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2010 Ford Escape



  • I took mine back to the dealership again...and finally they loosened the engine motor mounts and exhaust system bolts in an attempt to neutralize the problem. This cured my vibration issues to the point it is not a problem anymore. I hope this helps you with your vehicle.

    P.S. Ford Motor Company still say's this is not a problem and is a vehicle characteristic but my dealership was willing to try the above and it worked.
  • normkolnormkol Posts: 134
    I get that squeek, or groaning sound, very often on acceleration. I've read in other forums where people are getting it, also.

    Apparently, the word from Ford is that it is normal for this car. Doesn't sound right to me, other cars don't do this.

    I only have 1k on the car now, when it goes for the first service I'll see what they say.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Or since your sale is now a sure thing "your" Escape got sold "opportunistically" to another walk in buyer.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 39,972
    Oh yeah, that happens too. It helps to get a VIN as soon as possible after you do the order. But your car can still get sold once it hits the lot.

    Slow day? You're reading some old threads there. :shades:

    Need help navigating? - or send a private message by clicking on my name.

  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..the awd will also help when the roads are wet.."


    But then only as you accelerate from a stop, accelerate from a fairly low speed, or accelerate in a fairly tight turn, low speed also assumed. These are the ONLY times you will have the F/awd system pre-emptively engaged. At all other times you will be driving a simple, inherently DANGEROUS (on adverse roadbed conditions) FWD vehicle.

    Other than pre-emptively, as described above, the only time the rear drive will be engaged will be under the aspects of TC, Traction Control. Those TC events will ALWAYS be preceded by the detection of front wheelspin/slip(***). At which point TC will activate, instantly dethrottling the engine, "hammering" the front brakes, and simultaneously engaging (uselessly IMMHO) the rear drive.

    Virtually USELESS F/awd system.

    If you wish to have the dry road, highly tractive roadbed, traction and FE of FWD, but with the addition of appropriate torque distribution to the rear as necessary, then the Honda/Acura SH-AWD system is the only solution in the market today.


    *** Front wheelspin/slip due to too much engine torque being used for current roadbed conditions is such a "dire" matter, THREAT to safety, that all "stops must be pulled out" on even the slightest hind of same.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Even having the VIN doesn't always help.

    I had pre-ordered a 2000 Porsche C4 at MSRP, paid the dealer a deposit, but "my" car was sold to a higher bidder the moment it arrived. C4's were apparently in high demand but in very short supply in 2000. The dealer's "Pipsqueak" manager, Barrier Porsche in Bellevue WA, even denied I had made a deposit. My deposit was returned via USPS about a week later.

    I have a 2001 C4 that I ordered over the internet, never met the dealer/salesman, took delivery of the Porsche at the factory.
  • Precisely why I went with a 2004 Escape (back in 2004) instead of the 2005...that and the fact that I got a super killer deal. 2004 and older 4WD Escapes come with a similar system as the 2005 and up models which is FWD biased but will transfer traction to the rear wheels when slipage is detected. However, I am able to turn a switch on the dash and turn on "4x4" constantly up to 25 MPH which comes in handy if you know you are in slippery situation instead of waiting to slip and have power transferred to the rear wheels.
  • I have the same problem with my 2010 Escape, I just got back from the dealer and they told me that it is normal but there is a transmission chain that is causing the noise and there is a new chain they will install that will "reduce" the noise but not remove the noise totally. In any case I am having it done and they ordered the part. It will be an all day job involving dropping the transmission so they are gonna give me a loaner. I would suggest this to your dealer. I will post again after I have the work done and let you know the result.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,614
    sorry, but get a clue and quit ingesting all the hype.
    SH-AWD maybe great, but it is only better in extreme situations.
    My Fusion AWD has made it through many bad situations, you just have to learn to trust it.
  • "I had pre-ordered a 2000 Porsche C4 at MSRP, paid the dealer a deposit, but "my" car was sold to a higher bidder"

    I ordered a F150 back in 94 and had all the signed paperwork. They sold it by mistake. My sister in law was a banker and told me that it is illegal to sell a car to 2 different people so I told the dealer that they broke the law and they let me pick out any f150 on the lot.
  • I have the same problem and Ford claims to have a Drive Train in the Transmition belt that causes this . I am waiting for parts to replace the chain belt. I don't know yet if this resolves the problem but I was told by the dealer that Ford was aware of this problem.
  • The 2010 6 speed auto has Drive and Low only. I drive in the mountains a lot where I traditionally shift in my Highlander (which had Drive, 3, 2 and Low) between 3 and 2 on these hills especially downhill in the snow.

    The dealer said by disengaging the overdrive it will downshift from 6 to 4. This still concerns me - so now I can go from 4 to Low only?

    Do you think this is a dealbreaker? My other option is the 2010 Subaru Outback which I think is a better car. However, as a single 30's guy, it scares me a bit since the 2009 and before were pure stationwagons.

  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    We have a 2009 V6 with the six speed auto. I wouldn't think it would be a deal breaker, but on occasion I have wished I had more control of the transmission. At least an intermediate gear between 4 and 1 would be appreciated. The rest of Escape has been excellent.
  • Since the Escape switched to rear drum brakes for 2010 has any body noticed a greater stopping distance? I read that this was a cost cutting measure which resulted in a major safety defect.
    I consider this to be a backward move from Ford.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 549
    They switched to rear drum before 2010. We have a 2009 V6 and it has drum brakes on the rear. Our 2007 had disc brakes all around. I was somewhat concerned about the switch as well, however, our 2010 brakes fine--smooth, no pulling and excellent pedal feel. The front brakes do most of the stopping. I suppose if I was driving in the Alps I might notice a difference, but as far as I can make out they are the equal to the all disc brakes on our 2007.
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,614
    it's an automatic transmission. why not let it figure out what gear it needs to be in?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,614
    our 2004 has about 80k on it and has rear drums. they have been cleaned a few times, but original pads, still in the 'green' according to the last inspection report.
    80% of braking is the job of the front brakes.
    our 09 also has rear drums. they seem to work perfectly well.
  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Posts: 191
    Yes they will work but I was told that the stopping distance on the Escape is longer than any SUV that has 4 wheel discs.
    This seems to be a major complaint of rating companies like
    Consumer Reports etc.
  • normkolnormkol Posts: 134
    Consumer Reports has complained about the brakes in the past, but they say the 2010 model is much improved.

    That said, I think it was crazy for Ford to use this as a cost cutter. Almost any suv you buy today has 4 wheel discs. This was poor judgement, in my opinion.

    Almost as bad as removing the grab handles over the driver's door. There is only one left, on the A-pillar of the passenger side. I have a bad back and bad knees, and I used them often on my 2002 Tribute.

    This was almost a deal breaker for me, but I still bought a 2010 Mariner.
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