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Saturn S-Series

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  • boatman2boatman2 Posts: 1
    I also have a 96 SL with a cracked head. I heard there was an extended warranty or TSB associated with this. Anyone have any info on:

    99-P-01 JAN 05
    Campaign Cylinder Head Cracking/Warranty Extension
  • :sick: i am having trouble with my Saturn SL-1 1995 model.
    It stalls at intersections or when you have to slow down to turn actually when it drops down under 1000 rpm's.The service engine soon light comes on right before the car starts to act up..we have had it put on a computer check and it said the EGR valve but we would like to know if there could be something else that could be giving us problems...the car also revs up to almost 5000 RPM' on it own sometimes. :(
  • oreouckyoreoucky Posts: 1
    Ok i have a 2002 sl1 with 28000 miles on it and the other day out of know where my ac doesnt blow cold air so that could be in the need for some freon or it could be related to the second problem about two days later all of a sudden my emergency light comes on and gas gauge goes all weird and is usually at empty but sometime at other spots also my temperature gauge is only reading zero and it seems to bounce along with that the lights on the ac button and rear defroster doesnt work...so my question is is this a huge electrical problem or just a simple fuse problem...any help would be extremly greatful as i am a poor college kid and i am trying not to spend to much money...oterwise i love the car and have had other saturns in the family that are still running with over 120k
  • Symptom: Throddle hesitation on accelerations once driven enough for the engine to reach normal engine running tempature. Afterwhich I have to pump accellerator to overcome hesitation typically at every light, or place the car in neutral while slightly reving to maintain an idle
    state. Also if I turn the car off and attempt to turn it back on it has a hard time achieving an idle state with out some major pumping of the accellerator to get it to a point where the car can be safely shifted into the automatic gear needed.

    **Now heres what I got from my local Saturn dealer**

    Today I picked up my 1992 LKO 1.9LL4 Saturn SL1 Sedan from my local Saturn dealer and was told it seems my problem is the Fuel Presure Regulator. Great to know ... now for the bad part they (Saturn) no longer carry the part and know of no third party mfg. that makes it.

    So here's what I'm thinking: One I posted this message to see if anyone has any recommendations and secondly I figured possibly start looking at auto salvage places.

    Well thats my delema... Any better ideas are welcomed...

    Oh, and can some one describe where the Fuel Presure Regulator is located on this car... I just want to be sure of what I am looking for when I start my Salvage hunting...

    Thank you much folks...

    Pat thanks for the heads up for the need to repost this message...

    -Charlie
  • nsdemitnsdemit Posts: 1
    my roomates chrysler did something very similar. it checked all the fuses (there may be two or three different fuse boxes), but found that it was a bad connection at the battery terminal. it got corroded with a green oxidized coating. the green stuff doesn't conduct electricity.

    hope that helps.
  • I own a 99 Saturn SC2 and I LOVE it! Any ways, about a month ago I was driving when I heard this noise that only lasted a few seconds and stopped. It happened a few times after that, so I thought it was the brakes, (thats what it reminds me of). So I took my car to the shop and they laughed and said "ma'am, your brakes are brand new all around." I described the noise and they wrote it off telling me that sometimes brake dust causes cars to do that and not to worry. Well, I didn't hear that noise again until a few days ago when it was really warm out. It was loud and continuous and squealed louder when I applied the brakes. The next day it was cool outside and it didn't make a sound! I am soooo confused! has anyone experienced this before?? What is it??
  • Ok here is the thing.....My service engine light came on. Got the oil changed, it went off. Then it came back on and did not go off. This is when all the problems started. First it started jerking while we were driving. Thought it need injector cleaner. Helped a little. Then the jerking go worse. Thought the oil was low. It was, but only by a quart. Put that in, did not help. Jerking continued to get worse. Then the acceleration slowed down. The car did not want to accelerate. Once we got passed 40 it was fine. Still a little jerky but fine. Now, I can not accelerate past 25mph, it dies unless I keep my foot on the gas. The gas mileage is beyond horrible and I can barley go in reverse. The exhaust makes a muffle sound and it smells like fuel when the car is running. Oh to top it all of, this has all happened within a 2 week period. Oh yeah, we took it to get a diagnostic test run, they said egr valve or oxegyn sensor. Cleaned the egr valve...NO HELP. Please can someone help me. We are financially strapped right now, so we can not afford to take it to a "lovely" saturn dealership and be dicked around. If we just knew what we wrong we could fix it our self. Or our friend could fix it.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hi - welcome. While you are waiting to hear from some Saturn folks here, you might also want to post this in the Got a Quick, Technical Question? discussion. There are some gearheads hanging out there who may have suggestions.

