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Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm



  • Hi: I have always owned geo prizms. There is nothing like them. But right now we bought one for $400.00 dollars and put maybe another $500.00 into it and still have one problem. it was hit in the front by the front tire on the right side. We have put all new tires (goodyear tire paws) all new brakes all new struts all new wheel bearins and all new axles and still there is a minor shake in the right front tire is where i believe it is.
    Any suggestions? I asked my husband if after it was lined up if the tire could need to be re balanced and he says no. so i thought i would come here to see if i could get any other suggestions because he has had enough of it but i want it fixed. it shakes for a reason. and the car is in good shape for what we paid for it.
    Thanks for your help :( :confuse:
  • I have a 2000 Prizm as well and have the same problem. It hesitates and sputters when first started every day and again after it sit for a couple of hours. Have you found any thing that has fixed this problem. I have changed the Fuel pump and screen, cleaned the MAP sensor, changed plugs, had the intake and cylinders flushed to remove carbon and nothing has changed it. I have read the the caytalitic converter can also cause this problem as well as the emissions canister. I am getting a little tired of changing parts one at a time. Please if you have found something that works could you pass it along.
  • My 1993 Geo Prizm almost ran out of gas the other day and ever since it hasnt run right. It almost seems like it is only running on 3 cylinders and then my check engine light came on. Inside my car now has a strong smell of gas.I checked the light and it gave me a code 25. What could this be? Im at a loss here. :mad: Please help!
  • Actually, I ran into the same problem about the different gaps. I called NGK tech support and they told me I should use the gap stated in the manual as they get their information from third parties and sometimes they are wrong.

    The 1997 Geo Prizm manual on page 6-65 under "Replacement Parts" states that the gap should be 0.031 inch (0.8mm)

    I will use 0.031 spark plug gap instead of what the auto parts says.

    I have the manual on PDF format if anyone is interested.
  • did you ever get the starting proble fixed. If so whiat did you do I have the Same problem with my 1991 Geo Prizm
  • On my 2002 Prizm el stripo, (My Wife bought it I didn't)seemed to operate and drive OK,but several months ago it began a rattly noise in drive and at idle. It kept getting worse, so 10 days ago I took it to the local Chevrolet dealer. Several hours later they called and said that the air conditioning compressor was bad and needed replaced. I wasn't having any trouble with cooling but in order to get rid of the noise I authorized the repair. My wife drove the car home and didn't say anything about any noise. I drove the car several days later and found that the same noise still persisted. The dealer had replaced the compressor with a rebuilt compressor. The total bill was $753.00 and change. I took it back to the dealer and complained and the service writer turned me over to the mechanic who serviced the car. He said that the original compressor was bad internally but that all the compressor's sound like this. The car was bought used and didn't sound like that at that time. Anybody out there had the same problem? Advise :mad: :mad: :cry: :sick:
  • I had the same problem, but it really was the compressor--it wasn't cooling, the car would leak refrigerant as quickly as I could put it in, and changing the filter made no difference. I also had that same horrible rattle.

    I had a brand new compressor put in (on the recommendation of the service manager who said the quality of rebuilt ones these days was very erratic) and the problem was solved. It did, however, set me back $892. But on those sweltering humid Southern summer days, it seems money well spent (or at least that's how I rationalize the expense).
  • guestguest Posts: 774
    I have a 2000 Chevy Prizm with about 110,000 miles on it. The check engine light came on a few months ago and our mechanic said it was the Catalytic Converter.
    I waited several months, and then had it replaced, but the check engine light came on again, and the mechanic said that an O2 sensor needed replacing, so he did that as well.
    Well, 45 miles later, the check engine light came on again. I took the car in, and the mechanic said he was getting a "RUnning Lean" code.....but that he checked everything on the car, and nothing seemed to be wrong. So he reset the switch, turning the light off, and told me to drive it again to see if the light would come on again.
    Exactly 45 miles later (again) the light came on.
    Now I'm $900.00 in the hole, and my SMOG check is due immediately, for registration (lucky me). And I will have to take it back for him to do a deeper search.....but I would really appreciate any advice on this scenario...and what the potential problem might be.

