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Chevy Express/GMC Savana

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  • You posted your message over two years ago and it helped me. Thank you. I too replaced the fuel pump . . . and the fuel regulator and was thinking about the fuel injectors. You are right--that mass air flow sensor does make a difference--it needs to be clean and just spraying alone won't do it. On the can of CRC MAS cleaner they say don't touch it, but you have to--just very, very gently with a sharpened erasure sprayed with cleaner and periodically wiped on a clean cloth. The center of each hair-thin wire looks like a very small resistor. The side that was dirty on each was the side facing the air flow. The engine side of the wire/resisters looked clean. I got out my magnifying glass to check it out. Thanks again. I haven't read about this anywhere else.
  • I have a express van with the 5.7 V8 that is giving me 3 check engine codes

    P0161 - o2 heater bank 2 sensor 2 (which side - o2 after cat?)

    P0300 - misfire (Will low fuel pressure cause this one?)

    P0420 Cat. efficient low on Bank 1 (what should I check?)

    Which side would bank 1 and bank 2 be? I have replaced both of the O2 sensors on the passenger side last year.
  • Are these two vans the same product off the line excpet for the name plate?

    Great forum here!

    Thanks!

    RonWind
  • Zoyberg, I dont think your fp is your problem. 50 is actually normal. 58-63 is the book amount I think, but virtually all the ones I ve checked are 50-54 running.

    I believ its the difference between key on and running with vacuum pulling the fp down alittle.

    Since you did plugs and wires, thats probably the problem. Put cheap copper plugs in again, and check the wires carefully. The hesitation is undoubtably a mis causing your nisfire code. The bank 2 sensor 2 should be the passenger side rear (after cat) o2 sensor. My scanners can watch each o2 sensor seperatly to verify the operating condition.

    The 420 code, has me stumped, other then a lazy o2 (rear drivers) or a bad cat itself. If you have plugged cats, that could cause your mis, the exhuast not being able to get out, thus causing a huge back up in the cylinder. Ussually they get progressively worse till the cat is completely closed and the veh will not run, or just barely. I would suspect the cats, maybe more if you towed with it, and or it has a lot of miles.

    Ronwind: Yes the gmc and chevy express are the same vehicle with different name plates. Some say the gmc's are built better, and I always laughed at that, but just recently I compared an 04 express to my 03 savana. The savana does have some bolts holdng small trim peices on were the express does not, and it uses a spring clip. So it does infact look like the gmc maybe built a tinny bit better.

    The grills and trims are different but all the major parts interchange, and many of teh van parts interchange with the chevy/gnc trucks also, like the 1500's and 2500's.

    Most of the van parts are left overs from previous year truck builds. The vans get the left over stuff.

    The 04 express awd, I just referenced is almost done......I put on larger combustion chamber heads, a mls head gasket, head studs, a z06 vette cam, a cummins intercooler, and ballbearing pt 72 turbo. It should make in the middle 500awh area soon.
  • 2005 AWD Express Explorer Conversion with Tow package, 5.3L AWD.

    I tow a 30ft I/O Pontoon most weekends May thru September, 25 to 30 miles each way. You really know it is there mostly at 50MPH+. From a stop you hardly notice. When I first tested a similar tow vehicle it had a 5.7L and was much better at the 50MPH+ speeds. Start/Stops were equal.

    Hope that helps.
  • right turn signal works good thenwhen i put brake on turn signal speeds up, ??? how do I fix
  • 1320jon1320jon Posts: 18
    you got me on the turn signal....it would look at the bulb, the wiring and teh grounds near the tail lights first.

    The reason they fall on there face at 50 + mph is power and gear ratio. The 4l60e takes a huge jump from 2nd to 3rd. 3rd is 1 to 1, and if you dont have the tow package you have 3.42 gears. Tow package vans got the 3.73's. A huge improvement is to reprogram the pcm for different/later shifting. Hold second longer and have it shift to 3rd at a higher rpm/speed. This could be done only when towing via programming but would be harder then just having it do it all the time.

