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Chrysler Concorde

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Comments

  • binubinu Posts: 81
    Does your measure solve the issue completely or does it only mask the issue ..?

    Read my posts # 229 and 231 in this same thread.

    By turning the lights to the maximum brightness your dash lights may not flicker but your headlights are still switching on and off ..?

    I have so far judged my issue to be related to the (mis)behavior of the sensor (doing something that it is not supposed to do ..?) ..

    I have this problem in all kinds of weather..
    I do not see this problem after it is dark outside.
  • debbies2debbies2 Posts: 2
    actually it's worse than just flickering dash light-the car's computer system won't start and the car won't start. the chrysler shop is stumped. we are dealing with a computer system that won't start when you start the car-but not always, an airbag light that comes on and remains on sometimes for as long as the car is on and anti-lock brakes that kick in at anytime you are driving, be that 10 mph backing down the driveway to 60 mph on the highway!cmputer was changed to a 97 computer since there is an obvious electrical problem, but that has not corrected the problem. it is like my car is possessed by the devil-help!!
  • binubinu Posts: 81
    To further strengthen my sensor theory ..

    I have never seen this behavior when I cover the sensor with a cap or something else ...
  • mh4mh4 Posts: 1
    My 1994 Concorde recently began to perform a "light dance" on the message center. The Traction Control 'On', Traction Control 'Off' and ABS brakes lights all begin to blink on and off at various times. They may all stay on at once for a time. The Trac Cont 'On' sometimes flickers while the other two stay on. I hear lots of clicking and rumbling from the dash and hood area while this is happening.

    The scariest thing is that while my I'm sitting at a light (or anytime I have the brakes applied for more than 20 secs.), the lights may come on and with each appearance my brakes makes a noise and the pedal "falls" down a notch under my foot.

    I don't know if this is a sensor problem or if the ABS and/or Traction Control systems are failing. The On/Off button for the trac cont seems to be useless during these experiences. Any ideas or similar war stories out there?
  • djwakeleedjwakelee Posts: 3
    It sounds like your problem is definitely something else. For me, the dash lights, radio, climate control, and overhead console would just flicker between the full on (the level when the lights are off) and the dim setting. This is similar to what some other people have experienced, but not the same as your headlight issue. Headlights were not affected. Not sure what your history is with your vehicle, but it sounds like the body controller needs to be replaced.

    Good luck,
    Dave
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    if your car is doing everything you say it is, why in the world do you still have it and why are u still driving it? anti-lock brakes kicking in for no reason, especially if you are not even pushing on the brake pedal sounds highly suspicious. i suggest you take your problems to the national highway traffic and safety administration.
  • frank58frank58 Posts: 54
    After 1000 miles the car has been flawless. This is the 1st car I will take in for the 1000 mile LOF that I have had no issues. I keep hearing about the road noise, mine is not bad at all. I will continue to keep all informed, but so far so good
  • binubinu Posts: 81
    Even in my case ... the dash lights, radio,
    climate control, and overhead console just
    flickers between the full on (the level when the
    lights are off) and the dim setting.

    Does this phenomena happen even when your headlight switch is turned to the off position ..?

    In my case .. this phenomena happens only when my headlight is in the ON position.

    At the time the dash lights, radio,
    climate control, and overhead console lights get set to the bright position ( the level when the lights are off ) .. at this time my headlights are also getting switched off ....

    As I have said before .. none of this happens when it is dark outside..

