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Saturn S-Series

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Comments

  • kronykrony Posts: 110
    Sounds similar to what I had this Spring...Saturn dealer started by replacing electrical stuff (battery and cable) and sent it home. Same exact thing when I pulled off the lot. I was suspicious from the start with the "have to start with elecrical first..." They then adjusted the input nut in the transmission and sent it home. Pulled off the lot and bad 2-3 shift was fixed but still slammed in reverse. Then they replaced a solenoid and was as good as ne (after $800).

    Needless to say I wasn't impressed with their diagnosis skills, especially with what's a common problem.
  • I've been in posession of a 94 SL2 for about six years now. We paid $2500 for it then and I have been nothing but happy ever since. As long as you take good care of it, it'll last you till past the 200,000 mile mark. Mine has.
  • gmb2428gmb2428 Posts: 1
    Well the dealer and a trans shop say I need a new valve body. The dealer wants 1100. The trans shop says about half that.

    My question is how hard is it to swap this part out. I see u just pull the battery and tray, then take out a lot of bolts to the pan on top, so once u get in there is this something u just unbolt and replace and ur done...or is there a lot more to it???
  • kronykrony Posts: 110
    Can't say but doing searches on the net for my tranny problems you may find repair info. Not sure if a Haynes manual would have it in there...
  • lmljjllmljjl Posts: 1
    I have a 97 SL2 that has a few problems. The check engine light comes on periodically but doesn't change the way the car is runs. The cars starts great when the engine is cold. After running the engine and gets warm and shut the engine off, I have a hard time re starting the car. It cranks fine but seems to have a problem possibly with fuel getting to the engine. I was hoping that someone else has experienced this problem and could direct me to the problem.
  • bambiebambie Posts: 12
    I have a 97 SC1 with similar problem.When I turn the key to restart a warm engine ,I have to wait 1 or 2 seconds for the fuel guage needle to return from emty to it,s original position.At the same time,I here the fuel pump bringing the fuel pressure back up,then it starts fine.In some other types of cars,the fuel in fuel filter,vapourizes because it,s hot.May need new filter.
  • My 96 Saturn s2 has big-time electrical problems. The door locks are irratic and I have to manually lock and unlock them -- even then they will sometimes unlock themselves and it's a real hassle. Also the audio system says "loc" on the lcd dial and nothing works. I could sure use some advice on this.
  • Need diagnostic assistance. My daughters 2001 SL2 was purchased new and has always been on synthetic oil. It has 109,000 miles on it and is loosing oil. I can find it just inside the tail pipe with a rag but its not smoking or blowing smoke at start-up. I tested the compression per OEM maintenance manuals (I work on everything I own) and it was 105 to 110 at all four cylinders. The manuals stated for oil consumption replace PCV valve, check compression... did both. I recently pulled the head and had it rebuilt, also replaced timing gears, chain, tensioner, guides the works while in the motor. I put it all back together thinking the valve guides were leaking oil and I was done.....wrong. Oil consumption has not slowed down and I still have no smoke indicator from the tail pipe.
    I am lost and in need of advice. HELP!
  • my 1992 Saturn SL1 started loseing electrical power, usally when i stepped on the brake pedal. now the car wouldn't start , its a standard 5 speed so i push started it it ran fine , after bringing it back home it would not start again . i had no electrical power to anything, if i put the key into the ignition then pulled it back out there was a clicking noise coming from under the console, after putting the key in and out a few times the clicking quit and the car started fine. when i hear the clicking noise i have no electrical power to anything , but when it quits clicking i have electrical power to everything and car starts fine. any ideals? is there some kind of a relay switch under the console that would rob my electrical power to everything?
  • The best way to do this is to have someone at bestbuy or something like that do it for you. If you are dead-set on doing it yourself buy a book on your car. I have an SL1 so what it can't be much different. But what there should be a mounting adapter to fit into the slot of the old stereo if the new stereo is too small. But, If it is too big there may be some removals needed.
  • I just bought a Saturn SC2 and I was thinking about put some 17s on it with some 205/40R17 fuzion zri tires. Would this cause any problems with the suspension or the performance i should know about. THANKS!
  • Hey there, I don't know if you've gotten this fixed yet or not but I had the same exact problem...step on the brake while driving and the lights dim and the radio goes off...sometimes it starts and sometimes you need a jump...

    I did some investigating, checking all the fuses and checking for loose grounds...

