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Buick LeSabre

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  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,097
    I've got a 98 and have a set of manuals. I'll check in them tomorrow. It's late for me tonight.

    Maybe someone else has this on the tip of their fingers and can give you a quicker answer.
  • Thanks in advance for the help. ;^)

    I have the owners manual for the '97, however it assumes that the "Panic" button works with the car, and shows you how to reprogram the door locks & trunk release. In my wanderings around this site and others, I noticed an occasional posting indicating that you needed to "short" a wire, is this the case for LeSabre's?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,097
    If you have the 97 LeSabre service manuals from Helm it's on 8-821. Do the remotes work to lock and unlock the doors?

    If no have you synchronized the remotes?

    If so, The number 8 and number 4 terminals get jumpered with a link with a 20 amp fuse in it. The DLC block should have the numbers embossed at the ends of the rows.

    Turn ignition off. Jumper. close alldoors. turn ignition on. the doors will lock. press and hold lock and unlock button on transmitter for 30 seconds and the doors will lock and unlock. Do not turn off ignition. repeated pressing the lock and unlock button for other transmitters and hold for 30 seconds for the lock unlock cycle to occur.

    I assume turn off ignition. remove jumper. and go happily on your way.
  • Imidazol,

    I only have the original owners manual that came with the vehicle.
    When I purchased the car last week, the dealer only had 1 set of keys and one FOB for it but promised to cut me another "chipped" ignition key and to give me another FOB. Dealer did give me another ignition key/trunk key that works fine, however the salesguy couldn't get the new FOB to reprogram. He gave me the FOB (unprogrammed)...

    So, net result, I have two sets of keys that work fine, one FOB that works, and one FOB that doesn't work yet.

    I'm a bit of a newbie with Buicks and programming FOB's in particular - Any additional help is appreciated, and is there is a link to the "Helms" manual, or
    do I need to purchase it somewhere?

    Again,
    TIA.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,097
    This is the service manuals, 3 volumes, about 5 inches thick total from helminc.com. I buy them each time I buy a new car. Probably $90 purchased from Helm.

    I quoted the technique. The socket under the dash on driver's side the ADL. Check to see if the numbers 1, 9, 10, 18 are embossed, so you're sure that you have #4 and #8 correctly chosen. Otherwise the two "ears" are the top row with 1-9 and the left is #1. I believe mine were numbered. I think the ADL can be pulled down from the sound deadener panel.

    Even though one fob has been programmed, they both have to be programmed in the same cycle as I outlined earlier.
  • jimindy1jimindy1 Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Lesabre Limited. It's a great car, but have been having strange problem lately. Door Locks stop working. They cannot be operated from remote or door switch. Also, as I am driving, the 'Trunk Lid' indicator displays trunk not locked and/or windshield wipers begin to operate when no rain is present. I understand there may be a 'reprogramming' issue. Please help. Thanks, jimmy
  • buickguybuickguy Posts: 3
    i am also having the same trouble with the dash, ill keep trying to figure it out but if you find anything out please tell me cause i cant listen to the radio any longer , thanks
  • buickguybuickguy Posts: 3
    if anyone knows how to remove the dash that stretches all the way across, please reply thanks
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,097
    Y'all finally did it. You made me go get my books out about how to remove the dash. I'd done it but couldn't remember just how it went on my 93. I hope the 95 is like the 98 for which I have the service books.

    The Lowest trim plates come off first. These are the bottom edge of the dash and they are split in two pieces by the steering column. They pry out - carefully. Then you remove the air deflectors (pry out carefully). These are the moveable air deflectors. There are four. There are screws inside where the four deflectors have been removed. Be careful not to drop the screws down the openings (duh)... Disengage the retaining clips at the top of the trim place This trim plate it the part that surrounds the heater control and the radio and speedometer and glove box or passenger airbag.

