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Buick Park Avenue

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Comments

  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    There was a paint for rust that turns it black. It contains sulfur IIRC and chemically combines with rust and free iron to give a black coating which can then be painted.

    You are at the point where you should take off the door panel and take off the water barrier that's caulked to to the door and directs water down to drain holes to go back outside the rubber seal through holes in the bottom of the door. I would expect there's been blocked holes on the bottom of the door that drain the water out.

    I'd paint the inside of the bottom of the door with the above mentioned chemical paint and then make sure the drain holes are open and the plastic and caulk feeds the water that gets to the inside of the door (down the window) goes to the holes. The caulk should be new, black sticky stuff on the lower part.

    I'd check into the push pin type replacements for the metal screws--Lowes has them in their bolt and screw drawers.

    Check this link for a good door picture set.
  • dafraqdafraq Posts: 6
    Thank you for the info. The picture set is great. If you look on the top picture on page 3, my problem is with the black rubber stripping on the bottom of the doors that runs the length of the car on both sides on the outside. Do you happen to know what that piece is called? Do you think I can get away with just replacing that piece and use the push pin screws after fixing the rust or should I venture into the door panels?

    Thanks again,

    David
  • My Front Left/ Right Door handles broke. I've searched everywhere online as to where I can get replacement parts. But non to avail. Anyone have any recomendations? Iv'e seen Buick Century's door handle and they look similar. By any chance would they fit? :sick:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    Inside? Outside handles?

    Have you checked Ebay?

    Rockauto.com
    gmpartsdirect.com
  • I have checked ebay,Theres none. The handles are for the outside. Which I think is the most common problem I've read around this forum.
  • Haven't visited in awhile. To answer your question about the door handles, NO the Century handle won't work. Neither will the Impala or the Bonneville. The Park Ave mechanism is a different configuration on the back of the handle. They won't interchange. I pulled them all one afternoon in a yard and only the Park Ave. will work.
    I've replaced both drivers side handles on mine. I got the first at Rockauto. They no longer list them. I got my rear handle from a salvage yard. You can order them from a GM dealer, but they're wicked expensive.
    A tip. Mine broke because the doors were frozen shut. If you pull up too hard and try to force the door open you'll break the arm off on the back side that activates the opener rod. Get a stiff wide blade puttyknife and put it in the groove between the body and door and pry with that when the doors are frozen shut.
    I know it's a pain at 6 a.m. and it's zero outside, but it's a lot less time consuming than replacing handles everytime it's cold out.
  • Go here for replacement parts for the Park Ave.

    http://www.buy-oem-parts.com It's in NJ. Replacement handles are around $50. Have a good one.
  • I just purchas a 1998 Park Ave (Std not Ultra) and notice that there's a "garage button" as well as two other buttons( not sure what these are) in the front center headliner. How do I go about programming it to open my garage door?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    Go here

    http://www.homelink.com/programming/programming.taf

    for programming how to. You need to know the brand of your garage door opener and the other automated things you wish to open. The other buttons can be for interior units that turn on house lights from your car so you don't have to enter a darkened home or to open your automatic gate at the drive up to your estate (I don't have one of those). I just programmed all three for my garage door so I don't have to be careful which one I hit in my LeSabre.

    The info should be in your owners manual in the glovebox if it's in there.
  • mikuhmikuh Posts: 3
    I am trying to help a friend of mine correct a problem caused by a heavy handed machanic that while trying to fix one problem, caused another. When he dropped the steering column, he forgot to unhook the cable clip that connects the cable to the shift indicator gage. He unknowingly broke the plastic arm on the back of the gage and threw out the broken part as he cleaned up the floor mat.

    Where can I get another gage or perhaps a photo of the back of the gage so I can fabricate another arm and epoxy it to the remaining plastic hub on the back of the gage? Any help or suggestions will be greatly appriciated.

    David
  • i have a 94 buick pa and my radio constantly changes stations and my ac and heater go from 60 to 90 then back and forth all the time can anyone tell me what i cn do to fix this :confuse:
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,045
    My very first check would be the ground buss bar that's under the door frame plastic at the bottom of the A pillar. It's a bundle of wires with a bar that corrodes if lots of moisture stays present. Since you have two problems I'd begin with that.

    Well maybe I'd check the positive cable on the battery for corrosion between the two separate positive cables that are both clamped to one post. Separate them and check for corrosion. Check the ground wire while you're there.
  • Could be a problem with the wiring harness that connects the steering wheel buttons to the components in the dash. One of the big things both the stereo tuner and the heater temperature controls have in common is that both are connected to the steering wheel buttons, so check that wiring carefully for kinks, worn insulation, etc. and for proper button function (no shorts), etc.

    Be careful around the airbag when you're messing around with wiring under there, though.
  • 64ss64ss Posts: 1
    can someone tell me how to replace my leaking side cover gasket on my 1995 buick park ave?
  • xman3xman3 Posts: 3
    For what its worth, 97 park ave door handle was repaired by supergluing broken tab back to body and then drilling and taping with 4-40 screw--has lasted about 6 months
  • Good afternoon. I have a 1999 Buick PA with about 135,000 miles on it. For some time now my "Service Engine Soon" light has been on. My car, without much notice, will shut off whenever I stop at red lights, stop signs or slow down to turn corners. I took it to AZ and they put a little monitor beneath my dash board. It read "MAS" (Massive Airflow Sensor I believe). I bought the sensor, had it installed and the "Service ..." light went off - but only for about 1 week. Last Sunday, the second week since the light has been off, while driving to a store about 1.5 miles away all was fine. When I left the store, however, a block away my car seemed like it was gasping for air (more like choaking) and cut off. After four attempts to restart it (when I turned the key in the ignition, I would hear it come on but it would not stay on), I finally got it going. It has not gone off since that time, but now I need inspection and I know it won't pass because of that darn light. Also, I've had the car for about four years and it has had a tune-up maybe once during that time. Needless to say, I want it fixed for safety reasons, too! Thanks!
  • maxamus1maxamus1 Posts: 1
    Will the outer door handle from 98 buick LaSaber work.
  • raina2raina2 Posts: 2
    hey, was wondering if anyone knows if I can use a 93' Regal engine in my 91' Park Avenue. Some things are different but if I can I make it work will the electrical and such be compatable with my car? What other engines can I use?
  • just pur. a '02 PA has exact same problem on pass. fr. door. did you resolve your problem, if so how. thanks. 10/7/09.
  • dano32dano32 Posts: 5
    I have a 1991 park ave. a few weeks ago it wouldn't start due to no spark. i ended up replacing the module and it woked fine for a couple of weeks before dying while moving when my daughter was driving it. i again i didn't have spark and didn't think it was the module again, and the coil pack wasn't arcing out like they do , so i replaced the cam and crank sensors....nothing. I got a used module off a car with a bad tranny so i knew it worked. the car started and ran for about ten seconds before dying and not starting again. is my module getting fried? is it possible my coil pack is shorting internally and damaging my module? i hate to go buy a coil pack and 100$ module to test my theory. is there anyway to test the module and coil pack???

    thanks,

    guy who should've spent more on his daughters school car!!
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