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Chrysler Concorde

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Comments

  • so waht was the out come cause my car is doing the same thing !
  • the timing blet is in need of replacement my worry is finding a mechanic an if it will be a costly repair it is a 2000 chrysler concorde lxi
  • I just picked up a 99 concorde - i had passed the state inspection but the check engine light was on - i went to the local auto parts store and used the free diagnosis tool to see the codes - one of the codes was p0700 which told me it was a transmission PROBLEM - i then found 3 transmission places that gave free diagnosis i was commonly told it was the transmission input and output sensors - prices ranged from $180 to $800 for repair - be aware it was in whats called limp mode ( would not shift into higher gears) - went back to auto parts store and picked up sensors for $17 each - they are both located on the same side of transmission (drivers side) take your time on removing connectors - i used a small screw driver to release lock and a 1 inch deep socket to remove and install sensors - pay attention to the part which enters the transmission ( thats the only difference between the two sensors ) - do not over-tighten and check wires and connectors - total time that it took me was about 20 min. - happy to say 200 miles later the car is still running great. I hope this info would be helpful. PEACE
  • I just picked up a 99 concorde - i had passed the state inspection but the check engine light was on - i went to the local auto parts store and used the free diagnois tool to see the codes - one of the codes was p0700 which told me it was a transmisson PROBLEM - i then found 3 transmission places that gave free diagnois i was commonly told it was the transmission input and output sensors - prices ranged from $180 to $800 for repair - be aware it was in whats called limp mode ( would not shift into higher gears) - went back to auto parts store and picked up sensors for $17 each - they are both located on the same side of transmisson (drivers side) take your time on removing connectors - i used a small screw driver to release lock and a 1 inch deep socket to remove and install sensors - pay attention to the part which enters the transmisson ( thats the only difference between the two sensors ) - do not overtighen and check wires and connectors - total time that it took me was about 20 min. - happy to say 200 miles later the car is still running great. I hope this info would be helpful. PEACE
  • WHEN I RUN CAR ON INTERSTATE FOR ABOUT 30 TO FORTY MILES THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT BLINKS AND COMES TO A COMPLETE STOP - BUT IF I WAIT AN HOUR OR MORE THE CAR WILL START WITH NO PROBLEM - SCANNED AND THESE CODES APPEARED - CAN ANY ONE HELP ME WITH THIS PROBLEM I HAVE CHANGED THE CRANK AND CAM SENSORS AND CLEARED THE CODES BUT THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERE---HELP PLEASE
  • I have a 2002 with the exact same problem. I have heard ignition switch...so I replaced the tumbler, this did not fix it. Did you ever figure out what was wrong & how to fix it?

    Thanx - Bob
  • toda1toda1 Posts: 1
    My 1994 Chrysler Concord with a 3.3L engine would inadvertently shut off without warning. Set and cooled for about 5 - 10 minutes; re started and drove until it warmed up to operating temp and then abruptly shut off. Changed the coil ~ started ran for about 10 minutes and shut off. Changed out the coil again and now it won't start. Checked the fuses to the fuel pump, and relays under the hood. Changed out two relays for good luck. Now it doesn't start at all and have connected the battery charger. Check fire to fuses - good. No current to the coil: when I turn on the switch or try to start...no current. Have current to the fuses under the cover in the car. No obvious fuses blown. I'm sure some one has had this problem before...any thoughts - please....
  • Hiya,

    I'm new here .. and am looking for a new 'used' car. Thinking of either a Honda Accord, Civic or Hyundai Elantra. But now my heart is sad that I have to give up the power of my Chrysler.

    It has such power still! Take off is strong ... and I think about 145,000. Only thing is, the AC is broke again, and the body is going really bad quickly (hood and top of car is peeling paint and bubbling up).

    I need AC because of a health issue .. get very sick in the humidity, so it's a must ... but man, sometimes I just want to fix him up and keep him. :)

    Sooo .... I know Hondas are great cars that last ... all thought it's hard to find one in my price range, now I'm thinking of looking at a new Concorde instead. Just not sure if I should stay with such a large car (gas wise).

    My question was though: should I keep the Concorde for parts, or sell it? It runs great right now, it's just the hood and top. If I get a newer one, parts might not fit ... so maybe I should sell it for BO? What do you think?

    Oh hey .. great meeting you all!

