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Buick Park Avenue

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Comments

  • The magnet will work and reset the gauges. My 2001 PA had a low battery and after jump starting, the temperature and fuel gauge pegged below the stop pin. When you turn the key on the gauges try to function but cant get past the pin.

    With the key in the "OFF" position use a magnet and rotate the gauge needle counter clockwise 360 degrees until it pegs in the cold or empty position. They should stay in that position now. Turn the key to "ON" and the gauges should work correctly. You do not have to disconnect the battery.

    It may take several tries with the magnet to get the needle to the position that you want.

    The magnets strength should pick up a half dollar size flat washer from 1 inch. A little bit stronger would be ok.
  • xman3xman3 Posts: 3
    thanks to you and everyone who posted about fuel gauge problems with park avenues. my 97 has been inop for 2 years and fixed it with a magnet.manny thanks.charles
  • epbepb Posts: 2
    My wife's car has a small problem, the seat control on the passenger side keeps popping out of the seat. The dealership has tried at least four times to fix it but still comes out. The last try consisted of putting a long screw through the cover. It held the longest but eventually failed too. They then told my wife they would have to order a new cover and fasteners, but they haven't called to say they have them, it's been two weeks. has anyone else had this problem, and is there some magic fix for the cover.
  • 03 Park Avenue. 42K. Check engine lite comes on for unknown reason. No codes. Changed gas cap, careful when filing tank. Reset lite and that may be OK for a month. No two times the same. Any suggestions?
  • rbburgrbburg Posts: 4
    The car has started to run extremely rough. Some days it will run fine for a little bit then starts running rough. I used a jumper wire from the A to the B terminal and the diagnostic mode flashed the service engine soon light the three times. Then it continued to flash the code 1-2 over and over. Is this normal? Does anyone know what else I should try? Anything will help.

    Thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    How many miles on it? Fuel pump been replaced? Fuel filter replaced?

    Have the spark plugs been replaced with Delco/AC plugs for that car in the last 30 K miles? Have the spark plug wires been replaced with original equipment wires? in last 50K miles?

    If it runs rough the first thing to check is there. You might look for a plug wire that has pulled partly off the plug causing a gap.

    Second would be the 3 coils to see that the connections there aren't corroded. You might remove the coils and inspect them for tracking, cracks, etc.

    There are other things that can cause your problem, but look for the cheapest and most common first.

    If it runs better while cold meaning running a little rich, that too could be hint what's happening.

    Many people have failures of the cam sensor magnet and / or the crankshaft sensor. IF it is crankshaft sensor the usual symptom is that it stalls, won't restart for a while, and then starts and runs. The cam sensor has a magnet that's on the cam that comes loose in its plastic housing.

    Don't spend money throwing parts at the car. It's better to spend money for competent mechanic to diagnose the problem and fix that one thing.
  • rbburgrbburg Posts: 4
    There are a 110,000 miles on the car. I know the plugs and wires have not been changed. I thought I would start there first. Although this problem was only when the roads were wet or snowy and now it's fairly constant.

    Where are the three coils located?

    Thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    Do the plugs and wires with AC Delco plugs and proper OEM wires. The coils are right front of the motor--the plug wires all go to them. Just inspect the tops without unbolting them for now--if the plugs and wires have not been changed it's way past due.
  • rbburgrbburg Posts: 4
    I changed the plugs and wires with no luck in fixing the problem. While test driving it after the plug/wire change it started in with it's cutting out. When it goes into it "fit" I noticed a clicking sound coming from under the passengers side dashboard lower where your feet would be. Then the speedometer needle stops working and the car developes a stuter and miss.
    Any idea want to look at next?

    Thanks.
  • Hello,
    Just recently I starting having an issue with the Service Stability System light coming on. I have associated this light with a braking issue that also just started. Intermittently when braking and starting a turn to the right there is a nasty grinding noise, which sounds like it's coming from the brakes. It will stop once I start to accelerate and pull out of the turn. I took the vehicle into the Buick dealer for service. They replaced the brakes, calibers were reworked, etc. I was told it was fixed but within a day it did it again. I took the vehicle back to the shop and this time they replaced a sensor they said was bad. Now according to what I have read on various places on the web, if a sensor is bad then not only will the Service Stability System light go on, but the ABS light will go on as well as the Traction Off light. Neither of these came on so now I am wondering if the sensor was really bad?

    The vehicle is still having the same problems and yesterday it was bad enough that when I released the brake and started to press on the gas (turning to the right) the grinding noise did NOT go away and it actually kept slowing the vehicle down. I had to jerk the wheel to the left before whatever was causing this problem would let loose and I could drive away.

