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Buick LeSabre

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  • romeroomromeroom Posts: 1
    I need to replace an ECM (Electronic Control Module) on my '94 LeSabre. Where is this part located?

    Thanks.
  • Yeah, I own a 1988 buick lesabre. can anyone tell me how to remove the front bumper? Please help.
  • hydrohydro Posts: 1
    I picked up a '93 Buick Lesabre for a very low price considering it has 130k kilometres on it. Yes im metric. But for about the past week I have noticed a gas odour, and to my further imspection found a gas leak under the rear passenger side. When the engine is one it drips alot more then when the engine is off. I took it to a garage and they told me I need a new "Fuel level sending unit" and probably a new "Gas Tank" since it would be corroded. It was then estimated at $731 (CAN) for the job. I know its not that much considering, but does this sound right? I know I can get a gas tank for $200, and the Sending unit for $75..so is the rest all labour, is it really that big of a job?
  • hevonenhevonen Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 LeSabre Limited with 64,000 miles and never any serious or lingering problems.

    For the last two months, after heavy rains, water has collected on the floor of the right side passenger compartment, mostly in the rear, occasionally extending to the front seat. The carpet is saturated. No other area even hints of moisture -- not the seat, the ceiling, the door or any other upholstered item, just the floor. The doors and windows were closed during the deluges.

    The fluid gives off no odor -- doesn't smell like gasoline or coolant.

    The dealer had no clue as to what the problem could be. I know the battery sits under the rear seat so could there be some kind of line running beneath the floor board that could be leaking water?

    Much appreciate any answers or even just educated guesses.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    Was the car driven during the rains or did the water come in around seals or something without being driven in the rain.

    Ideals. Does it have a sunroof. Occasionally a drain tube clogs or kinks and water goes wrong place.

    Do you see any water dripping around the botton edge of the front or rear door immediately after the rain. There is a plastic water seal layer inside the door that is sealed with butyl caulk and sometimes that doesn't seal right and the water gets to the interior of the car.

    Do you have any looseness in the rubber seal around the door. To check use a dollar bill and open the window and run it along the rubber seal. You will feel the areas where the seal isn't making good contact.

    If occurs during driving check lower parts of same rubber seals for ways tire spray from front can get in around front of rear door or back of front door.
  • kessarykessary Posts: 2
    yes, had the same problem with 98 Buick 3800 series II, Be careful, part of the leak is also EGR (basically hot exhaust)leaking into the crankcase which will turn your engine oil into a very thick grease like substance, I burned up my engine the day after replacing the intake. It will clog your pickup tube in the oil pan where it picks up the oil. Am now in the process of rebuilding engine at 111,000 miles. So don't take a chance the oil pan is very easy to get off, just drop it and pull the pickup tube off and clean it very well. Good Luck.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    The EGR tube only would leak into the air stream to be burned in the motor. It might affect driveability with additional oxygen-free air going in. But the oil wouldn't be affected.

    The oil sludging sounds like lack of oil changes, poor filters, both, or poor oil quality used.
  • suydamsuydam Posts: 981
    That sounds about right for my son's '98-- 22-30 or so. It gets surprisingly good mileage for such a large car.
  • I am pleased with my LeSabre.

    Has anyone else had a problem with the wheels rusting?

    My car is a 2004 celebration edition, has 16" chrome wheels. Was made in late May 2004. Now just 2 years old the front wheels are covered in rust. I'd thought that brake dust was covering them, but on closer inspection, no, it's rust.

    I'm wondering if this is covered by warrenty.

    ??
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    I'd get to the dealer immediately to let them determine what's happening. I've noticed the brake dust if not kept off will form crud that resembles rust. But it's possible there is an early rusting problem.