    Having to go look at this ties my stomach in knots remembering having taken this apart on my 93 and I can't remember what I was after when I took it off.
  • buickguybuickguy Posts: 3
    hey thanks alot i took it off no problem, i wouldent of thought the screws were behind the vents, thanks so much now me and my dad can finish
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,097
    Good. I always hate digging into the dashes. My next project is taking out the glovebox on 98 and getting into heater control programmer location to see if I can get it out and fix it... Makes goosebumps...
  • davcodavco Posts: 9
    untwisted the ABS electrical connector,re-connected, and now the dashboard ABS light will not go off... the owners manual says to shut off the engine & restart, that didn't work either... HELP!!!
  • Hi,
    I have a 96 Lesabre which I am having problems with the battery dying on me. I have had the starter replaced and the battery has been replaced 3 times now. My mechanic found a short with some wiring under the dash and by passed my dome lights, power windows and locks so they only come on while the ignition is on.
    My car will start no problem with a boost. But the battery keeps going completely dead it does not matter whether or not I drive short distances or long distances. I do not know where to go from here my mechanic cannot find anything wrong I suggested that there is a problem with the starter but he does not seem to think so any suggestions? I am desperate here I even went and purchased a boost pack so that I would not need to call for a tow truck each time I cannot get my car started! Thanks in advance.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,097
    Check the obvious, trunk light, glove box light, under hood light. After car is sitting check at night to see if light is on or open and touch bulb quickly to see if it's hot from having been on.

    Try removing fuses and checking circuits for drain. Your mechanic should have done that...

    Had a neighbor with 3800 in 98? Gran Prix. Kept draining battery in few hours after coming home from work. Random. New battery still had high drain to where it wouldn't start after 5-6 hours. Finally took neighbor's advice and had neighbor replace starter. AFter more than a year or so of problems, fixed. Neighbor is a barnyard mechanic type. His dad runs a lower price-bad credit used car lot. Knows a lot of what goes wrong.
  • Thanks for the advice! The mechanic did check all the fuses said they were good and he did route everything so the ignition needs to be on for anything to work! However!! The trunk light and the glove box light both come on without the car being on so I removed both lightbulbs, boosted my car, turned it on let it run for awhile then shut it off left if for a few mins and it started right away! So hopefully in the morning it will start with no problem!
    My neighbour has a Buick Regal and saw me climbing in my trunk I explained the sitution to him and he told me he had the same problems his friend told him he needed to put the plastic caps on the terminals of his battery and he has had no problems since do you know anything about that??
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,097
    If your mechanic just checked fuses and said they were "good" as a way to find if there's a continual drain on the battery, you need a new mechanic.

    The proper way to check this is connect a meter between the battery and the cable that measures the amperage. Anything above a minimum that the computer is drawing indicates a drain somewhere. Then you start disconnecting fuses (there are fuses under the dash but there also is a main relay panel under the hood with high amp fuses for some circuits. When you disconnect a fuse and the drain is gone from the meter, then you've found the circuit which you have to troubleshoot.

    Doing it without that metering capability is what we can try ourselves at home. Assuming your alternator is charging properly and the battery is good (no posts cracked internally), then you're looking for another problem.

    I'm curious how he routed everything so that it has to go through the ignition switch. I don't see how that could be done.

    What you need to do is narrow down how long the drain is taking to discharge the battery. A single bulb takes a long time and after a few hours the car will start but won't sound as strong when the battery is turning the engine. A starter relay draining the engine only takes a couple of hours to drain the battery dead.
  • jb7227jb7227 Posts: 86
    Looking for a car to drive cross-country (Boston - Vancouver) - decided on the LeSabre. Could not believe that you can get a new 2005 LeSabre (Custom Value Leader model) for around $ 21,000 with the GM employee discount promotion. Even the Limited model I saw (with a sticker of around 33K) can be had for around $ 26.5k. Now that is a lot of car for the $$. Cant even imaging driving the great American interstates in anything else! Just cant decide on color - was thinking of Glacier blue or Sagemist. Anyone out there have the color and like/dislike it?? Or I can just fall back on good ol Ming Blue (navy). I would imagine the Custom model would be the better value for resale purposes, but the Limited model I drove was terrific.
  • Well I had a guy at work today suggest the same thing to me regarding the fuses so I stopped and picked up a meter.
    When I got home I tested the battery with the car running then turned it off well once I turned it off the voltage dropped immediately. I started off somewhere around 13.4 and dropped to 11.3 or somewhere around there.
  • cg22cg22 Posts: 1
    I am having a similar problem with my 95 Lesabre.....

    Battery light started coming on, intermittently, about 3 weeks ago. Then it would come on steady and the car would die. Checked battery and it was dead. Replaced battery (with a fresh 12 hour charge) and alternator (3 times) and finally bought a LED guage at Radio Shack and mounted inside car to monitor the charing system. When charging system is working good the LED guage reads 14.5 v and when it drops below this, say 13.5, this tells me that the charging system is not outputting at all or not enough to keep a full charge on the battery.

    For some unknown reason, the voltage drops to 11.5, telling me there's something wrong. The car will run fine for anywhere from one-five days with no problem and mysteriously the LED guage goes up and down and after about 15 minutes the all goes to normal.

