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Buick Park Avenue

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  • Thanks for the reply. The headlights have always turned on automatically when dark. It's just that every so often when the car is parked and turned off they "flicker" on/off.

    We did notice, but only for a while, that when driving during daylight that there was a loud "clicking" sound. I did find that by playing with the light switch it went away. I did not put the "clicking" and the light problem together until recently.

    Last week I did replace the light switch. So far it's working great, but, it has always been an intermittent problem.

    If the problem returns I've try the light control module.

    Thanks again for responding.
  • I have a 2000 PA and had the fuel gauge spin around and stick at the stop. After several calls and sticker shock from estimates to drop the tank and replace the pump/sending unit to replacing the instrument cluster. I came to the forum. I was reluctant to drilling a hole in the dash to try and manually adjust the needle. I read an entry about the use of a magnet. It worked like a charm and saved me well over $700. I took several magnets from the refrigerator and held them near the cover over the gauge...and voila...no more problem. I also added a dose of Lucas fuel treatment to the tank just as an extra precaution. Thanks for the tip!!!
  • I noticed my car was sounding as if it was bogging down when i gave it gas and would hardly go. I did a transmission service on it, but it still is doing the same thing. After I changed the fluid and filter it did seem better at first. I went about 75000 miles without have the transmission serviced. Could it be the pc solenoid valve is getting clogged or something else or is the transmission possibly not good. The car has 145000 miles on it. I also noticed that there was a sound coming from the motor. As I looked for the sound I noticed it was coming from inside the engine at the air intake. I think I also here tapping in the engine but I know the A/C compressor is no good and it also makes a tapping sound also so it is hard to tell where the tapping sound is coming from in the engine. I think it might be the lifters.
  • This car is painted in Ruby Red and overall is in very good condition, save a couple of scruffy spots. How should one correct and protect these faded areas? I assume the clear coat is gone and it appears the red pigment is going as well. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    For another experience, happened on my 98 after I had replaced the starter. Tried several magnets, even went to Northern Tool and tried their 300 lb magnet, but it wouldn't go around. I didn't want to drill in the gauge cover so I removed the cover and flipped it back over by hand. Mine was not a sealed unit as some have replied. Took about 20 minutes and a small 1/4" drive socket (maybe 6 or 7 mm).

    0) disconnect battery
    1) remove left Instrument Panel endcap - it pops off with a little pull
    2) remove left IP accessory trim plate - woodgrain piece to the left of steering column, pulls off with gentle prying
    3) remove right IP accessory trim plate - woodgrain piece to the right of steering column, pulls off with gentle prying (may need to disconnect wiring connectors, or just leave hanging temporarily)
    4) Block wheels
    5) Put transmission lever in 1st gear

    6) Remove IP cluster trim plate fastener from the left IP endcap area (small socket needed)
    7) Gently pry the IP cluster trim plate away from dash cluster - this is the piece that frames your dash gauge cluster

    8) Remove 4 screws that hold dash cluster in place and pull clear plastic cover away from gauges
    9) Flip fuel gauge needle around counter clockwise
    10) reinstall in reverse order.

    I think you need to have the key turned back off before you reconnect the battery or the problem may re-occur.

    Sorry if I added too much detail for this forum, I don't know what the norm is and just wanted to relate my experience. :D
  • PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE
    Do yourself a favor. Drill a 1/4" hole through the cover of panel, just below fuel guage. Insert straightened paper clip and manually rotate needle. Go to hardware store and in the isle where all the pull out trays of screws and fun stuff, you will find 1/4" black plastic plug that will snap into hole you drilled. It becomes invisible. You will have this problem again, guaranteed
  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    Wow, do you also break off a piece of your car window when you lock the keys in it and repair / hide damage later? :D

    You're saying it's better to drive maybe 15-20 mins each way to the hardware store, obtain rubber plug and maybe a drill bit, spend a little more on gas and end up with a 'invisible' plugged hole in your dash?

    Take a close look at this cluster pic of a BPA on eBay, look at the XL view pic #23.

    cluster pic

    Looks like this drill repair job cracked, is about 3" long and not as invisible as you describe. I'm sure with the right bit and time spent it may be 'less' visible, tho not 'invisible'. Maybe this person was unlucky or unskilled at drilling in cramped quarters.

    Why not do it the right way (apparently several ways are non-destructive), save time, money, and leave the gauge cover intact ( 'invisible')? :confuse: If you have a small socket set, you are good to go in 20 minutes.

    Mine has not re-occured, fwiw
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,702
    Ouch. Sounds terse.

    Drilling a quick hole is a common method. I don't know what that has to do with breaking off part of your window; it would actually shatter in most cases unless it's safety glass like a Lucerne. Smallbites was offering a helpful suggestion--the same one I would have offered.

    I'm glad you haven't had a recurrence, yet.

    This message has been approved.

  • bowfanbowfan Posts: 55
    I apologize, by using the smiley I intended to indicate humor. :D ;)

    On the other hand.. the PLEASE.. reply to my post seemed a little condescending to my eyes. :confuse:

    I realize he was just repeating the advice he asked for and received last year, on this very forum. If I could I would go back and edit out the terseness for the benefit of future readers, and if you have the privilege to edit, please do so. I appreciate the forum.

    I simply tried to show what seems to have happened to another person who tried the drill option, so that your members can look at all the options/risks.

    My opinion obviously is why damage an expensive car when you can fix it so simply?