    I have had trouble finding a good cleaner for my wheels. Chrome Celebration 03. I just use a chrome polish and try to let it rub off the brake dust bits that stick.
  • Hi, everybody.
    I have a 2002 LeSabre custom with 44k miles. I bought it used last fall. After it worked very well for several months, the air bag light came in July. Initially, I took it to local dealer, the dealer told me that it's just a sensor over-reaction problem and fixed it by cleaning something and clearing the record. However, after a month, the air bag light came on again. I took the car to same dealer. Now they said I need to change the air bag control module (cost $550). I am wondering if anybody here had the same problem? Do you think the control module causes the problem? And how much did you spend for this kind of problem?
    I also found that during day when temperature is high, the air bag light will come on. However, if the temperature drops (during night), the light may not come on. This finding may be pure coincidence. Thanks a lot for any suggestion.
  • sizzmansizzman Posts: 2
    I am working on 1995 Buick LeSabre. It will run ok for awhile, but then it stalls and is hard to start. Recent work on it was a normal tune up, Spark plugs, wires, gas filter, and air filter. I even dropped the gas tank and cleaned it out. Also, when I rev the engine, I can not get it to go over 4000 rpms. It seems like it gets too much gass or air and starts to choke out until it gets back down to 3500 rpms. I have also cleaned out the port injectors. The check engine light comes on, but Autozone states that there computer reader only does 1996 and newer vehicles. Any ideas on the problem?? Any help is appreciated!!
  • I would check the fuel pressure regulator
  • Hi!

    I have been looking for a place to get some help for a 'do it yourselfer' who doesnt want to pour a lot of cash into a 13 year old car. We had a really rainy day last week and one road that I go through to get home from work had a substantial amount of water over it, after going through it (i was probably going 20 or so) I went about 200 feet and the sucker stalled out. After that it would not start, i sat there for 10 minutes or so and then it would start and run fora bout 3 seconds and then stall out. It did that several times. Since the last time it did that it has not started since and will only crank.

    A buddy of mine and I looked at it today, we found that the plugs are not sparking. Took one out and cranked it and nothing. The wires and all are fine. Suspected the coil packs, took them off and took them to auto zone and they tested out fine. The guy at autozone said we might want to check the camshaft sensor which is one the side of the engine down by one of the pulley wheels, said if that gets water in it it will not work and will not spark.

    To "test" that would be 36 bucks for a new one and have never replaced that before so am not even sure I can do it myself so I would like to have some semblance of it being a good idea before I do that. Obviously it wont start so if i need to take it someplace I will have to have it towed. (I was 3 miles away from home so a friend pulled it back to my house with his truck)

    Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks! :sick:
  • jjz1jjz1 Posts: 3
    Hi. I have a 200 custom with 121000 miles on it. My check engine light came on, and the trouble code is reading an EVAP emmission control leak. I still need to look the car over, but has anyone experienced this problem before, and maybe know of a particular section of the system that is known for leaking? The car runs great, I recently replaced the plugs and wires. Perhaps I knocked something loose while doing so...any ideas woould be greatly appreciated.
  • A few months ago I posted a concern that the chrome wheels had rusted on my 2004 celebration edition lesabre limited.

    Buick has replaced them, free of charge, so I am very happy. Now I can put those final 150 miles on the car and pass 36000. And wax my wheels.

    Have I said the engineering of the Lesabre (and Century) powertrain is exceptional? It is. I greatly appreciate the low RPM torque and overdrive highway fuel economy. I just wish Buick made a 2500lb car with this same philosophy. Such a car could surely get 45 or 50 mpg on the highway!
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    First place is gas cap. Check the seal it makes with the top of the tank tube. I put vaseline on it to help seal.

    Then the car will do a check for tank seal when it's restarted lukewarm. I.e., drive 3-4 miles. Stop motor for while. Restart car. It may do a check on the evap system. Light may go off if the problem is gas cap seal.
  • dagardagar Posts: 1
    Can you give me an idea what i'm looking for on "Passenger Climate Control" on my 1995 Buick Lesabre Limited. Control panel lights up, but seems stuck on cold. It's winter time and my side blows heat and passenger side blows cold.
    Can you help me out.....Respectfuly....Gary
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    Without crawling under my dash (again) I believe you may have a problem with the link to the door that adjusts the relative air flow to the passenger side.

