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Buick Park Avenue

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  • waynezowaynezo Posts: 8
    Briefly, here's the problem. 3800 Series II, 90K. Drove the car approx. 30 miles and parked it. Three hrs. later it wouldn't start. Heard a loud bang when I tried to start it.
    Investigation showed a broken tail shaft housing on the starter and coolant in No. 1 cylinder. Removed the throttle body to check upper plenum and found some coolant inside plenum. I know the engine was hydrolocked, but noticed no problems before parking it.
    I haven't done a compression check yet but will tonight.
    If the compression checks out and doesn't bleed down is it a safe bet that it's the lower intake gasket? How do I check that without removing the intake?
    I really need to figure this out and get it done. I work 30 miles from home one direction and the wife works 30 miles the other so we need two vehicles, and this is HER car. Wouldn't she look fine in a new pair of sneakers?
    Oh yeah, I almost forgot, Are there any contortion artists out there looking for work? Maybe you can get at the rear plugs. I think I broke my wrist trying. ;)
  • valinavalina Posts: 6
    my 91 Buick park avenue had cold air a couple of weeks ago it quit working. I carried it to a shop and they replaced 2 relays and it still doesn't blow cold air I've had it charged with r134 and still nothing can anybody heip? It kinda blows cold on the driver side but still nothing on the passenger side
  • Hi, Mickey
    Did you discover the cause of your brake noise? I too have a 2000 PA. It is an Ultra. I love the car, but the groaning!!! I have replaced wheel bearrings, brakes and had the codes cleared for the ABS, but the groan persists. I am told the noise is the ABS motor.
    I do not have any problems with vibration, but I have a nice set of Michelin HydroEdge tires on it.
    Any advice would be much appreciated! :shades:
  • buicks5buicks5 Posts: 20
    You may have one the 3800's with the bad intake manifold issue. Somewhere around 100K miles the plastic intake manifold lets go and coolant gets in all bad places. About a $1,200 repair. Please note that GM did not use the cheap plastic manifold on the Ultra supercharged engine. Also, they fixed the problem around model year 2000. Check your VIN with dealer to find out if your is in the series with bad manifold.
  • buicks5buicks5 Posts: 20
    The Driver Info Cluster (DIC) has gone dark on my 2000 Ultra with 145k miles (runs like the proverbial sewing machine with all Mobil 1 products). Is there any fix other than replacing it? Where is it reached- from underneath or by pulling the Instru Panel on top?
  • bss868sbss868s Posts: 1
    Hi, I own a 94 PA with about 158,000 mi. on it, and about 12,000 mi on most recent tranny rebuild. In the past several months I noticed that after about an hour of continuous driving, on highway, if I don't already have the cruise control engaged the rpm's automatically increase. The rpms at 70 mph are about 3000. When I take my foot off the throttle they slowly drop down to about 1200 then jump back up to about 2000, without out even touching the throttle. The only way to control this is to already have my car in cruise control. The past couple of times this has happened I had to pull over and allow my car to cool for about 15 minutes just so I could engage the cruise control at 2000 rpms before they jumped up. Appreciate any help. Thanks.
  • 97ultra97ultra Posts: 14
    Assuming you have a 4-speed transmission, it sounds like the car is downshifting from overdrive to 3rd? Easy way to tell would be to put the car in "3" instead of "D" and see if the RPM's are the same as you're seeing.

    Is your trans fluid level OK? It could possibly be a solenoid problem (say, the overdrive solenoid is going on the fritz when it gets hot), or it could be something as simple as an engine temperature sensor problem (the computer locks out overdrive until the engine is warmed up), a loose or corroded connection at the transmission electrical connector, or even a balky throttle position sensor.

    If you recently had the tranny rebuilt, and the tranny is downshifting to 3rd when it shouldn't, this may be covered under your rebuilder's trans warranty if it hasn't expired yet, if it is indeed a transmission problem.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,048
    It could be a powertrain control computer problem. It could be a temperature sensor for the transmission fluid. It needs to be checked out.
  • Window regulator is bad in drivers door. All other switches on panel (windows, mirror, window lock etc) work fine. Drivers window switch makes clicking sound coming from relay junction box inside door.

    I was told by the dealer that the window regulator part is not available separately. It only comes as a "package deal" with the entire inner-door assembly ($500). This doesn't sound right to me. It also confused the parts guy, apparently you can get just the window regulatory for some Buicks?