    Good luck - hope we can help.
  • dolfdolf Posts: 1
    I HAVE A NOISE COMING FROM THE FRONTEND LIKE I HAVE HEAVY DUTY WINTER TIRES ON. (AT ALL SPEEDS) CV OR WHEEL BEARING?I JUST HAD THE ENGINE REPLACED 3 WEEKS AGO, TURNED THE RADIO OFF THE OTHER DAY AND NOTICED THE NOISE.
  • My 1992 1.9 Saturn SL1 (throttle body version) is encountering acceleration hesitation problems. It happens every time when I step on the accelerator to gain
    High speed it start to accelerate in a jerking fashion so I have to pump the gas as I encounter this to over come the jerking. Once underway at high speeds it does not happen but if I come to a full stop it will reoccur when I take off again.

    I’ve changed the following items: ERG valve, oxygen sensor, and FPR.

    But the problem continues… Any recommendation will come in handy.

    -Charlie
  • I have a 96 Saturn SL2 with 98,000 miles on it (standard transmission) When I try to accelerate from stop or in any gear, it jerks. The Service Engine light starts flashing. Also when I am going up a hill, I lose speed and have to downshift to get any umpf to my car. I lose up to 20 miles an hour in speed when going uphill on a highway. I am a single mom who is tired of every mechanic trying to sell me more than what I actually need to fix on my car. My brother is trying to educate me on how to change spark clubs and general maintenance type things to help fray expenses.
  • I had a similar problem recently with my 96 Saturn. My brother helped me fix this. We had to order a shifting cable bushing from E-bay. Did a search. I do not have the guy's E-bay address anymore, but he makes several of these bushings using Neoprine. We took the boot off the gear shift and attached the bushing on the side that it was broken. The part may have cost us $20 max. And I saved 185 dollars. Saturn sells their cars cheaply but man are they proud of their parts! Hope this helps.....luvmysaturn
  • bambiebambie Posts: 12
    I have the same problem ,1997 SC1.Turn the key too on position ,but don,t start! Watch fuel gauge needle too jump from emty too whatever amout of fuel is in your tank, then try too start.I said all that too say this. when you turn your key too start,wait for your fuel pump too start. You can here it,then it will stop the humming noise(about 3-5 seconds).
  • bambiebambie Posts: 12
    My 1997 SC1 engine vibrates. I think it might be the knock sensor. Does anyone have ideas or experience?
  • tdpaul7tdpaul7 Posts: 5
    Did you get an answer to this? I have a 91, same engine, almost same problem. After mine warms up to normal operating temperature the car will buck at low speeds or even just trying to start out from a stop. It idles fine but it's quickly gotten worse (just over a week). Now it will die and not start back up until after cooling down a bit. The engine temp is normal (not even half way) when this is happening.
  • I have not gotten an answer to my post. My car does the same as Charlier3355. Please see my post. I am starting at changing the spark plugs and moving on from there. I am being told that it might be the timing belt needs to be replaced or it might be the vacuum advance. My brother has suggested we start simple and move on from there. Any other suggestions? engine temp same (not even halfway). It bucks from start to fifth gear when accelerating. I have a mechanic who thinks my clutch needs to be repaired. The thing is, it happens when I accelerate. It sometimes dies, but I can start it up immediately... for now. I have noticed that when the car isn't warmed up, it doesn't buck until it has warmed up.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Hi - this particular discussion isn't a very busy one so that's probably why you haven't heard anything yet.

    Why don't you hop over to our Transmission Traumas? discussion and ask there.

    Only thing is you need to tell the whole story instead of asking people to look at previous posts so that all of the information is in one place.

    Meanwhile maybe someone will chime in here.

    Good luck!
  • Hi tdpaul7,

    Sorry for my delayed response I’ve been off the computer working on my Bike…
    Anyway, sorry to say I’m glad someone else is encountering this darn problem maybe we can figure it out together for our benefit. It has been eating me up too… I think your brother has the right idea start with the small stuff but I don’t think the plugs are going to have any effect… You see I already did the same and the problem continued. Here’s a list of the things I did so far on my car…

    I changed the plugs, air filter, PVC valve, fuel filter and used Premium gas with top grade injector cleaners for a month and the problem continued.
    I then took the car to Saturn (I had no check engine light lit) explained the problem and after performing a diagnostics test they said the fuel pump was working fine and the item they recommended to replace the Diaphragm in the Fuel Pressure Regulator a part by the way they no longer stock is item for my 92 SL1 so I had to order one through a local Strauss Discount Auto and then take the car and the part back to them which they gladly installed at no charge and the tech at Saturn commented on the Throttle body looking a bit beat after the installation.
    While driving home I encountered the same problem so sorry to say this still didn’t remedy the problem.

    Anyway here’s where I am at now after doing some research on the web and some mechanic documentation I believe this problem to be a Fuel system problem not timing chain related. The problem could frankly be the Throttle Body. Now it looks like the Throttle Body is made up of 2 sections the top half or (fuel meter body) and it contains the Fuel injector and the Fuel Pressure Regulator. The bottom Piece or the Throttle body, and contains the throttle valve, IAC valve, TPS and the vacuum manifold or tubes which supply manifold vacuum to various engine control solenoids.

