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2010 Ford Escape



  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Posts: 191
    Why would you buy a SUV that has the longest stopping distance than any other SUV on the market today?
    I am holding off on my purchase for now.
  • rnmomrnmom Posts: 32
    Cant decide both offer leasing deals that work for me. I am happen to like the look of the escape and its dash....
    Not into mechanical stuff Opinions please
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    edited March 2010
    "It" can't see the road ahead.
  • cannon3cannon3 Posts: 296
    After 2 months of looking and test driving it came down to 2 choices that my wife liked. She liked both the Subaru Forester and the Ford Escape. She took both for back to back test drives the same day and decided she liked the Escape better. She liked the seating position and just the way the Escape "felt" when driving. Sync was also a good selling point. Then the hunt began for a 2010 Escape Limited 2.5 automatic AWD in steel blue. Love the internet! We located one about 45 miles from our house. Did the negotiating right over the internet. Came to a price and picked the vehicle up. Dealership was great. Had the vehicle ready for inspection/test drive when I arrived. Parked right in front. Some may say the 4cyl on the Escape is "noisy". It is really no noisier than any other 4cyl SUV on the market today. The power is adequate. We have no use for a v6 and wanted the additional MPG. Can't race it that is for sure ;) Love the sync system
  • mld4mld4 Posts: 4
    This occurred on my 2010 Escape Limited. Today I was told that there is a Ford TSB just released. It is a problem with the bushing. They applied lubricant. Hopefully this solved the squeak. Otherwise Ford replaces the bushings.
  • jvdx02jvdx02 Posts: 2
    I purchased a 2010 Escape XLT 2 weeks ago. I got all of 13 miles from the dealership and the ABS and Traction Control light came on. Once I turned off the car, turned it back on and then made a turn, the light went out. This has occured about 8 times now. I brought it back to the dealership and they said they had to reset the computer system. I got the car back yesterday and on my way home the lights came on again. Does anyone have any suggestions?
  • explorerx4explorerx4 Central CTPosts: 9,614
    let us know how the mileage is.
    my wife had an '04 v6 and now has an '09 v6, old average 19.2 mpg, new average 22 mpg.
  • mld4mld4 Posts: 4
    It has been one full day after the Ford service did the warranty work. I have not heard the "squeak". Hopefully, this should do it.
  • cannon3cannon3 Posts: 296
    Is this from acceleration? I think I may have heard this on my wifes new 2010 Ford Escape 4WD. Does anyone have the TSB#?
  • mld4mld4 Posts: 4
    Yes accelerating from a stop. My Ford service people lubricated the bushings according to the TSB and now it is fine. I do not know the TSB #.
  • normkolnormkol Posts: 134
    Look at the April issue of Consumer Reports. The stopping distance of the Escape/Mariner for 2010 is no worse than most other suv's. They even point that out in their report.
  • normkolnormkol Posts: 134
    I'm getting that squeak, but I read that the TSB was for a chain in the transaxle. I don't want them opening up the transaxle on a new car.

    If it's only lubricating a bushing, that's ok.

    I have 3500 miles. At 5000, it goes for its first service, we'll see then.
  • schim21schim21 Posts: 1
    I "built" my 2010 Escape XLT specifically to get the 4WD and a few things that I wanted to be sure I had. I was also told that they do not put the 4x4 on the car anymore. The sticker says 4WD but when I log onto - my account (that has my vin#) says can I be sure I have 4WD? I plan on using it this summer for vacation at the Outer Banks driving on the sand. Any help will be appreciated.
  • mld4mld4 Posts: 4
    VIN is interpreted as AWD. The specs in the manual refer to 4WD. Reading the manual this means the same.
  • normkolnormkol Posts: 134
    I think traditionally 4WD was for vehicles with a low-range. AWD is what most crossovers have, automatic 4 wheel drive without the low range.
  • I took your advice and brought the car back. They were willing to try this and it worked! - thanks!. The mechanic explained that the motor mount and exhaust system bolts were most likely tighted before the engine "settled" into place when installed, so they loosened everything and then tightened it up again (there was probably contact with the body somwhere). I guess the vehicle "characteristic" is some factory line workers being oversealous with the pneumatic bolt tighteners....Anyway they also menteined there was a new service bulletin on the Mariner/Escape's computer (PCU?) and they had to reprogram it - it seems to shift more naturally now as well (I had chalked it up to fuel-saving programing for the transmission shift points).
  • I have a 2010 Escape with 20,000 miles. I took the car in for an oil change etc. Ford called me and said the rotators were very rusted and need to be "cleaned/planed". Also, the pads should be replaced. Cost $226.00 not covered by warranty. Oh yeah, it will be 36 months later this month since i bought it new.

    This DOES NOT seem right, thoughts anyone?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I don't like it either. Were the brakes pulsating when you applied them? Rusty rotors are irrelevant, the minute you put on the brakes, the rust is instantly removed. So that is bogus. As for pads, depends on how worn they are, but pads often last 50,000 miles unless you drive a lot in hilly terrain or ride the brakes a lot. I would tell them no. This car should need nothing in 20000 miles under normal conditions.
  • They said the brakes were pulsating when applied but, honestly, i didn't notice it. They said the rust on the rotors wore the pads down and i should have them replaced. Maybe not a good decision on my part but was kind of taken off guard by this issue.

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Sadly, the dealers are not Ford, they are customers of Ford, and re-sell their cars. Some of them are not honest. Some Service Advisors are not honest, but the dealer is. Bottom line, find a service advisor you trust and like, and stay with them if possible. That's what I have learned works the best. I have some stories I could tell that would punctuate my point, but who cares. I'm just saying, you can't always trust a dealer, just because they're factory authorized. You can however, report them to the factory.
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