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Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm

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Comments

  • geobluegeoblue Posts: 71
    mirde98,

    Did the check engine light go off after the maintenance?
    Have you checked your gas cap and its gasket?

    I am thinking of having my car's A/C recharged.How much did they charge for A/C service? What is the right price for it?

    Thanks.
  • mirde98mirde98 Posts: 95
    edited May 2010
    Is the same code (P0446) i had since i bought the car last month. Yes i replaced the gas cap with a new one. Plus all those things i mentioned were serviced. So before tune up and still after tune up (code was erased with machine then keeps coming back) keeps saying P0446 EVAP. My AC was slowly leaking freon. They found a leaking valve (those where u hook the hose to charge the freon) and new freon. $125 i paid in a local shop.
  • meatypeteymeatypetey Posts: 9
    I would check for a bad head gasket. When the pressure builds in the cooling passages, it could be forcing moisture into your compressions chamber. With that may miles, it is definitle possible. Do compression check and that could tell you. Also, if you see white smoke out the exhaust that indicates water/antifrieeze. Sometimes the head gasket can leak a little bit at at time and make it hard to diagnose.
    Keep a close eye on your oil for any milky appearance that would indicate moisture is getting into your oil.

    If it turns out you do have a head gasket leak, take a good luck at your cyliner head for any type of warpage, Sometimes they can warp and the gasket can lose its seal. Sometiems the gasket just gets old.

    good luck!!
  • zipper5zipper5 Posts: 2
    I have a 1994 Geo Prizm which has a loud "clunking" sound in the rear, especially when I go over bumps/potholes? Anyone have any ideas of what it might be? Thanks!
  • geobluegeoblue Posts: 71
    Might be the strut/s.Do the strut test.Push the car down, see if it rebounces once, and not a few times.
  • I just got my 1998 Prizm LSI repainted. Looks great! But the belt molding on both rear doors has the rubber peeling off. That is the molding on the outside at the bottom of the windows. I found them for a Prizm but the price is too high in my opinion. Now I found them for a 1998 Corolla at half the price!

    Do 1998 Prizm and1998 Corollas have identical rear doors? So I can use the Corolla belt moldings on my Prizm?
    Thanks for the help!
  • geobluegeoblue Posts: 71
    As far as I know the trim is not the same.Doors are different in sizes too.It would not fit.But you should look into buying the parts from a salvage yard/ebay,craigslist.
  • I would bet dimes to donuts you have a bad strut. The back struts have an extra wrinkle when changing them in that the back brake line may need disconnected and on older cars that can sometimes be tough. And if I remember correctly the back seat has to be removed to access the top bolts - but that is pretty easy -four bolts. There isn't really anything else back there to clunk. (Unless you threw your mother-in-law in the trunk :) )

    Hope this helps
  • I would check the bearings on the rear hub assembly. they are super easy to replace if that is it.
  • chowdhurychowdhury Posts: 1
    Dear All,

    I have a 1993 Geo prism. The car has about 142K miles in it. The car was running fine but one day I saw the speedometer was not working any more. I thought it was a bad battery and changed it. All the other meters are working on the dashboard. Now sometimes when I brake instead of stopping the car starts accelerating and the speedometer starts working. After sometime the brakes work again. I find this situation can be life threatening. So, can anyone point me to the problem. I am worried to drive my car to the mechanic. If anyone can point out what could go wrong, I will be greatful.

    Best,
    Omar
  • jill22jill22 Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 chevy prizm and first the right half of the instrument panel backlight went out then a week later, the left side went out, also. The gauges themselves work fine. I replaced the gauges fuse inside the car and now the
    left side is lit up, but the right side is still out. The car manual doesn't offer
    any help, is there a different fuse for the right side? Or is it a burnt out bulb
    under the instrument cluster? Is it something I could do myself? Thanks in advance.
  • geobluegeoblue Posts: 71
    Omar, I am not sure but it might be related to a faulty transmission speed sensor.I will look it up from service manual and write again.
  • geobluegeoblue Posts: 71
    Jill22, I would check the electric connectors behind the instrument panel.It is easy to open but be careful in order not to break any plastic parts.
  • I have been having consistent issues with my prizm for about 6 months now, in and out of the shop 6 times now and the problem is only worse HELP!

    First when I would try to take off my car would hesitate for about 3 seconds and then lurch forward and drive fine...untill the next stop. It did this randomly and not at every stop. The machanic told me to replace the O2 sensor and the throttle positioning sensor, and I did which helped for about a month.

    I took my car from CT to CO and the car drove perfect! On the way home it started doing the hesitation again at toll booths but the machanic thought it might just need to adjust to the altitude and the changing oxygen levels.

    By some chance, the car broke down the DAY I got home, and did the hesitation so bad that it took me nearly a half an hour to drive what normally takes me ten minutes.

    I brought the car to the machanic AGAIN and they cleaned out the sensors they had replaced and checked the mass airflow sensor. They said that the computer was giving them a lean air reading and that if the cleaning did not work I would need to replace the MAF.

    Within a day the Check engine light was back on and my car was doing a different problem. I replaced the MAF and it fixed any and all hesitation...but now a NEW problem has happened.