    Since I know my fuel pump and FPR to be working I would say I need to address replacing the Fuel injector for the top piece or find out if replacing the whole bottom piece (throttle body) will it contain with the new replacement a new throttle valve, IAC valve, TPS if yes then I would think replacing the bottom half to be the most focused on resolving the problem. If I get a chance tomorrow I’ll be calling Saturn to ask for a price on the replacement and installation of the throttle body. Heck let’s see if they even stock the part otherwise I’ll have to order it from somewhere else.
    I’ll keep you all posted … Paul run my thoughts on the possible solution and let me know what he thinks. If you try something else and find the problem let us all know.

    Hope some of this helps... Keep me posted... I'll do the same...
    -Charlie
  • Hmm,

    I thought the idea was to post a message as it relates to the problem and field it out in that created forum... Instead of taking a Fuel related acceleration problem discussions to a Transmission Forum???

    -Charlie
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Heh, well I never claimed to be a gearhead! :blush:

    But I was going on the little information that was presented in the one post and particularly the fact that the person was concerned that he/she had not gotten a reply. My intent was to get the person somewhere where people know more about those things than I do. And in fact to a place where more folks hang than here.

    Thanks for your reply. Hope it helps both members.
  • tdpaul7tdpaul7 Posts: 5
    Charlie,

    Thanks for the response. I had a code 34 MAP sensor error. I don't see how that was causing my problem though. I've changed the following and may have a fix. O2 sensor (no fix), MAP sensor seems to have fixed it (crazy) but it's cold here this morning and I want to test it some more. My SL1 has gotten to the point that when it warms to operating temperature it dies and will not start again until it cools. It's not running hot. I put the MAP sensor in this morning let it warm up at idle for about 45 minutes and then went and drove it --- no problems. Yesterday, after the O2 sensor I did the same and it died within 5 minutes of driving. But yesterday is was warm (upper 70's) and today it's in the 40's and rainy. Anyway, I hope the MAP sensor takes care of it but if not the research I've been doing also may point to a crankshaft position sensor. When it stops running it doesn't seem to even try to start (fire) although I haven't checked to see if there is spark yet. One thing at a time.
  • Thanks Charlie for the detailed message. Although I am "just a female", and do not understand all the technical terms in your email, your response is thorough enough for me to share with my brother. When we spoke last night, he still thinks it is the Vacuum Advance. I will share this with him and let you know what we find out. Right now we have a family member who is living out his last days (age 37) with his wife, and 2 children. He has liver cancer and we were told yesterday, it may be days if not hours before he dies. So we may not get to this right away. Appreciate your response......Nancy
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Oh, I'm so sorry. Best wishes.
  • Hey Pat,

    It's all good... :)

    When I commented I didn't realize you were the Host of this forum...You are right the idea is to help folks get to an area if needed that can generate them some feedback about their car problem.

    Thanks and keep up the great work...

    -Charlie
  • gstroudgstroud Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 SL2 101512K/60,000 miles and it is currently using oil between the dipstick lines (L and F) in about 3000 miles This seems high to me.
    Question(S):
    1)is this normal
    2)Any user with suggestions
    3)any suggestions as to synthetic vs standard oil
    4)what weight of oil for temperate summer conditions?
  • Latest on my acceleration problem….

    Since my last posting I disassembled the Throttle body and cleaned it out with carburetor cleaner. After which I reassembled and re-installed the throttle body. The car seemed to accelerate fine for a day but started up again the next day. At this point I don’t really know if the cleaning really had an impact because my acceleration problem has been an intermittent problem to begin with so it may have seemed like it worked but in fact it may just have been masked. I really don’t think any of the throttle body sensors are defective because I don’t get a check engine light. So now I’m thinking timing belt after all this car does have 144K and I don’t know if it has ever been changed.

    Does anyone know if a bad time belt would result in poor starting acceleration with infrequent throttle hesitations?
    Oh, and how much does a timing belt change on a Saturn SL1 typically go for???

    -Charlie
  • hpmctorquehpmctorque Posts: 4,337
    Saturn SLs have timing chains, not belts, and the chains don't need to be replaced.
  • I just recently purchased purchased a 98 SL2 with 95K miles. This past weekend I noticed a small amount of leaking around the sunroof. It has been raining a lot here lately in Minnesota. Any experience with this kind of problem? Is there a caulk I can buy to help improve the seal of the sunroof? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
  • ellis5ellis5 Posts: 2
    Hey Pat How do I post a new message? MY question is this. My daughter is driving a 1992 Saturn coupe two door. Almost everyday now on the way to school the car is stalling out when she turns left. Any idea why this could be happening? Thanks
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    Regarding posting a new message, I assume you mean as opposed to a "reply" to someone else? All you need to do is scroll to the bottom of the page and use the post box that you'll see there (assuming you are logged in).
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