaner in all ares of the replaced gaskets, and see if idle increases. I do believe your repair was not properly carried out most likely.
  • the idle was more around what you said it should be. It idles around 850 normally. I have checked the gaskets and every other area that i did. I was on another website which i think it was where you can chat with an actual mechanic. He had me try several things and the last thing he had me try was to take the big vacuum hose off that comes from the plenum to the Brake booster. He said pull it off at the plenum and cap it. he said sometimes the brake booster goes bad when the car is that old (94) and it leaks vaccuum. when it goes bad it takes away vacuum from the motor when you push on the brakes. when i did what he said and then put the car in gear and pushed on the brakes the idle stayed the same instead of dying or dropping idle. it worked. but one thing i hadnt done was let the motor warm up when i did that test. It seems that 1. the engine has to be warm 2. you push on the brakes for more than about 20 seconds like you are stopped at a long light. i was at starbucks getting a frappachino and it almost died in the line. I am puzzled. it runs fine when i am driving around and when i have it in park and neutral. I had a mechanic friend of mine check it out and he did find a vacuum hose that was bad and replaced it. it still has the same problem.
  • Have you checked the idler solenoid codes? The idler bypass solenoid should stop this stall.
    You can check codes from the ignition switch. Turn the switch on, off and then on fairly quickly, and count the flashes from the check engine light. A series of two sets of five flashes in a row, is 55. That should always be the only code, unless the battery was recently disconnected and you will get a one two flash, which is 12, and then fifty five. Any code flashed before 55 code is a fault code.
  • One other thing. Did you resynchronize the throttle bodies after re installation?
  • I just got everything else repaired and now the LHS started overheating today. One thing i dont like about this particular vehicle is the cooling system. it has one of those self contained radiators that doesnt have a cap on top of it. the overflow tank is near the firewall on the passenger side. I have recently replaced the thermostat. ( I had to take it off when I replaced the intake manifold gaskets). what should i check first on the cooling system. We actually changed the fluid about 3 months ago. What is a good way to tell if the radiator is clogged?
  • Yes, I did Sync the throttle bodies. everything seems to have worked itself out. Please see my other post about the cooling system. Any info would be good


  • First assume that the over heating is related to your repair until proved otherwise.

    The first thing that comes to mind is air locks in the cooling system. When the radiator is drained AND filled the heater must be full on. If it wasn't then drain and start again. Also as it first warms up after filling, bleed off the air by opening the air release valve on top of the thermostat housing. Remember the heat must be switched full on with the engine running before draining, as it needs the electrics up and vacuum to set the heater full on.

    Talking of the thermostat, make sure it is correctly oriented. It is eccentric, so make sure it not only is the right way round, but that none of the struts is impeding flow. Most modern thermostats are very sensitive to correct orientation.

    The third and worst possibility is that you have leak of coolant into the manifold due to a gasket leak around a waterway on the intake manifold. Did you put a bead of blue RTV sealant around the waterways on the intake manifold, as specified in the repair manual? If you are leaking water and replacing it with air, then you should see a white sweet smelling exhaust, especially on first starting up.
    Also a plug or two will show evidence of water present during combustion.

    Those are my thoughts on things to check.
  • Is the original exhaust pipe spliced before or at the wye ?
  • nbeltnbelt Posts: 13
    so i got a working heater control and now it wont blow hot air?? im told that you have to take the entire dash out to access any of the components that could be causing this, i.e the actuator that opens and closes the door to allow hot air to come through. does anyone know if any of this stuff can be accessed without taking the dash out?
  • Your information is very sparse. What problems have you had, and why did you replace the ATC unit?

    As you select modes does air blow from the correct locations?

    Have you done any work on the cooling system, or drained it for any reason?

    The heating cooling system is complicated, and you need an accurate diagnosis before pulling ANYTHING apart.

    You can get fault codes from the ATC . Have the engine idling and the temperature set to 75 degrees. Hold down the top two left buttons and the top farthest right, (floor, mix and defrost). Hold them down simultaneously until the display section blinks, then release them at the same time. The display will blink for a while and then show any double digit trouble codes from 23 to 36.

    The display can only display one code at once. To move to the next code, press and release the lower left button (panel). Continue until all fault codes are displayed. Record them and post back here.
  • Man! i wish i had found this site earlier. I my transmition has a problem with stickin in first gear and my heater is out what did you do to fix your problems. Cause i am stilll having transmition problems after having it rebuilt
  • What could cause this car to burn to rich? I have decreased gas millage, decreased power and I can smell a gas/exhaust mix when I come to a stop light. I have to roll the windows down.

    What components are responsible for gas/air mixture?

  • I suspect it is not burning rich, but leaking gas, which is very dangerous. There was a recall on those vehicles, for leaking fuel rails. Check that this vehicle had the fuel rails replaced under the recall, by contacting a Chrysler dealer. Have them check you VIN and make sure the recall was done. If it was not done, get it done.

    Even the replaced rails fail more often than they should.

    Check for fuel leaks first, especially from the fuel rails. If there is no leak, then check engine codes which can be done from the ignition switch.
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