    I did find that the neg. batt. terminal had a stripped bold and and replaced it to ensure a solid connection.

    I had turned on/off all accessories and disconected all circuits, one by one to trying to make it fail. I also moved and yanked on every wire under the hood, searching for an intermittent connection.

    I did smell buring rubber inside the car about 2 weeks ago and then it went away. Seemed to be coming from the dash or firewall (passerger side).

    It sound to me that we are both experiencing the same problem. Perhaps the 2 of us can compare notes and resolve this one.

    I really like this car and do not want to part with it.

    cg........
  • dispencer1dispencer1 Posts: 489
    Buy the Limited. A Limited has more standard equipment on it than does a base Park Avenue and make sure it has the Gran Touring Suspension. This makes all the difference in the world. The car still rides smoothly but handles much better than the car without GTS.
  • davcodavco Posts: 9
    Seems the problem with these dash buttons only working when they want to is not a vacume problem, but is centered on the unit in the dash itself...
    or directly behind it...

    ...I had disconnected a large round twist off connector that sits directly above the main abs brake unit, had forgot to take off the neg. battery cable, (don't ask) and the dash ABS light stays on and I don't think the ABS is activating... Any suggestions?
  • davcodavco Posts: 9
    Buick has two types of dashboard heater controls. Mine is the "manual" type. Would the "automatic" type work in my car ? Ebay has one for $20...
  • tigercat21tigercat21 Posts: 28
    Check for a blown fuse in main fuse box...abs has its own fuse.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,097
    Hope you've fixed your problem by now.

    But if you haven't, the voltage of a battery should be 12.6 volts. That's 6.1 volts for each of the six cells in a Pb acid battery. You may have a problem battery or a badly calibrated meter.
  • I finally did get my problem fixed! I am soooo happy but frustrated at the same time.
    It appears that I was fortunate enough not to have only purchased 1 bad brand new battery but 2 bad brand new batteries. I kept testing my battery with my volt meter and everytime the car was turned off the battery died instantly!
    This was the second battery that I had put in since around March of this year this battery was to replace the original I bought in March. So I took my car to a place that specializes in just batteries and he told me I had a couple of dead cells and marked them off so I could return my battery once again. I then bought a battery from him and he replaced the bolts because the place where I had the other battery put in well it appears that they badly stripped them! Its been since about June 23 and I have not had any problems at all I am still monitoring the voltage on my battery and it is staying charged! Hopefully you will figure out what your problem is. Every place I have been to has commented on the shape of my car and my mechanic said they have excellent engines and will go on forever I like you did not want to part with my car.
    My problem was the same I would boost it and it would run for a day or so then it was getting to the point where every time I turned off my car I would need to boost it!! I

    Good luck with your car! Hopefully you will get it going before spending alot of money on things that you do not need to fix like I did.
  • My dad owns a 1998 Buick Lesabre with 58,000 miles on it. Last nite as they were leaving my home, they got into the car and it wouldn't start. Tried jump starting. No luck. The key turns, all the lights, bells and whistles indicate all is normal.. however, when the ignition is completely engaged, not a sound. He removed the starter and took it to the dealer and it checked out fine. Any suggestions???
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,097
    I assume the Security light didn't stay on after the key is turned to "on." IF it did that means the resistor chip isn't being read in the key. You get all the lights but when you turn the key, nothing happens inthe way of cranking.

    It's happened to me a couple of times with a dirty resistor contact. Scrape it, pencil eraser is good for cleaning. But you have towait 3 or 4 minutes until the computer for the key resets; once you turn the key 3 times with a bad read from the resistor it turns off the ability to start the car for 3 minutes.

    There is a possibility it's the ignition switch not connecting to the start mode wire. That's on top of the steering column just above the brake pedal. Then there's the small computer that reads the key chip; I think it's buried inside the instrument panel behind the speedometer so that it's not easily bypassed. I'd start with the easiest first. Connections at starter, bad starter, etc.
  • Tried the eraser on the key. No luck. The security light continually flashes with the key on. I think he's going to have it towed to a dealer tomorrow. We also tried the extra key by the way, and it didn't work either. Thanks for your input. I'll let u know the outcome.
  • doedoedoedoe Posts: 1
    1992 LeSabre has loud knocking sound when idling. When I excelerate and drive over 25 mph the sound goes away. Does anyone have any ideas as to what this could be? Thanks for you input.
  • x90071x90071 Posts: 8
    The panel that covers the windows and mirror knobs is shedding its black paint
    where can i get a new panel?
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