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Ford Expedition engine cutting off while driving



  • How many miles on it? That sounds like it is probably a coil pack going bad. Could take a while for a CEL light to come on. I drove for a 1000 miles waiting, and finally did the coil packs before the light came on. The dealer was able to see pending codes for misfires, so it was going to come on eventually.
  • Thank you I did a scan today and it was # 5 mis fire I replaced the coil and it is fine. Thank you
  • Cool. It's always nice to hear back. You might expect others will start to go out on you now as well. Might want to get a set to have on hand. You can get an 8 pack of aftermarket ones on ebay for around 90 bucks that include the coils, boots and springs as opposed to Ford parts that are 90 each.
  • I have had the fuel pump replaced and changed out the coil wire. I havent had any engine codes . It doesnt do it all the time but twice now it has completely shut off. Does anyone have any idea
  • My 2003 Expedition would do this for years. I was so use to it that I would put it in neutral and start it up before I came to a stop. My wife was not able to drive the Expedition. Once I replaced the fuse box the problem went away. I was able to open up the fuse box and found the burnt area on the board. Replacing the fuse box should solve the problem for randomly cutting out.
  • Thanks for the info. Is it the fuse box under the hood or under the dash?
  • daphnebdaphneb Posts: 1
    When your engine was stalling because of the wire rubbing on the AC pipe would the engine start back up? We have replaced so many parts and it is still cutting off.I'm ready to go to work tomorrow and check out the wire. Hope thats the problem.
  • Just looked at my wire and found some bare threads also. At first I was looking at the wrong Aluminum pipe, u shaped one, but then followed the the instructions more closely and found exposed wires on the underside of the cable. Have taped them up and hoping it's the fix. Thanks!!!
  • ljzljz Posts: 1
    2003 Ford Expedition started normally and then quit when I pulled on road. Smelled gas and appeared to be leak near rear passenger tire. Turns over fine but wont start. Where should I start looking; I'm confused by what appears to be a gas leak near that right rear tire?
  • dnyce2udnyce2u Posts: 1
    edited August 2012
    2003 Ford Expedition Starts an run great. Only until i go run my errands im out the vehicle the truck MUST to stay on or it will not start back up until an hour later! Something is needing to cool off in order for the truck to start back up again. Ford can not figure out the reason why the dealership where i got the SUV from cant either. Both places has gone as far as putting a FUEL PUMP,THERMOSTAT,RADIATOR CLAMP,one more part i cant think right now. its been in the shop over 10 times the longest they have keep the vehicle is 1wk an 3days an that's when they only put in the THERMOSTAT. and i`m still having over heating problems still cant turn my truck off ck engine lights coming on. Please give me some answers!
  • I have a 2001 Ford Expedition, my power windows, air vents/ A/C also does not work. My dash lights, turn signals, 4 way flashers dont work when my headlights are on . HELP Please.
  • My expedition will not go over 40mph. The tranny seems to be slipping put isnt throwing any codes. The only codes I am getting are for the fuel system. I changed the fuel pump, filter and pressure regulater and nothing changed. Does any one have any ideas.
  • Coils and plugs maybe?
  • cpitkincpitkin Posts: 1
    edited September 2012
    My 2003 5.4 Expedition Eddie Bauer was losing power and stalling intermittently for about a year. Same kind of issue as described here on this thread, stalling and restarting almost right away. It would be fine for a couple months and then stall out frequently, then it would be ok for awhile. No codes, no check engine light.
    I replaced the battery cable so many have mentioned which was rubbing on the AC pipe. The replacement cable from the dealer has a braided anti-chafe cable so that is a good part to replace regardless.. I also had the PCM programed by the dealer and yet it kept stalling.

    This month it started to stall on a much more regular basis and I was able to get it to happen on my mechanic's watch. He had a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and it was losing pressure at stall. He figured it was the pressure regulator or part of the entire fuel pump assembly. There is no fuel pump control module as in newer models, the PCM controls the fuel pump from what I understand. So he replaced the fuel pump assembly in the fuel tank., but the next day it hesitated at highway speeds twice and then stalled out at low speeds twice. uhg!

