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Chrysler Concorde

L8_ApexL8_Apex Posts: 187
Those of you who have joined us from the recently
re-organized 98 Chrysler Concorde, 1999 Chrysler
Concorde LX and LXi
and 1997 Chrysler Concorde, any
comments or suggestions?
topics, please continue
your discussion here.

Welcome to you who have just joined us. You may
want to follow the above links for prior discussion
relating to this topic.

Thanks,

L8_Apex
Sedans Host
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Comments

  • Any comments on how the Concorde LXI would fair as a female Realestate agents vehicle ?

    Thanks.
  • hohohoho Posts: 64
    This makes surfing sooooo much easier...
    Great idea to put them in one place!

    To the "R/A"...
    How can you miss with a car like that! And the best part is the tax break. Ahhh, the best of both worlds.
  • chandler4chandler4 Posts: 2
    Thanks for your thoughts. I want to make certain that after several months that the car doesn't turn into one huge mushball when driven. The looks are great, I agree.
  • mugwump2mugwump2 Posts: 33
    My Wife is a Calif. Realestate agent and had a 95 LXi which worked quite well. We traded it on a 300M which works even better. Its the necessary size and has the appropriate fluff for the task. The LHS will work as well. My 2¢
  • cj1cj1 Posts: 1
    anyone else with concorde brake troubles?
  • hohohoho Posts: 64
    None yet... EWOO.... Eyes Wide Open
    (both of them)lmao :)
  • hohohoho Posts: 64
    Hey Mugwump2, You got money coming back. Most of my comments are only worth 1/2 a penny. I been keeping the left overs to get me 300M. I guess I gotta send them to you now. Darn and a new 300 would have been nice.

    ROFLMAO, HOHO
  • hohohoho Posts: 64
    I am retiring this box o rox for a new model. I wish to thank all of you for your help and knowledge on Chrysler and its good and bad. This computer goes to a school near here and I might get me a faster one. Maybe I'll step up to a 16mhz 8meg ram and a h/d w/2meg and one with with sound too. UMMMMMMM!!!

    Happy safe enjoyable motoring and tinkering. HOHO
  • sottosotto Posts: 1
    Right now Chrysler is offering a $1,000 rebate on a Concorde LXI. If I do my homework and know what the invoice is, how does that play in with making an offer? For instance invoice less rebate, invoice and be glad? Any suggestions?
  • charlesfcharlesf Posts: 28
    The rebate does not enter in to dealing with the salesman. Go for bow invoice price and then the rebate comes from Chrysler. It is no different then buying toothpaste and sending in for the rebate.
  • 300michael300michael Posts: 1,815
    Sense you are getting rid of you 755i, have you tried the Chrysler 300M with the PHP? It should drive more like your BMW did. Only two drawbacks #1 smaller trunk, and #2. looks are not quite as great as the Concorde.
  • hohohoho Posts: 64
    I have to differ with you. When you concede to lose you will. Don't give up the deal. The most powerful tools a consumer has is knowledge and research. Use your time to research all aspects to your benefit. Even if you have a notion that things can not be a certain way, be open to the concept that it can be different. Who would have believed that warranties are also a way that dealers get money from you. They do. Even if they show you in a book they print out what a warranty will cost, remmember who printed the book. Check out other sites or related links here on the net or even in a library. Go to a place where others communicate and just listen to them. Ask some questions and let them tell you some stuff you may or may not know.

    One way you may decide not to use a "rebate" is when it is part of a rebate or lower interest on your loan ploy to get you to buy.

    Meaning if they offer you a $1000 (any amount) rebate or lower fianancing rates (we'll say .09%). You need to know how long will the lower rate apply. Some are only for a certain time such as 3 years and then the rates jumps to the current level. I decided to use the manufacture's rebate (not a dealer rebate) on the car and financed the car through my credit union. They wanted 9.5 % and my credit union wanted 7%. I saved 2.5% of the bottom line for the duration of the loan. It adds up. I also paid for my warranty after I bought the car. In doing this the Warranty amount was never considered in the cost of the car or the loan. A couple of thousand dollars can might a big deal on the bottom line cost of the vehicle.