    When I bought mine, I reprogrammed it the next day.......and I still tweak it alittle when time permits. Alot of my job is programming trucks for tire/gear changes, and doing dyno/road tuning on gm cars (vettes, ta's and camaros) which are all virtually the same as the van.
  • phalphal Posts: 1
    Did they make a 3500 Express 4x4 Diesel?
    If so, what years were then available?
    thanks...gary
  • wikingerwikinger Posts: 6
    Good day, I live in Germany and drive a Chevrolet Express Year: 97.Ich have the following problem:
    If I'm driven for some time, then my speedometer needle is hanging and is very snatch. Where should I search for the error?
  • sashdavesashdave Posts: 2
    Can anyone help me out with the recharging of my airconditioning? I've jumped on compressor clutch while adding freon.It just does'nt seem to be getting anycolder. The big line coming out of condenser is forming ice on it. Any ideas?
  • Hi,

    I have a 99 Savanna1500 5.7 ltr engine with 138k miles on it. Never had a problem with the transmission, but recently I noticed a whirring/whining sound when putting the van in reverse or drive. It doesn't make the sound when in neutral or park. No leaks and the transmission performs fine. I took it to my mechanic and he couldn't tell where the sound was coming from. He checked the transmission and drove it and said it wasn't the transmission. He thought it might be the belt tensioner or idler pulley, but the noise seems to be coming from under the van and not near the belt tensioner. The noise can only be heard at low speeds with the windows open as normal driving sounds drown it out.

    Any help on what this is will be appreciated. Getting ready to take a 2000 k trip this summer and don't want to break down on the road.
  • How much does your pontoon weigh? I am considering getting an AWD Express or Savannah and currently have a 18' camper and tow it with a AWD Safari. Looking for more power and space with the V8. How else do you like your van? How hard was it to find an AWD? I have been looking locally for months and nothing.
  • janno1janno1 Posts: 1
    The conversion was done by American Vans Inc. I need new front and rear bumper covers and so I started looking online for the company. I see now that the company does not exist or I just can not find it. Now I have no idea what to do. I even called a few Chevrolet dealerships, but they could not help me.
    If anybody can help me, Thank You!
  • narnonarno Posts: 2
    I hope somone has a remedy? I have an 04 express cargo van that i work out of, that when i have the rear doors open the wind over swings them and i keep damaging my doors.

    I would appreciate any advice. Thank you in advance. :confuse:
  • narnonarno Posts: 2
    try a website called car-part.com, its a salvage yard broker site. I find many parts there. Good luck!
  • Here is my list:

    Bought used about 8 years ago with about 60k on it, got a 3k mile warranty on it. Went on a trip from Oregon to Wyoming. Halfway through started having transmission problems. The round trip was just over 3k miles. I did take it into a Chevy dealer, but the check engine light had gone put. When I returned the selling dealer said the transmission is failing not failed. Had to rebuild tranny because the shift belts burned up.

    Since tranny work, exhaust rattles.

    About 5 years ago, had smoke come out of steering column and wipers stopped working.Kept blowing fuse. Bypassed the wiper switch assembly, put in lower amp fuse. WIpers have worked off of a toggle ever since. When taken to the dealer (a different one this time) they told me the wiper motor was drawing too much. (if that was the case the lower amp fuse would blow, has never blown since I bypassed the wiper switch)

    I am having the same issue as many with brake lights. I have even tried different types thinking a number has been transposed somewhere.

    I am going through window motors about 1 every two years.
    During replacment I thought i screwed up and broke the Hanging tabs on th edoor panel. Unfortunately I think it was more to to the cheap plastic used, as doors never touched are also falling apart. I have used a lot of JB weld to put back together and remount power lock and window switches.

    I have no A/C as of 2 years ago since it decided to spring a leak.

    I have the trademark Chevy noisy fuel pump.Got noisier after recall fuelpump work.

    Speedometer Needle is very hurky and jerky and sometimes requires a tap on the dash to see what the real speed is.

