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High Performance Luxury Sedans

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  • dhanleydhanley Posts: 1,531
    And you can get an m3 with four doors. :)

    Not sure if the g8 gxp will be a luxury car...

    Also, the new CTS-V now holds the record for fastest nurburg ring lap by a sedan with street tires. It beat the m5 by 13 seconds! Looks like they must have gotten the handling sorted out...
  • We have a well kept 1998 XJR which we have been driving only once or twice a month. Today I drove it about 15 miles to work - it ran flawlessly. At lunch I took it out for a few miles (the temp in Dallas is approx 90 degrees) then parked it at the gym. After an hour I started the car and it immediately died. I tried again and managed to get it to idle, but roughly. It died. I could depress the accelerator but it seemed to have no effect. It would only start, run rough, then die. After an hour, it would only turn over and never attempt to start (the engine would never start running on it's own - even roughly). We had the car towed home and my gear head neighbor came over. He had me engage the key (turn it on, but no to start the car). He could not hear the fuel pump whine. We checked all fuses (those in the trunk) and even located and checked the fuel cut off switch in the passenger floorboard. How can I determine if an engine sensor might be disabling the fuel pump relays versus the fuel pump simply being dead?

    Thanks. James
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    Well, James, actually driving the car might've prevented this problem. A 10 year old car that's only been driven 20 or so times?? I can only imagine how much stuff is fouled/corroded in the engine and/or fuel delivery system. :sick: Once you get it fixed, you need to start putting some miles on that thing!

    You can use a volt meter to check voltage at the fuel pump relay. My guess, though, is that you have a tank full of bad gas considering you've probably only filled it up maybe 3 times in 10 years, if that. :sick: Mix some octane booster, injector cleaner (might not hurt to throw a little xylene in there, too), and some fresh gas in with that old stuff, and change the fuel filter and spark plugs. Then when/if you get it started drive it until the tank's almost empty. On your way to the gas station, stop by an AutoZone, Advance Auto, etc. and pick up a can of Sea Foam. Head to the gas station, preferably someplace with Techron or other strong detergent mixed in the fuel (Shell, Texaco), poor in the Sea Foam, fill tank, and drive the car more often.
  • Thanks very much for your reply. I think I was not clear. The car was driven daily by my wife, but recently (for the past 4 months) it has only been driven twice a month (purely to keep things in check). The tank was down to nearly empty and so I stopped on the way to work and filled the tank. I then drove it about 20 miles and it ran fine. At lunchtime, when I started it, it idled rough then died. It would then never start. I had it towed home where we checked the fuel pump fuses (but not the relays) and the fuel cutoff - all seemed OK. My neighbor (a mechanic) said that when I engaged the ignition, he could not hear the fuel pump whine (to pressurize the lines) so he thinks the pump is dead. We have not checked the voltage at the pump to see if the relay happens to be dead. Note - I did change the battery just the night before as it had died. What say you?
  • Actually my Jag mechanic suggested I had water in the tank. Why I dont know. We keep it in the garage, and while we have not driven it in a few weeks - I can not think how it could be water. (Was it the full tank of gas I picked up that morning at a Shell station?) May I ask you - are the fuel pump relays next to the fuses in the trunk? I was also told (by another mechanic) that I can get to the fuel pump electrical leads by removing the trunk panels and I can check for voltage/no voltage there.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,938
    Yes, I believe on all Ford and Ford owned companies, the fuel relay/shutoff/reset is located behind a panel (or the liner) on the lefthand side of the trunk. You'll know it when you see it. If I recall, it is black with yellow writing and/or a yellow switch on the top of it.
  • Karen@EdmundsKaren@Edmunds Posts: 5,023
    A reporter from a large finance magazine is looking to speak to consumers who just purchased a new Audi A8. If you’re interested in speaking to the reporter, please contact Chintan Talati at ctalati edmunds.com with your daytime contact information no later than June 23, 2008.

    Karen-Edmunds Community Manager

  • pavlpavl Posts: 1
    Considering a used S6 (2006-2008) off lease. How is the maintenance track record? Does the Lambo V10 burn oil or have other challenges?
  • Looking for details before driving 100 miles to see this M5. VIN: WBSDE93423CF92862. Thank you for anyone that may be able to assist.
  • If you visit the VIN Check discussion, someone may be able to tell you whether you should get the full report. Since the reports are a fee-for-service operation, no one will give out the full report for free.

    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • gmhellmangmhellman Posts: 121
    I am looking at purchasing a low miles early 2000s BMW M5. Prices vary widely on these models. KBB puts a 2002with 67,000 miles at 16,650 for private sale. The seller wants 19,500 because "it is in excellent condition and hardly driven in last 3 years". I have seen dealers put up 2003 M5s with under 20,000 miles for over 40K! KBB is 19K.

    What is the fair price I should be looking for? I need advice as this is the first time that I am purchasing a european sports sedan.

    Thanks.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Stamford, CTPosts: 7,127
    Well, the first thing you should be concerned with is the car's maintenance and repair history. Second, you should have a PPI (pre purchase inspection) done by a qualified independent mechanic or BMW dealer. The price of the car is almost irrelevant. You DO NOT want to buy a "cheap M5" because it will BLEED YOUR BANK ACCOUNT dry if it wasn't properly cared for.

    Also, since you are looking for a "low miles" car, you will most likely be dealing with owners who know they have something special.

    M5s have aging problems just as other E39 5 series of that vintage (1996 - 2003) such as pixels that have disappeared from the climate control or dash cluster as well as M5 specific issues like a clutch that needs to be replaced around the 60K mark (YMMV).

    I'm not trying to scare you. E39 M5s are fantastic cars. They are durable and will last a long time as long as they are properly cared for. Get an inspection and let us know how it works out.

    You might also might try searching and joining bimmerfest. Good luck & keep us posted!

    2001 Honda Prelude Type SH/ 2011 BMW 328xi / 2011 Honda Pilot EX-L w/ Navigation

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