    I will work on the delivery. :)

    Sorry.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,702
    I didn't take the smiley as meaning it was in humor. I'm sorry.

    I visualize taking off the dash front as a real problem. I've done that in the past on Buicks. It is potentially a chance to damage something else or break off a prong needed to hold the thing back on. It's also a chance to have something rattle that didn't used to rattle.

    So I view removing the dash as a real negative, for me with my hands. I'm glad you successfully did it.

    I think the caveat could go both ways; I'm great with sharp drill bits and handling that. so people need to use good equipment for the drilling and need to have dentist's hands to stop the bit as soon as it's through the plastic.

    This message has been approved.

  • The magnet will work and reset the gauges. My 2001 PA had a low battery and after jump starting, the temperature and fuel gauge pegged below the stop pin. When you turn the key on the gauges try to function but cant get past the pin.

    With the key in the "OFF" position use a magnet and rotate the gauge needle counter clockwise 360 degrees until it pegs in the cold or empty position. They should stay in that position now. Turn the key to "ON" and the gauges should work correctly. You do not have to disconnect the battery.

    It may take several tries with the magnet to get the needle to the position that you want.

    The magnets strength should pick up a half dollar size flat washer from 1 inch. A little bit stronger would be ok.
  • xman3xman3 Posts: 3
    thanks to you and everyone who posted about fuel gauge problems with park avenues. my 97 has been inop for 2 years and fixed it with a magnet.manny thanks.charles
  • epbepb Posts: 2
    My wife's car has a small problem, the seat control on the passenger side keeps popping out of the seat. The dealership has tried at least four times to fix it but still comes out. The last try consisted of putting a long screw through the cover. It held the longest but eventually failed too. They then told my wife they would have to order a new cover and fasteners, but they haven't called to say they have them, it's been two weeks. has anyone else had this problem, and is there some magic fix for the cover.
  • 03 Park Avenue. 42K. Check engine lite comes on for unknown reason. No codes. Changed gas cap, careful when filing tank. Reset lite and that may be OK for a month. No two times the same. Any suggestions?
  • rbburgrbburg Posts: 4
    The car has started to run extremely rough. Some days it will run fine for a little bit then starts running rough. I used a jumper wire from the A to the B terminal and the diagnostic mode flashed the service engine soon light the three times. Then it continued to flash the code 1-2 over and over. Is this normal? Does anyone know what else I should try? Anything will help.

    Thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,702
    How many miles on it? Fuel pump been replaced? Fuel filter replaced?

    Have the spark plugs been replaced with Delco/AC plugs for that car in the last 30 K miles? Have the spark plug wires been replaced with original equipment wires? in last 50K miles?

    If it runs rough the first thing to check is there. You might look for a plug wire that has pulled partly off the plug causing a gap.

    Second would be the 3 coils to see that the connections there aren't corroded. You might remove the coils and inspect them for tracking, cracks, etc.

    There are other things that can cause your problem, but look for the cheapest and most common first.

    If it runs better while cold meaning running a little rich, that too could be hint what's happening.

    Many people have failures of the cam sensor magnet and / or the crankshaft sensor. IF it is crankshaft sensor the usual symptom is that it stalls, won't restart for a while, and then starts and runs. The cam sensor has a magnet that's on the cam that comes loose in its plastic housing.

    Don't spend money throwing parts at the car. It's better to spend money for competent mechanic to diagnose the problem and fix that one thing.

    This message has been approved.

  • rbburgrbburg Posts: 4
    There are a 110,000 miles on the car. I know the plugs and wires have not been changed. I thought I would start there first. Although this problem was only when the roads were wet or snowy and now it's fairly constant.

    Where are the three coils located?

    Thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,702
    Do the plugs and wires with AC Delco plugs and proper OEM wires. The coils are right front of the motor--the plug wires all go to them. Just inspect the tops without unbolting them for now--if the plugs and wires have not been changed it's way past due.

    This message has been approved.

  • rbburgrbburg Posts: 4
    I changed the plugs and wires with no luck in fixing the problem. While test driving it after the plug/wire change it started in with it's cutting out. When it goes into it "fit" I noticed a clicking sound coming from under the passengers side dashboard lower where your feet would be. Then the speedometer needle stops working and the car developes a stuter and miss.
    Any idea want to look at next?

    Thanks.
  • Hello,
    Just recently I starting having an issue with the Service Stability System light coming on. I have associated this light with a braking issue that also just started. Intermittently when braking and starting a turn to the right there is a nasty grinding noise, which sounds like it's coming from the brakes. It will stop once I start to accelerate and pull out of the turn. I took the vehicle into the Buick dealer for service. They replaced the brakes, calibers were reworked, etc. I was told it was fixed but within a day it did it again. I took the vehicle back to the shop and this time they replaced a sensor they said was bad. Now according to what I have read on various places on the web, if a sensor is bad then not only will the Service Stability System light go on, but the ABS light will go on as well as the Traction Off light. Neither of these came on so now I am wondering if the sensor was really bad?

    The vehicle is still having the same problems and yesterday it was bad enough that when I released the brake and started to press on the gas (turning to the right) the grinding noise did NOT go away and it actually kept slowing the vehicle down. I had to jerk the wheel to the left before whatever was causing this problem would let loose and I could drive away.

    The dealership repair shop has NO clue what is going on. Heck, they didn't even know what the Service Stability System light was for?

    Can anyone shed some light on my problem?

    Buick Park Avenue
    Year: 2000

    Thank you,
    Steve
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