    The dealership repair shop has NO clue what is going on. Heck, they didn't even know what the Service Stability System light was for?

    Can anyone shed some light on my problem?

    Buick Park Avenue
    Year: 2000

    Thank you,
    Steve
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    The grinding sound may be the ABS/Traction system applying the brake and releasing quickly. It may be doing that even though there's no slipping at that wheel like in a quick start. That may be why it was slowing the car down. For instance in rapid acceleration if the left front slips the brake on the left front is applied to to keep power going to the right front until the left front gets traction.

    I saw a post where someone applied dielectric grease to the connections at the sensors on the hubs and reconnected them to reseal them on the fronts and that stopped the service stability system message.
  • It's a grind like metal to metal. The 1st thought I had when I heard it was a vehicle that had NO front brake disc left and it was metal on metal. Of course this isn't what it is since we've had all the brakes replaced, calipers reworked, etc.

    This only happens intermittently. Picture yourself driving along and everything is fine. Then you must make a right turn up ahead so you start to slow down. You apply the brakes (still all is fine) and once you start the turn to the right the grinding sound starts. Normally, when you release the brake during the right turn the sound and vibration will stop. It was just this last time it happened it did not stop when I released the brake. It even continued to hold when I pressed on the gas. My 1st reaction was to jerk the wheel slightly to the left then back again to the right and it released.

    Road surface is smooth, dry, consistent (not loose).

    Strange part is it doesn't always happen. I would say it's about 2 times out of 50 it will happen when I start a turn to the right while braking.

    The sensor that was replaced was a steering sensor. Least that is what I was told by the Buick repair shop.

    A person mentioned the wheel bearing so I have written this down on my list of suspects for the mechanic. It's very difficult to change to a different Buick mechanic. We are in the middle of nowhere, USA and this is the only Buick mechanic service around for 100's of miles.

    I would like to thank you for your information. I will continue to watch and hope for more replies with more information. The more the better.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    From listening, I'd check the connections at the wheel sensors. Pack them with dieelectric grease. Flex the wires to see if there's a break in the wiring that goes to the wheel sensors?

    The wheel bearings in the hub could be a problem. But defective wheel bearings give a snow tire like buzz that grows louder and becomes easier to feel through the chassis. And they self destruct as they become worse with driving.

    The sensor they replaced is on the steering column and tells the computer where the steering wheel is in its travel so that the computer knows if you are steering in a turn and that the car's not reacting and the VSC tries to apply single brakes in a manner to help turn the car based on what the steering input is requesting.

    There are other sensors involved in telling the computer what the car is doing. There is a sensor on the rear package shelf that senses what the car is doing with regard to inertia, for example.

    This sounds frustrating. The factors are: it happens when turning to the right; it reacts to flexing/moving the chassis parts left and right; it happens only when braking.

    The connectors to the wheel speed sensors are flexed along with the wiring when turning. Does it happen turning to the left?

    The streering wheel position sensor also is giving inputs during that time and is being moved when you move the wheel left and right.

    The wheel bearing is also being changed in position during the turn and is taking forces differently than normal.

    The brake pads and caliper and rotor are involved because you're braking along with the ABS/traction control system. A loose/worn wheel bearing could be letting the rotor and hub move relative to the wheel speed sensor. There's an air gap size that's needed there. If it become greater than it should be the sensor would lose its ability to read correct the wheel speed. It could be thinking the wheel ir turning faster than it should and apply that one brake to slow down the wheel--just like if it were slipping on ice.

    I'm not an expert on these systems and I've read a lot of people on forums working on problems, but not quite like yours. Sometimes replacement wheel bearings have been a problem. New isn't always right. Stick with name quality brand if a wheel bearing is indicated.

    If you work on your own car, I'd jack up the wheel and move the wheel 3 and 9 o'clock and see if you get looseness and do the same at 12 and 6. Don't move the steering links when you're testing and don't count the ball joint movement that may occur when jacked up. Then do the same on the left side. If there's a difference in amount, then I'd start thinking wheel bearing.
  • Thank you for all the information. We are taking the car into the shop today to see if they can find the problem. I have printed all the information given to me from this forum and a couple of other forums. Hopefully they will figure it out with all this help.
  • lnaylorlnaylor Posts: 1
    I have waited four years for people to start posting somewhere about this problem. My symptoms are the same and the car has been in the shop 6 times for it the latest time just last week (not fixed)

    replaced hubs
    replace ABS control twice
    replace computer once

    unable to reproduce systems 3 times even though the car once went home with the mechanic over 100 miles away