    Take off the hush panel underneath the passenger side dash. Four or five little screws and clips. Look for a box about the size of a paperback novel sitting at an angle to the right side of the heater box. At the bottom is a link, white plastic or nylon IIRC. It's supposed to move left and right to adjust the requested air flow temp tot he passenger.

    If it's not snapped to the slip at the left end which goes into the heater box through a hole with foam around it, it will be a snapin fit from the back, I believe. You may be able to move the link in and out that's going into the box to see that it changes the passenger temp.

    If the link is unsnapped, that's the easiest problem. If the link is not moving from the programmer box end, that may mean the electric motor inside the programmer box is stuck or dead. I bought a replacement programmer at a recycling yard for $100--high I thought, but they are good and knowledgable and worth it. It got to show the puller what I wanted by showing him my car disassembled and where I wanted things cut.

    There also is a little electric motor on top of the heater box right next to the programmer and connected to it by two little wires, but I think that's the one for overall temperature control. It gives problems by having a gear crack. It can be replaced. It's harder to get to.

    If you diddle with the two links you may loosen up a stuck vane inside the heater if that's the problem. If the link is snapped off the clip, I _believe_ you have the car requesting full heat to snap the link on in the right position. The programmer will index the thing when it's restarted. If it's wrong it may give flashing digits to indicate something's not where it expects it.

    Both of these are easier if you remove the five screws under the glovebox and remove it.
  • bnexbnex Posts: 1
    Folks,

    I am looking for the following parts for a V8 1970 Buick LeSabre:

    - For the front suspension, I need the complete assembly and 2 upper control arms.

    - 2 strut bars

    - Rear brake shoes

    - Core support

    I prefer new parts but am having a very tough time finding these parts and will accept used if in decent shape.

    If you don't have these parts could you suggest a supplier who might have parts for this car?

    Thanks very much in advance!

    BNEX
  • Hope I can get some help with this one. My 1999 LeSabre's all of a sudden is giving me a real erratic heater display. It's freezing and I got no heat. Thought it was maybe the thermostat so I changed it. NOPE.
    What happens is I can get heat if I put the windshield defrosted on.,but when I switch it to mid level or lower level it turns cold. No the AC does not go on,just cold air comes in the car.Not heat.The display gets weird and says EXT. and changes the temperatue numbers every few seconds or minutes randomly.
    Is this a control gone bad or some type of heating module?The display looks fine but reads like it is getting wrond info. Where do you think I should start?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    Do you have the automatic dual air conditioner? If so I'd ask first if you have done anything around the wiring and vacuum tubing under the dash?

    If you have the standard system I haven't worked with that one. I have had many wonderful hours of underdash time with my dual ACC and replacing the programmer when bypassing the vacuum tubes that control the doors.

    The reason I suspect a ground is a defection head (control on the dash) shoud find an error and flash the numbers for about 90 seconds and then be stable. It sets a code that's readable with a scanner (Scan II) not the kind like Autozone has for the motor.

    If not I'd suspect a defective dash unit or a grounding problem. Are you in a climate where there is lots of moisture getting into your car when you open the door and get in and out. A common ground problem to corrode is the one by the A pillar as it goes into the door sill. This can cause symptoms such as door locks not working, climate control changing, and other strange things I forget. One person had their car dying and he tried stomping next to the ground area in aggravation and it made contact again and started.

    I had not dug into these on my own Lesabre 93 that developed symptoms-my wife made me trade it first.
    I also understood there was one by the parking brake in the pillar area and one back next to the driver's seat. This picture looks like it's from wiring bundle somewhere in between. There also is a groundblock on the passenger side. But most people with problems find the moisture has corroded the copper in the buss bars on the driver's side.