    Does anyone have information to help. Thank you.
  • Hello, I have a 99 ultra and replaced the filter and the fuel pump, it was neither, it was in fact the CRANK SENSOR. It almost always is...I unfortunately spent too much money trying to figure it out as there is no code(s) generated in the computer. The sensor just fails, slowly. It would have helped if there was...Good luck and peace...
  • My front passenger door handle no longer works. It feels like its in lock mode. All the other controls operate that door lock. Inside handle works,and opens door, inside lock button works, key in door activates all 4 locks, and the door lock button inside the door works. I removed the interior panel and all the control arms are working except an arm from the exterior handle to the striker. That arm appears to be activated, or allowed to function, from an electric module at the strike. Anyone have any thoughts, or a service manual that explains how the electric locking system works? Thanks
  • I am having the same problem with my car except it is the back door. i do have a manual but it is in my car and my car is in the shop, AGAIN.
  • Buy the best rotors you can find...I agree Raybestos are probably the best. Then send them off to have them cryogenically frozen. I did this some time ago and it has worked great. The -300 freezing process changes the molecular structure of the metal, making them very hard. I also opted for the ceramic pads as well.
  • 129 PSI is almost certainly not a true figure, since that is the number that would be displayed by a dead short in the oil pressure sensor. A healthy 3800 L67 with 10W30 synthetic oil shows 60-65 psi when cold and 50ish when hot.

    Try turning the key to the "run" position WITHOUT starting the engine, and see if the display still reads 129 psi. Mine had that problem (read 129psi always, even with the engine off), and I replaced the oil pressure sensor and it now reads normally.

    The engine clattering is probably a separate issue, and one that is very worrisome. I would DEFINITELY have that checked out before driving it. It could be anything from low oil level, to a stuck lifter, to low oil pressure (which you can't see since your pressure sensor apparently isn't working). Get that one checked ASAP.
  • I have a '97 PA with 96K miles and lately I've notice it feels wobbly while slowing down/braking. I have previously experienced vibrations at high speeds, but this is different. It almost feels like I am on an uneven road as I am driving at slower speeds and it is more prevalant while stopping.
    Anyone experience this or have any suggestions?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,048
    Tires first choice. How many miles? What brand/type. Frequently rotated? My first guess would be a belt that's weakened in one area or a slipped belt.

    Alignment second. How recently and by how competent an alignment facility?

    Brake rotor warped or caliper dragging. Brakes done when?
    Calipers and rotor replaced then with quality brand rotors or just pads replaced?
  • 96,000 miles
    Tires were rotated at start of year and I think they did an alignment too. I have to go back thru my records, done at a dealer. I proabably am in need of brake pads, was told they would need replacing by end of summer.

    Big question here, is it dangerous to keep driving????
    How quickly do I need to get in to have it checked?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,048
    My question should have asked how many miles on the tires too.

    If they have 30K miles on them and have been rotated every 7000 miles then they're probably evenly worn. They also could have a belt defective in one. The check for that sometimes if when they are on the balancer or just rotated on the car while off the ground a trained eye spots the unevenness in the belt. Other times it's moving the bad tires from the front -to back and having the effect move that tells that there's a tire problem. If the problem stays where you feel it in the steering, it's something mechanical on the front.

    How many miles on the brakes? If the pads were changed once before you might be due after 40-50K miles. But the rotors need replacing if you've got unevenness in the braking. And the calipers need replacing, in my opinion, then you're starting over with a new system. Don't put on cheap brand high mileage pads, or let the shop skimp on the quality of the pad. If you want good, like new, feel to your brakes do what I suggested.

    I did it at 45 K on my 98 Le Sabre and used original equipment quality pads--not long life. They have a better friction coefficient. Brakes were like new. I had had trouble with a draggin caliper and one rotor would sometimes run hot and when I'd brake I'd feel the warped rotor. Other times it wasn't noticeable. So the rotors had been damaged. Plus the original GM rotors tend to pit probably from road salts in this area along with normal heat from braking.
  • I know this sounds bad, not sure how many miles on my tires, but at least 30,000. Same with the brakes.
    Any idea on what rotors and/or calipers should run me? Don't want to put a fortune into an old car, but don't want to be unsafe either.
    I guess my fear right now is, am I taking a chance by driving it like it is?
  • Voltage is present at the switch,fuse,and relay.Voltage is also present on each line of the grid circuit in the glass.The two side view heated mirrors on the same circuit are working.
    The GROUND has failed at the REAR DEFOG/ANTENNA Module INPUT
    Connector.The Connector has PURPLE(hot) and GREEN (ground) leads.The GREEN conductor has no continuity to ground.
    I have physically traced the GREEN Wire to under the rear seat in the area of the REAR FUSE PANEL but cannot find where it should be grounded.
    A quick fix would be to just ground the green wire and be done with it,but I want to know where it should be grounded and why the ground wire is routed so far from the glass.
    I need a schematic.Anybody ?
    Thanks, and best regards
    Garret near Boston,MA
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