    if anyone has an answer please email me it or for my phone number to tell me it and I will pay for the answer. I only have 3000 miles left on my warranty and want to fix it once and for all
  • jereojereo Posts: 8
    It"s NOT the car----it's the TIRES
    I too had a vibration on my 99PA. Had the Goodyears removed and replaced with Michelins--------over 35000 miles ago and no problems.
  • smallbitessmallbites Posts: 6
    Maybe one of you great folks can help. ABS light on, code reads left rear. Replaced assembly in left rear, light still on. (was able to return assembly :) ). Now looking for short in connections. Any idea where wire connects to ABS system, or for that matter, where ABS system is? I havn't crawled around yet and was hoping for a short cut. Thanks
  • All:
    I am purchasing a 03-05 Park Ave Ultra and would like any comments, concerns current owners have with their Ultra's Any assistance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
  • bah23bah23 Posts: 1
    I have a "bearing sounding" noise when engine is under load (e.g. A/C) at 1,100 - 1,200 rpm only. I've had the A/C compressor replaced and the alternator replaced but still hear the noise (although noise less intense since alternator replaced). So, after about $1,500 worth of repairs, I'm still hearing this noise.

    Reputable autoshop (0 complaints on BBB last 3 years) doing work. Took it back after alternator was replaced and had owner and mechanic listen to the noise. All agree noise still present but less intense. Mechanic noticed a brace behind supercharger and alternator was missing and said that probably caused the bearings in the alternator and a/c compressor to fail due to excessive torque and I should have the brace replaced.

    Any thoughts on my situation?

    Thanks in advance
  • Howdy bah23:
    The Supercharger (SC) coupler is your probable cause for the noise. The fine minds in GM engineering decided to run Eaton SC's on many models for a 40 HP boost. The 97-05's had a redeigned front snout with an oil capacity of 8 oz's compared to the old design (90-96) of 4 oz. Right around 75K miles, the forward gears / coupler will start to chirp and chatter under a minor load. This area of the SC runs extremely hot and the sump oil is the only cooling available inside the SC. The inner gear surfaces start to deteriate, the metallic fillings from the gears immerse / float in the oil, and lubrication properties diminish and the chatter and noise increases. The car will not skip or lose power and it will still move on down the road rather quickly! If the SC oil hasn't been changed out once or twice, during normal maintenance, the noise / chatter from the coupler will increase in tone. GM service manuals don't mention changing the SC oil at 40K or any mileage!! I own a 97 Ultra with 130K and R&R'd the SC back at 115K. The supplier for the SC is here in Edmond OK and is by far a premier overhaul shop for Eaton, Paxton and a bunch of other blowers and turbo's for the OEM and hot rod markets. Check out P S E Superchargers. 758 Enterprise Dr Edmond, OK 73013. (405) 844-2773 ... 900 N Santa Fe Ave Edmond, OK 73003-4337. (405) 341-2900 ..I located them thru a Buick owners web forum. The owner gave me a shop tour and I purchased a rebuilt / replacement unit ($500 with core) and changed it out a few months back. I worked for Buick, AMC / Jeep back in the 70'-80's while in college and still do a lot of my own maintenance keeping the fleet running. Best of luck and keep in touch. RB
  • gcraiggcraig Posts: 11
    While wiring a trailer my left running light went out on the car and the trailer, (right afer I fixed a poor ground connection for the left light on the trailer). It worked for a minute then went out along with the back left car light. I replaced the car bulb but still it won't work. I checked the fuses under the hood and they seem fine. Is there another fuse box or something I might be missing here?
  • gcraiggcraig Posts: 11
    I love my '98 PA but there is a problem with the '97 or '96 thru '99 (?) PA's you need to know about. The intake manifolds are made of a composite (plastic type) material that degrades over time with heat from the exhaust that is recycled through it for emissions control. Mine just stopped running one day and when I had it towed in the dealer wanted over $1000 to fix it. I was told i was lucky that the overflowing coolant from the hole in the intake manifold didn't seize my engine and ruin it altogether which is, as they said, "common" for this year. I found a repair on line for $70 or so - a steel tube arrangement that is epoxy glued into the area where the break occurs. I'm an MRB (repair) engineer on Boeing Aircraft and feel the repair is excellent and used it, but nobody would do it for me because it's not "factory" authorized. Anyway, if I buy another PA from this era I would put in the repair right off the bat before I risked the damage possible from a leak. It took me a while since I'm not really a talented mechanic. I can’t recall where I bought the repair but if you do a few internet searches you should find it. Good luck!
  • gcraiggcraig Posts: 11
    I posted this earlier but it must not have made it 'cause I can't find the post now. Sorry if it's a repeat.
    I replaced my rotors and brake pads (used high quality ones). Over time vibration is increasing - again. Now its so bad that I'm going to be turning my new rotors to smooth our the ride. Do you think its the calipers ruining the rotors by causing them to overheat? Or, is this a typical design-type error for this vehicle? Or, is it something else? Thanks for any suggestions anyone can give me.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    The post was from 2004. The company is APN I believe. It's a popular item for the small fraction of cars from 1996 to 1999 that have the EGR tube deteriorate due to the heat going through it. Dorman also makes a replacement manifold with a replacement EGR metal tube that is placed into the lower intake manifold. It has increased air clearance.

