Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Buick Park Avenue

1111214161725

Comments

  • buicks5buicks5 Posts: 20
    Double check on the Enmunds TMV site for a value- very accurate. Only known issue was that the garage door opener will not work with "rolling code" garage door openers. Didn't go to rolling code until 2000 MY. Also, GM 3800 had major problem with bad intake manifolds leaking coolant into the oil at about 125k miles, until 2000, BUT THE ULTRA with Supercharger should not or did not have that cheap manifold. Double check with service tech at a dealer, to verify that.

    I have a 2000 and they are great cars...quit, fast, but get steady 28 mpg at 75mph. Can be sensitive to out of balance tires.
  • buicks5buicks5 Posts: 20
    get Michelins...
  • buicks5buicks5 Posts: 20
    Use Mobil 1 synthetic AND their Mobil 1 oil filter, which is 10-20 microns filtration, not the std 30 micron. Change the filter at 5k and 10k miles, replacing lost oil in the filter. Do full oil change at 15k. Use their 10w-30 oil or the new 7.5k rated oil. Other brands of 10-20 micron rate filters also ok...Bosch, etc. This is per a lube engineer at Mobil I talked to. I do this on all my Buicks...last Roadmaster wagon used about a 1/2 quart at 5k miles, with 235k miles on it. Sold to niece, still running like a top.

    I am on third 3800 engine...highest miles was 175k (totaled when rearended) and used no oil between changes. Water pump went at 90 and 170k, but timing chain still in good shape! 3800's are bullet proof IMHO.
  • lilapplelilapple Posts: 1
    i have a 95 park avenue and it smells as if it has gasoline in the oil. what would cause this?
  • aderyadery Posts: 1
    99 Park Avenue Ultra - Brakes

    I bought my Park Avenue Ultra new in 1999. I have had to put brakes on the Park Avenue 7 times since I have owned the auto.
    I have done a complete brake system, which included rotors, calipers, pads, drums, etc. in 3 of the 7.
    Every 10-12k miles I am replacing the pads and need a complete brake job in every 20-30K miles.
    I have written GM and they have denied any knowledge of braking system problems (isn't that just like a car company). They have offered me a $1,000 incentive to trade in my PA for a new buick. I have very low mileage on my vehicle and am reluctant to trade it in.
    Has anyone else had these types of problems?
  • I have a 97 PA and the fuel guage would go wacky when it was anything other than full or empty, the problem was that the arm on the sender became loose from years of going up and down and the contacts would not touch the resistor and register a proper reading to cure this all i had to do was use vise grips and tighten the arm on the shaft , not sure what year PA you have but I was able to get my fuelpump/sender out through the access in the trunk hope you can do the same!!
  • alston28alston28 Posts: 97
    My wife is making me replace my 1987 PA (144K). Now that Buick has discontinued the PA, what are PA drivers turning to? Thanks.
  • BOBPUTBOBPUT Posts: 22
    How about LOW mileage used

    How about LOW mileage used PA's??? Here there are lots of Buicks driven just 5-8k ayear by Sr citizens who give up driving !!! I'm looking for the perfect 2000-02 now for my wife-esp if it !has Stabilitrack ? Anyone have experience with that options effectiveness ??
  • I ran my '93 to 190k using Mobil I 10-30 at 3k intervals. The only repairs ever required to the car were front struts , brakes, and an alternator at 105k. After reading through all the expensive problems with Infiniti and Lexus, I am now shopping for a low-mileage '96. I truly regret selling the '93, it is still serving its new owner faithfully at 260k. Only my old '79 Chevy pickup approaches the service life of the Park.
  • laforgelaforge Posts: 1
    how did you fix this problem same thing wrong with my pa
  • For the past few months there is this cranking noise :( (from the passenger front wheel) while making right turns (different from squeel of breaks for instance). when i lightly apply the breaks...it goes away and the noise appears only when going speeds over 15-20mph.

    i have been to two different mechanics neither fixed the problem. one replaced the wheel bearing and didnt even hear the noise to begin with. my baby still makes the noise...i have inspected the cv joint, it is not cracked. the driver side front tire does show significant wear...all other tires are great. perhaps that is a clue?

    i love my car and i want it in top condition. please help me! :confuse:
  • Does anybody have any experience with excessive brake squeal and the brake calipers rattling on the pins?
    I have a '97 PA Ultra with touring suspension and 70,000 mi.
    Back at 60,000 mi. I replaced the brake pads and have had nothing but squeals and rattles since. Twice in the last 10000 miles I've taken it all apart and semared smeared the back of the pads with anti squeal lube with only temporary releif of the squealing and nothing seems to help the caliper rattle.
    I can rock the calipers by hand even after torquing the pins to spec.

    Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • ary707ary707 Posts: 1
    Hi everyone, i just bought my PA and I love it.
    Problem: Whenever i press the brakes to hard there is annoying squeaking sound coming form the front left side. It changes pitch too.
    Does anyone know what the problem might be. I would appreciate it very much if somebody could help me out.

    Thank you
  • ejanusejanus Posts: 2
    Here here! I am also 36 and at 6' 8" , there are very few options out there.
    I just retired my 95 Crown Vic (207k miles!) to upgrade to the 2000 PA Ultra and love it!

    Although the Vic did have more head room for me. Anybody know if it possible to get the seat slid back farther on the track to give me an extra inch or two of leg room?
  • ejanusejanus Posts: 2
    Howdy all - some quick questions:

    On using Premium Fuel: I drive 75 miles one-way to work. Manual says
    you don't necessarily need premium fuel if the engine doesn't knock.
    I don't notice any knock with 87 octane and I can get 30-31 mpg
    on flat portions of highway with the cruise on. My question is: Is long-term
    use of premium "better" for the 3800/Supercharged engine? I'm guessing
    it matters not given my almost exclusive highway use of my Ultra.

    I've noticed a whine when I accelerate under certain conditions. Often,
    after turning off the cruise as I get into town. Anyone know what this is?

    I reviewed a bunch of messages here and my Ultra also seems to make
    a groaning sound when I turn the wheel hard (not too bad, but I've noticed
    then I go to park the car in my office lot, it will groan a little as I make that
    90 degree turn)

    FINALLY, I have an infant and was wondering if the 2000 PA comes with the new car seat anchors, I don't remember finding this when I looked. Are they located only on one side in the back? Anyone know?

    Thanks!
  • Not currently. But I bought a new 1987 PA when I was 33, and I still have it.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,046
    >new car seat anchors

    Out 03 LeSabre has them. They are on the front edge of the rear shelf.

    >groaning

    Check for the strut cushions slipping erratically giving the moaning. My service manager had me hold my hand on the spring while he turned the front wheels smoothly from side to side. You could feel the cushion or bearing for the top of the strut give causing a twang sound. One slipping in smaller jerks could cause a moaning because the spring and suspension tended to resonate with the vibration.
  • juice1juice1 Posts: 1
    Hello, first off, let me say congratts on the new purchase. I own a 1997 Park Ave Ultra and I love it. To answer your first question about the type of fuel to use.. you must use premium. Gas mpg has nothing to do with it. You are using a Supercharged engine that requires certain things. I'm sure you probably already know this but the supercharger forces air into your engine giving it boost. When it does this it requires the fuel to burn hotter and faster. If you only put 87 octane gas in it the fuel cannot burn hot enough or fast enough. This will lead to a bent valve, which believe me you don't want. You must run premium gas in this engine especially if you are driving a long distance to work. Once you are on the highway, it puts alot more stain on the engine to pass a car which in turn leads to you activating the booster. For you next question about the whine under acceleration. This could be your torque converter that resides in your transmission. PA torque converters are known to be noisy. You will be able to tell if the noise increases as your rpm increase and then drops as soon as your transmission shifts gears. If it is really noisy it could possibly be your supercharger differential. The differentials main purpose is to allow your tires to spin at different speeds under hard acceleration. If you or the previous owner has been hard on the car it is possible that the differential has been damaged. If you ever end up having your tranny rebuilt, ask the mechanic if the differential plate was blue or black. If it is blue its from spinning tires too much which in turn burnt the metal. If it is black, it is because of a defect and the fluid wasn't getting to it properly. To answer your question about the growl sound when you make 90 degree turns, this is totally normal. You are just straining the power steering pump. When you are in a parking lot you aren't spinning the pump very fast, this means that the pump isn't creating alot of pressure, giving you that growl sound when you turn the wheel. No need to worry its normal.
  • vehicle seems to be starting out in third gear.replaced speed sensor and module.fluid is good no debris in pan.
    no codes.
  • I have a 97 PA with about 88K miles on it, I am very happy with it. Recently I found my battery dead and was able to have it jump started. The problem is while trying to start it the fuel gauge kept going crazy and somehow got stuck under the nub that it rests on. I have to keep track of how many miles I'm driving now to make sure I don't run out of gas. Also after the battery was replaced the check tires warning came on. I checked them and even put in some air, but it still comes on each time I start up. My dealer says he can fix the fuel gage for $125, anyone have any idea how I can fix it myself? :sick:
Sign In or Register to comment.