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My wife has an '03 Ford Expedition with 110k miles on it. It began dying while driving. Usually when stopping or idling. She would describe that sometimes when it began acting like it was going to die she could "give it gas" and it would revive, other times that wouldn't work. It would usually restart after one or two tries. Our local mechanic did a tune up and replaced a coil. During a trip she began hearing a sound of "metal shredding" and the car died and wouldn't restart. She had it towed to a Ford dealer. They replaced the IAC valve. After that the dying would continue but instead of dying right away it would "lose acceleration, and eventually die within a few seconds" Took it to another Ford dealership and they replaced the fuel pump, filter and relay. It would work fine for a few weeks and then start dying again. Another local mechanic noted the error code P0231 "Fuel Pump Secondary Circuit Low" He kept it for a few weeks and was able to get it to die for him once but not again. The dying continued. Sometimes it would work great for weeks, other times it would die continually on the same trip. Took it to a 3rd dealer and they couldn't find anything wrong.
It dies in the cold and in the heat. Usually after driving at least 20 minutes into a trip. Once it dies once it will typically continue to do so until resting for a day or so. Sometimes with a full tank of gas, sometimes with a low tank.
What you describe is the exact issue I have with my 2003 Lincoln Navigator with 180k. I HAVENT attempted any repairs and or replacement of parts yet. After it dies, I typically wait 30 seconds and then it starts right back up. If I attempt to start it immediatley after it dies, the motor just turns over but wont start (must wait about 15-30 seconds). Some days it will die only once, other days 3-6 times all within an hours and then it seems to be good. It may drive fine for days, maybe a couple weeks before it dies again. My idle is only about 650 warmed up, not sure if thats where it should be for this vehicle but seems a bit low to me (could be why the motor seems a lil bit ruff at idle...? not bad but just slightly....
I havent checked the battery wire along the AC line everyones refering to and I havent looked at the fuse panel issue...(i guess the fuse panel is same in lincoln navigators as it is ford expeditions)
My shade tree theory was that "maybe"...just maybe, seeing as I have to wait a half minute or so before it will start back up (I typically leave the iginition key on during this wait time) that maybe I am loosing fuel pressure and with the ignition key on, it allows the pump to build pressure back up, allowing it to start up again. Just a theory and not a diagnoses......?
I guess I will start looking over some of the things mentioned here in hopes of saving some coin.
Someone please give me ideas I have spent so much on my truck took it to aamco. ford macombs west and they both said they would have me driving out of there with no problems. Ford said it was the PCN and a bunch of others stuff spent 1900 and never fixed it Aamco picked it up with a wreck because on top of that they messed up the transmission. Aamco charged 2700 for the transmission and electrical work once they saw they couldn't figure it out they said that was something they had not touched so I had to pay on top of that for them to do another diagnostic. We got this truck brand new so its hard when you know you've taken good care of it and you've been the only owner. Please any suggestions.
I have finally fixed my stalling problem in my 2003 ford expedition and wanted to share the repair with you, first of all for the safety of our families, and the cost of everything the mechanics think is wrong (even most ford mechanics are not aware of this fix) I have been lucky and never did the coil packs, fuel pump and new throttle body and valve. I did waste money on the camshaft sensor and IAC control valve; I did keep the old one so I have a back up if I need it in the future. I didn’t try the high octane fuel fix because I heard of this year throwing spark plugs which are big bucks to repair. Putting on this part and looking at the old one makes me think I didn’t even need a new one, but didn’t know what to expect when I bought it. The bracket connects the alternator to the positive terminal on your battery. If you start at the battery + terminal it has 2 red wires coming out of it. They are both usually red and about the same thickness. One of them goes into a long black rectangle clip that says “fusable Link” or something like that. Then comes out the other side and goes to the alternator. Past the fusable link box there will be 2 wires that split off of this wire. If you are in front of the truck one wire runs towards you and is pretty short. It plugs into another wire. The second wire is longer and it runs away from you THIS IS the wire you need to follow. It runs back towards the battery into a plug under it. Follow this wire from where it comes off of the big wire. You will find it resting on a silver/aluminum tube (its an AC pipe) Flip the wire over where it is touching this pipe, you will find the wire is rubbed down to the bare metal!!! It is randomly shorting out your engine and you will STALL. If I didn’t by the part I would try to tape it up, tape the pipe it rests on as well or get some foam tubing for the pipe, if the wires are too worn, looks like you could always use a wire nut.
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