    It turned out to be the negative terminal on the battery was loose. I didn't notice it until I went to remove the terminal before I dug into the bottome of the fuse box.

    Once I tightened it up everything ran fine after that.

    Good luck
  • The check engine soon light goes on because an error code is being set by the PCM (computer)The PCM sets these codes based on information sent to it by varios sensors.It sounds like this problem is intermittant becase the SES light goes out after awhile. If you are driving by an auto parts store when this happens, I would have them read the error codes off the PCM. Most places will do this for free. If I were to guess as to the cause of the problem, I would suspect the coolant temperature/ and/or CTS wiring harness corroded. Wiring harness is a dealer only part. This sensor tells the PCM if the motor is cold or warm or hot and the PCM adjusts the air-fuel mixture going to the motor. It may be telling the PCM that there is a cold start condition when the motor has ben running for awhile. Like putting the choke on a warm motor. Makes things hard to restart.
  • slade3slade3 Posts: 1
    Does anyone know where I can download a great 1994 Saturn SL2 manual? Bought the Haynes Repair Manual and it really is not that good. Too much words less pictures. Please help! Appreciate it...
  • I'm getting really tired of being bonged and beeped at by my 2001 SC2, every time I put my key in the ignition, don't buckle my seat belt immediately, try to listen to my stereo while parked, etc. The extremely annoying bong bong generator sounds like it's located somewhere behind or near the instrument cluster, but I don't see it when I look up under the dash.

    Hopefully it's a module that can be unplugged....before I tear the dash apart, i wonder if anyone knows exactly where this moronic module is located and whether it's easily disabled/unplugged...or (horrors!) is part of the instrument cluster itself.
  • A reporter from a large daily newspaper is looking to speak to current or previous Saturn owners that went to the homecoming events in Springhill, TN sometime around 1994 and 2000. Please provide your daytime contact info to ctalati@edmunds.com no later than Friday, October 20, 2006.

    Karen-Edmunds Community Manager

  • hoodlatchhoodlatch Mid-westPosts: 255
    My daughter has a 97 SC1 she bought new. For the most part its been a tough one that has held up pretty good through out the years. She brought it to me the other day complaining about the parking lights, turn signals, brake lights, and dash lights all acting weird. At night, the dash lights wouldn't come on unless you put your foot on the brake. When you put your foot on the brake not only would the dash lights come on but all the turn signal lights would come on. To make a long story short, her paramedic partner helped her replace one of the tail lights but used a wrong bulb. This set up a short in the system which caused a feed back. After an hour of trouble shooting along with a new fuze and correct bulb it was back to normal. :shades:
  • I have a 1999 SL2 that is having *sort* of the same issue. When I am going over ~20mph and step on the brakes I get a clicking sound and my lights flicker. The sound seems to come from somewhere in the dash (not from the brakes).

    I have checked the ABS / brake fuses and all are fine. Any suggestions on where else I should look? Is it possible for the ABS relay to be bad if none of the fuse have burned out?

    Thank you!
  • Can anyone tell me if they have ever experienced engine "clatter" whilst driving an SL2 DOHC?
    The car was bought primarily out of necessity and as a means of transportation to and from my place of work. Last Monday, whilst performing an overtaking maneuver I was shocked to notice a loud clattering noise coming from under the hood, at first thought I considered the possibilities, lifters, valve springs, the valves themselves, the timing chain tensioner perhaps even a valve had broken but that would have lead to an engine failure. I have tried to see where the problem exists and have been driving the car for almost a week in this condition. The rattling noise occurs mostly whilst driving and the car is in gear at low revs and around a reasonable engine RPM "gearshift speed" and most rarely in 5th gear, neutral, idle and reverse there appears to be little or no unusual sound. I have heard rumour from sources at Saturn that the tensioners can clog and cause an array of issues. I have looked inside the Cylinder head cover (valve cover) and nothing appears to be untoward so far as damaged moving or static parts goes.
    My car has under 78k and is surprisingly nimble and efficient, I am so used to driving German automobiles and swore I'd never buy an American Domestic brand. Originally from London, England now I'm beginning to reconsider my driving options. Can anybody throw some light in my direction.

    Sincerely. Alex. PA.
  • I have a '95 saturn SL2. Within the last month or so, everytime I make a tight turn either left or right, I hearing a grinding sound coming from my right wheel. It only happens with tight turns, otherwise I hear nothing. I am concerned if this could be a safety issue, like is my wheel going to just come off one day? And what is the grinding? thanks for any enlightenment. :surprise:
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