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Chevrolet (Geo) Prizm

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  • geobluegeoblue Posts: 71
    Have you checked the level and condition of transmission fluid before replacing speed sensor? (I am assuming it has auto transmission.)

    Disconnect the battery for 10 minutes, that is good enough for reprogramming as far as I know.

    I hope you get years of reliable service out of your Prizm.
  • I know this is an old thread but I found out where a lot of the oil was going on my 98 Prizm. The PCV valve grommet gets old, dried out and hard. This prevents it from sealing and oil leaks out and runs down the back of the engine and onto the exhaust pipe where it burns off. No drips, no smoke out the exhaust. Just the smell of burning oil when you turn off the engine. A new grommet is less than $3.50....
  • i have the exact same problem with my 94 geo prizm, did you ever find out what was wrong?
  • Hello...if you wouldn't mind, could you please email to me the PDF manual for the 1997 Geo Prism. I need to get some spark plugs for my car as it is riding a bit rough.

    Thanks
  • keithh1keithh1 Posts: 12
    edited December 2011
    As a continuation to the discussion of where the oil goes on 1998 Prizm: First it was leaking from the PCV grommet on the valve cover. Then valve cover gasket was also dried out and cracked and thus leaking. We'll see if that's finally fixed all the oil leaks.
    Keith
  • keithh1keithh1 Posts: 12
    The driver's side front tire will wobble back and forth when the car is jacked up off the ground. To me, this means a bad wheel bearing. The parts store wants to sell me the entire front spindle and bearing kit. The bearing is not pressed on yet though. I haven't got the car up on jackstands yet to see how hard this will be. Anybody done this job?
    Keith
  • keithh1keithh1 Posts: 12
    Replying to myself... I did fix all the oil leaks in my 1998 Prizm and it still uses oil. Where does it go? It goes past the rings and into the combustion chamber. I removed the oil cap while the engine was running and oil smoke came out. The dreaded blow-by. I guess the EGR system recycles enough oil smoke through the system that it doesn't put a lot out the tailpipe--not even enough to notice, but it's definitely burning oil. I have a friend with a Prizm AND a Corolla and they BOTH do the same thing. Another friend has a Corolla and it does it as well. All four cars are under 200,000 miles. Oh well.
    Keith
  • myewebmyeweb Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Geo prizm with the 4AFE 1.6 Liter engine. how feasable is it to swap it out for a 4A-GZE, or even better, a 20 Valve 4A-GE with vvt. i was thinking of flashing the ecu but am not sure what programmer i can use since its obd1. im looking to get more low end power from my car, and so far have put an induction system, iridium spark plugs, and plan to get a high flow muffler soon. any suggestions, or what would be involved to swap out the engine? Thanks!

    myeweb
  • I have a '96 Geo Prizm in need of the latch portion for the driver's seat belt (latch portion actually bolts to the seat). It appears there were two different size mechanisms in use. The new part I got from Toyota for a '96 Corolla as well as a latch from a junk yard from a '95 Prizm was for a seat belt tab that's about 1 1/8" wide. But my seat belt tab is only about 7/8" wide and will not work in the wider latch.

    Does anyone know where I can get the narrower style latch? Or of someone who rebuilds seat belt latches?

    Thanks very much. Bob
  • Her check engine light is on for evap I know its the canister frilter since can't fix by cap replacement or fuel treatment. Other issue is it keeps bogging down til you hit about 2600 rpms changed plugs and wires valve cover gasket and the random missfire P0300 P0302 P0303 went away when change plugs. Now it is still bogging down after change and codes were cleared the number 2 and 3 cylinder are working but not as much as 1 and 4 is they are very sluggish. We are thinking its a fuel injector since they have 139000 miles on them. Any insight? If any answer are out there working on this tomorrow I will have my cell 3154069729 could use some help can't get the parts yet just going to pull the top of motor apart to make sure no leaks.
  • thacherthacher Posts: 9
    Hello,
    1990 Prism, VIN code 6; 150,000m.

    When I switch it on ignition, [when engine is cold] the cooling and air conditioner [its turned off]
    fans come on at the same time. I've tested the temperature switch and it's fine. I've looked at the relays and fuses and they seem fine also. Any ideas?
    Thank you,
    Henry
  • davec4davec4 Posts: 8
    Does anyone know if the 1999 Chevy Prizm has a cabin filter and if so, how do I get to it?
  • mcdawggmcdawgg Posts: 1,666
    It does not have a cabin filter. Basically, same car as a '99 Corolla.
  • Use a punch tool and sledge to drive the stud out the back of the hub. Autoparts stores can sell you a replacement stud for a few dollars. Get a short stack of thick washers that allow the stud to pass through the center. These will allow you to put the lug nut on without bottoming out your lug wrench. Push the new stud through the hub from the back aligning the grooves in the stud with the ones in the hub if they are grooved. Put the wheel nut on reversed so the wide part of the nut is against the washers. Turn the nut to pull the stud through the hub. Watch the back side to pull it only as far as needed to fully seat the stud.
  • Heres a possible solution to the check engine light. These cars are known for an oil leak at the rear of the block where the timing chain tensioner is located. The tensioner has a round rubber gasket that leaks. That leak allows oil to be burnt by the engine it is going out the exhaust, and coating the catalyst, and the oxygen sensor. It took months for me to diagnose the issue. I replaced the tension as it came with a new rubber gasket as well as a strong spring to apply proper tension to the timing chain.

    I replaced the damaged o2 sensors which cleared all the codes. Car runs great now! Another thing to check depending on the code is the intake manifold gasket. Its metal and can warp which leaves a very tiny amount of air into the intake which gives the car the "lean fuel" code.
  • We are getting some horrible and I mean horrible gas mileage and serious lack of power and high Rpm's on our car. Our manifold converter is I desperate need of replacement and after speaking with a muffler shop, who btw tried to hit us hard with costs, we decided to replace it ourselves. But in the meantime can we gut it out and drive it like that or do we risk damaging the engine? Can it be bypassed completely? Can we get some info on this from anyone who's had these issues??
    Thanks for your response....
  • I have a 94 Geo Prizm 1.6 L that will not start. This is the second time in as many months where this has occurred. After the first, I found that the coil was bad and got back up and running after that replacement. Now, I find that I am not getting sufficient power to the fuel pump for it to run. I have tested both the EFI main relay and the other relay in the circuit (can't recall the name), and get battery voltage to the downstream relay but only a small voltage (100 mV) coming out. I tested the fuel pump, and applied battery voltage directly to it and it works. What other sensors or relays are coming into play here that I need to check?
  • yeah problem with shifting out of park and brake lights not working. BUT I can get them to work if i tighten up my brake pedal. I HAVE not seen this on other posts. RAW pumping up the pedal COLD and making it tight I can have brake lights for a couple of stops until it gets loose. then I Lose contact with sensor. Whatup? I need brake lights damnabgit I live in San Diego
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