    When accelerating my car feels like it is bucking slightly. I press on the gass at a consistant amount yet my car feels like it is gaining and losing speed in quick little bursts untill it is up to about 45mph and then it is fine. Sometimes when I slow down and then try to pick back up speed the car has no power at all untill i put the petal to the floor and then it shifts and picks back up to speed fine.

    the CEL is on constantly and I have put new spark plugs in within the last year mind you, somebody told me to check the vaccume hoses or replace the fuel filter??

    HELPPPP

    thank you!!
  • geobluegeoblue Posts: 71
    I would suggest you use only factory recommended replacement parts, be it a spark plug or O2 sensor, the cheapest Denso or NGK works way better than Bosch for example.

    Throttle cable might need adjustment, it is visible, you can check the cable yourself.
    For engine surge, I would recommend use of Chevron Complete Fuel Treatment or a good alternative.It might be related to fuel pressure regulation, pumping or injectors.
    Make sure the spark plugs are the correct type (not multi electrode ones) and at the factory specified correct gap. Change the air filter.Check the cap and rotor (ignition), also make sure your battery terminals are free from oxidation (white fluffy stuff).

    Lastly, check your transmission fluid level and condition if it is auto.

    I hope you find the problem and solve it without spending much.

    P.S. I would also get the Chilton AND Haynes manuals for the car, they come in handy.

    Have you replaced the timing belt? It might be worn or skipping teeth.
  • Have you replaced the Mass Air Flow sensor? It is behind the air cleaner in the air duct between the air cleaner and the intake manifold. There is a way to check them but it requires very senstive diagnostic equipment and careful monitoring of ambient temperatures. I had a very similari problem and this took care of it right away. easy to change. Hope this helps
  • I just had the mass airflow sensor changed put new spark plugs in yesterday tried fuel cleaner treatment which has not completely ran through yet but I have used more than a half a tank of the gas with the treatment and my air filter is brand new from the last time I got an oil change less than a thousand miles ago and the surging is only getting worse...

    my car is not starting hard or shaking so I think that my timing belt is fine. I checked my transmission fluid and it is still red and the level is fine so I did not replace it.

    My car surges now every time I try to accelerate and it's driving me nuts because I have spent over 800 dollars now trying to fix every little thing. I have one of the manuals and it has helped me but it is hard because I can only look up parts not problems so I can only go to the guide when I have a place to start.

    Someone told me the rotor cap can get burned and leave carbon on the ions...but I have a 2000 prizm so I have 4 individual coils and no rotor cap according to the manual so this cant be the case.

    Do you think it could be a vacuum line or fuel filter issue? Im hesitant to do the fuel filter because it is expensive but I think it might be all I have left.
  • geobluegeoblue Posts: 71
    What is the brand/product code of these spark plugs, and what were the ones taken out?What is the gap on the older ones and what is the gap on the newer ones?
    Mine is a 94, it has a throttle body to be cleaned, yours must have some kind of throttle system too.On older ones it is easy to clean, lots of dark grime there.
    They say not to replace parts without knowing they are faulty, but I would have done the same.
    This is from Haynes Corolla manual:
    Engine surges while holding accelerator steady:
    1.Intake air leak
    2.Fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator faulty (ch.4)
    3.Problem with fuel injection system(chapter 4)
    4.Problem with emissions control system(chapter 6)

    Engine stumbles on acceleration:
    1Spark plugs fouled
    2.Problem with fuel injection or engine control system
    3.Fuel filter clogged
    4.Incorrect ignition timing
    5.Intake manifold air leak
    6.Problem with emissions control system.

    Fuel filter, as far as I know, is not that expensive (20 dollars or so at rockauto.com)
    But before changing that I would read the code through a scanner (it is easier and cheaper to get one and do) and see what it says.

    Do you still have the old spark plugs? Picture of those might help in seeing whether or not they are fouled.

    http://www.expertcarcare.com/eccguide/graphics/Spark_plug_Outlook_Analysis.jpg
  • on the back of the manual that I have there were pictures of different wear on spark plugs and it was hard to tell which mine was most like. It was white in color and almost looked like what they showed to be "ash and carbon build up". I had bosche spark plugs and replaced them with NGK and made sure that the heat range was correct and gapped them at about 42 I am not sure what the old plugs were gapped at.

    When I brought my car to the shop last time they cleaned my throttle body I just discovered when I looked at my receipt. They said that even after they cleaned it my car was giving them a "lean fuel" reading no matter what they cleaned or adjusted.

    thanks so much for your help it is so much nicer to have a second thought on what to try next!!

    The fuel filter for my car was about $130 for the part plus labor because my fuel filter is a part of the fuel pump I learned after reading up on them which is why I was trying to hold off on doing that but its starting to look like everything is pointing towards that as the faulty part.
  • 5354fan5354fan Posts: 1
    have you had any luck fixing the problem? My prizm is bucking all of a sudden and just as quickly stops and runs fine. When the problem occurs you can smell the converter has been hot. My check engine light does not ever come on. Any help is appreciated.
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