    Thank you
  • I'd love a copy of that manual. Could you send it to:

  • Anyone know how to turn off the check engine light on a 1997 geo prism.
    Thanks, Lee
  • geo92geo92 Posts: 3
    I need help, my 92 geo prizm is my transportation from home to college,
    My brake light is on and also my battery is on also.. my hand brake is not up so I know its not that problem,
    I went to a mechanic a few days before it appeared and he said my brake pads were fine. I thinking it might be my alternator.
    My Car starts up like regular, but there is an a kinda exhaust smell,

    Can anyone help? please? Much apprecaited.
  • you have to go to the ,mechanic and they have to reset the computer to get the light also need to find out what caused the light to come on.
  • Sounds like the alternator..also when you first crank up in the morning..does the engine sound noisy?The exhaust manifold is probably cracked..especially if your car has over 100, 000 miles on it..these typically crack after a lot of miles.Go get the alternator tested and also if you want to fix the manifold..i think it is a $300.00 job unless you can get a used one.
  • Check the brake fluid level. The battery light could be the alternator, the battery or even the drive belt slipping.
  • geo92geo92 Posts: 3
    the only way to test the alternator is at the mechanic? and if its probably the alternator I would have to replace it, can't repair? You are right about the manifold it is broke/crack does that require repair or replacement? or can I drive without it?

    thank you for your help guys
  • geo92geo92 Posts: 3
    now my cars confusing me, when I used my car run today for about 15mins. The two Check Battery and Brake light dissappeared.
    :confuse: does anyone know whats going on? maybe it was too cold since I am in albany.

    thank you all for your advice
  • I bought a 98 prizm and I just cant find how to adjust the side mirrors. They have no knobs, instead there's just a little whole, it doesnt seem forced or anything it looks like they have always been like no-knobs mirrors. Then someone told me they were probably electric, we looked for the remote but couldnt find it. I could force them manually, but they are actually really hard to adjust in that way. So, anyone knows where's the remote or how can i adjust them????

    Thanks a lot
  • About a month ago took my fiance's prism to firestone to get oil changed...they said strut mounts were completely broken and they wouldn't be able to do it without replacing them...we didn't have money to do it then so we didn't get it done..What I am wondering is if the strut mounts can be broken but not the struts? Because it says nothing about the struts on this paperwork and am trying to get a price quote on what its going to take to fix.
  • My son has a 93 Geo Prizm with 188,150 miles on it. The car will not go back to low gear unless you physically pull it back to low. After accelerating in low and you shift it to second it sounds like it jumps over second and goes into third. No power after it shifts and while pulling in third it jumps or hesitates like it's out of time and then once it gets above 40 mph it will go on like there's nothing wrong. Above 40 it does fine. Also it started to do this bumping and the engine check light will flash once when it does it,like it was missing on one cylinder, mostly at highway speeds, but does it at lower speeds too. Yesterday it did this right after coming off the highway and the light stayed on and the car lost about half it's pulling power. I drove it on to where I was going and shut it off. When I came back out to the car and started it, the light was out again and it was running normal again. Could this be caused by a bad oxygen sensor? I had a Buick that acted this way one time and that was what was wrong with it. :confuse: image
  • I had this *exact* same sounding problem on my 2000 Prizm -- it also cost me some serious cash before figuring out what the problem was. Check the Mass Airflow Sensor -- mine was running a little lazy and chaotic. I ultimately had to take to the Toyota dealer before they figured out what was wrong. Apparently it was a fairly common problem on the Prizm/Corolla models of that time, but the Chevy guys didn't know jack about it and were just recommending replacing parts.

    I have the Chevy manual for the 2000 prizm and ran through the various diagnostic tests myself, but was never able to come to a conclusion. While at the Toyota shop, I looked at the corresponding Toyota manual for the 2000 Corolla and it was much more insightful. It gave a specific test for determining if the MAF was functioning at appropriate values.
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