Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Buick LeSabre

1353638404146

Comments

  • ilnoleilnole Posts: 1
    well group hers is my problem i have a 1997 buick lesabre i added a cd player and a single subwoofer and my abs light has been coming on often the abs light comes on the cd player goes off then starts right back up, then tonight on my way home the abs light cut on and i continued driving like normal then the spedometer went nuts then the battery voltage light came on, i drove a lil bit more and all the lights went out and the car was fine anybody know what the hell is going on?
  • davcodavco Posts: 9
    I wish I knew... These LeSabre's seem to have poor wiring designs. And minds of their own...
  • I got locked out of my car so a friend used a slim jim to try to open the doors. It never worked. Now the key will not unlock the front doors, the lock buttons on the inside will not unlock them either. I cannot lock the car and I have to either crawl through the window or get in from the back seat! Does anyone know what could have happened? Someone suggested that the anti theft system may have something to do with it and that I need to have the car's computer reset.
    Please help.
  • dave65dave65 Posts: 2
    i think my abs light in my 94 lesabre is burnt out cause it doesn't come on when i turn the key. do i just pull out the speedo to get at it to replace?
  • dave65dave65 Posts: 2
    i think the abs light on my 94 lesabre is burnt out cause it doesn't come on when i turn the key. what is the fastest way to change the bulb? just pull out speedo?
  • mlm4mlm4 Posts: 401
    Using the slim jim may have bent or jammed the rod that connects the lock to the manual switch on the door panel. Best bet is to pull off the interior door panel and take a look.
  • How do I get the door panel off with the door shut? I can only find two screws - one of them takes off the panel where the handle is and the other only removes the panel over the arm rest - there is nothing behind it.
  • For the past few months, I've noticed an increasingly strong smell of coolant coming from the hood of my '97 LeSabre, and in cold, damp weather an occasional bit of steam coming out of the grille. My reservoir was recently empy; I refilled it a few weeks ago and it's almost all the way down again. There don't appear to be any leaks, nor do I believe that I'm burning any coolant during combustion (as the smell and occasional steam are coming from under the hood. The heater core does not appear to be the issue, as the smell hasn't reached the cabin except on rare occasions. Has anyone experienced similar problems on their Buicks? Are there any frequent failures in the cooling system that I should be aware of? Thanks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,367
    You don't mention the mileage on the car. It could be coming from a leaking hose, leaking radiator, water pump, or the seals around the air intake plastic upper manifold, or around the lower metal manifold seals. You need to open the hood when the car has built up heat and pressure and is showing moisture coming up and do a quick check to see if you can find any color trails or liquid coolant somewhere.

    Do you see any drips on the ground when you park the car after it's hot? That might show you it's under the radiator or the water pump area.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,367
    If you believe the problem is electrical, it may be the ground connection at the left side kick panel beside the parking brake. I never found it, but it gets moisture and age and can cause strange problems with things like air and power door locks etc.
    My 1993 had that. I never followed up to clean and tighten the grounds because I traded the car before it started doing it enough. It would go to air conditioning defrost default and the power door locks wouldn't work for a few minutes.

    There also is a ground under the carpet between the door sill and the driver's seat. It would be about where your fingers hang straight down while you're sitting in the seat. You can feel the plastic cover above the connects that may also be related to some dash operations.
  • gene123gene123 Posts: 7
    Does traction control on front wheel drive vehicles give as much help on snow or wet surfaces as limited slip differentials on rear wheel drive cars?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,367
    Yes. It's better. The slipping wheel is slowed by the brake. Your other wheel is pulling and it controls the direction. With limited slip rear differential the rears both were locked and the slippage tended to make the rear go whichever way it wanted to go sometimes at the detriment of direction you wanted to go. I quickly learned long ago never to let up or accelerate during a curve on a snowy or icy road. The rear wheel both slip some and bam you're gone sideways in the rear.
  • gene123gene123 Posts: 7
    Hey, thanks a lot. I was torn between the Buick Le Sabre, which has front wheel drive, as do most cars now, and the Cadillac STS with RWD with the limited-slip diferential option. I have always driven rear wheel drive cars, and didn't like the idea of FWD. But, with traction control, I guess FWD will be OK. My main objection to FWD was the anticipated need to replace the CV joint covers frequently to prevent undue wear and tear if water and debris got to the joint, at quite an expense. Or, I can hope my 1976 Le Sabre lasts until Buick makes a RWD. Bummer.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,367
    I have had Buicks since 1981 model with CV joints and have never had a cover split or leak out the oil. I've never had a CV failure. 1989 Century had 150K, 93 LeSabre had 150K, 98 LeSabre has 130 K. I'm in Ohio; hot in summer, cold in winter. Never split.