    Upon looking into the fuel issue more I came across these two with a complete no-run and one with an intermittent. - auer-expedition.html

    Both authors describe a bad fuse box design, either from a windshield seal allowing moisture into the box or a bad circuit board design. I ordered an OEM fuse box from here: - un-p/3l1z-14a068-aa.htm

    They had it in stock and $60 less than dealer price. The part came in a Ford Factory sealed box with all new fuses and relays installed. Installation took less than 30 minutes. I didn't take the time to disassemble the box to get to the relay. I'm guessing though that since I have yet to have the truck stall again and have replaced every other part in the fuel system I finally have found the issue. My mechanic did believe that the fuel pump assembly may have been the root cause of the relay overheating. Saying that if it was drawing too many amps and the relay was soldered on it could have been the reason for it to lose connectivity. I guess that plausible. I would have the amperage draw tested before replacing the fuse box just to ensure the fuel pump assembly is OK and that you don't blow another $300 fuse box.
  • I was having the same problem with my truck. I recently changed out the fuel pump relay and changed the fuel filter. So far the truck hasn't cutoff.
  • I found the wire that was causing the engine to stall at low & high speed, taped it good with electrical tape, made sure no electrical wiring(s) are touching the aluminum freon pipes but my Expedition continue to stall. I hooked up my scanner to check my I/M monitors, I have no check engine light, & my evap system is "incomplete" (rest are "OK"). Also I noticed my idle speed is slightly low between 750-800 rpm at start up & down 700 rpm at warm temp. So I took off the air intake assembly & did a visual check. I found the fuel vapor separator tube (hose) is deteriorated, Ford Motorcraft part #9D289, that connect to the vapor canister purge valve part #9C915. It's dealer only item & would you believe it cost $57.18? Cleaned the throttle & intake & sensor connectors with CRC spray cleaners. Then I went to Pep Boys & got me a 3/8" I.D. X 2' of fuel line hose for $4.49 plus tax to replace the fuel vapor separator hose. My rpm now is around 1K rpm at start up and around 800 rpm at operating temp. Drove it around the neighborhood, no problem. It's idling fine.......Test drive at high speed (freeway) in an hour. Wish me luck.
  • Found this video on You Tube video, hope it help you find that fuel vapor hose.

    Mine is fixed. I did visual & wiggle tests, got lucky & saved a lot on expensive suspect defective sensors & parts. I did replaced my in-line fuel filter but that's overdue. Other than that, I spent $4.49 for the temporary fuel line hose but ordered the oem Ford 9D289 fuel separator hose & for 2 cans of CRC Throttle Body & Electrical Parts/Connector Cleaners.

    Good luck.
  • Hello,

    I read your post but I am having a hard time finding the wires. I was hoping you knew the names of those wires so I can you tube or google it and see how I am able to fix my car. I am having the same exact problems you were having. I to have a 2003 Ford Expedition. Thank you!!
  • isnideisnide Posts: 1
    I had the same problem. Replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, took it in for repeated diagnostic. Of course it never dies while at the dealer or my regular mechanic. It finally dies and would not re start. I had the dealer test for power all the way back to the fuel pump. Turned out it was the fuel pump relay. Had to replace the whole interior fuse panel.
    Just glad it finally got figured out
  • joeg8joeg8 Posts: 3
    The guys at the dealership couldn't find the cause for this issue.
    Said I have to start the elimination process by changing the fuel pump and some other stuff quoted at around $1500 total.
    Didn't do it.
    Last week it died again and I couldn't start it.
    Had it towed to PepBoys in Thousand Oaks CA .
    The guys their spend almost two days to diagnose what is the real problem.
    Eventually they said it is most likely the interior fuse panel.
    They got a new one - and the car works great.
    Cost: $415 for an original Ford fuse box
    Installation and diagnostic: $250
    Total: $665
    Very happy with Pep boys!
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