    Typically a car valued at $25,000 and with only 10% of that put down as a down payment leaves you with $22,500 in payments, plus any other charges such as interest on loans, warranties and anything else that may be figured in on the deal.
    A $22,500 payment could easily total out to almost $27000 or more!

    You need to research if you can get the interest lower somewhere else for the duration of the loan. If so then commpute the amount you will save going that route. And have the rebate applied to the loan by getting the car that much cheaper.

    But understand this, if you forgo the rebate to the value of the car you give up that money and in most cases they will do some number crunching to capture that amount for thier benefit. Please don't assume that you can not get a better deal if you really don't do all your homework. It will take some time from you but you will be rewarded with the knowledge you gain.

    Most dealers respect the consumer who does his/her homework. They may not act like it when you get into the "room" to deal. But close the deal and then ask them. You will be surprised. They might even ask you not to tell anyone else what you did and that it was good to deal with someone who was a challenge and prepared to do the right deal (this has happened to me). I guess as you can tell I kept my word to them.
    My only thought is that we might face the "opec" of dealership and manufactures in future years. Oh well I'll deal with that when it comes.

    No offense was infered to anyone. But give it a shot ... what do you have to lose and what do you have to gain? When the dealership tells you something remmember who is going to get waht maoney from who. And what would you do in his place if you were working there for pay?


    my new box o rocks is nicer.
  • charlesfcharlesf Posts: 28
    Whwt I was saying is do not let the dealer play games with the rebate. The rebate should not even enter enter into the conversation with the dealer.
  • hohohoho Posts: 64
    If you want to lose a chance to save some more money that is up to you. You just gotta work it in at the right time. And then it works. (like when you get up and decide to go home for the 3rd or 4th time and counter with the rebate.....)
  • xcdatxcdat Posts: 2
    Well, I just found a new problem on my '98 lxi. Near the windshield (that area where there is not vinyl covering) it looks like I have 3 or 4 spots that are beginning to peel. I have used a protectant, (Kiwi's vinyl protectant spray) that could be my problem I guess, not really sure. I would blame these hot Texas days, but I use a sun shield 99% of the time. I have tired of all these trips to the dealer, so I'm looking to trade this beast off, hopefully I will not have to try to get the dealer to fix this. I would be curious to know if anyone else has experienced this problem.
  • charlesfcharlesf Posts: 28
    Soooooooooo long it has been nice to know ya!
  • I have just discovered this forum and have been trying to make my way through all the postings! I too have had the window motor problems, the mud flap drag, and have had to have the driver's door panel replaced because of cracking near the window switches. I really love the car..have 22,000 miles on it (bought it June 98).

    However it has developed a terrible smell after it has been sitting for a while (several hours) and I turnon the air conditioning? Any hints?

    Also, I see that there are references to tsb's...are these available on the web?

    Oh, btw, I am one of the lucky ones who got the gold emblem on my wheels when I bought it!

    Thanks!
  • I have just discovered this forum and have been trying to make my way through all the postings! I too have had the window motor problems, the mud flap drag, and have had to have the driver's door panel replaced because of cracking near the window switches. I really love the car..have 22,000 miles on it (bought it June 98).

    However it has developed a terrible smell after it has been sitting for a while (several hours) and I turnon the air conditioning? Any hints?

    Also, I see that there are references to tsb's...are these available on the web?

    Oh, btw, I am one of the lucky ones who got the gold emblem on my wheels when I bought it!

    Thanks!
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    bengvall-

    Forgot to tell you- if you click on the number of your message, you can eliminate the double posting by "deleting"/scribbling one of the two messages.

    Hope this helps.

    fastdriver
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    i also have complained to nhtsa about their inaccurate data...government at its best i guess??
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