    I stumbled across this while doing yet another search for a power window motor and switch.
    :mad: :mad: :mad:
  • Here is my list:

    Bought used about 8 years ago with about 60k on it, got a 3k mile warranty on it. Went on a trip from Oregon to Wyoming. Halfway through started having transmission problems. The round trip was just over 3k miles. I did take it into a Chevy dealer, but the check engine light had gone put. When I returned the selling dealer said the transmission is failing not failed. Had to rebuild tranny because the shift belts burned up.

    Since tranny work, exhaust rattles.

    About 5 years ago, had smoke come out of steering column and wipers stopped working.Kept blowing fuse. Bypassed the wiper switch assembly, put in lower amp fuse. WIpers have worked off of a toggle ever since. When taken to the dealer (a different one this time) they told me the wiper motor was drawing too much. (if that was the case the lower amp fuse would blow, has never blown since I bypassed the wiper switch)

    I am having the same issue as many with brake lights. I have even tried different types thinking a number has been transposed somewhere.

    I am going through window motors about 1 every two years.
    During replacment I thought i screwed up and broke the Hanging tabs on th edoor panel. Unfortunately I think it was more to to the cheap plastic used, as doors never touched are also falling apart. I have used a lot of JB weld to put back together and remount power lock and window switches.

    I have no A/C as of 2 years ago since it decided to spring a leak.

    I have the trademark Chevy noisy fuel pump.Got noisier after recall fuelpump work.

    Speedometer Needle is very hurky and jerky and sometimes requires a tap on the dash to see what the real speed is.

    I stumbled across this while doing yet another search for a power window motor and switch.
  • I live in Germany and drive a 97 Express. The speedometer needle you have to disassemble the casing, and wet the shaft of the speedometer needle with silicone oil. Then again, the works reliably.
    I had the same problem.
  • I have a 2003 GMC Savana When I turn the key on all the dash gages and lights come on like normal but when you start the van there is nothing for 2 or 3 tries then it will start and run fine. Sometimes it will start and shut down. There is no service lights coming on to show a code. I was told it was a key bad but I have 3 keys it happens with all of them. Has anyone ever fond this problem and a cure.
    The van has 85000 miles it is AWD I had problems with the door pins on the side doors they were covered under warranty and they put greesable ones in on both sides. I had brakes put on it in spring of 07 it had about 60,000 on it then. The air quit this last summer and I will fix it this spring. other then this It has been a nice ride. I would a preseate any info or help with this the garage seems clueless.
  • mccsmccs Posts: 2
    Does anyone know where I can find the torque specs for the lug nuts on a 2008 Cheverolet Express?
  • wikingerwikinger Posts: 6
    This Info found in Owners manual:

    Wheel Nut Torque
    MODEL
    All
    TORQUE
    140 ft-lb (1 90 N-m)
  • mccsmccs Posts: 2
    The owner lost the owner's manual and when I researched it online, I found 4 different torque specs. We will download the owner's manual and give it to him.

    Thanks for your help.
  • bob4374bob4374 Posts: 3
    I've recently did a complete 4 wheel brake job on a 1997 1500 Series conversion van. new pads, rotors, calipers, shoes, wheel cylinders, hardware, complete bleeding no air at all coming out of bleader valves and the van has a real soft brake pedal with the van running ou can touch the pedal with you're finger and it will go almost to the floor, with the engine off and all vacum expelled out of the brake booster the pedal wont even reach the gas pedal the van stops on a dime but the pedal sux can anybody help?
  • wikingerwikinger Posts: 6
    edited March 2010
    This is to be applied when a brake rathernew normal.Wenn new coverings, must be frequently replaced, the brake pedal until the pads applied to the brake disc .After three to five times the brakes have any pressure.
    Greetings from Germany!
  • I bought a van that got attacked by squirrels last winter. They chewed up several wires that were connected to sensors and I need to find where they run back into the harness to fix them. So detailed pictures of the an engine in the van from inside the van would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks.
  • First off let me say.. I love our van! My buddies all talk crap untill its time to road trip! We also have a 03 ford excursion 7.3 diesel and does its job well. I just love vans!