    About the history of my car ....
    I once had to get the driver's side window motor replaced.
    The car has been otherwise flawless and a pleasure to drive ....
    Excuse my impudence .. but I enjoy it more than my friend's 1999 Lincoln Continental.
  • elvisp1elvisp1 Posts: 1
    My '97 concorde has unintended acceleration during heavy acceleration (ie. merging into traffic). Had the engine and transmission computers reprogrammed last year and the problem persists. Any suggestions??
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    what are u talking about?? unintended acceleration during acceleration...WHAT!
  • fritofrito Posts: 70
    I think you forgot to have them turn off the afterburner option.
  • ripshawripshaw Posts: 1
    Has anyone else had problems with the front end suspension on the 2000 Concorde?
    About a month after driving my new 2000 Concorde, I began to hear a rattle in the front end during slow braking. This rattle grew worse until I took it into my dealer. The dealer acknowledged a TSB on the front struts and agreed to replace one side. (What a cheesy deal...last time I checked a car had two struts in the front). After the car stayed in the shop for 5 days, I got it back. Everything was fine for about a week, when the other side began making the same noise. (Gee, Duh, that's a real surprise since the car was built using a substituted part from the factory you would think DChrysler would be a little proactive and fix what is eventually going to break). Upon inspection, the dealer noticed that the replacement strut was now leaking and the other (previously unchanged) strut was having problems. Of course, there was never any offer of a loaner car and the parts are on back order. Indeed, my car is a $28K rattle trap. At this point, I am incredibly frustrated and disappointed in the 2000 Concorde. I guess this is what Lemon Laws are for.
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    why in the world would your car be in the shop for five days? you could have driven it until they got the replacement strut. and good luck trying to invoke the lemon law over said strut...
  • mmanson2mmanson2 Posts: 4
    My 1998 chrysler concorde has had a problem with
    windows sticking in the up position. The problem occurred in the heat of the day and when it cooled
    down outside I was able to lower windows. I have found out that damp moisture has got into the window tracks causing them to stick at the top
    rubber part. The Dealer said it is a problem and
    the tracks and upper rubber parts needs regular
    cleaning with lubrication in tracks and on rubber. They said with silicone for lubrication.
    I understand that a lot of customers with Chrysler concord 's, 300m 's and LHS 's have
    been burning out power window motor's because of the problem.
    My dad 's 1999 Chrysler LHS burned out his drivers window motor because of the problem.
    Note! neither myself or my dad have a garage
    to keep a car in so both vehicles are in the
    outside weather at all times.
  • srinacarsrinacar Posts: 14
    Just an update - Since September 99 I've been at odds with DChrysler about my leased 2000 Concorde LXI LEMON. About a month ago they finally agreed to replace the car. They could not provide the exact same car, color etc. I agreed to take anothr 2000 LXI in another color (since I only had a choice of two, and one had a bench seat!) They set the car aside and started the process. Yesterday I was told I would have to pay the difference in MSRP plus tax, a paperwork fee and 18 cents a mile for the miles I put on before the car got sick. But, my replacement would fit right into my lease minus the miles I already used!! So now I pay twice for the miles? Also, the difference in MSRP is for the sole difference - wheels. My white car has alloys - but the only one they offered me (silver)has chrome. So I have to pay for the wheels?? Do you think they will let me keep them when I return the car in 2 years? After all, they aren't going to residualize them, like any other lease. Here is th real joke - when I leased the car we negotiated the price on a car in stock - with chrome wheels. Since the only color they had then was silver, they had to get me a white one from aonther dealership. I accepted the alloys because they looked good on a whit car, but we didn't rduce the pice. Now, since I didn't bust balls then, I must pay again for the chrome. The moral of the story is this - my Chrsler is garbage, and the Chrysler engineers that have tried six times to fix two recurring problems are, at best, incompetent. But most important of all, Chrysler's view of customer srevice is warped. After all the time my NEW car spent in the shop, they act like they are doing me a favor by replacing it. I will decline their silly offer and pursue a lemon law claim through the Attorney General in my state. To all futur Chrysler customers - beware - what looks so good might be junk, and the fools that cannot fix their own product and only half heartedly stan behind it cannot be trusted.
  • ramronramron Posts: 8
    I have a '94 Concorde purchased in Nov '93, and now have over 125K miles. Sorry you are having problems. Mine still runs strong.

    Have not had your problem, but noticed the system ground terminal mounted under the battery when replacing it a couple of years ago. This is not a good place for the system ground as it could become corroded and possibly create all sorts of control problems.

    Just to make sure it wouldn't happed to me, I added an additional ground wire and fastened it to a screw next to the hood bumper.

    If you haven't been able to get your problems fixed as yet,you might try adding a temporary ground with a jumper from the battery ground (black) to a good clean shinny bolt or nut. Also before you give up and buy a Ford, look at the "blue oval" site.

    Good luck, ramron
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    ramron-

    That link is http://www.blueovalnews.com/

    fastdriver
  • biguycoopbiguycoop Posts: 1
    Thanks for saving me some money, I was thinking about looking for a used Concorde lxi, but I don't need the headaches of a rattle trap or front struts that leak and thump. Going to M/B. Good luck and Bye
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    better be careful, the m-class has a history of developing some chrysler traits...ie cheap trim and rattles.
  • binubinu Posts: 81
    ..O Boy.. I am starting to feel privileged about owning a Chrysler...