    Diana
  • alv1969alv1969 Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    What is the best and cheap way to remove very heavy sludge and trouble shoot a knock that sounds like its at the top of the engine. After about 2mins of running the oil light comes on, i can wait until the next day and restart the car and the oil light is off but after 1 or 2 mins it comes back on. Need help please :sick:
  • winter2winter2 Posts: 1,796
    I am assuming that you have the 2.7L V-6 and if it is sludged up, you have a serious problem. Also since you have the knocking sound, that too is not a good sign. If you are getting an oil pressure light after two minutes of running and the crankcase is full, then the screen on the oil pump pickup is probably clogged with goo. If you put any kind of engine cleaner in the crankcase, there is a pretty good chance that you will destroy the engine and possibly spin a bearing when you loosen up all of the goo that has accumulated.

    The best way to prevent sludge is with good care and using synthetic oil. My wife has a 1998 Concorde with the 2.7L V-6 and it has been on a diet of synthetic oil since it was 3000 miles old (now has 61K miles). The top end of the engine is spotless and the valve train is quiet, there is no knocking or anything like that.
  • hey- i also own a 94! same thing happened when i 1st bought mine. it was about $10 crank shaft sensor. on passager side on the transmission. it drove me absolutely nuts till we figured it out!!!!
  • starchild85starchild85 Posts: 2
    edited August 2010
    i own a used '94 concorde. been thru the crank shaft sensor when it was shutting off while in mid-drive. fixed that. my main concern is with the check engine light that comes on everytime i drive it now. especially if i try 2 accelerate fast 2 get on the hwy or something. it also kinda jerks & i hear a funny sound come from under the hood if i let off the gas 2 fast?? i also hear a wierd thud when i go ovr decent sized bumps?? wtf is that all about? plz help! i drive daily & i have a toddler. i need a reliable car. cheap fix would be gr8! cuz i dont have alotta $$$ 2 throw around. hense the reason y im driving a car thats ovr a decade & a half old! i actually kinda like this car, its comfy, gr8 on gas, but if its gonna nickel & dime me then i dont want it! :(
  • the jerking could be dirty throttle bodies. the egr valve gets cruddy as well and she wont idle and has less power. you can take that apart and clean it. the throttle bodies need a wiping out after spraying them with a product like berryman B12 chemtool. spray NO silicone around the intake linkage as it could get in the intake and contaminate your oxygen sensors [expensive]. you need to see if the system is showing any trouble codes. autozone has a free scan tool service. this will display them, if any. they will tell us where to start looking for solutions.

    the thud is probably your left stabilizer bar bushing [not expensive] or something is loose on your front end. todd in carlsbad, ca.
  • anybody know the electronic system for this car, or LH's in general??
    I put a 94 3.5v6 and 42le in my 89 vw vanagon and I need to get it running. some one with engineer level knowledge and skill--to mask the data signals for a normal stock running condition. vehicle was intact and passed california smog 3 months ago,[july2010]. seems nobody wants to touch this one......I have all the wiring from the car, all components except door sensors. it has all the features including atc and vtss. dealer mechs shy away too. I need to learn the operating nature of this system so I can enable it. see the project here thanks--todd/carlsbad,ca.
    http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412486&highlight=middie
  • if you have experiences with your LH type car, 94-95, malfunctions and cures electrically, regarding the antitheft, engine, trans, etc, please share. I want to learn the nature of this model. any narrative from factory/good mechanics about what went wrong is needed. see this project in action-

    http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412486&highlight=middie
  • in the late eighties there was the CVIC, [chrysler vehicle information communication] system that connected 3 control modules. japanese systems used control modules for the fuel injection systems only, as late as 1994. [toyota trucks] the ccd bus was a revolutionary response to the new emissions requirements of the nineties. more communication was more data and more control of functions.
  • We only got 34000 miles then had to replace the engine. Guess what...Niether warranty covered with PROOF OF MAINTENANCE!!! No more Chryslers for us,
  • terandterand Posts: 1
    your message was posted in 2000?---i was just wondering how you feel about the chrysler s today???? thanks te
  • It depends on which engine. I had the timing belts replaced on my 1994 Concorde and it cost me about $740. When it comes right down to it, on a 3.5 liter engine, provided you have the right tools, it's not a hard job to do yourself. It would cost you less to buy the tools to do it. I recommend a small air compressor with impact wrenches to remove the fanbelt wheels.
  • elisab26elisab26 Posts: 1
    OMG, I am having the same issue, only mines will start just fine but after driving for 10-15 mins, it acts as if it wants to shut off, stalls, slows down and then completely shuts off. Took it to the shop and was told it was the trans but after having the trans fixed and drove it away from the shop, it cut off again could this be the same issue?
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