    My question and I used the search and found nothing. Is there a front suspension leveling kit for our 2003 Chevy Express 2wd with 5.3?

    All help would be appreciated.

    Thanks
  • meg19meg19 Posts: 3
    edited September 2010
    MY PROBLEM ----COPY & PASTED FROM ANOTHER THREAD----

    I bought it certified with 14,000 miles. It came with a 36,000 warrenty. I now have 94,000 miles on the vehicle and I am on my fourth set of rotors!! And on top of that I have the original brake pads. As a matter of fact from 14,000 mi to 94,000 my brake pads have not worn at all. Chevy gives you a print out of how much remaining brake pad is left and my brakes have not worn AT ALL in 60,000 miles. Every old school mechanic I talk to says this is a RED FLAG that my brakes are not operating properly. I had to cut the rotors at 30,000, and then at 50,000 they were warped and too thin to resurface. I Replaced them again. At 80,000 I had to have them cut because they were warped. Then at 85,000 I had to have them replaced again because they were warped. I live in Illinois but use the vehicle for a business that has me traveling from state to state. Everytime I take it in the rolling hills of Missouri, of god forbid the mountains of Colorado, after 1 hour of hills or mountains, I can feel that they are warped. Within 1 hour of mountain driving my rotors get to hot that when I brake, my whole steering column shakes and the vehicle swerves to hard that I can barely stay within the lines on the interstate. I seriously feared for my life the four times that this has happened. I have tried to have Chevy look into this and everytime they just slap new rotors on and send me on my way. I keep telling them there is something else wrong. They give a 12,000 mile warrenty on rotors and they are warping in half that time. Chevy has had to replace them for free under warrenty 3 times and I have had to pay once. I feel like all they want to do is slap new parts on instead of finding the problem or having a
    RECALL! As a matter of fact my dealer told me that they have a couple other customers that use their Chevy 3500 Express Van as a work truck and that the same thing keeps happening to them. They try to tell me it must be my driving/braking in mountains. First of all I grew up in Colorado and had a 1984 Dodge Ram Van and never put rotors on in less that 100,000. I know how to drive in the mountains. I have spoke to corporate, who agrees something else is wrong but they won't do anything about it. They say they've checked everything. But they won't check the pressure in the master cylander with a gauge. I finally got the service supervisor to admit to me that these vehicles have crappy metal rotors from China and that they have been failing in the saftey lane tests for their ability to brake and stop in the required distance. I bought the 3500 1 ton van because I believed it would last me for years as a work vehicle. I feel that my vehicle was overated to it's weight limit and it cannot stop itself if it has ANY kind of load in the cargo area. It's just really scary because I use it for work and I have to travel to these areas and I fear for my life everytime I drive in the mountains. I am going to be writing to all kinds of people at Chevy as well as the better business bureau. I have already filed a complaint with the US DEPARTMENT OF TRANSPORTAION HIGHWAY SAFETY ADMINISTATION. THERE NUMBER IS 1-888-37-4236. IF CHEVY RECEIVES 3O OR MORE COMPLAINTS A RECALL INVESTIGATION WILL BE LAUNCHED. I am also going to contact a local Chicago newspaper writer who takes on stories like this when people are wronged by corporations. This isn't really about being wronged as much as it is about being safe.
  • I have a 1997 GMC Savana. It has a lot of brown gunk in the radiator fluid. It also overheats when I'm towing my boat. I bought a Prestone 2 Radiator Flush Kit, but I don't know which hose to cut for the fittings? I can't find the radiator drain either. Any assistance in flushing the radiator would be appreciated.
  • Hello, here in Germany, our Express and Savane bottom of the engine on the left bank of cylinders a drain plug for the cooling water.
    There, the cooling water to be drained and fresh water to wash back through the reservoir einfüllen.Than the engine with a little vinegar to warm up in cold water and drain again.
    Thereafter, the cooling system should be clean again.
    Greetings Ingo
  • Looking to buy a 2005 or 2006 Chevy/GMC conversion. Leather, low top, DVD...
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