    People buying M/B also consider Chrysler Concorde ..?
  • macarthur2macarthur2 Posts: 135
    the first time I saw the Concorde I was really taken with the front end styling. But now it's like the effect has worn off. Has anyone noticed this as well? The rear end is terrible and has been from the start. I just think the Dodge Intrepid comes off handsomer (?) in the long run.
  • david144david144 Posts: 3
    I have a 2000 Concorde LX with the 2.7 engine. Overall, I really like the car but there is one thing--the transmission. At low speeds (coming to a stop, stop and go, etc) the downshifting is terrible. It doesn't seem to know what gear it is downshifting to. If you suddenly accelerate again while it is almost stopped, it engages very crudely and abruptly. the low speed downshifts are very pronounced. Please tell me this isn't normal!!! At regular speeds, it is great. They have reprogrammed the transmission once and that helped a little but this is still a very crude transmission. Anyone else experienced this? I have wind noise and a few buzzes too. Overall, still satisfied but not as much as I was as this could get to be very annoying over the years. I know I wasn't buying a Lexus (did't cost like a Lexus either!) but my Neon tranny was better than this.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    david144-

    LOL.......welcome to the world of Chrysler. This is ONE time when the "5-STAR" dealer says "they all do this", believe it!! LOL... I assume that your Concorde has the same "learning" transmission as my 99 300M. I have the SAME experiences as you! One way to change the pattern for a while anyway is to pull the TCM fuse under the hood. On my 300, it's located on the driver's side, behind the windshield washer container. Lift the cover off the long black box there. Look for the fuse that says TCM. Pull it out for 15 minutes or longer and then replace it. This will erase the tranny's memory and start learning your driving patterns all over again. It may shift rough for about 100 miles or so, then calm down. This will last for several months until it needs to be done again.

    Good luck!

    fastdriver
  • david144david144 Posts: 3
    Thanks for the info on the tranny. Hope MB can add a little refinement in the future but it won't help us. Hard to believe they can't do better than that--it's the worst auto transmission I've had in 15 years.
  • fritofrito Posts: 70
    I too (and still am) very much taken with the front end of the >98 Concorde. That wide oval egg crate grille is a wonderful throwback to the European sports cars (Ferrari, Aston Martin etc.) of the 60's. The rear end is OK - my ideal car would have the front end of the Concorde and the rear end of the Intrepid or 300M. And maybe Chrysler has produced such with the 2001 Sebrings. Each one is slightly different - but with the same wide grille. I have'nt seen a picture of the rear ends yet, but they appear to be more 300M-like. Check them out at the Chryslercars.com web site. The wide grille may be more appropriate on these smaller sedans/coupes than on the bigger Concorde. But, I still like mine!

    fastdriver - THANKS FOR THE TIP ON RESETTING THE TRANSMISSION! I only have occasional rough downshifts while cornering at just the right (or wrong) speed. Upshifts are still smooth as silk.
  • topictopic Posts: 3
    My wife and I are shopping around for a p/o vehicle. We found a 95 Concorde with about 100kms/60ks. It seems like a very nice car. I noticed all the postings on here there seems to be very little probs with them. Does tihs mean they are a reliable car? They are asking 6800.00 cdn for it. Any info on this would be great. Thannks in advance Ron
  • chas737chas737 Posts: 1
    I have a 94 Concord, 3.5, w/ only 117,000 miles on it. The Dodge parked alongside of it has only 273,000.
    I have been having a problem w/ the AC, it seems when I park w/the windows closed and it gets hot in the passenger area, the AC will work for a little while then blow hot air. I know when this is going to happen because the speedo will start erratic movement, the airbag light come on and other trouble lights in the dash seem to flicker off and on.
    Any help or thoughts???
    Thanks to any and all. By the way, I've had many different cars, and this Concord is a very fine road car. I enjoy it very much.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Posts: 2,273
    chas737-

    Trying going to: http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov and then click on problems and issues under the red car. Then click on TSB and put in the appropriate info for your car. You might find something there.

    fastdriver
  • jayess1jayess1 Posts: 7
    At 5700 miles my LXi is being fit for a new engine. It blew last week and I seem to be at their mercy as to what I cn do.

    Has anyone out there had any experience with blown engines at low mileage. If so, what did they do for you? Chrysler says they will take it to original specs. They didn't even want to pay for my renatl car. Incidentally this happened about 200 miles from my home.

    Any experiences out there?
  • emaleemale Posts: 1,380
    blown engines in lh cars are extremely rare! a very knowledgeable service tech told me that the only problems he has ever seen in lh engines were related to water pump failures...and that was back in the mid 90s. what actually happened that made your engine inoperable?
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