    Any shop that does repairs would have put in the manifold for you. A GM store probably wouldn't.
  • gcraiggcraig Posts: 11
    Oops! I wondered after I sent the post in reply when he had submitted his post! I'm pretty new to this kind of site. Sorry but thanks for the info!
  • gcraiggcraig Posts: 11
    I have 3 questions.
    1) Does anyone know where I can get an ashtray from the front dash of a 98 P.A.? I bought one yers ago and it's broken again (the latch has snapped off. color is unimportant as I can rebuild it but cost is important and I'm looking for a used one from a wrecking yard. Thanks.
    2) My windows are giving me some trouble. The back left one will not roll down all the time. Once in a while it works, then it stops working for months. Luckily it is always in the up position when it stops functioning.
    Also, my passenger side front window rolls dosn fine some times but then it won't roll down all the way when the weather is rainy. It stops about 3/4" fromt he top and will go back up but seems stuck or jammed up somehow.
    3) My driver's side door latch broke inside somewhere. It just went "Click" and it seems that the mechanism has failed inside the door since the handle flips up easily but doesn't engage the latch.

    Thanks for help with any of these three items.
  • dafraqdafraq Posts: 6
    Hello, I am considering buying a PA Ultra with 52,000 miles on it. I am not familiar with Buicks and I would like to know if there are any service issues I should be aware of. What I do know is that the fuel gauge does not work. It appears to have gone clockwise and is resting below the needle under the E. The A/C does not work. I feel like these are minor issues but are they repairable? Are these typically good cars?

    Thank you,

    David
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    The gas gauge needles are fixable. People have removed dash cover and lifted the needle over the post. Some drill a small hole in the plastic and use a paperclip to lift the needle. Someone else talked about using a magnet to lift it.
  • 97ultra97ultra Posts: 14
    The gas gauge problem is easily fixable. Same thing happened on my '97 Ultra when I disconnected and reconnected the battery one time, and I used a strong magnet to turn the needle and fix it. Just wrap the magnet in a paper towel or Saran wrap so you don't scratch the clear plastic of the instrument panel. I can't remember if you have to have the ignition off or on, but it does matter.

    The A/C situation is something you'll want to have someone look at (take it to an A/C shop and have them do a system check and possibly a leak test). If it's just a very slow leak that you can deal with by adding refrigerant and a system-safe leak sealer, it's no big deal (my PA has had a slow leak from the compressor for around a hundred thousand miles now).

    If the compressor is shot, though, then you are looking at an expensive repair. The PA uses GM's luxury-car compressor that doesn't cycle on and off like cheaper compressors do; instead, it smoothly varies the piston stroke so that you don't hear and feel the compressor cycling on and off. It's a neat system, but fiendishly complicated and expensive; to replace the compressor, you'd probably be looking at a thousand dollars or more. So definitely have that checked out.

    IMO, the Park Avenue Ultra is an awesome car, though. Mine now has 170,000 miles on it, gets 30 mpg at 75 mph on the Interstate and ~20mpg around town, and is DARN quick. And I love the supercharger whine when it's on boost. It's also very comfortable and quiet, has a great sound system, heated seats, and lots of other amenities. I'd buy another used one if I were in the market to do so.

    If you do buy it, change the supercharger oil (a lot of owners forget to do so) and the cabin air filters, or have someone do it for you; GM sells the special supercharger oil, and you'll need 2 bottles ($10 each). And I run synthetic engine oil in my engine, because I tend to run it hard.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,184
    The compressors range from $194 off-off brand to $328 Delphi and $280 Delco compressor. Of course if compressor broke and spun out parts the expansion valve and dryer need to be replaced and a filter put in before the system is restarted.

    At 56000 miles I'd be surprised if the compressor were bad. Most likely freon leak.

    Thanks for posting about the magnet use. I recall someone saying the magnet had to be s certain strength...
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