    You probably won't either unless you go off-roading or have lots of road debris where you drive.
  • gene123gene123 Posts: 7
    Thanks for the info on the CV joint covers. That eliminates the big concern I had after seeing the prices to replace the covers posted at car repair shops. I guess I was getting gray hairs for nothing. I really want to get a new Le Sabre, because I like the roominess and the gear shift on the steering column. Guess I can go shopping now. I really appreciate your feedback.
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    Have a 2000 Buick Lasabre with passinger side rear window off track. Need step by step info. guiding me through removing the panel to get to the problem. Dealer want's $250.00 to make repair. The motor runs, sounds good. Thanks , Bozie
  • mlm4mlm4 Posts: 401
    This is a common problem. I had to replace the window regulator on my Bonneville, same as LeSabre. I don't think your window is "off track". The motor drives a cable that is attached to the regulator with a plastic clip which is prone to breaking. Even though it is just a simple clip it is not serviceable, the entire regulator must be replaced and unfortunately that assembly also includes the motor.
    I bought a new regulator and replaced it myself. The door panel is attached with a series of fasteners around the edge and a couple in the middle. Start by prying the panel out from the bottom and work around the edges. When the clips are free lift the panel up to free the top edge from the door. On the right rear door there should only be one electrical connector (for the power window switch) to disconnect. Under the panel is a moisture barrier glued to the door which needs to be carefully peeled away (don't tear it). There are a couple of clamps that attach the glass to the regulator. Close the window and tape it to the frame so when the clamps are loosened the window stays in place. Unclamp the glass and remove the regulator mounting bolts. The regulator is hard to get out through the opening but it I found the new regulator has the motor attached at a different angle which makes it easier to get in than the old one was to get out. See my message on the Bonneville problems board #1242 mlm4, "Pontiac Bonneville Owners: Problems & Solutions" #1242, 24 Dec 2003 6:39 pm
  • boziebozie Posts: 30
    RE:mlm4 Bozie thanks for advice rear window La Sabre. I put in 3 full days of labor with help from a friend and my wife searching for replacement at salvage yards and no luck there because of too new of model. As you said the cable had pulled through the plastic fastener on the end that doesn't require a spring. The cable had some damage on the take up reel because of being run some while off groove. Not finding a replacement at salvage yard's I proceeded to price GM dealer's (Look Out) $305:00 to $340:00 not including tax and various they do it prices in between, Glass replacement shop's etc. Well anyway as my profile say's I think, I like a challenge and boy did I have one here. The idea was to save the cost of a new one at approxmently $350.00 or more. So here's what I done. Where the cable had broken through the plastic, I placed a small piece of metal in the slot where the cable usually rested and then proceeded to stretch the cable with my wife's help, back in on top of metal.(Half a day's work) That completed the repair. But by golly it worked. The rest of the story is my mistakes. Like placing it back in the door cavity with the motor on wrong side. Not plugging motor up to electric, and making sure the glass was in the channel guide. So I figure I put in $800.00 worth of labor in 3-day's to save $350.00 or more. Thank's again, MLM4, I appreciate your help, Bozie
  • My LeSabre has been making a grinding noise that we've effectively traced to the A/C compressor pulley by removing the serpentine belt. It was obvious even before, as metal shavings were readily visible on the pulley. As I have a friend who knows his bearings and has access to any bearing I may need, my question is as follows:

    Does anyone know if the pulley - and possibly the clutch if necessary - can be removed from the A/C compressor pulley, so that I would not have to replace the whole $250 compressor?

    Auto parts stores have already told me that they only carry the complete compressor; however, the pulley itself appears to be in good condition - it's just this bearing that is going bad. If anyone has ANY ideas for saving me a lot of money, or can refer me to the proper forum for posting this problem, I'd would very much appreciate it.
  • :confuse: Just joined the forum, actually on behalf of my parents who just bought a 2005 LeSabre with very low miles. I'm looking for any hints/warnings about known problems & complaints. I've read much of the posts on previous years' issues. Have they been fixed for 2005?

    Thanks!
    -Ron
  • kay9kay9 Posts: 2
    Hello,

    Some cowardly kids smashed my rear side and back windows. It's going to cost me at least $250 to fix them so I'm trying to do stuff by myself. I started with the rear side window yesterday in bone-chill weather; managed to completely remove the door panel from the steel frame. However inserting the glass from the top is becoming a nightmare; what else do I need to remove? I'm thinking I might have to remove the pillar btn the side frames. Any assistance will be appreciated. Thanks
  • kay9kay9 Posts: 2
    To replace the back side glass, the B pillar and quarter glass have to be removed.
  • I noticed the 04 lesabre on the short list of autos to avoid buying used in the new CR buying guide. Any ideas why? The reliability chart looked routine.
  • Headlamps and parking lights won't turn off, either by timing device after exiting car or with manual switches on dash. Mechanic says its the twilight sentinel, but why don't the manual switches work?

    We take out fuses to keep the battery from discharging, but this is going to get old.....

    Any ideas?
  • daryll44daryll44 Posts: 306
    Just curious...is the 2005 LeSabre (the end) built on the same platform/chassis as the "original FWD" LeSabre in mode year 1986? I realize they've at least made updates over the years, but I am wondering if it's still essentially the same car underneath.
  • I have now had everyone of my windows to quit working correctly. I got the motor/regulator replaced on the front passenger side for a cost of $350. I had the rear windows to get out of track, so we rigged them where they will not go down. Now my driver's window is giving me trouble. What is wrong? Have others had the same problem? It seems that a recall should be in order. I hardly had ever put down my back windows, and do not have kids etc. to abuse them.:mad:
  • We have a 2000 and I had to replace the drivers side cost about $75 at advance auto. It was harder to take the door panel off then to change the motor.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,367
    You are saying that your motor went out and you were able to replace it? I thought the regulator and motor were one piece.
  • Yes it's all one piece $54.99 at advance auto.
Sign In or Register to comment.