    My test would be some hammering on the wire bundles where there's lots of electrical tape wrapped around the ground busses to hope to make good contact again until the corrosion grows again. That could let you know it is a ground connection.
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  • leolileoli Posts: 1
    I would like to buy a used car - Buick LeSabre. The details are, 2003, with 85,000miles. It was once used for business purpose.

    I am really a freshman in Buick even in car, could any kind people give me some suggestion for this car?

    by the way, the price is asked 8500 dollar.
  • wigloowigloo Posts: 1
    Hopefully you can help! After starting the car the heater blend door behind the glove box moves fully in both directions (open & closed). When it stops it blows only cool air. If I turn the temperature to its hottest setting the blend door only moves a small amount. The only way to get hot air from any of the vents is to physically push the blend door linkage to the far right. Any ideas??
  • The only thing I'd be concerned is, check the maintenance records to make sure it was taken care of properly. In August of 2005 I bought a 2003 Lesabre that was a lease return and I was given all the maintenance records with it. I've put 20,000 miles on it and have not had any problems. I've been changing the oil and filter, of course.
  • Is there a cure for the power steering puump whine on a '95 LeSabre? I replaced thepump and it si still there.
  • Hey, ya'll have been a big help on previous problems, so maybe you can solve this one for me. My mom has a '99 LeSabre, with approx. 84K on it. I have noticed the E-brake light will sometimes come on even if the brakes are not touched. It seems to come on when I accelerate hard, and just then. The brakes will lock up on ice too. Has anyone else had this problem? I seem to think that it may be the ABS sensor going bad, but it's just a theory. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

    BTW: The car has a waaaayyyy too floaty ride, can we change out the struts and springs to make it better? Would that help any? Thanks a million.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    Without doing an research, I believe the ebrake light is also the fluid level for the master cylinder. It may mean the brake pads have worn enough and more fluid has gone into the wheel cylinders to lower the master cylinder level. In other words, have the front brakes checked. My rears have lasted 150K mi, so I doubt yours have worn. I think mine are about 2/3 still present on the back drums.

    The ABS system should work or give you the warning light that there's something wrong. If you are going slow and try to lock up the wheels on ice they will lock up. The system doesn't seem to work below a certain speed.

    The 84000 miles is about 35K miles late for strut replacement. I put Monroe Road Sensing struts, they had the air leveling on the rear since my Limited 98 has that. I just kept watching at Sears for what was their best sale on 1/2 price struts or full price with no installation charge. I forget which...

    I don't like Sears since they ruined two studs and wouldn't replace the last one at their expense. It wasn't my fault they run the nuts off and on without cleaning the threads using their high speed air guns... to rotate and rebalance the tires taht are lifetime balance...

    The struts will make a world of difference. You might do well with Delco replacements also. I had driven some loaner cars from my dealer that had repacement struts that I believe they put on. The dealer gives loaners for any service you have done and use cars off the used car lot, often ones with highermileage that tend not to sell. They had a 95 Park Ave that had 165K mi on it before they quit using it that had replacement struts that I thought were GM.
  • dee41dee41 Posts: 3
    :cry: I have a 95 Buick Lesabre with over 100,000 miles on it, and i think the transmission is slipping!
    If I step on the gas to hard it will rev up as if it is in neutral. If i let up just a little off the gas, It will then go back into gear. This happens while in (OD) We replaced the modulator, and it seems to be a little better, But will still do it at around 50-60MPH. I have read in other forums that the modulator has to be adjusted, That there is a small screw that you turn clockwise, or counter clockwise. However i'm not able to find it!!! Anyone have any idea's???
    Also Dose that stuff called "Transmatic" For automatic trans really work???
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 18,259
    How many times has the drain, change filter, and refill maintenance been done on this transmission?

    When the modulator was changed (external job?) was the oil drained and filter replaced?

    My first thought would be a filter not letting fluid pass through it because it's partly stopped up.
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